One tip that I use is--- Once your logs/ wood is all set, and you are about to lite it. Take one or two waded up newspapers, lite them and stick them directly up in the flue, or at least directly under the flue. (and then quickly lite your bottom paper)... and shut the door and keep it shut-- just walk away and let it start. And the heat rising straight up into it will start your vacuum and suck the smoke from your main fire, and it should just have a chain reaction from there...... If you keep having trouble starting your fire with the door closed, it just means you are not building it well enough yet.. I use a lot of scrap 2x4's and such... and one more trick that has helped me a lot is to lean two boards against each other so that it creates a horizontal tunnel.. and you can stack your wood above all that. The "tunnel ensures that the smock is being sucked to the back of your stove and not coming out the door.. Inside this "tunnel, you need to get good at building your starter fire, usually take a nice dry log and split some very thin pieces from it with a hatchet... also use a hand full of twigs from the yard.. below that I usually have a nice piece of cardboard , and below that i have my paper.... So you see, as it lights, the paper lights the cardboard,carboard lites the twigs, twigs lite the smaller splits-- which all end up liting my "tunnel material.... Its easy for me to build this 'tunnel with dimentional lumber. But you can also do it by placing a nice 3 or 4 inch diamber log on the left and right side, and then cross stack a lot of larger sticks and thin log splits.... and then build your starter paper, cardboard/ kinlin just as before. You'll only have to do this right ONCE, and then you will see the light and realize that the extra effort is well worth it and you become confident in knowing that you've built it correctly, and after you lite your "flue paper, and then bottom paper, you can shut the door and walk away knowing that it WILL start. You will get better and more efficient at building your "starter fire in that "tunnel over time........... Also, the horizontal pipe in your flue should be fine because you do have 6 ft or so of vertical pipe right off of your stove, so that is plenty to pull a vacuum and get thigns moving, you just have to send heat directly up the flue as i said, with some dedicated paper to start with, as you lite.. Other than that, if its still leaking into your house even when you are adding wood-- that is just because you're not letting it get hot enough. I still make this mistake sometimes/ the room gets comfortable so you close everything down to make the fire smolder and last longer... well that causes some smoking issues--- so if you know you are about to add wood, open up everything--- open your damper all the way and open the front holes for a few minutes and let it feed and heat up good and hot, so when you open that door, it has no choice but to vent up the pipe because of the heat forcing it to rise. And one last tip that is a NO NO--- NEVER open the door with the damper open--- Im sure you know this but I just feel like I had to say it.

Yeah, your biggest problems are the bends in the pipe. Whenever possible you want the pipe going straight up. Another problem, is the amount of pipe that is outside. A hot flue is what creates the draft (temperature differences). Too much uninsulated pipe outside can cause flue temperatures to drop when you close the damper, thus a loss of draft. When you go to add wood open the damper wide and wait several minutes before open the door. This will heat up the fire and the flue before you open the door. Then open a crack and wait another minute or two before opening wide. As a last resort they sell chimney caps that have a built in electric fan that can be turned on to suck smoke up and out of the pipe. I have no experience with them, but they are evidently popular in Europe. American versions are very expensive, but I have seen an Italian one reasonably priced on Amazon. But I think if you just get the draft reestablished as I describe above you will be fine. You obviously have draft as your fire burns well. You just need to get that pipe warmed up before opening the stove.

I agree with caholli; I have always shoved some paper up the chimney and light it, to create the updraft before lighting the paper under the wood.

hi I realize its 2020 but thought I'd give my 2cents. we also have a problem with smoke coming in when I open the fireplace door, some things to remember open door a bit and wait about 30 seconds before opening fully, the wood your burning if it sizzling its not fully dry which causes more smoke I have also read that if your house is too sealed opening a window close to the stove will make the updraft better till the stove gets really hot , I have tried this and it did help I find some of our wood still has moisture and that is why smoke comes in the house when door opens , do a test, buy wood from store that is fully seasoned and try that , if it makes a difference then that may be the answer it does sound like your wood is not fully dry by the sizzle sound from your vid . hopefully you find the answer Glenn

Yup, I second the open the ash door (if you have one) during lighting, That feeds Oxygene from directly below the combustion box, Its like turning on a powerful blower/bellows. I never use more than one match, and during smoky (and cold flue) lighting I can keep the front door shut and Everything goes where it should, right up the chimney. The bottom fed air is really something, will also get a ragging fire going in the morning by just laying a few dry logs on remaining embers. Found your posting while looking for a tutorial on how to find leaks in the fire box. My 40 year old Vermont Castings Resolute my have a firebox seem leak Im trying to figure out how to find..... Good luck with your life adventure. It looks like you got it going on. Happy trails.

My wood heaters can both smoke back into the house or in the case of the 2nd one into the garage. All I do it open the nearest door to the outside to equalize the pressure in the house to the outside. Thus, the heat starts to flow up the stack like normal. I also build my fire (as some point out) upside down, by placing the largest pieces on the bottom and then smaller pieces up to the top then roll up the newspaper (about 5 pieces) and tie into a knot and light it on the top of all the wood. The paper gets going then the kindling then the larger pieces at the bottom. The drafts are all wide open and the door is cracked about 1/4 to a 1/2 inch until the kindling starts to pop and crackle then I close the door. Then start closing the drafts down but I still make sure the fire is strong.

Your chimney is the problem. The horizontal pipe is 1 issue the chimney is actually too long. I would suggest the following, 1 the best thing would be to move the tee fitting up as high as you can, move the stove closer to the wall and use 2 45s instead of the 90 elbow. Also that stove needs a fresh air intake. Think of it this way the chimney is full of cold air which is heavier that warm air when you light a cold stove the column of cold air wants to come in your yurt. the less you need to heat the better. 90s disrupt the flow so they add to the problem. The best chimneys go straight up.

I have the exact problem. I sort of fixed the issue by leaving the wood stove door opened for 30 min. then staking wood in the box and starting the fire with small kindles at the very top. in the days to come I will try to install a direct outside air vent which is going to feed outside air in the wood stove and not warm air from my home. if that doesn't work,they sell a venturie spinning chimney cap that spins and pulles air out of your chimney cause out outside winds. GOD BLESS✝️

After stacking the wood, try stack crumbled news paper sheets on top and light them first...that will push the cold air up and create a draft, and also partially shut the door

I also have a Silverfire product, had smoke back issues, on my unit there are narrow gaps that the fire passes through which became clogged in the stove. I need to take the stove out every 2 weeks to bang out the creosote. I also use a product called Kathite which helps keep the creosote down.

A few things to consider. - You have a very long (I think too long) horizontal run with your stove pipe. This will prevent good drafting, especially at startup. Move the stove closer to the wall and shorten the horizontal run. -Try a top down burn with far smaller kindling at top (at the top, the kindling ideally works well if they are twigs or thin wood splits, less thick than your finger), and you can use less paper (paper smokes a lot). Plenty of sources around explaining how to do a top down burn (even I did one at my blog). - If you use a torch, avoid paper, and rather play the torch on your kindling and get that started well. - Try using a commercial wax based fire starter. - Don't crack the door unless your wood stove instructions say to do so -- normally opening the primary and secondary air fully and closing the door should provide enough air and draft. - Your stove itself may be part of the problem. Maybe badly designed. - Did you clean your chimney this year before needing to burn? Especially that horizontal part (which probably will collect the most creosote resulting in blocking good drafting of the chimney). Does a cleaner chimney help? If so, you may need to clean more regularly. Hope this helps.

Usually I get a good kindling fire and slowly add bigger chunks, more on the likes of heating up all the metal including pipes, so heat expands and there are less places for it to leak smoke. Adds to the efficiency of the draft and the smoke evacuates better.

Here is what you need to know: As stated in other comments, you do have too many 90 degree bends. None is ideal. Start the draft by placing loosely crumpled newspaper in the flue. Light that and it will start your draw. Pipe diameter: Increase the pipe diameter to 8". A 6" diameter flue will not create enough draw especially with your distance and the aforementioned elbows. Also, correct me if I am wrong, but I believe the pipe height is 2' above 10 ft. horizontal. Or 2' above the ridge height if closer than 10' horizontal. Lastly, in the case when you have a low pressure system move in, you will see the smoke rise out of the terminal cap and immediately drop to the ground. This will have the effect also of forcing the draft back down the chimney whereas it will exit your door and/or seal. The remedy here is to build a simple terminal cap in the shape of a capital H with the flue pipe attaching to the center of the horizontal T. Lean the two vertical legs in about 5 - 10 degrees, does not have to be real exact. Now, when the low pressure outside air hits the cap, the smoke will be forced downward through the vertical legs and exit the bottom of the legs. This will still create the needed draft out of the main chimney pipe. I have used this system in 40 years of burning wood in a stove and have always had excellent results.

Tuna can fill with rubbing alcohol place in the middle of stove light with tissue. This method will heat up your chimney and get your kindlin going. No smoke

Not only have you two 90° bends but you have a 3 to 4 ft horizontal flue pipe connecting them ....no wonder your getting smoke back into yhurt. Smoke like water takes the path of least resistance. So as soon as you open the door of your stove its going to take the easier route of coming out into your room instead of struggling to go up flue. I'm not sure if you can but are you able to reduce the horizontal pipe ? Obviously a safe distance is required from the yhurt sides. If you could reduce it by half though you would notice a tremendous difference . Is it possible to have a vertical pipe and go out through roof of yhurt ?

Negative pressure maybe the issue - Cold air coming down chimney (because they're cold) when the hot air is trying to go up causes the smoke to push out. One fix is in the airflow and starting fire slowly by adding kindling then small stuff with the door slightly open (not too much) until you get some ambers at which time add the logs. You'll spend probably about 10 to 15mins to get it going but it's a small price to pay if it works. Other than that, wet or damp wood is always smokey. The other two cheaper options are open the woodburner about 40mins before starting the fire to let cold air out of chimney or using that blow torch up the flu in which case you'll see the torch flame getting sucked up the chimney (ready) rather than blowing out.

Great info!

Typically the more bends you have in the pipeline, the less draft you have going out. The best advice I could perhaps usually an auxiliary air intake.

Hello, you asked for tips sure can do. Use matches instead of a torch, it is more ecofriedly. Have you cleaned up the cheminey? (this needs to be done every year if your using it frequently). Also,opening the ash tray door (was not able to see if your stove has one) instead of the main woodstove door increases the drag from below. Remember that your cheminey has 3 x 90 degree it slows down the drag. Keep up the good work.

Use small kindling with slightly larger pieces on top & leave your torch on it longer to get it started & leave the door open more.

You could get a curved pipe at the top that will rotate so, that the exhaust is always opening downwind. It has a sort of "rudder" and it turns with the wind. More draft. Me thinks. And you could fit an adjustable barometric flue damper to prevent too much draft. I think you might be able to make the draft optimal. I think you could even make some kind of "feedback loop" with the barometric damper and outside air pipe, if your stove has one.

Looks like you might need a higher gauge of rope sealing on the door. It's looks recessed a bit.

LOL Are you kidding? That's bad? Heck, I have smoke leaking out directly into the house with the door CLOSED. I may definitely need the roof pipe extension.

Good video guys 🕯☕️🚬

How much higher than the roof should the chimney be ?

Nice, looked like it worked !!!

Is your wood super dry? Wetter means more smoke.

They have chimney caps that are supposed to remedy downdrafts. Also if your indoor pipes where insulated, or even just double wall, it would give your draft more thrust I believe.

I know a lot of houses are reasonably air tight these days. I wonder if pressurising the house (or the room) briefly could force the hot air into the flue, after which the flue should sustain its own up-draft. This is just a thought bubble, I never tried it.

The fire is not drawing properly due to the badly designed flue, the 90 deg bends these are restricting the air couple that with the long run between the 90 deg bends it's a wonder it even works at all. You need to shorten the distance between the bends and replace the 90's with 45's, the horizontal run of pipe will also gather lots of creosote and basically be impossible to clean, which will lead to a chimney fire

Dont know if this is a good idea? but i heated my pipe with a torch to help create upward draw

I like this video I'm having same problem when putting more wood in smoke comes out . I tried different things but haven't found solutions yet other than somehow changing the pipe to go straight up because I have a 90 coming right off top of stove then a 30in cross over to another 90

This is probably way too late, but I know that a straight up pipe is known to be much more reliable.

Look up auto draft stove blower fans

Take the screen out of the cap . Flash lite the stove with a hand fill of news paper to get the up draft started .

If you pre heat your stove pipe above , with your torch (3 to 5 min ) before starting the fire it would stop that ....

How many years do you let your wood season for could be that

Still not good enough. As long as you get your glass dirty and stained sucktion or the air flow is not good enough. I have same issues. This dann thing is like racket sceins. One thing is for sure in my case the easier burnong wood like pine makes higher tempreture quickly and then it runt ok. Bur OBS once the stowe and chimney get cold and kondesation build up, it is freakin nightmare to get it started...almost impossible. Once you use it, use it every day, or don't fired it up cold unless very very dry outside.

You may need an air intake for the stove or get a stove that has a outside air intake.

Hi. I’m new to using wood stove. If smoke comes into house how long does it take for the smell of burning wood to go away? It still smells like a bbq in my basement even with windows open and is been three days since my stove has been off?

Get rid of the bend in your flue!

Hi, Is this stove is epa? I have similar problems with my epa stove my father too (similar stove but bigger). Adding a section of chimney didn’t fix the problem, it looks like "modern stove" (double combustion) are way more prone to smoke problems. Older stove that takes the smoke right out never have that issue. My epa stove collect smoke in front of the loading door, which to me is part of the issue. When the draft is not 100% pulling and I reload the stove get smoke inside the house which is horrible. Nothing that I’ve done as fix this issue, I’m very disappointed with the design and engineering of this stove (Drolet). At this point I’m considering changing this stove, since my dad has the same issues I think that the maker trying not to pollute outside made a big mistake in the conception of the stove. ✌🏻

What about some type of fan mounted at the end of the chimney on a switch so you just make negative pressure for few minutes while you have to door open.

A liitle smoke here and there is expected.

Banking fire or caring fire for you and yours would be awesome especially since where you live, also look into baffles.

The music blew my ear out was so loud

advert after 30 secs turned off!!!

انا من سوريا وعندي نفس الصوبة

chimney not high enough!!!!

Bad stove design

My favorite fire starting method: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/apljoNxz2q6VaJs.html

u just wasted 4 kg of gas to lite those woods. :(

P.s. your not starting it right. You should never open. All the way