That should technically work out as one would expect the current wiring to be able to handle the amperage load since it is a plug to run the motor at 120v AC and that is an even higher amperage load for the motor than the 240VAC. Cutting the wires and splicing into them should be just fine with that being the deal, right? The problem I have with that, in my opinion, is the plug wiring looks too thin and so I went with wiring of a higher thickness (lower gauge) to handle the high current load. I’ve never cut into the power cord and spliced in the power, rather I’ve disconnected the cord and ran directly to the same terminals they are connected to inside. I may be totally taking an unnecessary step by doing that but this is what I have done and I am on my 3rd motor having had 2 burn up due to the pool pipes breaking during freezing weather and needing to replace the overheated pumps after they ran with no water. But the same connections for 120VAC are the same ones for the two hot lines for 240VAC; just need to make sure the selector switch is on the 240 setting. Let me know how it goes. Thanks for the question and good luck on your install.

@@tjjoubert9322 thanks for the feedback and for letting me know. This is one of my earliest videos and I didn’t have an extra set of hands to help me photograph while I was installing. I have more camera tools now to help with that but unfortunately in the early videos I was still learning how to shoot the video and do the work. I hopefully have improved dramatically. Unfortunately KZfaq doesn’t let me edit the video after it is posted.

Thank you Emily. I appreciate you watching and your comment!

Hope the install goes well. I put a sun shade enclosure over mine and it seems to help keep it a lot cooler.

@@johncasor9698 how’d it go??

Any style of dial is possible. Using the brand of another company on it wouldn’t be something I’d do. But if you mean the style of the dial, the answer is yes.

@@DangerDIY Good man 👍🏾 Everybody wants a 'Submariner'. Me too 🤭

It is a great watch. I agree most people would love to have one. I am partial to the black bezel yachtmaster. I have a couple of watches on my site inspired by Rolex designs. They have a difference but very nice none the less, with Swiss movements, and reasonably priced. You can see them at Bargerwatch.com.

Thank you.

Thank you. I agree. It produces a beautiful watch dial. You can see more photos and videos of my watches in Instagram @bargerwatch

Thank you. I haven’t set up the site yet but it will be featured at bargerwatches.com once I have enough pieces built to launch the site.

My freeze protection has failed twice. First time was because it was defective and didn’t kick on the pump for the pool. This is when I had the heat exchanger rupture. The second time was because the power was cut by ERCOT for 5 hours at a time over 2 days. Because of the first time I installed a bypass and drain the heater at the end of the season before cold weather kicks in. So the second time I didn’t lose the heat exchanger just other pool equipment.

At the time I hadn’t removed them before and didn’t realize how easy that would have made it. Great suggestion and I wish I would have shown that instead of worked around them.

Yes. They have moved the switch at least once. But you should see a switch to move.

@@DangerDIY thank you!

I am just guessing. But there is likely an electronic ignition system that has an issue. I didn’t have that problem and am not a pool heater expert. Sorry. Looks like the part is about $50 to $100 if that is what it is.

Found this on a Hayward site on the internet. Low gas pressure may create a lean gas to air mixture, which may not ignite. If the heater has not been fired in over a week, chances are there is a blockage in the burners or orifices that is preventing the gas from escaping the burner and reaching the spark. Other causes of this problem are: (1) Bad ignitor. (2) bad gas valve.

The valve runs about $230 at Amazon. a.co/d/7aEz43S

I would also suspect the pipes standing in water for too long could have corroded and have leaks and may need to be replaced or repaired. I haven’t done a lot of work on gas lines and don’t know all the ins and outs of safety or doing so but recommend a plumber that does work on gas lines if you need to replace the lines as a leak and explosion would be a really bad outcome obviously. Good luck and sorry I wasn’t able to provide more help.

Thanks for the advice! I ended up sucking all the water out with my shop vac, dried out the firewall material using paper towels as best I could, cleans out the six gas valves, took a toothbrush and cleaned all the tiny slits in the gas pipes that were submerged. Put it all back together, fired it up and it ignited! I let it run for about 25 minutes as all the moisture in the unit was being converted to steam and escaping through the top vent. No more steam as I suspect everything is dry now. The family was able to enjoy the hot tub again! Whew saved about $3500 doing it myself. This video gave my the confidence to at least try it!

I recommend someone that is already doing it commercially. Red Five watch works is doing custom dials. His work is top notch. If it is a design I’ve already made and you just want your name on the dial yes I can do that. It would be $50 for a dial. But if you want a complete custom dial I’d recommend red 5. Thanks.

I haven’t done any custom work for another person yet. I’d recommend Red 5 watch works for commissioned pieces. You can find the guy at Reddit; I think his handle is Mountain Machado or something similar. But you can search for his dials. They are awesome. I probably would be able to make a dial custom pretty well just wouldn’t want to disappoint.

You can remove the hard fuel lines and make it a lot easier to access the glow plugs. I just didn’t want to have to reprime the fuel lines but I think I just put to much thought into that and spent a lot more effort working around them. I’ve had all the fuel lines off before and it really wasn’t that bad. In any case if you don’t want to do the work yourself this is a job any good diesel mechanic can knock out for you. Good luck and thanks for the compliment on the video. I really appreciate it.

Thank you. I have been learning watch serving as well over the last year. I am able to take apart and replace parts on an ETA 2824-2 but have not worked on any other movements yet. Looking forward to getting better each day.

Making a Sterling Silver Watch Dial #watchmaking #watch kzfaq.infoqsmcg9bhoMA?feature=share How to Make a Watch Dial on a Fiber Laser for a custom watch kzfaq.infoPz_kYPgGn18?feature=share They are shorts but I think I am going to do a full length video soon.

Thank you. Very kind and much appreciated!

Thank you.

Thank you. Much appreciated.

Thanks. Much appreciated.

The brass blank I use is is .7mm but you can use .6 or .55mm as well. Anything from 22 gauge to 26 gauge if you are looking at buying the blanks in the US. The alloy is important too. So be sure to get a small sample quantity to test with and make sure it carves it like you want. I’ve found different vendors products cut / carve / engrave a little differently but you can adjust as you get used to working on the laser to improve it. The thinner the metal the addition risk of heat warp is there so keep that in mind too.

It is done on the fiber laser and then I will clean up the holes that go through on a vertical mill. You could also use a hand drill to do this if you didn’t have a mill.

@@DangerDIY thank you so much for disclosing your workflow. I'm looking for a way to DIY my watch dial. And it seem that fiber laser is the answer. Thanks again. Cheers!

@@nguyenuc167 your welcome. I will post some more informative videos when I get some time on start to finish on a dial and hopefully that will be helpful.

If the clip is gone it looks like a standard size. I just didn’t measure it but I bet you can find it at harbor freight or another hardware store if needed. Good luck on the repair, thank you for the comment, and for watching the channel!

@@DangerDIY Good deal. Thanks. Looks like you in Texas. I'm in Dallas Metroplex. Love the Mercedes W123 diesels.

I ran it dry and it burned up after an ice storm. But I installed another. I’d say you are going to get a good 2 years out of it as long as you don’t have a mishap that causes it to overheat. It got so hot that the basket melted. That same thing happened when I lost the pentair motor. You may get longer than two years but I did notice it was louder before the mishap which is usually a precipitating indicator of it aging. That is why I am guessing 2 years.

@@DangerDIY great thanks for the context and details!

Thank you.

Whoa! Sorry.

Good luck!

You’re welcome. Thanks for the comment.

I would guess it could be repaired. I don’t know if there are other leaks and haven’t had the inclination to cut it out and replace it but still have it because I was going to try to repair it. But I would guess you could cut out the bad and fit the new if you could get enough pipe to mend to. The other choice is to try to weld or braze it shut. I don’t have a lot of experience doing that though and don’t know what the outcome would be or the durability of the repair.

@@DangerDIY at this point I think it is more trouble than it is worth for something that won't really be used.

@@snowboredsnj sorry that it is broken.

Thank you. Your comment is much appreciated! Love scuba diving. Last time I went the scuba air was way more dry than I remembered as a young man and I got a little sea sick on the ride out to the dive spot in Puerto Rico east of the island, which made it less fun of course. I had some ear surgery about 10 years ago and have a hole in an eardrum now so haven’t been in a long time but my favorite dive was a beach dive in Cancun where there was a little underwater pass thru like a cave and there was a shark chilling out in there.

@@DangerDIY very nice! Yeah, sea sickness can really ruin a dive unfortunately. I haven’t dove I either of those places yet, definitely on my list!

Hope you have a good repair. Cheers!!

Thank you so much for watching and for your comment.

It is a 33 point. I am very sorry. www.ebay.com/itm/224653250658?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=JOZCj3ICQ4y&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=6O4--MuLQza&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Here is the exact one I purchase and used. Thank you so much for asking. I’ve updated the description in the video as well.

Home Depot

share.icloud.com/photos/0fbQerP9Uvwe1jceaq60UH0iQ

I tried that and it didn’t. But thanks for letting me know. Mine has a confirmed leak between cylinder 2 and 3. Unfortunately it will need a new head gasket some day. If I drive it under 70mph it doesn’t misfire so that is what I’ve been doing.

Thank you. This was literally my first video ever for KZfaq. But I am glad it will be helpful. Good luck and I hope your repair is easy for you!!

Hey there. Just wanted to check in and see how everything went on your swap? Thanks again for the comment and I hope you are having a good week!

Thank you! Hope you are having a great week!

Sorry you weren’t able to get what you needed from the video and that it didn’t cover what was necessary for your install. For reference, At 2:52 in the video I point exactly where the wires go and mark them on screen with graphics. Also I clearly tell you that the wires that are already there when you buy it (the 110v lines) are exactly in the same location as where the 220v connections go. It is AC so you can put either 110v line on either conductor. Make sure you switch the motor to the 220v setting if you are connecting 220v. I made a subsequent video to this one that shows the wiring more closely. I covered that in the description of this video. But in case you didn’t read that you can find that video here kzfaq.info/get/bejne/n7uFfLZhmt-0inU.html And the wiring starts at 2 minutes in.

Here is a screen shot out of the second video with a close up of the wiring share.icloud.com/photos/0f309PWFFlVOdsCu-Gz6iVFsQ