This video is the best one on KZfaq covering this topic. Thank you for taking the time and making a great to the point simple and thorough explanation!

Great video. Thanks for taking the time to show the bonding process. I'm only learning about this requirement now and this has been the best explanation on how to do this that I've come across.

Thank you very much. I just had Virginia tell us the same thing. Showed this to the inspector and he said perfect. Thank you,

This was by far the best and most informative video. No frills or terrible music. I am attempting to wire my pool and appreciate your time in creating this.

Glad you found the video helpful. The plug for the pump is just a twist lock as I chose to do the GFCI at the breaker panel. To wire the switch I ran the hot wire past the plug and up to the switch, broke it there to wire in the switch, and then back down to the plug. I did not use any conduit expansion joints. Nothing special was called for in the code or by the inspector. I called my inspector several times during the project to find out what he wanted to see.

Nice job Barry. I have to add a pump switch and bond my water now!

Thanks again. Seems like your how to video is a success judging by the amouts of hit it has! Thank you again!

Thank you. I used left over sheet metal screws from my pool - first drilling a small pilot hole.

Very helpful. Good close ups of how bonding was done.

Great video, I have to inform you that the pool you bonded is not bonded at all. That model has the poly resin bottom connector, therefore it only bonds the vertical and not the wall. This is a problem with a lot of the newer pools. You did everything right. except placement of the ground clips. They need to contact the wall to bond with it. If you attached 2 clips to the wall bolts (top and bottom) with # 8 wire you would have truly bonded the pool. Please understand, I see it done your way all the time and it passes! And the customer thinks their pool is wired correctly. Thank you

Excellent Video and pictures for dummies...lol. I should have no problems after seeing this. Thank you for the explanations and the easy to follow procedures.

This was great! Thanks for the details :)

Awesome video thank you for the details!

Very helpful. As Carlos stated, bonding to the pool wall bolts is correct. Other than that great info. Thanks

Very well done. Thanks for sharing this information.

Excellent video, thanks

Thank you. The switch brand is Carlon - marine water proof and completely sealed. I picked it up at Home Depot.

You're welcome. Good luck with your project.

great video, I followed your exact installation to the letter so we'll see how it goes :) Well almost to the letter, I am grounding the motor to the solid copper 8 ga. ring separate from the water bonding, I am planning on connecting that to the ring by it's self and also connecting the 8 ga copper ring to it's self

Your installation was very well done and gives new pool owners details that most pool stores fail to provide. But New York is not alone in it's over regulated requirements. Many States leave it up to homeowners insurance policies to set safety standards. My State is governed by local municipalities, and not the States heavy handed regulations. Just as there are States Rights we have local jurisdiction to enforce our own electrical and plumbing standards.

Thank you for the informational video

Great info. Thanks for making it.

Nice video, also check with your local building dept. regarding the electric install. In Orange County you are required to have a licensed electrician to do the work. The code for the timer is found in the Residential Code of NYS 2010, Chapter 11 Energy Efficiency. N1103.8.3 Time switches that can automatically turn off and on heaters and pumps according to a preset schedule shall be installed on swimming pool heaters and pumps.

THHN is available in multiple colors, but only singles as far as I know. Each wire is in insulated PVC, and my guess is that's what you want. I ended up calling the electrical inspector and asked him what he would like to see. He was more than happy to tell me what he was expecting and answer my questions. In the end it saves him a trip if I do it right.

Excellent, first info on this subject that is usefull

I used stranded. The electrician that was going to make the connection to the panel had it available. He said the reason he uses stranded is it makes the corners easier when pulling through the conduit. He was right. I had 3 90's to pull past and it wasn't bad. I used an air compressor to shoot a small string with cloth tied on the end through, which then pulled a small rope (for grip and strength), which then allowed me to pull all 3 wires. Good luck with your bonding. Barry

Yes on the THHN, but only through the conduit. From the junction inside was Romex to the panel. I used stranded THHN. The pillars on the pool are metal. The bonding plate on the skimmer has one small bolt that does go through the plastic, but is doesn't leak.

thanks for the video

great video

I am currently doing this... this is very informative.... I have all the code info....but its great to SEE it... Thank You for doing this.... Tom

Thank you. I used conduit the same size as the connection to the electrical boxes - 3/4" if memory serves me correctly. Stranded wire pulled through fine with a pull string.

#8 solid copper. I made a loop and connected back on itself before connecting to the pump motor so no free end. No grounding rod because the idea isn't to ground, it's to bond all the parts together (water, pump, walking surface, ladder if its metal, etc).

NY state is rough !! especially here in the town of Islip !! my brother in law lives in Ronkonkoma and his pool is running off of a 10 ft extension cord right to his shed for the last 15 years without incident LOL

Thanks for the video, a few questions, what size stranded wire did you use to run to the pump and convenience outlet ? What gauge or schedule pvc did you use? Thank you

Thanks for the information. This video is very helpful. Did you use the 'beaver claw' type of bonding lugs that are rated for underground use? I have a 24' above ground pool. Using your calculation method, I am assuming 100ft of 8 AWG would be enough to cover the small connections at each post and back to the motor?

I just put in a above ground pool in ny had to use stainless screws to bond pool needed to use tamper resistant and weather resistant gfi recepticals was told good idea to use expansion joints but not code on conduit and I used a continus 8 gauge around pool just to use less split bolt connections and did salt water and had a bonding lug on that as well on the keypad part of unit

- Just to make sure - the quote should read "You can't use romex in the conduit". I'm not sure if UL is allowed. I had single strand available so I didn't look at options. - The code says bare copper needs to completely circle the pool, but doesn't say it needs to be connected back on itself. I connected it together just in case. Thanks for the comments. Barry

I used copper split bolts at each connection. So where each wire spurred off to the pool and where the wires came together near the pump there is a split bolt (total of 5).

Great video. Did you use metal or plastic gang boxes for the twist lock, gfci outlet and switch? Thanks

Nice vid, very thorough. Couple questions: - "You can use romex in the conduit" ...can you use UL in the conduit (its actually cheaper than running single strand? - for the bonding, does the bare copper wire completely circle the pool - meaning, do both ends tie together (not sure if it matters)? Thanks Dave

First Off excellent video! I found it quite useful. My question is this what Brand of on/ off switch is that. I live in NY as well and no switch is required, But I would like to put on on just like that. I have to assume that it's completely water proof.being that it is not behind a bubble cover.

Hi great video. What kind of clamp did you use to connect the two cooper wires together. Is it the same clamp you used to attach the wire to the pool?

Correct. Behind the cover is just a heavy duty light switch.

Yes, the lugs had to be UG rated. You'll probably need a little more than 100' including the bonding to the skimmer basket (if required in your state) and to account for small bends in the wire.

Yes, all of these were confirmed as necessary (or allowed) by my electrical inspector. Not sure where the timer is listed, but he said It was in the 2011 code. Different inspectors may have a different interpretation so anyone undertaking this project should confirm with their inspector.

Thanks 👍

Did you use stranded #12 THHN in your race way? Does your conduit continue all the way to the service panel or did it terminate in the junction box and continue to the timer box in Romex? Was size bare copper? Are the pillars on your pool plastic? Did the fastener you used to bond your skimmer go all the way through? Does it leak?

Did you have to slice in a twist lock plug for your pump or did it come installed with one?

OK, please bare with my lack of knowledge. Code requires three insulated wires (black, white, green) to be in PVC conduit. The actual requirement states 3 wire 12 awg insulated in PVC and must be wet use wire. I know thhn is for dry and wet but does thhn come in 3 wire? I have seen single wire thhn. Thanks again. Ur knowledge of all this is priceless.

Did u use PVC gang boxes with straight male/female connections or did u use threaded gang boxes with adapters. Thanks. What was the type of 12 gauge wire u used? Appreciate all ur help

I used a sheet metal screws left over from the pool installation. Appears to be zinc coated. They might have been a little longer than 1/2".

So the pool store told me that when you have steel pool walls and resin pillars the only place you can bond the pool is at the seem where you connect the wall with bolts. He said to run the copper wire from the seem around the pool and back.. and to the motor. We don't have metal plates under our pillars so this is the only way....btw we live in Ny as well.

Ah yes - sorry, meant to say "...can't use romex" anyway, I'm like you - I'm going to go with single strand wire. BTW - did you use "solid" or "standed" wire in your conduit? Thanks much - I'm going to be bonding our pool this weekend. - Dave

I used AWG12 THHN wire (as required by code in the conduit) in blue, green, and white.

Ok have a trip to Home depot in my future. what type of toggle switch is behind that waterproof carlon switch face?? I'll assume that face plate juts activates a switch behind it? I did a Trip to Lowe's and didn't fin that cover but they had everything else I needed except the ground wire connections in ground. Theu just had the jugs that attach to the pool.

One more thing. What did you use to attach the lugs to the pool post? Sheet metal screws, 1/2 inch''

Great video, but I think NY State missed the most important item. You connected your pool bonding wire to the motor ground, but the motor is not grounded. You should have an 8 -10 foot ground rod that grounds both the motor and the pool. I am in sandy Florida, so mine is 20 feet long. Also. if you are using a salt water pool, don't forget to install an zinc anode, in that skimmer basket and ground that also.

I used plastic for all outside boxes. That way the conduit would be glued and sealed to the box.

what size copper did yuo use for the grid and was the unterminated end connected to anything ie ground rod?

The one I used is called Bond Safe 680 - Model #BS680AG for above ground pools.

I checked my receipts - turns out I purchased the switch from City Electric. It's a carlon e98tscn switch with an ipxfs15 box. Hope that helps. Sorry for the confusion.

So im assuming your pump was hard wired? I have bought one of those intex pools and have a dedicated 20 amp gfi at the breaker circuit. I have ran UF wire to and outdoor outlet for the pool pump to plug into. Do I still have to run the copper around the pool as well?

I think the hardest part of building the pool is trying to find a long enough garden hose to fill the swimming pool up with water.

What do you do about other things that use electric such as bottom cleaners and saltwater chlorine generators, where do you plug them in 10 - 20 feet away?

I don't know anywhere in the NEC where a sheetmetal screw vs. tapped and threaded or nut/bolt is an acceptable means of bonding

I am almost done bonding my pool, just need to figure out how to bond the water. What is that device on the skimmer called and where can I get it?

During my research I kept seeing the difference between Bonding and Grounding. Bonding is making sure there is no difference in charge between the water and where someone is standing outside the pool.

Good video, I understand the helpfulness it provides to the NY state residents. But here in Louisiana I have had my above ground pool for 5 years powered by a 50 ft. extension cord laying on the ground plugged into a 3 ft. extension off the pump. All going to a GFCI receptacle in my Garage. I have to literally unplug and roll up the extension cord every time I mow. Now for fairness, what I am doing with the extension cord is NOT the correct way to run exterior electrical. So I do plan to install a proper power feed to the pump which will be underground and sealed properly. I do not like the extension cord. But... Why would you have to bond a plastic pool to the ground cable going around the pool? That is dang nuts. I am an electrical engineer, and was taught by mt first grade teacher that plastic is an insulator, not a conductor. So that is like trying to ground the insulation of electrical cable itself. Freaking crazy. Which is why most of that non-sense you had to go through just to install an outdoor rated 120VAC pump in your backyard is a bunch of bull. Sure, I know it is the local code, but it is still bull. But even though, I do plan on correctly

I plan to watch this later, but have doubts how good can a full on, electrical explanation of this kind, can be done in 8 minutes or less

Can you explain to me why we only bond 4 posts and not all of them around the whole pool? Is the plug in receptacle with the insulated ground running back to the panel the only ground required? Thanks

Great Video. How did you connect the bonding lug to the upright?

Does NY state require that the wiring exit the house be at a point right beside the circuit breaker box, or is there an acceptable distance?

Quick question, my pump says it 12 amps. Can i just use a 15amps breaker instead of 20 amps?

My pump came with one already attached.

Well done; actually its the 2010 New York State Residential Code (current Code) which references the 2008 National Electric Code (NEC), NY State has still not advanced to the current 2014 NEC, the pump timer is a requirement of the NY State Energy Code. New York State doesn't do anything easy and believe it or not has no state wide requirement for Electrical Licensing. Electrical inspections are done by 3rd party electrical inspectors who for the most part were never electricians, never held a license or went through any electrical apprenticeship program.

Outstanding video...sorry if I missed this in the video or comments, what size conduit? 1 1/2?

I used solid boxes with female connections built in. The wire was stranded AWG12 THHN. Your building code will dictate what you can use.

what if your pool is resin? do you still need to connect at four places? Right now its only connected to the seam. Thanks

What size wire is the single strand ran from timer to pump

Nice video, on your pump did you just change the plug or the entire cord ?

Pain in the butt yet well worth it to save lives. Having someone killed while using your pool would leave more than a pain in your butt.

do you have to ground the wires to a grounding rod?

OK I'm an Idiot that is not the switch? It's just the cover to go onto the switch? I did a google search and found that cover but it says nothing about a switch just that it's a cover so what's behind it? I have the rest of it down pat no issue just that has me puzzled. Thanks for replying back so fast. , Todd

I'll have to look up the exact name. Purchased mine from City Electric in their Syracuse, NY branch. It may be available online (cityelectricweb).

they did not require an electrician to install the wires in order to get it inspected?

You bonded to a resin upright?

How much? $$$$ did it cost?

Nice job all in all. But a gfi breaker is not $60. Probably $20 more than your dead front. That $20 would have been the best money you spent on that entire installation. Breaker is far superior protection and easier for monthly testing.

Conduit needs to be piped directly to the panel

The idea about digging the copper in the ground doesn't make sense as a code as its not a ground but a bond - it shouldn't matter if you dig it in the ground or cover it with rocks

Not breaking balls because I know the deal. Some of the code makes no sense like bonding a window frame if it’s within 5ft of the pool. A window frame has zero potential why would you introduce it into the electrical system. But that’s stuff for another day. NEC code says you can’t use sheet metal screws to attach the lugs. I know I know but it’s in art 250 As an electrical contractor Ive been pulling my hair out for 35 yrs trying to plz the NEC. Which adds new twists and turns every year. You seem like a good guy you can use a thread lock on those sheet metal screws to keep them tight and replace them every couple of years. Bonding the frame is important.

Did I see 14 awg wire on a 20 amp breaker😲🤦

No water bonding , no grounding . . . .nothing just the power to the pump motor .

What you shared was not enough just talking about what you did was not enough you had a video camera, the time to video and make clear wad when the actual work was being done not after eveything was done.