I think it was 4130 steel. Thanks, glad it helped!

Hi Patric, thanks for the comment. I’d probably use a short lever and an aircraft style push pull cable to control the clutch in most cases. I’m thinking the lever would pivot on your vehicle frame, and would have connecter links reaching to the aluminum “yoke” both on the top and bottom (hence the two pins it has). Then the push pull cable can attach to any convenient location on the lever and be routed to the operator controls. It should be simple to add an extension spring somewhere on the lever to make the clutch normally engaged, or normally disengaged, if needed.

A well pump handle is a similar kind of mechanism to what I describe, you can google that if a visual would be helpful

@@andrewphillip8432 Thank you greatly for the advice, will definitely look into them!

I designed it based on the formula for stress in a cantilever beam, since each tooth of the dog clutch is much like a short cantilever beam with one fixed support. The book I learned from is Mechanics of Materials by Gere and Timoshenko. I also did an FEA analysis in SolidWorks to verify this design.

@@andrewphillip8432 thank you sir. Really appreciate it

@@muh.alfinmasykurmuharram6864 glad I could help

Glad the video was helpful! I could but it would be very expensive since it took an entire week of work to make it

@@andrewphillip8432 How much would it cost since the budget for the project is not too big?

@@niclas3713 if I billed my time at a normal machine shop rate $80/hr. then it would be $3200 plus price of materials. So even if I did it for a fraction of that it would still likely exceed the project budget

@@niclas3713 machining is unfortunately very expensive and time consuming.. which is why I became a machinist since I also could not afford to outsource machined parts

@@andrewphillip8432 Okay thanks but that's beyond the scope. I'm about to build a wakeboard that has a total price of $600 including the motor and that would be completely out of the price range.

I wanted there to be enough clearance that it would be easy to engage all the way once the teeth lined up. So based on the relative speeds of rotation, and how fast I thought the driver could shift the lever. But honestly that isn’t a great approach since neither of those quantities are known with any degree of certainty. If I were to redesign it I’d make it have a lot more teeth, so that the teeth mesh up more frequently, and then add as much clearance as possible while maintaining a comfortable level of strength

People who used this told me it doesn't shift very well while it is rotating quickly. If that is important for your application, then I would recommend beveling part of the teeth and increasing the tooth spacing, so that it becomes easier for them to come into mesh

@Abraham Morrison yeah I machined everything from scratch, so I’m not sure of the technical names

I designed it for 400 ft lbs if I remember right. I chose three teeth because it guarantees even load sharing. Kind of like how a three legged chair always sits flat on the floor, whereas a four legged chair might have one leg not touch the floor. This way each tooth is stressed equally

@@andrewphillip8432 thanks

Also what is Outer dia for that clutch

@@smk3399 roughly 2.5”. Also I used alloy steel. Something like 4340

​@@andrewphillip8432three points are the basis of a plane 🤓