You are very welcome!

Glad it was helpful!

Thank You!

You are welcome, I am glad my videos help you with your residential electrical education!

Your Welcome, Glad it was helpful!

You're welcome Justin!

Thank You for viewing!

Thank You JJ!

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Your Welcome Allen!

It would be best to ask this question using my website question form and include a photo of the pedestal panel, this way I can provide more resources than I can here. Go to ask-the-electrician.com where you will find the details for asking your question. Thank you!

Great - Thanks!

What happened? make sure the url you are using is correct: ask-the-electrician.com Hope to see you there.

Typically the Black wire is connected to one terminal of the 2-pole breaker, and the Red wire is connected to the other terminal of the 2-p;ole breaker, the White neutral wire is connected to the Neutral terminal bar, and the Bare or Green wire is connected to the Ground terminal bar.

Thank you - I am making more videos for you!

As with any circuit, the ground wire is the most important wire, and it should be terminated properly. If the outlet box is metal, then the ground wire should be bonded to the box by using a ground screw, or when the outlet has a built in bonding strap to the frame of the outlet. In the case of a dryer, we have old 240volt dryers that do not require a neutral, and we have new 120/240volt dryers that do require a neutral. So we always use the ground wire. But in some cases depending on the age of the dryer, the neutral may not be used. In the case where the dryer circuit is fed from the main service panel, both the ground and the neutral are bonded together.

You can still use the 6/2 with a 30 amp breaker.

If the walls are still open it would be best to replace the cable. It is not illegal to oversize the wire, however it will be much harder to makeup the dryer outlet with the larger wire.

My question to you is where are you getting the 4th wire from? If the dryer requires 4 wires then there has to be 4 wires from the circuit. If the dryer installation manual states that the neutral or ground may be shared then the dryer would be allowing a 3wire cord and outlet, otherwise the dryer is requiring a separate ground wire and a separate neutral wire. Please check the installation manual and the electrical specifications.

@@AskTheElectrician Firstly, thank you for the response. To answer your question, there are the two hots, black and red and then a green in the middle where a white neutral usually is. The green goes from that middle spot on the terminal all the way to the ground screw outside the dryer. So that is basically my four wires. I have looked at online manuals and one manual says that wire is green with a yellow stripe. It is not though. When I have looked up the dryer parts on parts websites, they have that middle wire being white, a black, red and then a green and white together. When looking on ebay for exact replacement parts I found one that has my same exact set up, red, black, green. Hope that helps explain my dryer situation. For reference it is a maytag mde2400ayw.

Hi Jose, Thanks for viewing the video and your comments. You are correct, a newer dryer will require a 4-wire cord and 4 prong outlet, so it is great that the existing circuit wiring has all 4 wires as needed, two hots, a neutral, and a ground wire.. The newer dryers now require a separate insulated neutral wire because some of the controls require 120volts. As with any electrical circuit, a ground is required, however the old electric dryers that did not have a neutral wire were a basic 240volt circuit, but the new dryers that require a neutral wire are 120/240volt because the circuit provides both 120volt (one of the hots with the neutral) and 240volt provided with the two hots. However the older 240volt circuits will test as 120volts when testing each line to ground, but we know that a ground wire cannot be used as a current carrying conductor, therefore the newer electric dryers require a insulated neutral wire.

4 prong has a ground and 3 prong doesn't. That's the difference. The ground protects the hot from a short. If the hot is shorting on metal the ground will trip the breaker and keep it tripped until hot wire short is fixed. Never use a ground as or with a neutral or electricity will be energized on the grounds when power is being used on that circuit. In a main breaker box panel that has the main shutoff breaker in the panel the neutrals and grounds are bonded with the green bonding screw.

You would need to buy a new all electric dryer. Maybe you can swap your gas dryer with someone who has an electric dryer they don't want? Enjoy your new dryer!

Make sure that the 240volt dryer outlet has full power as required for the Tesla power adapter. It is best to have a dedicated power source rated for the specific EV Charger rather than using an power adapter.

No.

The voltage does not step down from 240 to 120 - if you have an all electric dryer. The requirement for a separate neutral and ground will be described in the installation manual for our specific dryer.

@@AskTheElectrician thanks! Got it. Neutral was added for safety.

A range cord should not be used for a dryer. It would be best to change the outlet and cord as it is typically done for a dryer.

No - the voltage is wrong, and the size of a circuit breaker cannot be increased.

Thanks for Watching!

Make sure the wiring for the circuit and cord are all correct. Yes - obstructions anywhere within the dryer vent process can cause the high temperature sensors to turn the heat off thereby preventing the clothes from drying.

@@AskTheElectrician Ughhhhhh. I’m just a woman, I have no clue how to check that.

Could be - so check the wiring very carefully and verify that it is correct.

It sounds like you will be upgrading the home electrical system, so you may consider starting with a new panel, and then the specific circuits as per code including a new dedicated circuit for the dryer.

Yes 10/3 is best to install if a new dryer circuit is being installed. The typical cable is Type-NM 10/3 w/G - it has an Orange jacket, copper conductors of course.

@@AskTheElectrician ok also on the outlet end there are 3 connections 2 hots and 1 neutral what should I do with the ground should I connect it with the netural or don't connect it at all

@@aaronwilliams1473 You should change the cord if 3 wire and dryer shows wiring for both to 4 wire cord. Dryers have been 4 wire since 1990’s but capable for 3 wire in older houses.

Hi Margie, Thanks for the info, here is the link, and I have placed it at the top of the websites as well. How to Avoid Electrical Mistakes: FREE Electrical Tips Newsletter and eBook ask-the-electrician.com/freeelectricalnewslettersubscription.html Enjoy! Dave

The Link to get the Free Electrical Newsletter and eBook: ask-the-electrician.com/freeelectricalnewslettersubscription.html

The following articles may help you with this problem: ask-the-electrician.com/causes-of-inconsistent-voltage-on-a-circuit/troubleshooting/ ask-the-electrician.com/electrical-voltage-problems-and-solutions/troubleshooting/

If the adapter is rated for 30amps, and the dryer requires a 3wire cord then the adapter should work fine. Enjoy Your Dryer!

@@AskTheElectrician Thanks for confirming my understanding what I had, and could do.

@@ricanrod8258 You should buy a 4 wire cord and install it on the dryer if it has the neutral ground jumper if there is a wiring schematic on the back showing both ways. Not some adapter that is for dryers from the 1980’s.

Cost depends on the home, access to where the wiring needs to be installed from panel to dryer, it is basically a Time and Material charge with the rates relative to the location.

Best to use a Dryer Cord.

Typically it would be a time and material project and the cost would depend on your location and the proficiency of the qualified individual or electrician.

Look up the motor information, get the make and model and search for a wiring diagram online. Make sure to look on the backside of the junction box cover plate, or the nameplate of the motor, the wiring diagram is typically provided at these locations.

@@AskTheElectrician so I couldn't find wiring diagram online for the specific model. I wonder if it's because it's a 3 phase compressor.. only markings I see on the compressor is manufacturing markings

It is best to use #10 copper wire for a 30amp dryer circuit. Aluminum wire may be used for larger circuits and as panel feeders when it is installed correctly.

Great Question, however the range will require a dedicated circuit, so be sure to have the new circuit sized as specified by the manual.

@@AskTheElectrician thanks for the response

Possibly a bad or loose connection. Make sure the wiring configuration is correct as well.

You can only use a 3-wire cord if the dryer manufacturers manual states that you can, otherwise it will require a 4-wire cord.

@@AskTheElectrician I had a closer look and my dryer has 2 green screws with 2 straps to the metal.How should I proceed? Just leave them as is ? Thank you !

What does the owners manual say? Typically the electrical connections are described for specific equipment, because not all equipment is identical.

@@AskTheElectrician The two options are printed on the back of the drier 3 or 4 prong . How can I send you a pic of it ?

By going to my website as shown at my KZfaq Channel info - look for the links, you can submit a question and attach a photo - This is available to anyone. The link will be much the same as my KZfaq channel name as seen here. Hope to see you there.

A ground wire is not considered a current carrying conductor, this is why most ground wires are not insulated with Type-NM Cables, and the same is true with most main service ground wires, except where an insulated ground wire is required for a specific application.

Yes - The NEC code now has expanded the use of GFCI protection for dryers. However check with your local building department to see if they have adopted the code change and requirement. Not all states adopt NEC code updates.

No - it's just the way we do it.

@@AskTheElectrician establishing the path back to the source before the connection of hots is a safe practice even though they should not be working with anything hot. That could be a reason past, it's just the way we do it.

If the white wire is not needed then just cap it off with a wire nut.

We are considering apps - possibly in the near future.

What does the Installation Manual state as far as the Required Electrical Circuit for your Specific Stove? Does your stove require a dedicated Neutral Wire? If so then that is why it is not working right, and a new circuit may be required which includes 3wires and a ground wire - 4 wires in all.

The cost to install always depends on the specific location and the available access to install the parts.

Thanks for the suggestion!

I know - it can be difficult. But the one way to know for sure is that I look at the existing cable that provides the circuit, and then verify the panel it comes from, and then check the connections. And to make it more interesting, if the circuit is fed from the Main Panel, then the grounds and the Neutrals are bonded together. The big difference with the cable is if the wire being used as the ground is insulated or not, because the neutral wire is treated as a current carrying conductor, but a ground wire is not, therefore the ground wire is often not insulated. So - when an electric dryer installation manual states that a Neutral Wire and a Ground wire (4-wires total) are required then this is what the dryer circuit will need. I hope this helps you!

It all depends on the specific dryer that you have and what it requires.

I think you're right because I'm installing a stackable dryer at my daughter's house, 3 prongs and after watching some videos I put both hot and ground in the wall socket and turned on the machine to do some tests and then I noticed that while the machine was washing the clothes I measured the amperages and the ground was giving 6 amps and in a hot giving 6 amps and another hot was giving zero! and when the machine was drying the clothes I measured again and a hot was giving 21 amps and another hot 18 amps and the ground giving 4 amps! after seeing your explanations I will change and put the neutral in place of the ground and make the amperage measurements again! the reason I put the ground was that on the machine's identification plate (warning) it says that the machine has to be permanently connected to the ground wire but looking from behind the machine at the connection that comes out of the machine to the prong, the ground It's connected to neutral! I’m from Ohio and de machine is used ! Old 3 prongs !

@@nanbr7512 You definitely cannot use the bare ground wire as a neutral because it will end up causing a fire. Electricity is returned back through the neutral wire while the dryer is in use. The bare ground is only wrapped in paper in the romex. Only in a main service breaker box with the main shut off in the box on top the neutrals and grounds are bonded. They are not bonded in subpanels they are separated. Neutrals go to neutral bar grounds go to ground bar. You have to buy the ground bar kit and install on new subpanels like Square D Homeline. 10/3 is the correct wire when wiring any dryer.

@@kevinsimpson7687 You are right! I will buy 3/10 and remove the 2/10 and I will make the connection with HOT+ NEUTRAL + HOT and because it is 3/10 with GROUND then I will leave the GROUND disconnected in the wall outlet box and also disconnected in the breaker box!

Kevin, Your comment is Incorrect - here is why: You must understand that there are old dryers that are 240Volt, and there are new dryers that are 120/240 volt. An older 240volt dryer does not require a neutral wire, therefor a ground wire is attached to the Ground Terminal of the dryer outlet and the circuit will include 3-wires total, 2 hots and a ground. A newer 120/240volt dryer that requires a neutral wire will require a 4-prong dryer outlet which has a separate terminal for the neutral wire, and a separate terminal for the ground wire, and the required circuit will have 4-wires total, 2 hots, a neutral, and a ground. In a new home we typically install a 4wire dryer circuit, which will then give us the opportunity to accommodate either an old dryer or a new dryer, therefore the dryer receptacle and the actual wiring configuration will be Application Specific for the dryer. To make a blanket statement such as you have made is Incorrect because we have to provide the receptacle and the wiring configuration according to the Dryer that will be connected. This is why we refer to the Installation Manual and the Electrical Specifications for the Specific Dryer that will be used, and that is what we wire for. Side Note: In older homes that did not have a sub panel, the neutrals and grounds are bonded together at the main panel, and this is why we commonly find a 240volt 3wire dryer outlet - a neutral wire was not needed at that time because dryers were not made as 120/240volt. This applies to most equipment: If it is 240volt Only a neutral wire is not needed, but if it is 120/240volt then a neutral wire and a ground wire is needed. And as Nan Br has seen there is return voltage on a neutral wire because a 120volt device such a 120volt timer or a 120volt motor is being used, but the heating elements are 240volt - with no return voltage.

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Identifying the wire colors is very important.

Please visit ask-the-electrician.com/index.htm for detailed instructions about installing electrical circuits.

If a new dryer circuit will be installed it should be a 4wire circuit, which includes the ground wire. But when hooking up to the dryer we always look at the specific dryer and what the specifications for that dryer require, then we install the proper cord, and change the receptacle as needed. The cord and receptacle must match the dryer specification, however the wiring of a 4wire circuit may be adapted for the specific requirement.

@@AskTheElectrician How long since you have seen a dryer with specification of a 3 wire cord and plug only?

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Make sure the wiring for the circuit and cord are all correct. Yes - obstructions anywhere within the dryer vent process can cause the high temperature sensors to turn the heat off thereby preventing the clothes from drying.

@@AskTheElectrician Thank you though.