It worked until I installed downpipes, then the issue (rattle) came back. I tried a few things that didn't seem to help except removing cold start with bootmod3 (which I was going to do anyway). That helped closed valve idle rattle, but I still get it on rev/throttle. Valvetronic is sending out a valve controller which comes with a new actuator so I'm going to give that a try. Never had an issue with the sound; are you running aftermarket downpipes?

@@jgo.m3 I am running straight downpipes and I have a rattle at 1800-2k. But I think it's my diffuser is hitting it so going to give that a try first than the bow clip when it arrives as well. I have no rattle at idle or any other rpm but 1800-2k (while driving) and only when closed.

@@Jewnbug1 yeah that could be the problem.. I had that on my old setup but with the heat shield. My current issue is definitely the valve though; with the car running and the valve closed, I stuck the handle end of a broom in one of the exhaust tips and just barely pressed against the valve and the rattling instantly stopped. Worth trying as a test if the diffuser isn't the source.

@@jgo.m3 I didn't think the valve itself could be replaced with the entire thing being welded in. I'll report back on mine as well and let you know.

@@Jewnbug1 I don't think it can.. I'm hoping it just needs more tension from the bow. Yeah man, let me know how it goes. I'll definitely be making a follow up video with all the stuff I tried and hopefully the fix.

I think it's because it prevents the back flow of water into the tanks. If you didn't have the valve after the tanks and bypassed to the unfiltered water, it would still flow around the loop and fill up the tanks.

@@jgo.m3 Oh yeah, good point. I didn't consider that. Thank you!

@@an032nv 🍻

Thanks brother, much appreciated! 🍻

I don't remember exactly but I'm pretty sure it was 3/4 or 1" flat head wood screws (bought at home depot; they didn't come with mounting hardware) and I used about 7 or so per fixture. They're super light even with the bulbs in.

@@jgo.m3did you mount them to a stud?

@@itskennyyyjai nah, one of them may have gone into a stud but given where the mounting box was, I just used as many screws as there was holes in the fixture.

Anytime bro 🍻

Thanks brother, I appreciate that. How are you liking your setup? And yeah OG def procures some crazy top shelf stuff. Sometimes I'll splurge if I think the experience will be worth it or if it's something I learned about from their videos and other times I'll get something cheaper elsewhere.

@@jgo.m3 My system makes washing my cars easier. I have the first generation Active VE52 and figuring out nozzle size to use. Based on the calculator on MTM Hydro I should use a 2.68 orifice, not available, so I got 3.0 to start with. We'll see.

Sent you an email, wondering if you got it.

@@trconway yep, got it and replied last week. Did it end up in spam or something?

From what I read in the manual, you just need to keep the GPM under 4 if using the DIW/C-20 and it doesn't matter what your PSI is. So far, it seems to work great with the 2.3.

Ahh the upper echelon of KZfaq.. tastes like champagne 🤣 appreciate you as always brother 🍻

@@jgo.m3 😂😂🍻

Nope, I have catted down pipes. Catless dps with equal length mid pipes (like on the valvetronic system) will cause rasp. I actually do still get a little bit, but only if I floor it at low RPMs in a higher gear. Also, beautiful F80 you got there! Subbed 🍻

@jgo.m3 thank you for the heads up !! I just got done installing mine and it sounds lovely but the rasp is god awful ..thanks for the heads up !! And thank you for the sub !!!I went valvetronic after watching your vids lmao

Haha nice! I knew I should have hit them up for a referral code. Sorry to hear about the rasp but otherwise hope you're liking the setup. I know mine is pretty insane with catted dps so yours has gotta be a beast at full throttle 🤘

I've read that iDrive 5.0 and up should be compatible but if you have the ENavEvo system it may not work (though some people say it can but you need the wifi adapter). Best bet is to contact any one of these places that sells activation codes and see what your options are. I got mine from bimmer-remote.com/ and they were quick to respond to questions.

Nah, haven't experienced that

Maaaaan.. wish I'd known that earlier lol. Fantastic tip bro, thank you!

One thing I forgot to mention was that I felt like the 1.45 aerated a bit better than the 1.25 but yeah, it's not as thick. What kind of soap did you use?

I used CG sticky snow ball , 3 oz foam seem a bit better less runny

Really appreciate that brother, thank you 🍻

I can't recommend the CR Spotless system enough when it comes to DI. Our TDS levels plus direct sun make washes pretty difficult, but that system is as good as the reviews say it is. 👍

Agreed. There's still plenty of foam with the correct size 👍

Yeah, I think I tend to think of these videos as a continuation of the last one, but I see how that might not flow well for the audience. Valid point.. appreciate the feedback 🍻

It's definitely loud if you run it in a typical 1-2 car garage. If you're outside with the unit inside though, it doesn't seem any louder than if it were outside with you (which, to me, isn't that loud). As for cage mounted vs sitting on a shelf, I doubt you'd be able to tell the difference over the sound of the unit.

Haha thanks so much brother.. glad it helped 🍻 yeah those door handles are tricky. First time I tried (rear handle) was crazy difficult to get back in.

Interesting.. I love GSF but I might give those a try. Do you use them interchangeably or for specific purposes?

@@jgo.m3 I was running out of the Megafoam and ordered the Incredible Suds to try out. Looks like I’ll be sticking with the Incredible Suds. 👍🏽

@@jgo.m3I ordered the Incredible Suds because I was running out of the Mega Foam. I’ll be sticking with the Incredible Suds, it seems to pull off the dirt better. I am going to miss the smell of the Mega Foam though lol

Sure man, hit up my email and shoot me an offer.

Definitely! It's a hell of an upgrade from my Karcher.

Yeah that makes sense, although in the case of this unit it doesn't happen. Maybe there's some internal function to counter that, but even during frequent start/stop use (like doing wheels) it's always a smooth start up.

I don't remember what the RPM range was for the rattle before I installed the fixing bow, but I feel like it was higher in the rev range. If you watch the install video during the revs, you can hear it I think between 5-7k. Otherwise, it was super noticeable during cold start.

Yep, and to avoid the error an unplugged actuator cable would throw when doing a scan, you can buy a cap for the cable from ECS Tuning: www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-m-performance-parts/dummy-flap-actuator/18302411427/

That sucks, but I'd be interested to hear what gets done to fix it. One of the next videos I'm doing is testing a suggested fix from Valvetronic to see if that works (been meaning to do this for months now).

⁠@@jgo.m3 Any news on the valvetronic fix? About to install mine 🙈

@@davidlangworthy8413 well, so far I've tried 3 different times reinstalling the fixing bow they supplied after stretching it (per their recommendation) and no dice. Then I ordered an OEM bow from FCP Euro and that didn't seem to work any better. I emailed @valvetronic last week with the findings and to see if they had any other potential suggestions and am waiting to hear back. Holding off on the video cause I wanted to have a definitive fix.. otherwise it's like: "hey I tried all this shit and it didn't work". In any case, I'm well past the warranty period but I'm not looking to send it back or even change it out for a new one if I don't have to.

@@davidlangworthy8413 update: they're sending out a valve controller to see if that works (includes a new actuator). Will let you know (p.s. gotta give them credit on the great customer support)

@@jgo.m3 thanks for the update, let me know how you get on 👍. Is it only on cold start?

Not sure which box you mean (actuator?) but this is the fixing bow I used: www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-fixing-bow-18307620323

Nice! No idea why they thought split screen was a good idea in the first place.

Yep, before I got mine my kid picked up a cox retractible air hose reel from an estate sale and they seem to be really well made. Reeling in 75ft of hose with this is nothing.

Thanks so much brother! Hope you found it helpful 🍻

@@jgo.m3 very helpful

If he wanted to send over some of his subs that'd be a brotherly thing to do.

That sucks.. fortunately I haven't had any issues so far but good to know some other brands just in case.

Yep very similar here.. K1800, small upgrades to that, etc. And 100% agree on the hose reel; it's definitely the one functional thing that makes this so much easier now.

@@jgo.m3 I didn't want to spend the money on the cox reel cause I didn't think it was worth the price. But soon as I got it I was impressed by the quality.

Thank you brother.. I appreciate you checking them out 🍻

This is a damn fine point good sir 🍻

@@jgo.m3I still think the Kranzle would look better up there haha 😉

The process and results are what makes it therapeutic. Not the tools or products you’re using.

@@Reaper-Jimlooks are subjective anyways

Sorry bro, I wouldn't be the one to tell you if that will work. I don't know what shelf you have but if it's the 18 or 20" size, that should be able to go into the studs. For the hose reel, you should consider the backing plate since there will be added tension pulling on the hose as it comes off the reel.

Thanks brother, glad you found it helpful 🍻 Nope, no difference at all. Their main purpose is to hold up better than the stock plastic ones when you increase boost (the stock ones can crack sometimes). Also, they look pretty rad 👍

Thank you brother 🍻 I don't see any reason why you couldn't as long as your temps and PSI are within range. For temps, FastPipe can handle up to 140ºF which is about what residential tap tops out at so you should be good there.

Best to keep the flexible/rubber to isolate the vibrations from the rigid pipe.

Nice, I love how incremental upgrades continue to make the process so much better. Even getting quick disconnects was huge! And yeah that's a fantastic price on the 2.0 🍻

The one from the video was a Fixfans hose I got off Amazon, but my main hose for the unit is a KobraJet hose. It's not steel braided, but it's plenty sturdy for this pressure washer.

@@jgo.m3 Thanks. This is likely why you are experiencing the slight surge effect when initially pulling the trigger. I'm pretty sure Active recommends a steel braided hose.

@@Kevin-uc8np they do recommend steel braided but they say that any after market hose is fine, however the kickback I was getting was from my old setup (K1800), not the Active. The Active (both with the hose I'm using in this video and my main KJ hose) has the very nice, slow fade pressure; zero kick. It's one of my favorite things about this unit.

Thank you brother. You guys will certainly be the first to know if the plastic gives way but the internals look pretty solid and, after the first wash at least, everything seems to be holding up. And yeah man I definitely would have loved to have pulled the trigger on a Kranzle, but I'm beyond happy with the 2.3 👍

Thanks! It's not bad actually and it definitely doesn't move. I wouldn't put the pressure washer on the front edge by any means but at 29lbs for the standalone unit, it's not going anywhere.

Haha! I almost cut that part out but I wanted to show the error of my ways 🤣

@@jgo.m3 haha! Glad it worked out. Maybe, if you didn’t see it, right away, you’d figure it, eventually. 🤣

Thanks! Really appreciate you guys checking it out. And yeah, I saw that about the Prevost fittings after the fact.. my bad. Correction added to description.