Here's something I've been wondering about: if I get a smaller build area, will that result in higher quality machining because the platform is more rigid?

I will make a How To Video some day but I tore a rotator cuff and will be going in for surgery in a few days and have loss the use of my right arm until August, so here is a Step by Step instructions that I typed up (left arm). Let me know is (a) I left something out, and (b) is you have any questions). Prior to making the WD40 drip can, you need to determine where and how you will mount the can to your machine. I attached mine with some double sided tape and a small wooden clamp (See sketch link: imgur.com/a/QYHuk ) Don’t forget to scroll down to see ALL 7 photos!!! WD40 Drip can Info: Head to a hardware or Home Center (I went to Lowes), picked up the following: a small can of WD40, a piece of 3/16 brass tubing (Ref: 364224), a small 90º valve (Ref: 68578) and about a 1” piece of 1/4 copper tubing (if you don’t have any around the house). (I had some left over from my ice maker installation kit) 1) Empty the small can (pressure release), Pry off the top. 2) Drill a small 1/4” hole in the bottom (about 3/8 off center, so that you can rotate the can and change the distance from the can to the end of the pipe) 3) Solder in the 1/4” tubing to the can. 4) Install the valve onto the can’s bottom. (dry fit) Note: I ended up bending valve handle into a U shape to provide some additional clearance 5) Anneal the 3/16 brass tubing by heating it up to a dull red color 6) After cooling, tape one end, and then fill the brass tubing table with salt, and tape the top to hold in the salt. 7) Place the can in the holder that you made (ref: imgur.com/a/QYHuk ) or similar and attach it to the Shapeoko. This will provide you with the information of where to bend the brass tubing. 8) Bend the brass tubing and cut it to length. (you can see my 2 small bends in the photo) 9) Remove the valve from the WD40 can. Disassemble the valve so that you do not damage the o-ring during soldering 10) Solder the 3/16 tubing into the valve 11) Permanently mount the holder, install the can of WD40 and tubing assembly, adjust the tube location by rotating the can, and happy machining. Note: Depending on what I am cutting, I normally adjust the drip to about one drop per 10 sec. Your usage may vary.

Well first you should be using ZrN coated end mills. They came out after this video and they are excellent and you can cut dry 95% of the time. As for the diameter, there are plus and minuses. A 1/4" diameter endmill will last years in the Shapeoko, and the machine isn't strong enough to break it when you do something silly (which everyone does), but they require more cutting force. The 1/8 requires less force, but they will break.....Me? I TRY to use 1/4 if I can, and use 1/8 when I HAVE too.

Thank you so much for responding. I have ZrN coated mills in both sizes and I JUST finished re-squaring the device. I am not sure if its "perfect" per se but just jogging the machine to different positions is markedly improved as I don't hear weird noises when it moves forward on the Y axis anymore. I also tightened the wheels like you suggested. Now I need to make a new spoil board or perhaps a vacuum board as the sheet metal I am cutting tends to bow up in the middle which is causing problems when I go to do test cutouts.

Sorry, it's going to be a long answer: I've learned that using coated end mills on a small CNC is critical. Using anything else sill cause the aluminum to stick to the cutter, and it soon break, where you can cut all day long with a good coated cutter. I have used several coating types and found that TiAlN (Sometimes spelled AlTiN) to be the best. Well, I have learned that Micro Grain Carbide really doesn't matter too much for a home CNC (Yes, it works better in a $100,000 Machine), so look for the best price on eBay. 1/8 Inch, stick with 2-flute, 1/4, you can use 2 OR 3 flute. I have had great luck with Drillman1 seller on eBay, but I think he sells excess cutters, so he doesn't always have every size all the time. I visit his store often, and buy when he has something good, otherwise, if I am in a hurry, I'll buy from another seller.

I recommend that you take a look at Winstonmakes video. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/iZ-Slsh73dbVd2Q.html This is an old video and with the new Z motor plate from Carbide3D, the machine became a LOT stronger. Yes, 1/4, 3-flute ZrN coated cutters are a must (because they canrunDRY most of the time). The machine will take a lot more (Fusion360 Adaptive cutting) if it is set up properly, but it will take you some time to get everything tight and right. I recommend that you start slowly say 10"/Min working your way up to mayb 40"/Min. You'll find your machine's sweet spot. Have fun.

The machine is 100% Factory Stock.

+Bret Richter Good find! Someone is not updating their web page! The Work Coordinate Origin (G10) command has worked since Grbl 0.8 (We are now on 0.9) I'll get it updated

The spindle (Dewalt DWP611) is what comes with the Shapeoko. It's a 69mm mount.

stirlingfromla thanks. Probably the only good part of the xcarve