You could eliminate the cumulative error by using your LR32 rail to cut a row of indexing holes along the length of your table.

Keeping everything in alignment is a challenge. It's one of the reasons I don't use one of those 32mm shelf pin jig. You lay them down several times and you get hole drift. But for you cheep guys, go to the big box stores and buy a 8' length of pre drilled melamine covered MDF bookcase / small cabinet board for about $25. It's pre-drilled with 32mm spacing, 37mm CL in from the front or back with 5mm shelf pin holes. The hole spacing from the top, in Festool talk, is 32mm up and out, so you can cut it to 16mm up and out, if you want. That's how I built my first 32mm rail. I now have a Festool 1400mm LR32 rail, with their router sled. I built an adapter for my Porter Cable 890 plunge router base. The adapter stays on the base, and then i use the Festool centering mandrel when I set up for drilling 5mm or 20mm holes. I keep the HD board around to check alignments every now and then of for making specialty jigs like Ron is showing. Just remember when boring your hole in your top, make sure your rail is snug and square to your reference edge. Don't ask me how I know that one. Having a TSO 90 degree guide helps as well.

I had a cabinet shop cut a piece of 12mm, 2'x3' with the 96mm layout on their cnc for $50. Then I just laid it on top of my bench, clamped it, and drilled through the cnc holes. Easy peasy.

Festool advertising on Ron's videos, priceless.

Yes it must be right.. all of it..

Maybe I'll wait for the jig to make this jig! 😮

How about doing some layout lines and bore the first set of holes in the center and then work left and right from there like the instructions for the Parf guide to cut your "accumulative error" in half?

TSO has released an LR 32 Guide Plate Adapter Kit for Dewalt Compact Routers that if I'm not mistaken will allow owners of DCW600 or DCW611 with DNP612 plunge base and an 8mm collet to use this Jig.

Hi Ron look at 10 minute workshop channel how to make mft with lr32. Make sure you watch the very end, where ends up with jig. Let's you make mft top in 7 mins.

Yeah, I don't think I can pull this off, beginners better stick with Mk II Parf Guide. I should still build this jig just to get better with precision. I took welding in school, now I realize I'd been better served taking Carpentry, given all I'm about to be responsible for.

Perfect timing! I just sold my festool mft table. I’m getting ready to build an mft slab and then a smart bench! I can’t think of a scenario where I would need to perfectly match any thing else. Question: If you’re not trying to match up to any existing mft’s but want to build off your first one, if you’re holes drift a couple mm over say 6’ as long as you use the same starting jig everything will always line up, correct? This is brilliant! Thank you so much for all of your innovations.

Track is 1400mm long, piece 7 is 1536 mm long. How do you ensure holes are correctly spaced the extra length? How are you accurately keeping the row of holes 20 mm centered from edge?

I think you need to do a video about your workout routine and diet (the Concord Carpenter/Toolbox Buzz guy did a brief one). Is it just genetics or do you put as much thought into your workouts as your benches and jigs? I only ask because I have an African American friend who started working for me while he was wrestling in college. He also looks like a superhero but he told me he never worked out-ever. He said it was pure genetics which I found hard to believe, but that's what he has always maintained.

Thank you! Which router bit do you recoomend for this?

Does this work with the Bosch FSN OFA 32 as well?

Good theory but a lot of room for measurement error as you say. Peter Millard has a method that only requires you to get two edges of the board parallel (the board can be squared up afterwards) and then use the LR32 rail along each side to set up datum holes for dogs to align the LR32 rail at 90˚ so that there is no measurement error as you progress along the length of the MFT top as the spacing has already been set by the LR32 rail. Simple and ingenious and beats the Part system in my view as the accuracy is set by the LR32 rail.The only drawback, if you can call it that, is that the board has to be oversize to start with (although you could attache temporary "wings" for the first set of datum holes and remove them afterwards). Link here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ecV6YLN817vTYY0.html

How about using the parf system to make the two rows of 32mm-from-the-edge (just with the pilot holes), and then using those and the LR32 rail to make all the interior holes by indexing off the two rows of pilot holes on the edge?

If I were doing this more than once, I’d make 96mm gauge blocks to make the setup easier.

Hey Ron, I have a suggestion. Use the LR32 first to space the rows of holes by making a line of holes down the length of the plywood with a 2 second line of holes or a dado line without moving the track. Then use your jig (altered jig) to make the row of holes using the double line of holes or dado and line of holes to align the spacing and ensure those rows are parallel to each other. The edges of the plywood may not be perpendicular/parallel and need to be trimmed at the end. 1. Clamp the LR32 to the plywood. 2. Route the line of holes down the length of the plywood on the edge. 3. Without moving the LR32 dado a reference edge with a track saw or router or make a second line of holes down the length of the plywood. 4. Align your jig either using the dado or the two lines of holes to ensure the rows are parallel. 5. Make the row of holes and then move to the next row of holes using the edge line/dado for proper spacing. 6. Trim off the edge line of holes and dado / two lines of holes. The two edge lines of holes or the line of holes and dado will be parallel to each other because clamped the LR32 was never moved it. Referencing those two lines should ensure the rows are parallel while giving you the precise spacing. The amount of holes you make would be constrained by the length of LR32 you have. Hope this helps.

Dear Ron, I really love your videos, your work ethic, and your ingenuity, BUT... you've grossly over thought this process and over engineered this jig- if anyone is an authority on overthinking the crap out of stuff, it's gotta be me 😂. There is a way simpler method to doing this with the LR32 with much less chance of error due to inaccuracies of the jig. I believe I made my jig in less than an hour. Got the inspiration from Peter Millard. In this way, there is zero chance for exponential error. Don't mean to imply that your jig isn't accurate, but it can be done in a simpler fashion with a dead on accurate result.

I built my table top using my lr32 just did it a little different than you.