Thanks for watching ! 👍

Yeah, that was just a trick that popped up after I installed it and was going through the steps to adjust it. Really makes life simple ! I'm all for stuff like that as long as safety is not compromised.

Thanks Creel Man. If you get a trailer...you'll want that jack !

Thanks, I'm glad it helped out a fellow camper. Every time I use it I just smile, 😆. I think the anti-sway ability may be a little dependent on tongue weight, but for me its been fine, no issues.

I surely do like mine. I probably should be getting kickback from the company by now ! 🤣🤣🤣

@@sailingonabudget YA you should. From a content marketing standpoint they freakin owe you 🤣. I went to their site from your video and saw their leveling chalks. Definitely want a set, they look so much better than stacking a bunch of lego blocks and then chalking it anyway.

@@RedSiBaron Yeah, I didn't know about those. Looks like I need some too. Maybe I should contact them and see if they'll give me a set ! 🤣🤣

Lol, well I appreciate the thought but I really just wanted to show people how easy it is to use. Thanks for watching !

It's the best. Every time I go to a campground and see someone struggling with a bar hitch I tell them about it. Thanks for watching !

What’s your tow vehicle?

@@briandonald I have a 2014 Silverado 1500 with the 5.3L engine. The trailer is right about 4000lbs.

@@briandonald I tow the 22MLE with a 2014 F150 black ops edition with 5.0 and 3.73 rear gears. I’m in KS so don’t pull in the mountains. Works great.

The hitch I have is rated to 10,000 lbs, and I've always heard that means you can tow a 5,000 pound trailer ! My trailer is only 4,000, so it works really well. But, the tongue weight is what really helps the sway control. The more weight, the more friction, and so more sway control. The Andersen website has some great info.

The best thing about the Andersen is the ease of hookup. The husband is almost always the one who does that task, but what if something happened ? I'll make a video about the mattress soon...!

We picked up the "Lucid Essence 8" SureCool Gel Memory Foam Mattress at Target. Best $300 I've spent on the RV.

I bought a 2" memory foam from Walmart for about $90. I consider our bed quite comfortable now. Might even get some for the bunk beds.

Lol ! Just remember I'm not a salesman ! Seriously though, it works really well for me and my rig. But it may not work for everyone. Always do your research !

Jim, I did tighten the nut after I had seated the hitch on the ball. I will say that I don't think I do it exactly the same way Andersen shows in their video, but I believe the end result is the same.

@@sailingonabudget the other videos I have seen they don't tighten the chains until all the weight is on the ball. Then when you jack it back up the chains come right off without using the wrench to take the tension off. It'll save you a step. Good video!

They definitely make hook up a breeze! 👍

Aha ! That's because it's already hooked up. I leave that side alone, it's already adjusted properly. You only need to loosen one side to get enough slack to remove the triangle plate. No more walking around or hopping over the rig ! It's great !!

@@sailingonabudget Interesting! I've using mine for 3 years now. I've had to modify mine because the battery box I put on the A frame. My brackets had to be moved back. In addition to the stock chains, I've added 2 turnbuckles.

@@ronpearson1790 What are the turnbuckles for ?

@@sailingonabudget As I stated, I had to move my brackets back to put my new battery box on as the box would have been sitting on top of the brackets and couldn't bolt it to the frame. The stock chains are only one length. I contacted Anderson and they said you can extend the chains as long as the hardware was grade 3. I originally purchased extra lengths of chain but found I couldn't get the tension to distribute the weight as the threads on the stock chain that the nut screws onto where not enough. A turnbuckle has it's own threads so the chain can be tightened before putting the weight on the hitch ball. Then it's just a couple turns of the nut. My turnbuckles are rated for 1500 lbs each, more than enough to handle the hitch weight.

Is it possible to leave all tension on the chains and lift the truck and trailer high enough to release the plate? Then you would never have to adjust the chains

Naturally they don't put the size on the socket, they want you to buy theirs. But careful measurement says it's a 1 1/4 inch. I use a a 1/2 inch drive Rachet. You will need a deep well socket.

I try to stay at 65 or below highway driving and we average about 12mpg. The truck has the 5.3L V-8. I'm pretty happy with this combo. The trailer is roomy enough for the 2 of us, and the truck pulls it around no issue, and maneuvering the pair of them into tight spots is not bad at all. 👍

That's exactly what I'm doing. I leave the other alone, it's already set. Sometimes I might lean over and give the chain a shake when I'm disconnecting just to get a little slack. But it sure is nice not to have to climb over or walk around the rig !!

@@sailingonabudget thanks… good idea!!!

That ought to be a nice setup and with your truck it will be an easy tow.

The Equalizer is the type I took off when I got the Andersen. But every rig is different and sometimes it takes a different hitch to make them ride well. I have always liked having more tow vehicle than I need. The Andersen works well with my combo and I really like how easy it is to use. Most important is to get something that works for you. 👍

Hey!!! We have the same problem with towing our 25 f Rockwood mini trailer weight is 6,000. It sways a lot in the freeway with the Anderson. We’re looking into selling it.

@@Berrypancakes229 Well I don't claim to be an expert but the things I would look at first is make sure you have good tongue weight and that the trailer is level when it's on the hitch. You want the front and rear to be as close as possible, if anything the front can be lower but the Not the rear. And by lower I mean like a 1/4 inch at most.

@@sailingonabudget I discovered the problem. Someone mentioned on another video commented that a Anderson representative mentioned you have to turn off the anti-sway. We did and it made a big difference no sway. My husband didn’t read the part in the Manual. It does mention it.

@@Berrypancakes229 I'm guessing you mean the anti-sway control on your tow vehicle ? That does make sense. Glad you figured it out !!

I never take it off. I leave the receiver half on my truck with a locking pin. And I leave the triangle plate attached to the camper 24/7, even at home. In fact I've never removed it once since I installed it. I need to make a better video I think, I'm sure I could do a better job of filming it.

Yeah, I've tried to mentioned that too. I've pointed out my rig is small and light. It's a 25ft bumper pull and only weighs 4000 empty. Now my truck is just a half-ton Chevy with a 350, but it does a fine job pulling the camper. But yeah, I agree, I think they're best with smaller/lighter rigs.

We have really enjoyed our Apex 213rds. It's a great camper for 2 people. If you had small children it would still be enough, just know that the couch or the dinette are not long enough for taller kids. But at 4000lbs it's an easy tow and easy to maneuver into campsites.

@@sailingonabudget Very nice! I been looking at the 187rk and the 215rbk ul. The other ul models are big, i like mid to smaller size for me and my wife. They seem to be built strong being aluminum welded frame instead of wood.

When I first installed it I set everything up according to their video. But now when I'm hitching up I'm just putting things back to that first setting.

Yes, I always leave both sides attached, and then I just loosen or tighten the drivers side. It's another one of things I really like about it, I don't have to climb over or walk around to the other side, I can hook up or unhook all on one side.

So much easier. I've had both the bars/chains and I've had the type where you just pry the bars into place, which in my opinion is even worse than the chains. The Andersen is twice as much but worth every penny.

You can't jack knife it because the chains turn with the trailer. This is another reason why it's better than the bar style hitches. The Andersen website has a good video which demonstrates how it works. It's really been a game changer for me.

I never heard that. I can't see why you ever would. I've never done it either. This hitch is more maneuverable than bar hitches. The whole assembly turns with the camper. Go to the Andersen website and watch their videos, you'll see what I mean. 👍

I don't have sway control, it's a 2014 Silverado. But someone else on here said that it can cause problems. They contacted a dealer and were able to disable it.

I have not, but I did take a look at it. Keep in mind I am not a professional. But to me, that rig is very heavy duty, way more than what I need with my setup. It's also very expensive. That being said, if you have a big trailer to pull it certainly looks like it would handle the job.

Wow, that must be a recent change, mine does not have that option. I can't answer that question for you. I think I would try and call them or maybe see if I could contact a dealer.

I never thought of that. If I ever get a chance I'll try it. 👍

Hey David, so it is sold as a weight distributing hitch. For my rig it definitely makes a difference.

Yeah it was almost that much, I think I got it for $549. But it's been worth it. I was tired of trying to pry the bars into place on the old hitch, and most of all my wife couldn't do it at all, not safely. The Andersen is quiet too.

@OldMan and Miss Mirage okay thank you for responding thank you for the answers..... I'm definitely looking at that thing I would love to have it but dumping $600 oh boy

@@rickmarchetti3698 All I can say is every time I hook up it makes me happy I did. And almost every time I do it at a campground someone comes over to ask about it.

@@sailingonabudget I'm going to invest in one that's for sure, and beats the heck out of putting up that heavy hitch I have even though I can handle that just fine. As soon as I can drop $600

My first question is what's your tow vehicle and what are you towing ?

@@sailingonabudget 2019 Ford Expedition Max with HD tow package (9000 lbs rated). Apex 256BHS, 5500 dry weight, 700 tongue weight

@@myjunkmail007 Well that doesn't sound bad. I really prefer a truck for towing but that's just me. I think I would go back and double check the setup. Go to Andersen website and watch their video a couple times, check and make sure the hitch is set to the right height and that the trailer is really level. That part is super important, and may have changed with what you loaded in. FWIW I always have about a half tank of water, I like to have some when traveling. I also tighten up the chains while I have the trailer jacked up a little, just because it's easy to do it then. So when I let it down I know they are good and tight.

If you’ve got the ford sway control built into the vehicle, you need to disable that. The vehicle sway control and the hitch are fighting each other.

No, I only tighten - or loosen - the chain on one side. I just leave the other side alone. If you loosen one side the other side is going to be loose too. Maybe I reach over and give it a shake before I take off the triangle plate just to make it have some slack in it. But I don't change the adjustment so I don't need to do anything to that side when I hook back up.

I don't have a link because I can't remember where I bought it but it's the model #3348.

So if it’s another form of friction, which we know it is, then it isn’t a gimmick. He is saying the chains are easier to work with than the bars,

If you go to Andersens's website they have a pretty good video that shows what's happening. But basically, the Triangle Plate is attached to the Ball by a Pin. The shaft of this assembly is tapered and sits in a matching aluminum receiver. The weight of the camper gives friction to this assembly. The friction is what gives you the anti-sway protection. Hope this helps !

Yes, I basically just have to work from one side after I set it up the first time. Once you go through the setup and everything is done both sides are equally tight. THEN when you un-hitch you only need to loosen one side because once you do one side the other side will slack off also. Give the chain a wiggle and you will see there is enough slack to take off the triangle plate. So when you go to hook up again you just need to tighten the bolt on side because you never touched the other side.

Yes, it takes 10 seconds. I normally leave the other side tight and I can do my hookup all from one side. Sometimes at a campground if I can't get backed up reasonably straight I may have to loosen the other side to be able to line up the plate to put the pin in. But so far that's pretty rare for me. Even if I have to, it only takes an extra minute.

I've seen quite a few videos of folks just raising up the tongue and not having to loosen anything. After it raises up a bit, there is enough slack in both sides to pop off the triangle plate.

That is definitely possible. I tend to run my chains pretty tight so I need to loosen the side I'm on, typically the left side because I keep my rachet on that side. But if you don't get enough tension on the chains then won't get good weight distribution.

@@sailingonabudget Gotcha and thanks for the response. I'm using a Husky WDH which is everything you described...heavy, greasy and a PITA to install/remove. Once I get a couple extra bucks I'll pull the trigger on the Andersen. Thanks for the info.

Yeah you don't have to loosen the chains at all, just jack it up and pull the pin and it will wiggle down no problem

Nope ! Because the ball actually turns with the trailer they recommend no grease. That's part of the sway control. The ball is part of the tapered shaft that gives the hitch the resistance to turning. At slow speeds - such as backing into your campsite - it's not enough to matter. It's an ingenious system.

@@sailingonabudget I thought so. But my current configuration needs it. So difficult to disconnect.

@@jessecox5317 I can relate. Truthfully my hitch ball always has a little grease on it from a boat trailer I pull, but I haven't noticed much difference. But according to Andersen you don't need it. What I really like is not having to find a place for the bars and the greasy end !

It doesn't need one. The design of the ball mount uses a tapered shaft which works with the triangle plate and acts like a friction anti-sway. It works great. And it's one less thing to deal with.

You may be right. I'm assuming if they have one they've already set it up properly and know how to hook it up. My video is just a short cut that I use, one that can be used in most circumstances. The far side chain is already properly tensioned. You only need to loosen one side to remove the triangle plate. So when hitching back up I only need to tighten that same side. The only time you may have a problem is if you can't back up straight when you are hitching up. Sometimes certain camp sites are tight and it can be difficult to get straight. Then you may have to loosen the other side to get the plate on. But yeah, 4 turns is what Andersen recommends. Thanks !

@@sailingonabudget it is nice that you reply- I am a hands on person and many times I automatically assume people “will do or should have”. I agree with you on trying to make it short and sweet as far as what you did. It is helpful to some, my angle of thought was that what about someone researching on experiences then just assuming you just crank it down so to say, even though they should reference the installation instructions. Some look for short cuts, it’s good to see the great success. They are a great unit easy to set-up, and may I add even easy to back up with it connected! Be safe and enjoy your travels!

Honestly I've never had that problem, but I can see how it could happen. I've always been able to line up straight with my camper but some situations it might be difficult to duplicate the same moves you made to park it. Some spots are just harder to maneuver in and out of. I think I would try putting the triangle plate on with the pin in place and then giving it a few good whacks with a heavy rubber mallet to line it up. It is pretty heavy duty and it should move. I haven't tried this but I will. If it isn't too far out of line you could try loosening up the chain that is too short and then tightening it back up to pull the plate into line. Next chance I get I'll try and see. I'll purposely back in at an angle and see what works. If I can come up with some options I'll make another video.

@@sailingonabudget Andersen specifically instructs that you should NOT use a hammer or mallet of any kind to force the triangle to move.....

@@karenwall7858 Well I imagine they would have to, just like they have to tell people not to eat the laundry pods. If they didn't someone would sue them when they bent it with a sledgehammer. The whole setup is pretty tough, it has to be to do what it does. I personally would have no problem whacking it with a rubber mallet. And I will next chance I get.

​@@sailingonabudget I keep a roughly 30" long 1/2" dia. steel rod with me. I put the two shackles in the plate (without chains). I then slide the rod through those shackles and use that to lever the plate back to square with the trailer....works well! I had no luck moving it with a rubber or rawhide mallet.

@@randalltodd4187 That is good idea ! I'll probably go ahead and set up something like that, just in case. Like I was saying I've never had a spot where I couldn't back straight up to my camper, but I can see it happening some day. Best to be prepared.

Wow, you must have a better jack than I ever did. I could never get any of mine to raise up that high. Even so, I still feel the Andersen is easier and faster. And I have no greasy bars to deal with. No grease anywhere for that matter. But it's all good, everyone has their preferences.

Well, I guess I can't agree with that. If there isn't tension/weight on the bars why have them at all ? And my chains get bar tight, they are definitely transferring/distributing the weight as designed. I've had the round bar and the torsion bar type hitches and for me the Andersen works just as good without the hassle. But hey, everybody's rig is different. Go with whatever works for you.

@@sailingonabudget you put the bars on and then apply the weight so you don’t have to struggle to attach round or trunion bars. Doing it this way ensures you transfer the weight to the tow vehicle frame. The point of the weight distribution is to keep tow vehicle level with the camper. Go back and watch your video. Look at how far your truck squats with the Anderson hitch. By the looks of it it’s about 2-3” then go watch a video on a properly set up Curt. You can’t even see the truck move. I have the same truck you have and with 1250lbs tongue weight it squats less than 1/2” . I’m not trying to be rude just informational. Those Anderson hitches are a joke. They control sway somewhat but as far as weight distribution they are useless. Have you ever measured the loaded vs unloaded height on your truck? A good place to measure is from ground to bottom of bumpers or ground to center of wheel well. As somebody who tows regularly I can tell you if the squat is more than 1/2”” your hitch isn’t doing anything. I’ll even give the Anderson a handicap and say 1/2”-1” of squat would be acceptable

I get what you're saying. That particular hitch is rated for 10-14K trailer wight and up to 1400lb tongue weight, so it's a little overkill for my rig. My Apex 213 weighs about 4500 fully loaded. Again, this is not my first rig either, I've had other trailers and hitches. I still really like my Andersen hitch. It does a great job for my setup. I'll check out my sag next time I'm on a level spot because I am curious to know. Just visual observation when I'm parked somewhere my truck looks nice and level. I know the trailer is level because I measured for that during setup. One of the biggest thing I like about the Andersen is that my wife can hook up and unhook the rig without me. I also really like not having to deal with greasy bars. I'm not trying to sell anybody an Andersen, the video is about why I like it. I don't say it will work for every rig. But for me, it works great.

The Andersen flat works. People that say they don’t without trying one are misinformed.

The only other way to release the tension would be if you were able to raise the hitch high enough. My electric hitch does not have that much travel. So I raise it a couple of inches and then loosen the nut on the side I work from. That gives me plenty of slack to remove the plate and only takes a few seconds. It works for me.