IT gets everywhere, and THEY get everywhere 😂 Both cases are a shame

ha thats hilarious! I might ask them if they would like to sponsor the channel, i hear they have a new marketing manager :)

Ah yeah i remember you emailed re that, and i agree that is odd especially for what is most definitely a very premium product. And whilst i have overall been impressed indeed by the work silca has been doing in this space, that really is very poor form for them to not even reply to such emails. if the people in support answering customer enquiries couldnt get an answer from above re where are the instructions - far out just reply with something whilst chasing up. I hate poor customer service so have been disappointed to hear this story, there is not really an excuse to just ignore a persons enquiry (and a very valid enquiry).

wow...

i think it is partly that, but also for sure partly the modifier. IE rex BD wax is similar longevity, but without the brutal break in. I am not sure what exactly was behind silca's higher melt temp wax base, it was something, they have made a bunch of conscious decisions around it, and have been trying to make it less brutal as it has been difficult for pro's / pro teams - but still they have a very particular base wax direction chosen for X, which i dont fully understand as that break in period in my opinion is too tough to be practical for most - and that is adelaide climate - heaven forbid trying to break that in in many northern hemisphere winters, would be about at 300km break in period... I have a feeling this is an iterative product, and things will change in future.....they are pretty much always working hard in this space and playing around - i will be surprised if we dont see a change in next 12 months

@@zerofrictioncycling992 Indeed. I hope they'll be able to push this wax wet performance further because if they can fix this issue, they'll have a real winner on their hands.

Yes that one is due, might try to make that one the next detail review - overall it was very very good just surprisingly it did quite poor in the wet, which was quite odd as synergetic did very well in the wet, and i would have expected Synerg-E to do even better, alas water was hard on it. Exceptional treatment lifespan in dry.

Thanks, you too!

thanks alex, i have no idea what that is, but i have written that down to have a look at. There may have been extra noise yest, big batteries were charging in the workshop as the mower ran through them and the charger is a bit noisy, i will move that to outside next time my groundsman is here working! But for sure will check that out thanks!

@@zerofrictioncycling992 with RTX voice they can come through with the leaf blower and we wouldn't notice!

beauty thanks man i will totally try and check it out before this fri's vid if i can.

Cool will try and have a look at website but oooh so many lubricants.... needs a compelling case to make the long list! :)

​@@zerofrictioncycling992I now use effetto mariposa flower power so know the best stuff. Why I decided to give bike 7 a try? Many high level riders who ride amateur level in poland and not sponsored started using it. People say it's on the same level as ufo drip without big name brand price level. Few guys on polish youtube made tests how much km it gets them in real gravel rides. And bike 7 was on top. Usually those youtubers compared it to squirt and smoove so other popular options on the market. I've send an emial to bike 7 like u said on the video. For now there is just same basical technicall data sheet on their website and safety data sheet.

Hey alastair! If prepping a race chain - normally an initial break in run is done with factory grease (for shimano chain, about 30 mins on ergo). if you have stripped FG, you cant break in un lubed, that will badly damage chain - you will want to add a drop of oil per link, break in ride, then fully strip clean again for waxing. Then once on waxing, to keep fastest chain - have a dedicated race wax pot vs using same wax you use for training chain, this keeps race wax very clean, when time to replace training wax - race wax moves over to be new training wax, fresh wax into race pot. Try to re wax earlier for race chains - about 200km vs 300km most times. I have a race chain / ultrasonic guide - but it is a bit clunky - am going to try to re do a race chain at home guide.

oh and sorry old intro is temporarily gone - i might try and find it after previous laptop repaired - but i felt it was now a bit dated and long - some who find zfc and listed to a bunch of vids in a row, its a bit much :)

Yeah they can adhere ok overall just typically not like other brands. So they just sound / feel more dry more quickly, and it can just be a pain to keep re waxing frequently enough to keep them in the silky smooth quiet zone - a period that most get a lovely good time in post a wax treatment on other brands. And...... my experience is kmc chain wear life isnt really a match for other brands either. but i havent focussed on testing that re kmc for a long time. but below is a summary of when i did. > They performed terribly in wear longevity test vs pretty much all other brands > I tested a kmc x12 as dedicated race chain for my xc race bike. Wax treatments would be sounding and feeling pretty dry and done by the end of a 1.5hr race. Other chains like ybn or sram - they would typically need around 8 to 12hrs depending on load and conditions to be in same ball park. > Chain was reset and re waxed after each event. i did 5 x 1.5hr xc races, and chain was worn to 0.3. My ybn race chains treated same - for xc race bike its not even at 0.1 after approx 10 races, it is still basically brand new. > I might get about 10 emails a year from waxers who have started waxing but its not going how they hoped - just not pleasurable sound / feel very quickly post waxing. 9 times out of 10, they are on a kmc chain. the other one out of 10, they did something weird (or didnt do something) re chain prep for waxing. if one has a kmc chain that came with the bike, then sure - clean it up for waxing and get what you can out of it vs wasting it. But until kmc actually answer some questions (they started to, then aborted that mission) and we see something different from them, i certainly can recommend them as a choice for purchase if not OEM specced.

​@@zerofrictioncycling992Cheers for the reply. I had read your views on kmc chain and it matches my experiences. What I was wondering though is if the topic was worth a revisit now we have new products with slightly different chemical properties?

yeah i need to do a quick table - but basically we only have 3 wax drip lubricants we currently recommend for use with immersive waxing - silca ss drip, ufo drip all conditions and tru tension tungsten all weather. Some other wax lubricants can sort of go ok for a treatment or two - but can be much different wax base vs the refined paraffin base of the above, so re waxing over other wax lubricants may not go as well. but for sure you cannot mix in a wet lube like Rock n roll, that will be wax bonding disaster next re wax and contaminate your pot. RNR is not a dry lube at all, you cannot mix wet lubricants (or other similar is claiming "Dry" lubricants) with immersive waxing or other wax drip lubricants or you will have a mess of incompatible types.

CS all conditions has been done just the detail review is one of the original document form vs vid (on website). I need to re test their new wet conditions as first test the bottle i had had a batch issue.

@@zerofrictioncycling992 would be interesting if starting with Molton Speedwax and, if UFO is good at wet conditions, reapply with UFO to prevent in rainy winter the big process.

@@TnFruit hmm sorry not 100% sure what that means - UFO being a drip wax is lesser lifespan vs mspeedwax as immersive wax. With most wax drips - half of what you are applying is carrier, immersive is 100% lubricant. UFO all conditions has pretty average lifespan in wet vs mspeedwax. I need to get to re testing their new wet conditions. But not sure what you mean by big process. Once you have done your wet ride, you really want to reset contamination. Lubricant choice lasting your actual ride is part 1 - and most lubricants for most people on most rides - that part is going to be ok. But for frequent wet riding especially - it is what lubricant is the easiest to reset back to low friction again post wet ride. Water brings crap right deep into chain, it will be pressed into wax lube, wet lube, immersive wax etc - it isnt going anywhere after that unless you remove it. Apply more wax lube over the top just gives you more lubricant to contamination ratio - which is better than not doing, but that contamination will still be in there causing friction and wear damage. To me there is no easier way to reset chain post wet ride than doing an immersive wax. that is easier than flush cleaning chain with solvents to reset post wet ride.

Ace are you completely missing the point of these reviews and the ZFC testing? We dont focus much on the 0.00001%, the focus is on wear. Higher wear rate lubricants eat through your components faster. So you do not save money if you are on a poor performing lubricant vs a high performing lubricant. The cost to run differences can be massive. So rather than just ride your bike, how about just ride your bike having a made a good choice regarding what lubricant is protecting your hardest working and often costly components. I dont understand your comment. It is like you have completely missed absolutely everything re ZFC testing and reviews.

You should try waxing one day. Happy cycling! 😅

@@meibing4912 indeed, not entirely sure what aceramone is on about. Perhaps he needs a good cup of coffee and a take two with more neurons online :)