Helios 44 has quite a few variations, so it really depends on the model you find.

Have fun then! 😊

I'll need to take a look, but my links wouldn't necessarily be useful outside of the UK, as I can't provide relevant shopping links for everyone in the world +the product is literally just an "M42 to EF adapter". You basically need to inspect the product pics and see if the adapter has that "lip" for the pin or not. No other way around it. Ask the seller(s) for pics if you're in doubt. Another useful feature would be a focus confirmation chip, support for that one also varies by chip version, so check camera compatibility list (usually provided by the seller in the listing).

Dunno, it's insignificant, IMO. Literally who cares, outside of murican right wing.

This is an old model. They started with these and later introduced models with different shapes and expanded branding. I know it looks fake, but it wasn't.

It's a timelapse. Maybe one day you will understand what a "timelapse" is. Hint: It's not a "tutorial".

Hey! Someone else had that issue as well and I'd have to dig out the project file from god knows where. Luckily....there's a tutorial you just watched that shows you EXACTLY how I made it. Don't be lazy :P

@@TheUltimateBlooper hehe I'm lazy 😁 but I will do it 👍🏼

That's great - I'm glad such an old video is still helpful 👍

Super, glad you like it!

Literally Miss Teen Universe.

Your finger has oils and does not have a smooth surface. Same as why chalk doesn't work on smooth glass but does work on wood or concrete.

Hahahahahaha

Thank you! :)

Indeed you can! They even have a product specifically for that in their range 👍

@@TheUltimateBlooper SO any lenspen work?

@@monstersuxxio95 I haven't checked whether their VR/AR version is different from the regular one, but you can take a look at their website - they list all the products and what they do.

@@TheUltimateBlooper WHAT website??????

@@monstersuxxio95 letmegooglethat.com/?q=lenspen+VR You are wasting more time asking when you could just google it in 10s... I don't understand why you'd do that...

Sorry, should have put a trigger warning for those of you with weak colons :)

Hi! It's gonna be a longer read, but I hope it covers what you need to be aware of: To start with - it all really depends on the lens itself. Keep in mind that modern high-res digitals are far less forgiving to the imperfections of old lenses than film was. Some glass was also designed with B/W film in mind, so their color reproduction and contrast may also seem a bit lackluster (though can be pretty well-corrected in post). Aging coatings and glass mixtures can definitely be a problem especially with some Takumars and other "radioactive" lenses that went yellow over time due to UV exposure or age. Modern lenses generally have complex element shapes, coatings and glass mixtures to mitigate things like fringing, chromatic aberrations, etc - especially the higher up the price range you go. While there is indeed some cheap "modern" stuff out there that is pretty bad - old lenses that were originally cheap as well will have the same problems and then some. Any image stabilization is obviously out of the question with vintage lenses and - believe me - it's super helpful! Some vintage lenses might need tweaking/modifying or at least a different adapter (as they vary in thickness) to achieve infinity focus and sharp images. I've had to dremel-grind the mount of one of my lenses (a 1959 one lol) to achieve proper focus with my 5D Mark IV. Focusing in general is tricky. Old cameras had special focusing screens that made it easy to nail focus by eye - this is certainly the case with my Canon 1H, manual Zenit cameras I have, etc. Some early digitals had interchangeable focusing screens too, so you could buy a screen for manual focusing. Modern cameras don't have that. It shouldn't be much of a problem if you have focus peaking on a mirrorless camera, but keep it in mind. Old lenses, zooms, wides and telephotos in particular, also generally have lower maximum apertures than the modern glass. Unless it's something expensive - you're usually not going beyond f/2.8 or smaller. Primes like 50mm, 58mm or 85mm can be found with wider apertures, of course. Lastly - you'll be using a crop sensor camera. Old lenses are designed to cover a "full-frame" area (35mm film frame), so by using them on a crop sensor camera you will effectively be "zooming into" the center of the lens. Depending on how good or bad the lens is - the resolving power may be sub-par and you may notice a lack of detail/sharpness in your photos. On the plus side - you'll get less vignetting and fringing, since the crop sensor will never see the outer edges of the image circle the lens provides, and the worst imperfections are always away from the center. Now, *in summary* - I'd say get yourself at LEAST one proper lens for the camera you're buying. Things like autofocus, image stabilization, extra sharpness/clarity, etc - they all make your life easier, photography more enjoyable and images better in quality. Fighting your gear isn't always fun, despite what some youtube videos may tell you - I found that out for myself and you will too. Just imagine the things I can do with a modern 35mm F/2 autofocus lens with image stabilizations vs a vintage 35mm f/2.8 with no IS or autofocus. One will give me sharper results while letting me use a slower shutter (thanks to IS) and let in more light (thanks to F/2), while the other will now demand I raise the shutter speed to compensate for extra camera shake, the lens is slower so it gathers less light (likely even having to be stepped-down to F/3.5 or f/4 for a sharper result) making me raise the ISO (which adds more grain and reduces the dynamic range)...AND I can't conveniently autofocus... Does this sound like fun? I have both options available to me, by the way, so I'm talking from experience. Once you have at least one good lens that's fit for your camera - THEN look into vintage lenses. It'll give you a point of reference and you might even reconsider the "savings" you get by buying the old stuff. I certainly don't use my vintage lenses these days, beside a couple special ones for interesting bokeh (Helios lenses in particular). CAN you take great pics with old lenses? YES. Can they be sharp? Yes. But you'll need to do research into what you're buying and hope for a clean lens and a good copy of it to boot (no two lenses come off the production the same). I have tome terrible lenses that I never use and I have a couple of brilliant ones that I occasionally do use. But overall I'd only recommend vintage glass as a "play around" kind of a thing or if you know what you're doing, not as starter glass. I hope this was helpful :D

Super, glad to know! 👍

Yeah, the old glass is surprisingly good! I have an old 1959 soviet "Helios 40" 85mm f/1.5 lens that I had to adapt to my Canon 5D Mark IV and holy smokes is it a bokeh monster! But very difficult to focus, even with the focus confirmation from the camera :D

Knowing tiktok and what's happened there already - it's not a bad guess by your dad there 😂

Awesome, I'm glad it helped :)

Legit game or pirated?

@@TheUltimateBlooper legit, but i lowkey just beat it, so no need

@@MaxTheManTV Fair enough. The only bugs I encountered in my playthrough were simple layering issues sometimes, when something is visually clipping a bit, but that's about it.

Oh no! It's Chris Hansen! (Gunshot) Hansen: Not again...

You are very welcome!