Thank you . 👍🏽

Thank you. Happy to hear that was able to help.

First off sorry that it took so long to respond. I’ve been vacationing. Thanks for the compliment, glad that the videos helped. . The fusible link could be the problem. One other thing that could be , is that the alternator isn’t charging the battery….( that is if the truck was running before this problem occurred ) But , yes , change out the fusible link and make sure you have good ground connections. You also may want to check the battery. Even if it’s a new battery, it may not be full charged .

james farrell Could be the ground on the horn it’s self has a bad connection. Usually it running from the horn to the radiator core support. There could be some rust under it causing it to not make a strong ground.

Not sure . I don’t know what type of voltage , amperage or ohms are carried through that wire. You would have to check the requirements of your system and then find out if that brown and white wire is capable of operating it. That’s a great question, but I don’t know the correct answer. I wish I did, though , because that would make great use of that wire.

@@PatinaCode Thanks either way, these videos just made a stressful wiring mess in my cab and under the hood of my 72 much easy to understand. I've been asking on fakebook and getting some good advice followed by some wrong answers. The harness has been cut and spliced and painted so much it's hard to know what does what. At least now I can trace the wires and see where they plug in to so I'll know what I'm looking at .Pretty sure I'm rolling on a fire hazard right now.

@@hdrolling My whole purpose of these videos was to just simply help and I’m glad that I’ve been able to help out so many people. For you all to reach out and say “hey thanks “ is the best reward.

The red wire off the ignition switch goes right to the back of the fuse panel. Sorry it took so long to reply . I’ve been swamped.

Aloop hi 6​@@PatinaCode

👍🏽 it’s been years since I’ve built a 72 . When I first started I didn’t film anything. I was just building and driving. I can tell you a few things on how I would get mine back on straight after pulling them off. The first thing was having really good hinges. And the next thing was being sure that the inner A pillar, where the hinges mount was straight. Since I work by myself, I would put a heavy moving blanket on the roof then a piece of 2x4 wood block and use my big body clamps to hold the door in position. Once the door was latched shut , I’d install the bolts that secure the hinges to the out side A pillar. Once you have the bolts in you can then open the door and see what type of adjustment you need . It is a tricky thing , but once the door is bolted on it just becomes a game of finding that sweet spot. You will having to loosen both lower and upper hinges, so that the door can move forward and aft. Be sure to have all tires inflated to the same pressure and working on a level surface. If your vehicle has a slight forward rake , consider leveling the vehicle with a set of jack stands. Other reasons why doors may not line up could be bad body mounts . Hope this helps.

Always line up doors to the hatch side of the cab….that part is stationary and does move…..so line up doors to sheet metal at the latch…..you can adjust the fenders and cowl panel but not the cab at the latch pillar….hope that makes sense……also they make a special s shaped wrench to adjust doors if your fenders are already on the truck. Good luck!

Are you installing an HEI ? Some people use the pink wire for the hei because it’s ignition on . If you’re installing an hei the you need a piece of 12 gauge wire and then run that into the fuse box to the ignition prong. That ignition prong will come on when the key is switched on , and shut off when you turn the key off.

@@PatinaCode I have the wrapped wire (instead of the pink wire). it goes to the HEI "batt" connection BUT the wire is also (factory) spliced to a yellow wire that goes to the starter solenoid "R" terminal. Is that still needed with HEI or is that superfluous?

I’ll do my best to help you . One of the main things to be sure of is to make sure that you have really good clean grounds . The other thing with testing for blinkers and braking lights is to be sure that you have a really good charge on your battery. Under the steering wheel there is a plastic ring where the signal switch is . Sometimes the brass contact’s get corroded. You can clean them up by using some sand paper. One of the last things is to check all the fuses . Also , check down the signal wires in the finder’s and bedside as well as the ones leading from the steering column to be sure that none are cracked or broken. Again the most common issue is that the system is not properly grounded. Proper grounds are good secured and clean grounds.

@PatinaCode The purple wire in the fuse panel has no power that runs to the little round flash thing. All the other lights work Emergency Flashers , parking lights, Break lights, headlights. All work.

@@davidolds1972 Sorry for the delay in responding. I’m just getting home . Ok , now that you’ve identified the problem wire that’s a start . You may have to trace that wire back on each end to make sure that there is proper connection regarding that wire. These trucks are old and corrosion is the enemy. All it takes is a little correction on the connection sites to cause a problem. Also make sure the fuse and flashers are good.