Four different ways on how to remove or replace a ball joint. Depending if you’re reusing the ball joint or not will affect which method best fits your application and I will be covering this on each of the removal options. Ball joints equipped with a taper are typically used on tie rods and the connection between the control arm and steering knuckle. Once that taper on a ball joint breaks loose, it’s free so there is no struggle such as what you may find with a slide in cylinder shaped object. #suspension #steering #autorepair
Amazon links for various products used in the video for both USA and Canada:
USA:
Pickle/tuning fork kit: amzn.to/2NLVKqi
Ball joint separator: amzn.to/3boWJ8j
Canada:
Pickle/tuning fork kit: amzn.to/3btNtPY
Ball joint separator: amzn.to/3aDZIKR
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Method #1:
This remove process is recommended when you’re not reusing the ball joints as you can damage the threads on the stud. Here I was having a little trouble with the tuning fork, so instead I gave the threaded stud a few hits with a hammer and the taper came free. If you are worried about damaging the threads, you can use a brass hammer which will be softer than the stud or install a nut that sits flush on the threads stud.
Method #2:
This method can be used when reusing a ball joint and doesn’t require any specialty tools. This is simply hitting the side of the casting with a hammer on the steering knuckle right at the ball joint. The shock from the hit provides enough vibration to the taper free. However it doesn’t always work as there maybe tension push towards the steering knuckle, preventing the ball joint from breaking free. This method should not be used on cast aluminum components as you can crack the casting.
Method #3:
Using a tuning fork. There is a variety of styles available, some are solid or some have replaceable ends such as what I have. Unfortunately when using a tuning fork, there is a large risk of damaging the ball joint’s boot which jeopardizes it’s life expectancy. Once a ball joint’s boot is ripped, this allows grease to escape and a spot for foreign contaminants to enter, wearing out the ball joint quicker. Tuning forks have a variety of opening sizes, you’ll need to pick the correct size which fits somewhat tight around the ball joints shaft. The fork is shaped as a wedge, when hit with a hammer it forced itself between the ball joint and steering knuckle, breaking the taper free.
Method #4:
Using a ball joint separate. Again a specialty tool like a tuning fork, available in a variety of sizes, and some designs can vary. This tool allows you to reuse the old ball joint with no damage. Ensure the opening is the right size, this particular separator has a size adjustment, install it into place. The bar on the top pushes against the ball joints threaded stud, while the fork shaped portion pushed against the steering knuckle. The bolt is tightened on the opposite side, working on leverage to break the taper free. If you are having a little trouble, sometimes you can give the taper a quick hit with the hammer, provide a shock helping break the taper free. However as mentioned earlier, hitting an aluminum casting with a hammer is not recommended.
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