6:02 up to 16 colors, great vid btw

I would go with the X1C from Bambu

I went weith the AnkerMake M5. Had it for a month, eaten a few spools of filament, I really like it. Taking a 5 hour print to a one hour print, at the best quality I have ever achieved from a FDM printer... Priceless!

I like that the Prusa is open source so I’m looking into that one

I will get my Qidi X Max 3 in combination with 3dChameleon End of this month. So i have a fast fully enclosed heated chamber CoreXY Printer with an MMU which can print high temperature filaments and its using the open Klipper and has a prusalicer based slicer for less then 1300€. I dont like proprietary closed systems and bedslingers are outdated with the new fast CoreXY Systems and this printer is working right out of the box, no building or modding necessary. It will get the most bang you can get and still is best in bang for the buck. And money counts, does it?

QIDI Max3 will ba a great choice. It have the chamber heater, i can get amazing ABS printing result. And the 325*325*315mm build size, there are no such big printers under 999USD.

Thanks for the very useful review of the current Best In Class 3D printer options. I can't say I learned a lot because I've been immersed in my own identical research for the last month or so, but that doesn't detract from the usefulness of this video. After an initial look, I was put off by Bambu Lab's privacy and security. I realize it's possible to print off line on an air gapped Bambu Lab printer but swapping tiny micro SD cards into the side of the display seems like punishing the customer for not uploading all of their designs to a Chinese cloud server which is a complete non-starter for me. Others too, because Bambu Lab will soon be offering an enterprise level printer that doesn't use a cloud server for those who signed NDAs or otherwise do not want their designs blasted all over the internet. Honestly, I just disagreed with the entire walled garden product approach. I was pleasantly surprised that Bambu Lab's proprietary parts were reasonably priced, but price isn't my primary concern with proprietary designs. I bought into QIDI's first 3D printer because it had dual extruders and an enclosure that would allow me to print two color ABS parts, but the printers were not reliable, the enclosure made them difficult to maintain, and QIDI was so insistent on proprietary parts that they even soldered the header pins on the opposite side of the open source hardware stepper motor driver boards that everyone was using in order to reverse the pinouts to force me to buy the repair parts from them. Bad as that was, they introduced a new printer a year later and my five 3D printers ($3000 worth) were destined for the landfill after QIDI stopped selling parts for them. I'm mostly looking at a Creality K1 Max but holding off another month or two to see if the fix for their extruder is reliable in the long term, and to see if they live up to their promise to publish their version of Klipper that they crippled to make their own software, as required by the open source licensing agreement. Other deficiencies such as the requirement to use a glue stick like it's 2009 (they shouldn't have copied THAT from Bambu Lab) should be remedied by after market suppliers of build plates. I'd like to get back to an enclosed printer so I can print ABS, but the bed slingers are now much better than even a few months ago. They're much less expensive than enclosed core XY machines and the open architecture is much easier to service. My new and improved bed slinger options are the SV06 Plus (with a Klipper add-on), the SV07, or the Neptune 4 Pro. I'd love a 300 mm cube build volume Klipper based bed slinger with linear guide rods, force sensing auto bed leveling and Z offset, a four wire CANbus cable to the extruder (there is no excuse for a ribbon cable in this high flex application), accelerometers on the extruder and bed so I can calibrate input shaping specific to my own installation, and preferably an optical filament run out sensor on the top of the extruder. Maybe the Neptune 5 Pro or SV08 Plus? My application is rapid prototyping and low volume manufacturing of functional products, mostly in TPU. I wouldn't mind a Klipper WiFi enabled printer with no other user interface. I'd be quite happy with a Klipper/Fluidd web based interface to transfer files and control the printer. The manufacturers are getting feedback from the community and are iterating toward an optimal solution. It's frustrating that there is no printer with all of the best features, but things are definitely moving in the right direction. I also wouldn't recommend a Voron kit to someone new to 3D printing unless they were a very technical geeky person looking for an in depth dive to learn about 3D printers and a strong desire to have hot rod 3D printer bragging rights. For those people who don't already have a 3D printer capable of printing ABS, the Voron community has a Print It Forward project where Voron builders can get 3D printed Voron parts from other Voron owners, build their own Voron, and then print the parts for the next Voron builder who needs them. I love community stuff like that.

Thanks for the video, I am somewhat new to 3D printing and this was a great place to start. :)

Flyingbear revision 2 maybe worth a look

Bambu X1C did not work out of the box for me so I returned it and until there tech support gets better I will not buy another. Normal for me is to airbrush my models so color is not a huge factor. I brought a K1 and K1max printers are doing great and support about 24 hours turn around so I good with that. I plan on getting the MK4 with MMU this will allow me to print PLA and ABS for the support with should clean up really well. GOOD luck with X1C

awesome content. You have definitely helped me espeically when it comes to filament on another video. Just getting started with the Ender 3 Pro. Thanks for helping me get my feet wet.

I really want to get into 3D modeling but have no idea where to start!

I have a question good sir. If I were to make 3D Printing a way to make money by selling the things I make, what should I be looking at? And if my budget is big

For Vorons they have a print it forward program to get the printed parts but it's not an entry level printer

Bambu Lab P1S

Elegoo Neptune 4Pro. My earlier units Creality Ender3, Voxel Lab Aquila and Aquila S2, and HE3d was my first printer.

P1S or Neptune 4 if the budget is tight...THE END...or wait if you can as Bambu Labs coming with new printers in a couple of months.

Nice video, I’ve been having issues with my Ender 3 v2 neo with z-offset being annoying so I was thinking of getting a printer that auto bed levels and does z offset by itself.

A half built printer at a grand and you still have to make parts for it jezzzzzzzzus

I have a ender 3 extender 400xl and a ender 5 plus. I find the leveling and getting the filament to stick a pain. I need a large printer at least 400mm or larger. Any recommendations? I have been thinking of going resin. But not looking forward to the cleaning but I do want detail. Ive only printed pla. I do need to experiment on uses of other filaments. Ill be printing one item at a time but in sections to make 4ft-6ft props but not needing color. Will be using prints for molds.

I’m agonizing over the K1, CR-10SE, and confused as to why Prusa’s matter when every single video I see talks about endless non stop tweaking and modding and fixing to get prusa’s to produce good parts, from the same people saying they’re the best, and poo poo-ing Creality which seems good to go out of the box

Actually I miss the Qidi X-Max 3 (new edition) in your presentation. The only printer in a consumer price range with activly heated chamber and also with 325by325 printbed the largest ready2use printer. For the Prusa XL: Its not just about multi material and multi colour. You can actually use different nozzlesizes on diferent extruders. At the moment, integrating this feature into Prusa Slicer still is in development (even no public pre-releases at the moment), so you have to edit your gcode manualy. But's realy a very nice feature, if most of your print can be printed with a big nozzle but some details need a smal nozzle. Actually I did a print manualy using Revo on my mk3s+, sliced with 0.4 and 0.8 mm. First 3 layers I used 0.4mm nozzle, after that 0.8. It was a case there the bottom was the later top, with coloured text inside (manual filament changes). So definitly, with automatic toolchanger you get some very nice features, if you can do such things automaticly. Changing nozzlesizes midprint can be a game changer. Also, the mainboard supports 2 hotends. For more than 2 hotends an extra electronic board is needed. So for 5 extruders the extra electronic board is included in the price. In most szenarios 2 heads are enough. If you just want to change colours, a classic filament changer could be used (universal solutions like the Chameleon color 3d should still work). 2 Printheads are the most interesting configuration. Beside two nozzle sizes its nice for support (soluble support or the PLA/PETG-trick). So definitly, if it were not for the long delivery time, I definitly would opt for the Prusa XL with 2 heads.

Correction all of the Bambu printers support 4 AMS units which is 16 colors.

Anyone familiar with the 3D printer offering from Dremel tools(3d45)?

Great video, I have a question though, from a purely practical print point of view whats the difference between the elegoo 4 vs the p1p? Same speed, can print same materials? On paper it seems too good to be true? I love the finish of the bamboos/wifi/caerma but im still debating if its worth 2-3x the price

How about the qiditech xplus3 and xmax3?

Hi , Kobra 2 max or Neptune 4 max or....?

No Qidi?

Good choice mate, I rather buy two Bambulab P1S with AMS unit instead of waiting for a overpriced junk from Prusa.

how about the AnkerMake M5C $399.

No Flsun v400 ??

6:19

Do I really need the AMS? Without it it only costs £600 with it EIGHT HUNDRED lol