Actually that would be a good one Oli, I'd like to see that too!

👍

Interesting stuff, thanks for sharing Hedly. Cam

Cheers Larison 👍

Cheers Alain

haha, yes very fortunate to have Neill now coming over! Cheers Pierre

🤣🤣🤣

hahaha! I just saw this. Hope all is well mate.

Ive done the same about 2 months ago on my TT bike and its really allowed we to get much more aero and produce more power which was unexpected. At 53 years old have been PBing many of my regular routes that Ive been riding for 30 years. Somn time to do the same on my road bike.

Congrats man!

Nice work!

Stayed discipline on actual base and build, along with having to pack my lunch instead of fast food made a huge difference.

Cheers Rex

Thanks for supporting the channel mate. Never had anyone say that and Neill hasn’t picked up on the handlebar width. But may need to look into that now!

Nice one Rob, thanks for sharing. Cheers, Cam

Far from it. And I'm not even Australian. Cheers, Mate!

I'm waiting for Cam-a-lam to crack out the old Wide World of Sports intro tune... XD

So what is your FTP watt change since the 165 mm cranks? Also how has the rest of your power curve changed?

Cheers Danny, hope the fit works out for you 👍

Good luck mate, keep me posted. Love to hear

Cam Nicholls assembled the 160mm Shimano Cranks 2 days ago (down from the 175mm, big step but can’t afford doing smaller increases) So far feels good, I noticed the higher cadence and lighter pinch in my hip. Could I be dreaming or I also felt some power output increase? Only tried the it on the Kickr so far so I’ll have to see what happens going up the hills.

Nah they're old ones.

Cheers Mike thanks for the correction

Need a bit more time on time David, but that will come in the next few weeks.

Saddle bag, that is. Don’t you just hate predictive sex, I mean text!

yea i was thinking of getting shorter cranks as of right now me knees are hitting me chest but my saddle is at the correct height how much of a height difference did it do for you with 2.5 mm change?

@@simedinson984 i didn't change my seat hight, because with changing 2,5mm you can make a mistace easy. It could have been that my saddle was a bit to high before

@@maartends6051 sounds to me that your seat was to low if anything but yea :)

For the top of the stroke

simon edin but a 175 crank was for sure to long as i am around 1,75 m. So it is normal that my seat was to low for the top of the stroke but if i would have set it higher it would have been to high for the bottom of the stroke.

Indeed, this is due to Cam's right hip drop that we noted (pushes the left knee away from the centreline of the bike). We resolved this by making the changes mentioned in the video, that footage shows how much it was affecting him!

Not at this stage, haven't been fit enough

@@CamNicholls Here's the thing, all of these changes, while they make hypothetical sense, they don't really show how if affects the real world power and speed data. Regardless of your fitness, you should do something like a 20 minute power test or a short time trial to illustrate what the changes actually accomplish in these regards to those important numbers......

Haha

Interesting thought Bruce, have not thought of that scenario! Quite possibly. Cam

Was wondering about Cam's fireplace, does it ever get used where he is?

haha,, Never

three in the surrounding area.

I was going to ask the same, how tall are you Cam N?

Clinchers. Some type of generic alloy DT Swiss wheel.

Yes, I do. Habit.

Don’t know my inseam off cuff. I am 178cm and run 54 cm top tube

Question for Neill, not myself. Sorry

Guilty as charged

yea i do that to and i am not even overweight well to the chest but still 77 kg 193 cm

I use my gut for extra rebound 😳😏🙈😎

My gut makes me more aero

Can take a while to get used to. I am 178cm and ride a 54 top tube

Haha haha! Great summary mate. Thanks for the support as always too

All part of the fun, people's positions always change when you alter their crank length, this was fairly standard except for the Q-factor change, I wasn't expecting that one so much!

Btw, glad to hear that it all worked out.

Just mucking around Bill. For a bit of a laugh. That is what the phone booth is for

@@CamNicholls OK, thank you!! Also, Neil is great! Love the vids with him.

Not at this stage mate

It is not all that simple. If you are fairly flexible you can handle many position on the bike for short or long time. Sort time is 1.5 hours. I keep my stem 120-130mm for handling reason. It is better for bad descender like me. For flat ride I can go shorter reach and shorter stem. My height is 183 cm, inseam 90 cm, longer lower leg and long arms, short torso. So, not ideal for bike fit. For long ride I prefer 97cm saddle height from pedals, saddle nose 7 cm behind BB, 61 cm reach and 17 cm drop. My crank choice is 170mm but I experimenting with 165. My knee sometime kick my ribs but it is not bad. Saddle tilt is 4-5 degrees. I can ride like that all day but sprinting or chasing PB climb is not option. It is for long sustain effort. For steep climb I need to go forward to saddle tip. It is for lower back. For short ride, PB climb or crit races my setup will be different. saddle height from pedals 98 cm, saddle nose 3 cm behind BB, 54 cm reach and 12-14 cm drop. Stem can be shorter. No saddle tilt. My crank choice is 175mm. In that position it is impossible for me to be completely aero, but I have large torque on pedals. Sprinting is much easier. But after 1.5 hour my hands hurts me in many different ways. That setup is TT setup for me. I can put tri bars and enjoy that kind of ride. That is 2 completely different position on bike and there are pros and cons. I'm not bike fitter or pro cyclist. I'm 48 years old with 35 years on road bike, lots of medical issues with my larger joints. Every wrong movement hurts like hell and after that 7 days in bed is guarantied. I know that my position is very aggressive and that is good for me. In my opinion everybody can go aero and low with proper bike fit. But, bike fitters rarely do that. After bike fit you can put shopping bag on your handlebars and go shopping. That is only purpose of bike fit. You need to learn that is 10 position on handlebars and 3 position on saddle. Changing that on ride is crucial. Different position for different terrain and situation.

Thanks for sharing, hopefully you can figure it out

TheOracle I agree, great looking watch! If I’m not mistaken it’s a Tissot. www.tissotwatches.com/en-en/shop/tissot-prc-200-quartz-chronograph-21.html

I’ll see what I can do, won’t be having another round with him now until next year I think

Cam Nicholls really appreciate it....update is that the ache has subsided so maybe it was just my old bones complaining.

Definitely worth while Samual 👍

He actually summaries saying I should leave it

Even a 2mm proud stem will be enough to preload the bearings properly, as long as the top cap is pulling onto the stem and not the steerer tube you're all good

@@neillstanbury4557 The issue is clamping a tube, especially a carbon fiber tube, on its end is a *bad* idea.

​@@CamNicholls Yes, he advocates leaving it, but for the wrong reason. He seems to be totally unaware that there is a safety issue involved with clamping carbon fiber steerer tubes at their end.

Nice one! Good luck

@@CamNicholls the results was remarkable ! Love it so much. Confident, and no more sore muscles.

The chimney is back

@@CamNicholls Yeah, that's funny. But makes sense. When you're not too much in shape you are able to get one floor up. Otherwise you had to buy an endurance bike like me. 😅

The main issue for me is that it can lead to a damaged carbon steerer tube. Check lueschers video about that. Depends on the bike and length tough. A ridiculous high chimney is also not very pleasing to the eye.

It's a elitist road bike style issue when kept in reasonable length.

No idea Marty, good luck