Congrats on your, so far, relatively successful efforts at following your ambition to develop your skills and knowledge of CNC machining techniques, and tooling, and how they apply to guitar and bass building. I've been playing guitar and bass for over 30 years, working on these beloved instruments since the day after I got my first guitar,. I've been building guitars and basses for about 25 years, though my current builds will be the first instruments built under the business my wife and I started recently. I graduated Phi Theta Kappa, Dean's List Highest Honors from a two year Machine Tool Technics degree program, and spent the next 12 years working my way up from CNC machine operator, through setups, supervising, programming, mold (mould 😉👉) making, tool, die, jig, and fixture, design and making, prototyping, advanced programming and process engineering technician, Manufacturing Process Engineer, to Manufacturing Process Engineering Department Manager, and then most recently adding to that Department Manager role the additional role of Production Department Manager (although they aren't paying me for both positions, that's for certain!),. I applaud you for pursuing your interests, and I will try to offer any little tips or insights, without going into a full-blown CNC course lecture. My wife and I are starting a KZfaq channel to accompany the website where our instruments, components, parts, merch, etc can be purchased, and I will be including a lot of information demonstrations tutorials lessons q&A whatever people seem to be interested in ranging from where I started, hand tools, very basic, very old, and tools, through power tools, manual machining, up through very cutting edge technology CNC machining I will also offer more in-depth and process optimization focused information through probably something like patreon. We I already looking into developing application specific tooling, specifically designed for use on domestic and exotic hardwoods, figured hardwoods, highly embraces and or highly oily hardwoods, salted and burled hard work, and in addition, fixturing, work holding, jigs, inspection equipment,, because I really want to take my passion for music and musical instruments as well as the passion I have for manufacturing process and she needing and combine it all in a way that I can help people pursue their dreams their goals and be able to build incredible, beautiful and strengths are ridiculous looking hung some shit that make them happy, because if I can help people, as I am helping to provide for my wife and my children and build something that's I can feel good that will take care of them in the future, when I will consider myself truly blessed and very very fortunate. I noticed a few things in your setup, and your tooling, new programming, and your setup, and all of these things are topics that over time, with experience, and with learning opportunities, like what you'll find through youtube, and you're going to learn more than you can even imagine at this point. I can offer you one quick tip because my wife is calling me too help her out but once you have your fretboard where you wanted positioned on the neck you can take a very sharp, very small blade and make an extremely small vertical scribe line on the edge of the fretboard and on the neck, in close proximity and lined up with each other, and do this on each end of the fretboard and you will know for certain whether or not it has moved as soon as you look at it. You can use a pencil, but we pencil, even the finest pencil, is not as precise as a very fine blade. Also, if you describe the line shallow it can easily be sanded out, probably easier than erasing and sanding some pencil marks, and don't ask me how I know that, but it's a lesson I learned well. There are also locations on the front board and on the next surfaces where you can plan ahead to leave a millimeter to of extra stock to do your scribe lines in and out of the way place on the ends of the fretboard as well as on the side of the fretboard to know if the front door inside the side or end to. Okay my wife is now giving me that look so I'm going to go help my wonderful wife and I look forward to seeing you next video. Keep up the good work keep learning,

looking good mr clothier!!! can't wait to see the rest of this!. The next has just uploaded, going to watch right now!

Look forward to more videos great 👍

Wow, I apologize for the extremely long-winded comments. It's so long I don't have time to read it tonight check for errors, as my phone has trouble translating English into English!

Looking Good!! Glad to see I am not the only one using a CNC. You are spot on about it not being any easier. I think the benefit is in the long run you can reduce production time once you have your paths down, but there are a lot of testing to get there. Best of luck sir!!!

Looks stunning already

I love the inlay!

Nice design and great narration. Keep it up 👍

As usual a superb job, John. Thanks for sharing.

Nice work John

Great work John. Really enjoying this build. Inlay is spot on. You also have a really great, easy presenting style. Looking forward to watching this progress

John, I am absolutely loving that neck. Great design.

Looks great.

Looking good John, the fretboard will look great when finished :)

Wow mate, you're really putting that CNC to good use! I wonder if you sanded upside down, moving the neck over the sanding block the aluminium dust would fall away? Obviously it would be harder to see what's going on...

interesting Al "rod" used for those dots. It seems like Al tube to me

If you're using V-Carve, then why not use a V-carve inlay? V-Carved inlays are way more acurate than straight inlays, and can have "no radius" sharp points. Doing so on a curved surface might be a challenge, though - haven't tried that myself yet. And it will not be 100% true to the original vectors. But I think the relatively small Z deviation will make that pretty much unnoticable. Maybe worth a test piece?

Hello John, I'm really enjoying your videos. Great build so far! I use the same thicknesser as you do, but I have an issue with snape. Would you happen to know how to eliminate or reduce that on the Triton? As I can see from your videos, you don't seem to have the same issue, do you?

Gibson co. says a guitar is upright in a stand, headstock at top. In this position, your inlaid queen looks to the left; however, in playing position, she is on her back. As an American, I approve but is it as 'British' as your accent?

Great job, what size & type of cutter do you do the fret slots with?

Cnc? Please don't! The inlays look ok But! Well y'know?