All you gotta do, is remove the coolant reservoir, remove the bolt and two nuts on the motor mount and jack up the engine about an inch. That front control arm bolt is much easier to attack after that.

@@cptspinach exactly what I did but everyone else was saying do the same as on the left lol but still rattling noise even after I replaced two brand new front arms all joints and shocks everything seems to be tired but I don’t know where the rattling noise comes from oh and I forgot to mention I also replaced stabilizer bar mounts nothing looks loose nothing looks out of place but when I drive even the smallest bump rattles too much in the front both wheels I have no idea what it is

@@ivanmekhael915 brake pads rattling?

REMOVE OIL FILTER HOUSING 4 BOLT EASY TO REMOVE DRAIN OIL FIRST AND PUT BACK WHEN DONE

Thank you for the feedback! Unfortunately, our mechanic has made a mistake - the nut should have been replaced for the new one. Best regards, Autodoc.

Matt, I recently tried to replace lower ball joints on my 2007 prius but could not get that top ball joint castle nut off due to severe rusting. I had to take my prius to a repair shop. My new ball joints have standard castle nuts without that ridiculous half washer half nut design. By the way they had to cut off the original castle nuts.

Thank you for your feedback! We are glad to know you liked this video. Be sure to subscribe to our channel in order to see more useful videos coming out soon. Best regards, Autodoc team!

Thank you for the feedback! We are currently working on creating a wider range of tutorials including the car you mentioned. Stay tuned and follow our latest updates. Best regards, Autodoc.

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Thank you for the feedback! We are glad that our tutorial was helpful for you. Your opinion and remarks are very important for us. We will take them into consideration for our next tutorial. Best regards, Autodoc.

I just unbolted 1 side of my sub assembly so I can use ball joint fork to pry the whole sub assembly down enough to lower bolt below oil pan, & pull bolt out!

Just remove 3 bolts that holds engine motor mount on right side, then lift engine with jack that will give access to remove that bolt. Once done lower engine back to its place.

Thank you for your feedback! Yes, this procedure is the same fot the right side. Best Regards, Autodoc.

No it is significantly harder. The bolt for the forward bushing hits the oil pan so you need to remove a motor mount and jack up the motor before you can get it out. :-( Before you can get to the motor mount you need to remove the windshield washer reservoir and some other brackets...

You are correct. The left side is much harder. I found on my 07 Prius that I did not need to remove the engine mount but just loosen the bolts and jack the engine up as far as possible without the engine coming off the mounts. The second thing I learned the hard way is DO NOT use an open end wrench on the ball joint. The ball joint is torqued to 52 Ft lbs and the odds of getting that off or being able to torque it down with an open when wrench are not good. I rounded the ball joint nut and ended up having to take the steering knuckle off and have a machine shop remove the nut. These are the steps I used sorry if they are a bit over simplified. I am sure there is an easier way but it was the easiest way for me and a lot less painful when I did the left side as well. I also replace the inner and outer tie rod ends at the same time since I was in that far and they were easy to replace. Below is just what I did. Would recommend having a torque wrench or two when doing this. I am no mechanic and below is just what I did and I am sure any professional would have a number of improvements on what I did. 1. Jack car up and put on jack stands and verify it is stable 2. Remove windshield cowling 3. Remove windshield washer bottle 4. Loosen Engine mount bolts (I did not need to remove them) 5. Carefully jack up engine but do not completely remove engine from mounts so later all you have to do is lower the engine and tighten the bolts 6. Remove tire 7. Remove "Brake caliper" 8. Remove "Speed Sensor" be VERY careful not to damage it 9. Remove "Outer tie rod connection to the steering knuckle" 10. Remove "Axle Nut" 11. Remove "Bolts connecting the strut to the steering knuckle" 12. Lean "Steering knuckle forward" 13. Remove "Metal dust ring for speed sensor" 14. Temporarily reconnect "Steering knuckle to strut" do not tighten bolt just needed to hold knuckle 15. Temporarily "Outer tie rod" to steering knuckle" do not tighten bolt 16. Slowly turn steering wheel to gain access to the ball joint nut 17. Remove with a breaker bar or 1/2 drive ratchet (So much easier this way) 18. Remove front "Control Arm bolt" that was blocked by the oil pan. I loosened with a breaker bar (Easier for me anyway) 19. Remove rear "Control Arm Bolt" 20. Remove "Control Arm" bit of a pain 21. Install "New Control Arm" (Easier said than done at least in my case) 22. Reattach and install all the fun stuff removed in the steps above. Recommend using a torque wrench as these are critical parts of the car and no one wants steering parts coming loose when driving. Just what I did. Hope it helps someone and I am sure there are easier ways of doing this but it worked for me.

I'm doing this currently. I just unbolted the subframe at 2 points. Then used a jack to lift the engine by the oil pan using a jack and towels to not damage the oil pan. Then I was able to get the bolt out. Only issue I'm having now is putting it back in. I bought some Siberian bushing and pressed them in but it's really snug.