I think the fact that you let everyone know that you failed multiple times is very important for those first starting out. Too many people get discouraged after watching other videos that make it seem easy and as if they get the perfect product every time or after the first try. So thanks for being completely transparent about that.

I worked CF composites at Koenigsegg, and the strategy that ended up working was kind of close to how we worked. The difference is that we never use sleeves for anything, but instead regular 240gr weave, but pre-preg. The reason your weave ended up wavy and inconsistent is because your weave wasn't cut out for the dimensions of the pipe. My suggestion is to buy 240gr pre-preg CF weaves. You can store rolls of them pretty much indefinitely in a freezer. Take your CAD drawings of your molds, "unfold" them onto a 2D plane, and cut the shapes into your CF weave + like 1cm in each direction. Then just laminate the mold with your CF weave, and use a box cutter to just cut off the excess along the edge of the mold. The pre-preg makes your CF weave kind of stiff, so it's easy to cut through it without the weave bunching up. Apply 2 more layers but leave the overlap on one of the molds; when you connect the two molds, take the overlap and make that the connection point to the CF on the opposite mold. And then just connect the two molds the same way you did, with the vacuum tube running down the middle, the breather, and all that. With the pre-preg you also won't need to do any treatment, like polishing etc. It all comes out looking good enough to be inside an engine bay. All you gotta do is cut off those excess strands of epoxy that seeps out the cracks of the mold with a box cutter.

You know Mr. Eco-LAP is serious when he puts on his trusty rubber gloves

Always put positioning pins & holes on your mould sections.

You could have wetted the carbon, wetted the inside of the mold, clamped the molds and then inflated internal bags, no need for vacuum bag on outside. Sometimes it's easier this way. Props for showing the process and failures. Nice work.

You should consider using dowels as alignment pins next time you make a mold. You could probably program your printer to do it for you, or just add them after the fact. But it would really help in ensuring alignment of the two sides is proper.

I would recommend watching a couple videos on how CF bike frames are made. Typically they use a bladder to blow up the inside of the tube, then vacuum the outside. And, as others have said, they use precut pieces of prepreg. It's fun to do it your way sometimes, but when you want the job done, check what others in the industry are doing. Did you do any pressure testing on the pipes? What about the mounting tabs?

Amazing that you made those in under 17 minutes. It would have taken me at least twice as long.

i tried making an intake pipe for a friend a while back, was super messy but somehow got it to work, it was far from perfect, but i wasn't aiming for perfection. Props to you for trying until its perfect, very inspiring as always!

Glad you got it figured out, but yeah, these are typically done with build-up layers. The outside layer adjacent to the mold face is the 'pretty' layer and done as one piece cut to shape, then subsequent layers reinforced for strength flange into the other half (the overlap) while the 2nd half fits inside the first at the seam. Too many people get stuck on the epoxy thinking that it's the component that gives a part strength, when its primary job is to essentially lock the carbon in place for shape. There's a lot of tricks you can use for other considerations specific for its working environment that also could also enable its use for downpipes, but there isn't an 'off the shelf' resin specifically for that due to epoxy's low heat tolerance. I specialize in extreme heat use and it took me several years to formulate one that can withstand exceptionally high heat (currently exploring in the 5600*F and above neighborhood) but in that usage, you most certainly won't have a 'show level' esthetic part anymore. In the future, I would print your parts as you intend them to look and function, then build your molds in fiberglass with generous flanges, use your tool coat for the inside and progressively sand up to 2000 grit for a perfect surface finish. Prepreg isn't strictly necessary for one-offs, but if you were to be doing this in a production use, you will end up with a stronger part for optimum carbon/resin ratio and less overall waste. But then again, you'd also need all the support equipment for pre-preg and not be doing this on the internet.😁

i love the fact that you showed you failed for months! You're the reason i started making carbon parts for my car and trying different ways of doing it as well. Keep up the amazing work

Massive level of effort and learning for 2 parts. Really glad you showed the time and effort it takes to make this sort of stuff (which is why they are SOOOO expensive to buy.) Great to also see that you persisted and didnt give up.

Absolute mad lad. Such a great video, showing every bit of the build process. Awesome work!

Was expecting the "Do Not Make" to be them splitting along the seams at 2bar at the end. Good job working your way through this complex layup

My favorite part of watching your videos is knowing that these parts go on your M4! I'm ready to take my entire M3 apart and do the same. Great job overcoming a clearly difficult piece, it turned out very nice.

My new favourite DIY channel ... Quick, to the point with a dabble of comedic genius. Perfect

Dude, the amount of effort you put into them, hats off to you.

Your level of persistence is inspiring to say the least! 99% of people would've given up after the first attempt had failed... But you kept going which is insane (in a good way). And I still can't believe you do all of your work directly on your laminate floor. You should build a small workbench since you do so much of this stuff as it can't be that comfortable working on the floor! Anyway, always fun to see a new video from you regardless of the project and result.

Love the effort! You put a ton of work into something that most will never see under the hood. I felt that way when I put anodized CAC pipes on my Superduty.

I started doing carbon fiber work, and I have two words for you: wet sand. Even at 120 grit it works super well! Zero dust, and the sandpaper lasts way longer. You don't even need to wear a mask or gloves. I also found 320 grit works the best for leveling the surface, without worrying about sanding too deep.

Vert nice! If you can't use prepreg's to ensure a nice glossy finish (the finish of your mould determines that) you can apply a layer of 2k clearcoat and wait for it to just "flash-off" proir to moulding. You get a great finish after just a little bit if polishing.

For a part like that, since you were using two layers anyways, I think I would have done a single layer in each half as seperate halves, then assembled them and spiral wrapped it to bind it all together with the second layer.

I love that part with the windows error sound along with the p-dog screaming, so fitting especially when things don't go the way we would like. Great stuff, enjoyed watching your video. Thank you : )

Dam good job. Thanks for sticking with it I make parts as well and it is so frustrating whenever it keeps failing over and over.

amazing! following your tutorials, i repaired my cracked front lip for my m6. i'm looking to refinish my mirror caps and eventuri intakes now :). can you pls lmk where i can get the same or similar resin, hardener and clear that you use in the US? are there certain characteristics in a good resin & hardener that that we should look for? thanks!

Its armchair quarterbacking but any tube made really needs to be over a mandrel and if they have any curves they always start with a silicone bladder. They look great. Your molds are top notch for being 3D printed. It was far more trouble than I would have gone through when I would have just made a split mold and put a bladder in it.

Amazing work! Your perseverance and patience is incredible. Tenacious!

Amazing. I don't know why yt recommended this but I love the editing and the fact that all the failures were shared. I had no idea carbon fibres were sold in sleeves either!

pretty cool. i specialized in carbon fabrication for about 10 years. just wondering why you didnt vent the bladders to atmosphere or pressurize them after the molds were under vacuum? at least i didnt see that in the vid, but they turned out really nice in the end regardless. well done mate!

Beautiful work as always! I also got a CR scan and have been using it to scan a K24 to design my own ITBs. Your change of moulding techniques was very interesting! Have you tried layering carbon fiber over a water soluble 3D printing support material and then melting it after setting with vacuum? I've always meant to try that!

매번 챙겨보고 있는 구독자입니다! 퀄리티 높은 영상 감사합니다

갬성마력 대폭상승! 이번에도 진짜 많은 시행착오와 시간이 들어가셨네여ㅜㅜ

구독하며 늘 챙겨보는 채널인데 이번작업 난이도는 정말 헬중에 헬 그자체네요,,,대단하세요!!!!

When I saw the bin getting full from failed parts, I couldn't stop laughing hysterically. This was literally my 4 month period trying to deliver consistent parts for a customer. Only those who have failed can understand the frustration and pain. But in the end, this is a distant memory, which when reminded in the future, is gonna be amusing. Believe me. Good luck on your job!

Bro great content. Ive worked with carbon fiber and can attest to the fact that it is very difficult to work with. I love how you show your whole process and struggles

I love the work! The failures are rare depicted, thank you for showing that and for crushing your goals!!!!

Superb video! I'm just wondering something, would it work if you use the carbon sleeves with the vaccum bag inside of them and you try to put air (more pressure than normal atmosphere pressure) in them to push the carbon sleeves to the walls of your mold ? Maybe you've tried it already though.

Great work! wich software do you use for reverse engineering after the 3d scanning ??

This is some really good stuff. You've got me watching and thinking about how I might approach my own projects.

너무 오랫만에 올려주셨네요~~👍👍👍👍👍

Hey amazing video, i was wondering instead of vaccum pressuring the moulds, would it been possible if you had tightly secured the two halfs of the mould and filled air in those transparent pipes that you filled inside the carbon fiber pipes? I am not a professional at this or never tried doing this kind of stuff before but all this time i was thinking of this idea to fill air in those pipes. Would this idea have worked?

Way to keep at it! If you want sleeves to inflate inside a bag you have to run the ends outside of the bag and remove the end. For the vacuum to expand the poly sleeve it needs atmosphere on the outside. By running the poly sleeve outside the vacuum bag you get atmosphere inside the sleeves working against the vacuum on the inside of the bag. You will get expansion to the mold or the poly sleeve will burst if too small a diameter. (Can't run sleeve outside the mold inside the bag) Has to pass through the outside bag at the mouth of the mold. otherwise the exposed part will pop.

Good effort! I admire your persistence and I'm impressed with the results. Good job!

Very nice, took an awful lot of work but you got there in the end. definitely worth the effort, well done 👍

You got me worried in the beginning when you used paper and marker instead of the 3d scanner, which I also bought when you showcased it.😅 I am still wondering why the sleeves did not work. I thought it should be perfectly fine if you do sort of a doughnut shape bag where "hole" goes through the sleeve, so air can expand there.

처음 방법이 맞긴 합니다만, 레진량이 많으셨고 튜브쪽 압력이 부족한게 문제였을 겁니다. 파이프류 좌우 붙이는 형태는..신뢰성 문제로 잘 안하는데ㅠ 진공펌프 하나 장만하세요!

In the beginning I was all set to ask if you had any interest in making sets for the Audi B5 S4, C5 A6/Allroad owners with 2.7L TT’s and I’d organize a bulk buy but….. wow. Good work!

you are alive! i really thought something happened to you for not uploading any videos for so long glad to see you are ok keep up the great work

와....진짜 이런거 판매하셔야하는거 아닙니까.. 구형타는 오너입장에서 이제 정품카본은 구할수가 없어서 하고싶네요

Hey In your multiple trys, did you try to inflate the inner vaccum plastic tube so it would help the sleeve form its shape? Thanks

fantastic job there man, 100% worth the wait !!😆

Loved the video and effort. From what I've done in the past. These tubes are ideal for pre preg which you basically made yourself which is awesome. Easy composites Ltd has some great video doing complex tubes like this. Got me through college composites making.

love it! can't wait for the next one!

Awesome work, with a nice finish. One small idea (unsure if you did it or not) is to sand and polish the interior of the pipes for reduced drag. Mind you give it 15,000km they will be filled with various gunk but it could add a minor increase in air flow

포기 안하고 끝까지 만드셨다는게 본인 차를 얼마나 아끼는지 알 수 있었네요!! 차도 멋져요!!👍👍👍🔥🔥🔥🔥

Top notch work man, oh and your persistence is also level 100.

After you soak your carbon in resin place it between 2 peace’s of plastic and use a dough roller to squeeze out the excess resin. DYI prepreg. It also works great with a lay up. Place all the wetted bull material between clear plastic. Roll the excess out. Place template on top and out line with a sharpie. Cut through it all with a knife. Peal one side and apply. That’s how I do it at the race track in a time crunch between rounds.

Amazing job mate! May I ask what powertrain these were made for? What vehicle?

Ive never worked with any carbon fiber but would it not be a good idea to either partially or fully harder the two halfves and then wrap another carbon sleave around the 2 halves to then cure fully ? I just think that since it would give at lease one consistent layer all the way around ?

Great Video as each of your Videos 👌🏻 for my understanding - does each tube that was inserted form one half of the tube or does the tube form the entire tube due to the vacuum?

hey love the video i have a question did u throw away the failed attempted parts or did u saved to used some how? that lead me to the next question can u recycle carbon fiber parts some how ?

I am just wondering if we print a thin hollow core and wrap it from outside will be easier and nicer. just asking, i've never made and cf parts before.

I have build intake runners myself and I know your pain. I have made two different sets for an isuzu and a vw pickup truck. I enden up using the method you employed as well - laying up both sides and then pressing them together with a fiber buttjoint. The idea of using a sleeve is appealing and there probably is a way to get it to produce good results. I have however, not found it yet. The obvious downside to this method is that there is a defined breaking edge as no fibers go all the way around the part. I have developed a solution to this issue, but I haven't used it yet so I can't tell you if it works.

Great Video, but I have a question. If I see this correct, the 2 sides of a pipe are not connected by fibres, only by matrix (resin), because you used 2 pieces for the mold, right? Are you not concerned if that withstands the pressure inside the pipe?

Yo no sabía que se puede hacer piezas de fibra de carbono de forma casera y éste vídeo me hizo mi cabeza 🤯 qué excelente video

I love the way you make your videos bro, i mean, your sence of humor, is almost from hevens. thanks, cheers from Mexico city. I love you

Don’t know why but the thumbs up at the end made the whole video for me. Almost like I could here you screaming “YEEESSS” internally lol. Congrats man on a job well done.

Exelente trabajo Gracias

What is the function called in fusion at 1:39 where you make circles around the scan?

ECO-LAP Studio has now gone next level. I love it!

Is it possible to use the lidar camera on the iPhone 14 to 3d scan that pipe instead of buying a 3d scanner?

차리뷰영상도 시간 되시면 만들어주세요!! 특히 엔진룸이 너무 멋져요

Quick question since Ive never tried to make anything out of carbon fiber. Can you make a mold of the original pipe, fill that mold with plaster, then make your tube by wrapping the carbon fiber around the plaster mold? Kinda like making a cast item.

Hi you very nice videos. i am want to buy a setup just like you which creality 3d printer and 3d scanner are you using ? keep going making these awesome diy videos

They look good. How did you know how much material to use so they would hold pressure though?

오븐을 꼭 사용해야 하나요? 어떤 오븐을 써야 해요? 뭘 확인하고 익었는지 판단해요?

대단하십니다! 궁금한게 검은색 에폭시접착제는 제품명이 먼가요?ㅎ

Still forgetting too pat the bear on the wipes 🙄😂 great commitment and amazing result!! 👏👏👏👏

I knew you were into something 😂. Amazing job like always!

My favorite part was the crumpling of paper in the beginning. The failure is the unseen part of design work

I work for Motorieep I give you our secret technique : use PVA 3d filament, lay the carbon on the printed part, put the part in water. PVA filament disolves, then you get the carbon fiber part 5min later. Of course you need to accurately determine the offset!

This is wild. I spent months on the same project and had the exact same failures.. I've got a box of about 10 sets of failed carbon charge pipes. It might be time to revisit the project and see if I can get it right.

im really apreciated the way how you show everyone know what make you failed many time

Exelente trabajo saludos desde chile..!!!

Great video. Maybe you could try using water soluble filament to print out the core of the pipe, lay the carbon sleeve on it and dissolve the core in the water after it’s finished?

Hi, what high temp clear coat are you using? I’d like to use it on my project.

와.. 이형님 뭐죠..? 대단하십니다.

Here are some things that may help people wanting to try this themselves 1: This is not a structural part, its cosmetic. There is no reason to vacuum this. Part of why the first try failed was that the resin use was WAY to conservative. True, extra resin is not going to make the part any stronger (in any production method) but the set up used is what we use for "draw through" resin production. With more resin and then INFLATING the tubes with the molds held tightly together the part would have turned out By drawing resin from a vat, through the work and into a vacuum pot on the other side and then closing the vacuum, complete saturation is assured. This requires sanding and clear coating after the fact but its structurally perfect and even across the piece 2: Initially I thought they were going to lay sheets on each half, then vacuum them and then adhere them together after cutting off the "flange" You can do this and if measured correctly make it surprisingly difficult to see the seams 3: Any quick curing expanding 2 part agent such as closed cell phone could be used inside the tube placed in the carbon fiber tube could be used. This would require volume calculations. Or you could just be a really smart dumb caveman and pack it with moist sand Once again this completely negates the need to use any vacuums or bags. Cover both sides of the mold in resin. Super saturate the CF tubing with the vacuum tube in it with one side tied off. Vacuum tube should be longer than your mold. Place them in the mold and then start filling the vacuum tube with sand. Pack and sit. You would have to work quickly to do this and could only do one at a time with the average 10 min work time. Alternately you could use pre-preg for this step giving you plenty of time to set up before heating to cure A high quality clear coat just shy of being thinned property would have saved the step of the second brushed on layer of epoxy Polishing with a dremel is crazy. Use the largest, flattest piece of sandpaper your work will allow with a pad or in a pinch a moderately fluffy towel behind it. There is NO way to get a consistent flat sand out of a tiny cylinder spinning at thousands of rotations per min that you are moving by hand making decisions on pressure, dwell and angle by hand. A piece like this will allow a small random orbital or palm sander. This "UNleveled the surface" GUARANTEED. Using a wet wipe is risky. You would THINK that there was no way that a contaminant would exist after using alcohol to clean it right? I've had to sand work back down because there was a reaction between one thing or another and learned NEVER to risk it. Do not introduce anything not designed specifically for composites/painting to your process When you paint, especially with a rattle can... Begin your spray OFF your work, move across your work and stop spraying when you are off your work again. A good self leveling epoxy clear will allow you to not be perfect, but starting the spray on the work and doing short bursts on and off is asking for runs or at least inconsistent patches you are going to have to wet sand/buff off Came out nice though

amazing video. can you show how you affixed the bottom to the turbo inlets?

Nice job. I have 2 questions. 1) 10:38 You left a margin of approximately 4-5 mm in the canvases on both halves of the mold. And when you pressed these halves to each other, in my opinion, these protruding edges should have bent in a chaotic shape along the entire border of the joint (in particular, considering that the canvases are crimped from the outside with a mold, then, in my opinion, they should have bent inward of the pipe). But 13:07 when you pulled them out, along this joint line only excess epoxy resin formed in the form of a white crust (it seemed so to me), but for some reason both halves of the canvas lay Perfectly on top of each other, as if there was a clean overlap. How did it happen ? Is it possible to control this ? 2) 10:57 What functions does this green ribbon perform ?

Could have done the first method if you passed the plastic that went inside the sleeves to the outside. Atmospheric pressure would have inflated the plastic sock and filled the mold. However I loved the alternate work around you did looks awesome

I'm curious to know how much pressure they can hold. they look amazing but are they as strong as traditional metal/ aluminum?

You created your own prepreg material and did not need an oven to cure. Clever!

loved the vid , but on your first attempts, i would of tried to pressurize the inner part of the pipes , but great result in the end the look 100% mint

Wow, the way you started out looked so promising, who would have thought... Perseverance, looks like your good at it 👍👍🤙

우와 정말 의뢰하나 드리고싶을정도로 멋지시네요

Great work and video! I don't have so much technical patience to be honest! But this is giving me ideas!!! I have taken a look at other methods though and I think maybe a forged carbon fiber method might have been a bit easier to get it right at the first time... But i might be wrong, you would need 3 part molding though for that to make the inside of the tube as well. It would also be stronger as a result. So you would basically need the 2 part mold for the external part of the tube but also an internal tube for the internal part. A potential drawback is alignment and also that more materials would be needed. Btw i loved the way you connected the 3d printed parts to make the molds :D

Interesting project. I found 'Easy Composites' pre-packaged parts kit and YT tutorial work very well, especially the pre-preg for cylindrical parts . Of course you could just get a CF extruder for your printer and some CF/nylon filament but with those complex curves, layout and supports would be a headache/ fun to experiment with. At any rate, what you're doing here is better than spending 16 hrs a day playing video games, so keep at it. BIG THUMBS UP!

Fantastic result.

for the carbon sleeves, i think id try to use vacuum for the outside and compressed air in the inner tubes.