Thanks for all of the insight, especially the point about the "white" I forgot to include.

@@CNCKitchen NP

@@CNCKitchen Damn, wish I had read all the comments before ordering filament last night! Looks like I will have to try and find quarter white somewhere.

would like to try this can you do it on an Ender 3 pro. If so do you have to change filament a lot or can it print all one color then change filament and do the whole other color and then change one more time for the third color. Or would you have to change the film excessive around times. If I can do this on my Ender 3 that would be awesome. Can someone provide a link where to get the three colors and the special White.

@@jamesl197999 You can do it on any FDM printer with manual filament swaps. It's ~15 swaps and depending on the image size, it could be a few minutes between swaps. The particular colors are at Printed Solid: Jessie Yellow Bird, Pure Cyan, Pure Magenta, and Quarter White

*buy

Me: fax Also me: wait what about a normal printer

Did you do it yet?

can you blame him people run away with your ideas and then make money on your work on your hard work. I have had it happen to me multiple times

Photos on a moon lamp or something

How do you comment 57 minutes before the video is even up?

@@Demertech he probably set the video to private

@@hellocreeper88 yeah, I never knew that you can comment when it's private

Fwi, yo can use a regular lithopane+ a regular printed piece of paper for same effect

yep. see: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chroma_subsampling for more details, on how chroma subsampling works.

My pleasure!

Agreed. About halfway through the video I realized we're just reinventing the inkjet 😂

One interesting thought could be to make art accessible for people with low or no vision whilst also letting people with vision see the picture. I don't really know if this would work however, since the hight differences of the lithophanes might be too subtile to really make out an image by feeling with your fingers.

People want reasons for running their printers, even if it can be done in other ways more practically.

I made a moon that uses this technique for black/white/grey…as the technique evolves I can see it moving into 3D space and more than just color globes, I think it’s smart…

Was thinking exactly the same. A lot of plastic and Ressources wasted to mimic a low res color copy on transparent paper. Different thing with an actual moon lithosphere. It's a sphere and not a plane and it's a black and white object. So an ideal fit for 3D printing a moon-lamp with white filament. But transparent 2D color images? Man...

3D printed color 3D printer manual ✌

Please do!

@@CNCKitchen I works! Amazing. I would like to share my experience with you.

I totally overlooked that when I was at MRRF the first time!

@@CNCKitchen It was just in proof-of-concept phase back then, if I recall correctly. I don't even think he had an easy way to convert the images yet, he was doing it all manually in a photo software. Definitely was a "that's interesting" table then vs. a "I can do a video about this" table now.

Definitely give it a try. The palette 2 is prefect for that!

Thanks for the info!

I did the same in prusa slicer. Works well if you only need a few filament changes. Also it will start the next layer with the color already loaded, so one change less! I used it to print key caps with labels upside down to have a smooth surface.

How did you create the multi-extruder Ender 3 Cura machine definition? I've been trying to figure out how to create the multi-extruder definition in a way that will still allow me to import Ender 3 print profiles, but the "Custom FFF" definition has different default profiles, and if I use the Ender 3 one then I can't add multiple extruders... :/

​@@zombieofthepast Prepare Workspace > Printers Dropdown > Manage Printers > Machine Settings > Printer [Printhead Settings] - Number of Extruders 4 > Extruder 1 Workspace [Extruder End G-code] M600 > Extruder 2 Workspace [Extruder End G-code] M600 > Repeat for Extruder 3 and Extruder 4 > Click-off the text box so it actually saves the Gcode text you just typed in > Close "Machine Settings" You will now notice on the right that your Print Settings now has four columns for Extruder 1, Extruder 2, Extruder 3,and Extruder 4 - as indicated by the (1), (2), (3), and (4) icons respectively. Adjust your Extruder 2, 3 and 4 settings to the secondary filaments you will print your dual extrusion with (Cyan, Magenta, Yellow). Personally, I just copy and pasted the settings from Extruder 1 to Extruder 2 because my printer has pretty consistent print quality for almost any PLA. Also, you may want to make the following 3 Nozzle temperatures for each of the extruders the same if you want to minimize stall time -> which can lead to zits/globs: - Printing Temperature - Initial Printing Temperature - Final Printing Temperature ^ These 3 settings can affect your M104 (Set Hotend Temperature) and M109 (Wait for Hotend Temperature). Ideally, you do NOT want have to wait for your nozzle to reheat from the Waiting Hotend Temperature to the Printing Hotend Temperature after a filament change - especially if your nozzle is hovering just-over your print with filament oozing-out. If those 3 settings are the same temperature, there SHOULD be no wait time in theory. Even better, you may want to consider modifying those settings such that the Waiting Hotend Temperature is 1º higher than the Printing Hotend Temperature so it will start right away. ======= ALSO, some key settings to modify can be found within the NEW Dual Extrusion section in the Print Settings menu: - Enable Prime Tower (if you want to use a prime tower) and other respective settings - Enable Ooze Shield - Nozzle Switch Retraction Distance -> SUPER IMPORTANT; mine was defaulted to (+)16.0mm and would leave HUGE globs after the Filament Change and start of the new layer; (+)50.0mm left an even bigger glob; (-)2.0mm left a noticeable glob as well; IN THE END, I changed mine to (+)2.0mm which worked for me - Nozzle Switch Retraction Speed to match that of your extruder. I have an Orbiter v2.0, so mine is 120.0mm/s; yours will probably be lower -Nozzle Switch Extra Prime Amount

@@x_jaydn Your guide is super useful! It is necesary to add an extruder for each color?

Hope you enjoy it!

@@CNCKitchen now that the Kickstarter is complete and you’ve had even more time with the Carbon… Any other thoughts on the printer that would help a future owner?

Cool, hope it turns out great!

Only 16 color changes so surprisingly little waste. My purge tower only weighs 17 grams

Purging volume on the lithophanes is minimal due to the low number of color changes.

Yes, I know....

Currently not planning a review. Check out @Nero3D because he just received one.

Is there any way someone has a video how to do this on like an ender 3. That would be awesome.

Yellow bird and quarter white for the white.

The Van Gogh and the Colored Women's face was printed on my X1.

No, as each layer is not pure CYM color rather CYM for speicifc section. And Resin tend to get messy so i feel like would cause blending

I have tried that but you get the same effect as when people just try slapping on a piece of colored paper on the back of a lithophane, the color becomes soft, not crisp, and ever so slightly blurry. It is something that is hard to explain but if you see it in person the drop in quality of not printing it in one piece is quite noticeable.

Sunlu spools fit perfectly

Unfortunately not, because every color layer may include all of the 4 colors.

@@CNCKitchen Do you know if you could ink print onto a transparency and then 3D print the white layer onto the transparency to get a similar effect?

There is no direct formula that I have figured out based on nozzle size and layer height. Until recently I just used the defaults but I did crank up the lithophane resolution for the leaf one and I think it made some improvement because of the small nozzle I was using.

It should not be nozzle size, but wall thickness that limits resolution. And you can set wall thinkness quite a bit lower then your nozzle diameter. A pixel is a 2x2 wall square, so the mininum pixel distance is wallthickness times 2. Using a 0,2 nozzle and arachne slicer settings, I bet you could get a very high resolution...for a 3d print.

It's pretty easy. Set your slicer to use multiple extruders, set the filament change gcode to a pause (@pause for octoprint, depending on your firmware this will be different. you may also have to set a park location). import the stls, one per colour, they should import aligned but this will be slicer dependent, and set each stl to a different nozzle. Note the sequence of the colours per layer over the print and swap in the colours in the right order as the printer pauses. resume once you have purged the new colour through the nozzle. If you let us know what slicer you have and what firmware you have, or if you use octoprint, then someone may be able to be more specific. I personally use prusa slicer and octoprint.

It does, yet it requires ~16 manual material changes.

He said europe, but he is german afaik

Germany - flew out only for the event.

Maybe @patterntoprint can help you out! Check his website and Thingiverse page.

@@CNCKitchen Thank you, I'll try to search there. Also thanks for your work and videos that you make :)

The lightboxes I custom designed in Blender for each lithophane. I use a nightlight cord and a really bright LED bulb for the lighting.

@@PatternToPrint ok, thank you for the reply

It just really wont look right

rgb is additive whereas cmyk is subtractive

Disagree, shining light through a standard print looks nothing like this, also the resolution on the avengers photo in this very video is easily high enough to be used to print most art. The actual lithophane on the front that sets the brightness and detail can still be printed vertical retaining the resolution.

They can be but this is just awesome for how they made this work!

@@CNCKitchen Yeah thats true :-)