Thank you. We have tried the concrete in the lids before, with mixed results. No regulations for riser size in our area, we try to match it to the opening.

@@whipkeysepticpumpingllc.9796 I'm really surprised you don't have any requirements for how to size a "riser" on a Septic Tank. I'm in New Hampshire, and we have very strict state codes for Plastic Risers and Concrete Risers. In fact, we've got rules and regulations for how deep the Septic Tank can be without a riser, which is 12 inches. However, if the Outlet Baffle has a Effluent Filter, then a riser is required over the Outlet Cover of the Septic Tank regardless of depth. Also, all Pumping Stations require access at the surface of the earth, and must have a manhole big enough for an average size man wearing a protective suit with a harness and breathing apparatus, when necessary. This usually means a minimum of 36 inches in diameter, and sometimes even 42 or 48 inches if it's really deep. Keep in mind, sometimes we need to pump air into the Pumping Station or Pump Chamber, because it's 4, 5, or even 6 feet deep. I've personally repaired and replaced pumps that were 10 to 20 feet below the surface, and I could not breathe the air. I also couldn't have worked on them without a really big Concrete Riser that allowed me to put a ladder in the hole.

@@craigwillson5974 I’m not man enough to hang with you Craig, most people couldn’t do your job. If they did, it would be at gun point.

@@dennischristensen9479 Thank you for recognizing or acknowledging that Septic and Sewer Professionals are the unsung heroes of modern day society. By the way, I'm almost 60 years old, and I'm very concerned about the future of the Septic and Sewer Industry, because young people today aren't interested in working in this business, which is a big problem. In fact, I believe the average age of most Septic and Sewer Professionals in America today, is in the early to mid 50's. So, you have to ask yourself, when we all retire or die, who's going to build, repair, and maintain the wastewater treatment and disposal systems across this country... in another 10 to 15 years, this could be very problematic. Unfortunately, nobody seems to be worried about it, which in my opinion, is kinda scary.

Thanks for watching!

Lowes - HomeDepot or a plumber supply house.

If possible go with the bigger one. Ultimately just measure across your lid and add 2 inches.

@@whipkeysepticpumpingllc.9796 It has 2 rectangular cement lids that measure over 5ft wide each. Is there a benefit with going bigger diameter? Also does it have to be double wall pipe if buried 6ft deep? And i cant find an adapter ring online for 18" diameter.

Diameter is determined by Hole in tank 16/18” dia hole go w 24” they make 12/ 24” Mostly they make 16x24 square

Older tanks may have no access find center line in and out and drill top Core bore concrete lids are 4-6” Thick

Nope. We dug down to the tank. Water infuriating isn't a real issue as the original lid is installed inside the riser. If we are worried about water or dirt working itself under the riser we would use waterproof adhesive around the bottom and outside of the base.

@@whipkeysepticpumpingllc.9796 Thank you. I am replacing lids and one riser so your video helps me figure this all out.

if the riser is placed on. the flat top of the tank, a gasket could be used to protect ground water intrusion. Thou that would be minimal. This riser is placed in the Taper inside the existing opening. No gasket/seamer is needed.