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Tip: interference-fit bushes are best put in the freezer for 30 mins before fitting...they just drop into place so no hammering. Also, best to not hit metal with metal, use a wood-block. Nice job overall.

Probably the best Ryan’s kzfaq.infoUgkxGZedDTcDfgD7fG_uU4esfx_EgxzlY2_1 Plans on building a shed is hardly ever found. And Ryan takes the mystery out of different types of foundation options, etc. He even shows how to build a shed with different designs. Very comprehensive, covering different roofing materials, siding, etc.

The two outer teeth on the buckets are supposed to be crooked,pointing outwards. There central longitudinal axis is aligned with the axis of the sidewalls on the bucket,to protect sidewall from wear when you dig. They wear out instead of the bucket. Once a bit worn, their length having reduced,you swap them with the inner ones,or change them,depending on what you dig,so the wear they suffer from.

The slow operating speed & heat on the lower (retract) side of your boom main cylinder are most likely due to damage to the o-ring between the piston and the rod, or in one or more of the seal rings on the outer diameter of your piston, especially since it looks like you guys used a hammer when installing both these items during reassembly. It is incredibly easy to accidentally cut cylinder seals and o-rings during reassembly & even experienced hydraulic technicians do it more often than you would think. If a seal or o-ring is damaged, much of the pressure bypasses around the piston, so you are losing pressure that is trying to force the cylinder to extend, causing the slower movement. Since pressure and temperature have a direct relationship, the increase in pressure as the hydraulic fluid shoves through the damaged area of the seal causes an increase in temperature in that fluid, so you will notice the retract side of the cylinder is notably hotter than the extend side. If the damage to the seal or o-ring is fairly large, you can lift the boom, release the control lever and the boom will often slowly drift down a small amount before the pressure on each side of the piston equalizes causing the boom to stop moving. You can positively determine if oil bypassing the piston in the boom cylinder is the actual issue without removing the cylinder from the machine and disassembling it using the following troubleshooting procedure: Shut the machine off and function the boom control in both directions to ensure you have bled the pressure off both sides of the piston. Now remove the hose from the raise (extend) port of the main boom cylinder and cap/plug both the hydraulic hose and the fitting on the cylinder (WARNING: Do this with actual hydraulic plugs/caps as you will be applying pressure to the cylinder next). Now start the machine and move the boom control to lower the boom. If the boom cylinder does not move, or moves just a tiny bit and then stops, the piston is NOT bypassing. From the description in the video, what you will most likely see happen instead is that your boom cylinder will actually begin to extend and lift the boom, even though you are applying pressure to the lower (retract) port of the cylinder and there is not even a hose hooked to the raise (extend) port. This happens because the surface area on the extend (raise) side of the piston is larger than the surface area on the back of the piston (since the cylinder rod is installed on that side) and the oil being applied to the retract side of the piston bypasses around the damaged piston ring/seal causing the pressure on both sides to equalize. However, since there is more surface area on the extend (raise) side of the piston for the hydraulic fluid to push against, the piston (and cylinder) are forced to extend. If this is what happens, you will need to remove the boom cylinder and carefully put another seal kit in it.

Just the right amount of voice over & ambient sound. I hate strictly visual posts.

At 16:03 you will see a groove cut round the inner diameter of the eye. That is for grease so that no matter where the holes are in the bushing they all get grease.

If you cylinder is getting hot that is a sign of a damaged seal when you resealed the cylinder very common to happen and the slow speed indicates a leak in that direction . oil bypassing . pull it apart and reseal again this time don't force or beat it together. Hydraulic Tech retired from Paup Munroe Hydraulics& Berendsen fluid power.

Fell off my chair laughing-digger tooth cleaning is an often overlooked detail.

Just love a guy that cleans his job up first instead of working in grease rust and oil this is how you spot everything that's broken and it makes it look new when its all finished good job guys

On the bucket teeth bolts put dome nuts on top of the self locking nuts so the threads do not get damaged so easy to remove next time

On the main boom cylinder, if the u-cup seal (the blue one) is installed backward, it will allow oil to bypass inside the cylinder and cause loss of power and heating of the oil

Don't forget to use toothpaste on those bucket teeth BEFORE and AFTER operating the machine. This is very often overseen and could cause severe tooth problems later on! Check the old teeth..never been regularly brushed and already replaced at this age . Finally someone is addressing this!

Hi Carl, nice to see you read and reply to comments. I'm quite cheerful btw. All respect for your carpentry and roofing skills, but why post stuff for the world to see if you can't take a bit of positive critique? I've spend decades around plant workshops and was chewed out 1st day by the foreman for going in to collect an excavator wearing veldskoen (rawhide shoes). Next day, a worker wearing thongs and helping carry a box of CAT245 teeth had the bottom fall out of the box and lost three toes. Now, put your big boy trousers on and get down to Bricomart and buy yourself and the girl with the pretty painted toe nails a pair of €19.95 safety boots!

You and your father are a jack of all trades and masters of all of them. How wonderful to be so knowledgeable! Great job on the repairs.

Recoveri g from illness, been bingewatching your videos all afternoon. What a treat to find a new one! Thanks Carl

Probably everyone has mentioned it already, but you can place those pins & bushings in a freezer for an hour and they'll drop in much easier. Also, hydraulic presses are awesome for that job. Methinks you'll need to tackle your kingpin sooner than later since its off-spec movements probably caused the cracking.

All those little things that crop up and stop you doing the primary job. 8 years on in Portugal and its still happening to me. Maintenance now takes up more than half of my available time. Good job!

Carl.. isn't it amazing the ways those fellas like your dad, always finds solutions. Even in things that the have never worked with. Its a pleasure to work with them and just watch the way the thing. I my shelf building a house and its a complete experience working with my dad. Great video's.keep it on ..

Good job, guys! All it takes is good mechanical skills and some determination, which you obviously have. You and your dad make a great team!

Good to see you wearing steel toe-capped sandals. I hope the local farmer is a surgeon as well as a welder.

Good job. I love to see Dad and Lad working together. That’s why I’m such a good mechanic now. 👍

Great work using limited tools. However, as someone who came very close to losing a toe in an industrial accident (and no, I wasn't wearing safety footwear) sandals are not safe when working around equipment. One slip and you could lose one or more toes in an instant.

I’m thinking the worn and unbalanced kingpin was probably the cause of your cracks in the first place. Your repair might have been Kind of like building on top of a cracked foundation. Don’t let it go too long before you do king pin. Very neat tip to use the plastic glove fingers to cover the hydraulic hoses..many thanks for that.

Simply the best application of a pair of old canterbury rugby shaorts on youtube.

That grinder cutting was METAL. Looked like a good way to get the aggression out.

You could reinstall the old teeth in between the new teeth and have the most british looking excavator lol.

You can get spiffy little trigger things to put on spray cans to press the nozzle. Saves a lot of wear and tear on the fingertips.

Cool job guys, I bet you had lots of fun along the way. Thanks for sharing your project.

It makes you appreciate things more when you put that much love in it. Great ☺️

Nice to see a father and son working together

Nice maintenance work, but you should invest in steel toe security shoes...

These machines are meant to last generations. It is wonderful that you, your dad, and your local farmer know how to tackle such a project. I recommend your videos all the time. See you in your next video.

Those pins looked practically new compared to the pins on my track loader when I bought it. Nice to see others having "fun" working on their heavy equipment too.

Your Raid advertorial was one of the funniest and classiest bits of comedy I've ever seen. Your 'air punch' had superb comedy timing. I actually laughed out loud. I salute you - and want to get Raid at the same time. You honoured Raid's money and your own integrity at the same time using English humour. It's a wwapon only we know how to wield.

Great work. Very much like seeing good maintenance like this. Very interesting to see it being done. Looking forward to the kingpin job...and the other building restoration work.

The hydraulic cylinder issue could be air, you would be compressing the air instead of moving the hydraulic fluid causing slow extending of the cylinder and the air would heat up as it was compressed

I have binge watched all your videos while in quarantine. They're great! Keep them coming.

If the cracks continue to appear on the excavator (tired material) the next step would be to cut and weld reinforcement plates around the most stressed area. The idea is to distribute the stress and not to have any sharp edges, look for the ones installed at the factory for example. The easiest is if you know cad and order these from online laser shop etc. Really enjoy your channel & the work you do on the buildings!

Despite the critics I say nice job at tackling the job of maintaining your equipment even if it meant learning on the job. with some slight imperfections the machine for sure is in a much better spot then when you started. Good job gentlemen and ladies.

great video and work guys - well done! really enjoyed watching - thanks for sharing!

Bravo for tackling that job! We're probably not far from you, we live just over the border in the Tarn-et-Garonne.

When you replace your lights, consider replacing with a LED bar rather than individual ones - far greater light output and lower current consumption too.

Looks brilliant - great job!

A good idea adding an extra fillet over the welded area, the bushes are not supposed to be lined up with the hole, you will only get grease into the bearing through one hole that way, there is a groove around the inside of the housing to carry grease to all four holes if you push the bush in, (after getting it out of the freezer) to block the entry point, and force it around the bearing, I cant believe the mast has cracked that badly after just home use. Good luck with that.

The hole doesn’t need to be aligned since there is a grove on the inside which let’s the grease go around

That sponsor block was golden my guy.

I will try to give you a tip for the future considering how you were cutting the bolt. I think it would be easier if you cut the bolt and nut directly from above at the center of the bolt. That way you cut the nut into half and you can pluck out the nut to sides and then bolt becomes free. Basically what im saying is you were cutting the bolt in half when im suggesting you cut the nut in half vertically. Im not sure if you understood me :D. Also nice work on the video :) !!

You should never grind those welds. I'm questioning if the welds will hold. I can see voids in some of the welds. A professional would have likely created additional plates to go around those large pin holes to strengthen the area. I think you might be doing this again in a short time depending on how hard you are on that machine.

Nice job and what a stunning property. Thanks for sharing.

Your edition skills are the best !

On the 22 second mark I noticed someone pushing what I think was a 1978 Suzuki TS-125 motorcycle. I had one too, it was my very first street motorcycle. Seeing that brought back some great memories. Yours looks to be in good shape for being 40+ years old. Cool!

Outstanding attention to detail

Carl dear Carl. Never ever carry out any building mechanical maintenance in desert wheelies Jesus boot or any other stupid footwear. You will one day end up with no toes. A man I know very well lost half his foot wearing incorrect footwear and an amount of bad luck. Tool belt is a great addition to my build. Thanks.👍🏻👍🏻

no tengo ninguna idea de mecanica, ni de hidraulica, pero me senti muy satisfecha con las reparaciones que le realizaste a esta hermosa maquina. espero cuando puedan sigan reparandola... espero que los inconvenientes que tienes con el liquido hidraulico se solucionen. saludos desde Argentina!!!

I like your channel because it reminds me of my father. My father re-purposed everything he found whether given to him or just thrown away. The only time I saw my mother lose it was when he brought home old toilets from a nunnery. It was the only battle he lost to Mom. I still laugh over my dad's face as the toilets went to the junkyard.

Great work, well thought out, great video.

That bottle of integrity tonic was awfully small...😂 I'm greatly enjoying binge watching all your videos. I'm really glad they popped up in my feed. Your craftsmanship is beautiful!

Something different but really cool. As always thanks great video. Great to see a pommy working cheers from Australia.

Great Repair, well done !!

Very nice. If your hydraulic controls are cable driven, you need to check the adjustments to make sure the detent positions match the valve positions. I have a piece of JD equipment where the cable adjustment wanders and causes heating and sluggishness until readjusted. When you remove bushings without a press, it is easier to cut with a hacksaw or file so the bushing will collapse. Don't need to cut through.

You have the best dad ever.

Re: the king pin. Whenever anyone says they'll replace an item later, I have to ask the question, what year? Unless there is a maintenance schedule being followed to the letter, experience says it will never happen. And always best to replace Nyloc nuts, rather than re-use old ones. Bit late I know but I find a small hydraulic press far better to use than hitting bushes, bearings and the like with a hammer. But you got there! Well done.

That's not that bad of a repair for a used machine. You guys are really resourceful.

Back in the 1980s, a friend bought a VW Golf that had been set up for road rallying. After a few weeks he discovered the body shell was literally cracking up due to stresses that a normal road car might never see. He ended up buying a new body shell but he never got around to doing a full rally prep.

26:12 - what a sign of excitement :D excellent job and video too!

Wow I really like the old barn that the digger is parked in. Looks really cool

Good to see peeps caring for/restoring their tools. One thing is certain, if you embark on something like this, you need a shed load of tools and the right tools too.

@17:05 we used to regularly repair cracked sticks and booms on site. It's a good idea to weld a gusset plate over the cracks.

Incredible satisfying to watch - very nice work! I directly want to start doing the same on my old Kubota 🙂

That hydraulic fluid spraying all over you guys was an epic scene

Great job, great video, great team work, stay safe.

Nice job on the brushing!

Your deep, resonate chimes are lovely! A great ambiance to your life there, I am sure.

Sheesh! Nothing is easy with that contraption. I commend you for your patience. Although, it was funny watching you take one last aggressive grind at that bolt.

Love your voices and how smart you work.

Lots of work for sure!. If you ever have to put brass bushings in those again like at 16:50 or so, you could also line it up and use the vice to press it in vs pounding. That can work better with a metal plate to push against vs the wood, but I saw you have some flat stock you were pounding on. That can be a more controlled insert vs pounding. That also works to put bearings onto a shaft if you take your time and line it up. I did that method when I put new bearings on my drill press restore project. Using a vice or press is much preferred vs pounding. :) Less chance of damaging the pieces as well. Though in my case I did split the wood on my wood vice and so moved it to my metal vice instead which worked better.

Whoohoo another highly entertaining, informative and cool Carl Rogers video to sooth the senses 👌

0:59 Long download time!!

Absolutely fantastic , how to fix a JCB. One day I will need to do this, Thank you ! Just brilliant

She (digger) gives you work, you'll show her some love. That's the right way. Love the channel and enjoy watching you and your father work together. Just found you recently. I need to re-pin and bush my 4T mini....not looking forward to it. Thank god you didn't have to line bore for oversized bushings/pins everywhere! Have you ever checked the slew ring gear/slew motor gear grease bath? Just tossing it out there as it seems that area is often overlooked and can cause very very expensive repairs.

Good job and well done!!!

Your dad has inspired me to stop moaning about feeling tired at 48. Glad you remembered the toothpaste.

20:16 Look, a safety bracelet! It even perfectly matches the safety toes - I like Your style very much! The notorious summer-safety Birkenstocks do their job too, though. 😅

Job Completed Brilliantly 👌

You guys always do beautiful work

Good job + very well recorded.

Those bushes go in a lot easier if you put them in the fridge for half an hour first ;)

Thank you for sharing.

“Slow when given head pressure” and “warm on the rod side” - possible internal fluid bypassing.

Great how you and your Dad have a go at anything 👍👍

you and your Dad are a great team!

The dog is the real hero in this video!

Brilliant work.

well done Carl and Dad. i did not see how you bled the system. from my vantage point, that's possibly the problem. do take care. cheers

Done slowly catching up on all the other vids very top class videos

These slugs or outer pin anchor points should have been veed out re-welded ground back and a plate cut to fit over the outer collar and welded in place to stop stress fracture next time. This area it's obviously a week point and to strengthen it now would have save you another welding job later on down the track

Press fit or shrink fit bushing design and installation is a common method of retaining bearings by use of interference between the bushing and the bushing hole. Bushings are available in standard sizes with both inside and outside diameters surfaces finished, and are commonly available in many sizes. Typically, bushings are designed and manufactured 0.002 to 0.003 inch over nominal on outside diameter sizes for sizes 3 inches or less. Diameters greater than 3 inches, the outside diameters are designed 0.003 to 0.005 inch over the nominal size. Because interference material is built into the bushings, and the bushing is normally manufactured to tolerances of +/- .0002. The effective interference of the press fit is designed and facilitated within the target hole which the bushing is installed. The process of press or shrink fitting the bushing into the hole, causes the bearing reduce in size due to the compressive forces applied. Additionally, the material which the bushing has been pressed into distorts some as well. In general, this diameter changes are equal to 70 to 100 per cent of the amount of the material interference or fit. Unfortunately, precisely or mathematically predicting the size change due to the effective compressive forces applied during installation has not been shown to be accurate. Typical installation compression forces and effective diameter changes may be modeled or characterized by fabricating several test cases and measuring the range and variations of the actual fit. Often, bushings are designed with additional diametrical material requiring a post press fit installation machine process to accurately ream to the desired diameter. Shrink fits are facilitated by chilling the bushing using a suitable median, such as liquid nitrogen, dry ice, or placing the bushing within a freezer. Cooling down the bushing is preferred rather than heating the target housing. Normally, the bushing is of significantly less mass than the target housing, though heating the housing and simultaneously cooling the bushing is no uncommon . When a bushing or bearings are pressed into a housing, the force driving the bushing / bearing should be applied equally or uniform to the end of the bearing to avoid galling, peening or damaging the bushing / bearing. The mating surfaces of both the bushing and housing should be thoroughly cleaned and imperfections as well as burrs removed.

You might have air in the slow cylinder, did you bleed everything after refitting? Otherwise might be some debris in the annulus. Try disconnecting the relevant hose and exercising the controls catching the oil in a bucket.

Did you freeze the bushes first? Go in easy if you do. Does the boom stay fully extended for a long period if you leave it? Wondering if oil is passing the seal making it slower on the way up against load.