You can put your own wheels on. Drill two holes...

My wife STRONGLY disagrees.

Note this video is just about getting dirt and dust off the pipe *BEFORE* you use PVC primer.

But knowing what cleaner does prior to primer is valuable information ​@@askthebuilder

And is acetone compatable with PVC cement??? Did you run that by the PVC cement manufacturer? It's never a good idea to be an amateur chemist.

I'm sure you're aware WHY the end must move the thickness of the tip of the blade. So inside measurements are correct.

@@askthebuilder i know, but so much fake garbage on this site that i was expecting a fake video

Yes there is a *SAFE* way. Discover which one here: www.askthebuilder.com/extension-cords-size-chart/

If you want to be an excellent rough carpenter, you should work first as an apprentice finish carpenter. Only then can you appreciate why it makes sense to get as close to perfection as possible with rough lumber.

+ tbh violin is "small" so a 2mm error on 40 cm is not that bad but make the same mistake and look it on long distance . The 2 mm from the first 40cm become 1cm after few meters

All lumber is hygroscopic. Read about that on my www.AsktheBuilder.com website. All trusses must be supported by bearing walls. A non-bearing wall can be under a truss but it should never carry any load. Most carpenters do *NOT* connect non-bearing walls to trusses the correct way. I show how on my website.

Easy. I'd start by following the written instructions that come in the box.

Trust me, you will see it. MANY more videos are forthcoming on this project. We start some plumbing tomorrow.

@@askthebuilder Awesome!! So excited for them.

YW as we say in Morse.

I use stanley fat max a good tape but if you put 2 side by side the print on the tapes don't always line up 100% at different intervals

You want to minimize the introduction of sodium hypochlorite in a septic system. That's the chemical name for chlorine bleach. You need to keep the dookie-eating bacteria alive in the tank and chlorine kills it.

@@askthebuilder I understand, Tim. But we will still need to find ways to wash our hands, take baths and showers, and maintain a clean living, you know.

Correct. Power to the people. Rise up! Work how you want, where you want, and when you want.

In ancient times, yes. Now many in the USA have accumulated so much jun, er, I meant stuff, that not only are their garages filled but they have to pay $100+ a month to rent off-site storage lockers!

Yes. All the soil maps are online. Some are very difficult to retrieve.

I'm happy to help. You should subscribe to my FREE newsletter for more tips all the time: askthebuilder.com/newsletter/

If the trunk and branches are sized correctly, there's no need. Keep in mind this is one giant room - the gym - in the school building. All the conditioned air ends up in this one room.

You're not a nice man. Why wouldn't you invite me over for a beer?

@@askthebuilder this was a typo. You have an open invite in Stoneham Massachusetts. I would invite you over. I like your videos and feel i iwlll be sending you a beer in the future when i implement your advice on a project.. Take care, Paul

When you posed that question to your local plumbing inspector, what was her answer?

I'm NOT a baseball fan.

@@askthebuilder Bummer. Then why did you have a baseball bat with you and acted like you were gonna hit that knob out of the park?

You'll not be disappointed. Get 30# if possible.

@@askthebuilder I will remember.

Bought #30 tar paper today.

Yes. Sand can contain lenses of water.

@@askthebuilder How would it look like compared to what you showed in this video? Also, what's the difference between them if there's any?

That's a good idea.

TNX for your kind words. I enjoy drawing gas and DWV riser diagrams. It's therapy for me.

When you read the specs on the Milwaukee site, what did you discover?

The point of all the other things being flushed was to show that you CAN FLUSH just about anything down a toilet - including gravel. But it's NOT a good idea. My wife helped record the video. That's her voice you hear in the background from time to time.

You're right! Congratulations.

Sure, you can do that in warm climates but not where the frost can penetrate to 5 feet or more.

@@askthebuilder even with the insulated cover?

I'm not trying to be snarky. Were you absent the day in high school physics class when basic thermodynamics was discussed? Have you ever put a cup of hot coffee in a refrigerator? How many hours does it take for the coffee in the cup to get to 38F? The huge mass of frozen ground around the tiny 35-gallon pit mimics the above. After the last person flushes the toilet at night, how many hours before the dookie stew in the pit is frozen solid? I encourage you to exercise your God-given tiny gray cells more often and think about things like this.

@@askthebuilder speaking about Connecticut Frost line is about 12 inches so obviously, it would be below the frost line … it was more wondering what type of top I guess an insulated plug would work I guess there was a misunderstanding

You must be talking about a Connecticut on another continent other than North America. The Connecticut in the USA has an average frost depth of 45 inches. Go look at a frost-depth map. I worry about you and all of the misinformation that's swirling around up in your head.

You're welcome, sonny.

Yes, that's one way to do it. Remember, I offer DIY phone coaching should you really get faced with a problem. I probably do 20 calls a week. shop.askthebuilder.com/15-minute-phone-or-video-conversation-with-tim/

There was no reveal video. You purchased my report to find out which sealer did best.

@@askthebuildersoooo you have to pay just to get a name? Stupid

You and I need to talk. Way too much to type: shop.askthebuilder.com/15-minute-phone-or-video-conversation-with-tim/

You could in warm climates. They might choke with ice in places where the ground freezes to a depth of 3 feet or more.

@askthebuilder I live in a cold climate, and I hope to build a shop downhill from my septic system. My septic designer said a lift station would work without freezing. He just said that the things are expensive because, in my case, it would require a 500 gal tank. That plus the pump and the control panel, altogether is quite expensive. He also said that the pumps and the controllers can be a maintenance hassle, but I one man shop shouldn't be too bad. But, I might just go with an incinerator toilet. My designer is dead set against ejector pumps. He also said a lift station for day to day sewage of the whole house would introduce too much maintenance hassle. Based on his advice, I built my house on a slab and gravity feed into the septic system.

No. If you're like Ironman you can squeeze the tube with your bare hands.

@@askthebuilder 🤣🤣

That's not true. Hundreds of thousands of houses 100+ years old have this tar paper under wood siding and there are no stains.

You should subscribe to my free newsletter: askthebuilder.com/newsletter/

YW YL as we say in Morse. Keep in mind I might be the only master plumber that offers DIY phone coaching. I do quite a few video calls with DIYrs who want to save tens of thousands of dollars installing their own plumbing.

Can you please share the scientific data to support your claim that the epoxy will detach from the wood? It's now been installed in that window sill for about ten years and it looks as good as the day I put it in. How many contraction/expansion cycles of the wood does it take before the failure happens? Or, are you *speculating* there might be a failure?

@@askthebuilder My observation was based on using the stuff on the many windows in my Victorian house for over forty years. On the side of the house receiving no direct sun it lasts for many years, probably around 15 - 20, but on the side getting direct sun it's around 4 - 5 years before it's cracking. My winows are soft wood and at least 100 years old so that might have some bearing on the matter.

No matter what tool you use, it's all about placing the correct amount of concrete so you have to pull VERY LITTLE with the 2x4 or the power screed. You need a very experienced person or two who can rake back 98% of the excess concrete. Too many people try to pull 2 inches of concrete with a 2x4. That get's old in a hurry.

I did 2800sq ft In one day with 4 ppl using a rod in 101 temp it can be done , it was good day too

Yes, the builder was AWOL on this job. I don't know if he ever stopped by to check on the sub-contractors' work.

What would you offer up as an equal alternative? I'm curious as to your thought process.

Thanks. I'm afraid you've been victimized by the Back Butter Gang. Can you explain the science behind their method? Do you know about tension forces? Does back buttering solve the tension issue? If so, explain in great detail how it does that. The old master tile setters NEVER back buttered. I know as I had the luxury of interviewing one about 50 years ago. He was setting tile before World War 1. Your question should be: Why did the old master tile setters NOT back butter???????

@@askthebuilder I have no clue, I'm a rookie. I figure there might be the possibility of less than 100% coverage, so back buttering ensures that in my perception. I know when I misplace the tile, lifting it back up is difficult so I think the tension is there good. I'm a err on the side of caution guy, so thats the way I favor. I will though take your advice and wet with sponge as I had noticed even after sweeping and blower that there was still dust present.