Similar problem broken pink wire and broken white with red wire. That broke inside the door. Pink supplys power other wire on my model communicates to the water valve .

Even though there is a "warranty", I had the same problem with LG NOKNOK new value 3500$ . They wanted to replace the door for $650. I fixed it like you in 30 minutes of work thanks to you!

Have same pump have to change the bearing thanks for video

Thank you for sharing. This was most helpful as I just encountered the same issue.

PROBLEM SOLVED

I had to do the same...ive order parts by the end of the day i should of just bought a replacement...but i was a determined man with tools

This guy took a bad situation and did wonders! Better than replacing the door!

You could have soldered the old wire to the new wire and fished it up. Should work.

Mine did usual buzzing and last year it would get real hot some days and the pump would buzz right away, but usually started after cooled. This year we opened, buzzed after working first time of season day before, I spun the shaft with flathead and it moves pretty good- so I was thinking some kind of starter capacitor, looking for it like maniac, glad you told me there is none on SP1515 model (like yours)- but I don't know what else to do, only 3 seasons old! Guess have to buy new one since the "jump start shaft and turn on" trick doesnt work

I have the same LG fridge and had exactly the same problem. All fixed now. Thanks for the excellent video

I found that putting a roof strap under the plate worked much better than a shoe string! It has so much more gripping capability! I was ready to destroy it too! :)

I'm so ALMOST there. We've done the air bags, the hot water, all manner of monkeying and prying and NOTHING. It was at least therapeutic to watch you mess it up. Ha ha

Please retitle this video.

I really don't think he knows what he is doing just my opinion

Boiling water did it!

Lol...mine is stuck so bad...dynamite is next.

Should of bought a new washer you are wasting your time

I want to do that for my 30 years old washing machine, but I use soldering iron heat the metal shaft.

Sometimes this is the only way to remove the wash plate when replacing the gearcase. I always inform the customer of the process and that a new wash plate will be needed and they understand or you can try muscling it out for a few hours with vise grips and freeze spray until it’s warped and damaged and has to be replaced anyway. It’s rare that you can easily remove this wash plate without difficulty.

The Hydraulic jack worked really well for me. I tapped a socket over the top end of the shaft with some blue painters tape. Thar gave me enough extra length to push the shaft free. The top of the shaft was all deteriorated so I ended up replacing the gearbox because there was no shaft-bearing kit availa . $250 Since the rest of the machine is like new I figure I got off cheep.

😂😂😂

Did this today after trying most of the methods discussed. The plastic interior seems to have heated up and fused with the metal drive shaft. Caused it to very tight. I'm going to try and use my dremel tool to cut the rest of the plastic off the drive shaft. Thanks for that idea.

Best Advice Ever!!!! Hit it Hard!!!!

I pinched the top with chanell locks and it poped off

As wild as it seems, this is the only solution for some whose agitator is stuck super tight. After exhausing all methods, since gonna replace the agitator anyway, I used a hack saw to saw away the plastic (Maytag Bravos) and now the center metal piece is still stuck but at least now can clean the bottom and focus on the real reason why the agitator is stuck on the shaft. Hopefully I can get it off. Maybe hacksaw method again.

This was therapeutic, thank you. I'm currently stuck trying to rip mine out.

I replaced every board in my refrigerator. I did the same for the seals. I checked the continuity and it was good. (Maybe I did that wrong). I finally went to the top of my fridge and tugged in the thicker wires. The first one had a bit of slack. I was afraid to pull it too much. So I tested the others. They didn’t really give. So I went back to the first one and pulled it. It was broken! I did the hard wire first and that worked. I did the same wiring but the first hole required that I drill through a plastic conduit that surrounds where water and the other wires are. I ran the wire all the way under the door and brought it up through the bottom where the white water tub was. I did this because I have two air ducts at the bottom. It seems to be working! Thank you!!!!!

Have you ever opened one of these units to expose the internal planetary gear box? I've opened them completely and revealed after removal of old grease inspection of plastic gears and repack with new grease. It's ridiculous to buy the whole unit just because the seals have went out allowing water to leak. You can however get the tub seal and inner agitator shaft seal online with a little searching. I got the small wash plate shaft seal from autozone for 3 bucks the tub seal took some extensive research to locate even with part number on seal but it was direct from whirlpool fir about 30 bucks. Bad thing is when tub seal failure happens it tends to fry the stator from water shortage. Poor design flaw imo but saved myself a couple hundred bucks

Why in the heck didn't you tell us where to get these items that solved a VERY widespread problem with legacy XP users?

Same fridge but when I push the paddle for ice or water, it dispenses but doesn't stop. I think new paddle but hoe do I replace it?

LMAO Mate! Looks like some shit I'd do! Ha Ha!! Once you get that center nut screwed off and the upper ring taken off you should just lift everything else (inner tub & agitator) straight up and out of the outer tub. I just did mine which is 15 years old and never been taken apart and cleaned. Mine lifted right up and out. Now keep in mind ladies, I'm 6' 2" and 250lbs of twisted steel and sex appeal! Not everyone is tall enough or strong enough to lift that inner tub up and out. But if you are, know that the hub cap looking agitator piece will come out with the inner tub after you remove the upper ring around the top and the nut holding the agitator on to the spline drive shaft. NOTE: Don't try to remove the agitator by itself. Get some good tacky rubber work gloves and get a good grip on that inner tank - however you can and life it straight up and over the outer tank. Anyway, I sure did get a kick out of him beating the shit out of his agitator! 🤣😂 I did that to a gas weed eater a few years back LOL!! Cheers!

Thanks but the one I'm working on is stainless steel lmao 🤣

That's Was Freaking Awesome and Easy.

Thank you much for this video This will help me solve my issues on my washer

I got mine off using a putty knife and a flathead screwdriver just an fyi before doing this. Worth a try.

I cut the plate off then used a gear puller to get the remaining part off. Took about 5 minutes. Worst part was the noise from cutting the plate.

Lol! I had to do the same thing, piece o crap!

Should the shafts of the gear case turn freely in both the clockwise and anticlockwise directions?

I think you overdid it just a little bit.

What about the shifter?

What brand is the USB and the hub. Thanks

I found this channel because you have the correct combination for putting a whirlpool 5000 series into diagnostics mode, so thank you so much. I bought the metal hub assembly from Ben’s Appliances but yesterday nothing I tried could get the agitator plate off, citric wash, penetrating oil on the hub, prying from all sides etc. Finally I took a rubber hammer and started to alternately hit the sides of one of the agitator fins left right, left right. Eventually I could see that the agitator started twitching slightly left and right on the shaft with the blows. The twisting force had broken loose the rust binding between the teeth of the agitator and the hub. The agitator lifted right out by hand and undamaged.

Thats an incredible fix right there!!!

I found out the hard way 😅

thank you

Does anyone have a old junk "gearcase" laying around that they would do an experiment on for me?? I believe you can knock the shaft out and replace the bearings,but the gearcase i have is still working and i don't wanna trash it in case i am wrong. Youd want to get a socket that only contacts the larger main shaft and beat on the bottom end where the motor goes and in the direction of the tub. The bottom bearing i believe is a 6006z and costs $15 and id bet the top bearing is probably the same one,so if i am right we could rebuild these cases for around $35 or less and save the $200+ cost of buying a new gearcase.

It looks like the same fix holds true 3 years later. I have the same problem. It occurred outta the blue after I fixed the icemaker fan. The new refrigerators are a nightmare to work on. Thanks for taking the time to do this video.

hey, was the mini cd blue coloured? im asking because i got a windows xp computer from my neighbour for free. i saw the same usb wifi adapter with a mini cd but im not sure it was the exact model. cheers

Thank you for sharing

Remove screw and just pour water and detergent and leave it for some time. The washplate will be automatically loosened.