Good effort. As a Worcester engineer I'll give you some pointers which I carry out when replacing the diverter valve. 1. NEVER TOUCH THE FLOW AND RTN ISOLATION VALVES! They usually leak! If they do then pressurise and run the htg. The flow pipe heats up and the leak normally stops after a while. Otherwise its blr off the wall job. 2. Replace the aav and prv at the same time. That way it vents properly when refilling and you don't have to bleed the pump getting water on your pcb. They aren't expensive and the old ones will probably leak when refilling. 3. Disconnect the pipe into the exp vessel and recharge using your hose attached to the inlet of the vessel. That way you don't push shit around your blr. 4. Pull out the filling link still attached to the div valve. It gives you extra leverage and the silver u clip is easier to remove/refit. Whilst its out remove the grey cap and put a tiny bit of grease on the spindle. Refit the grey cap and work the grease into the spindle. Less chance of the grey cap rounding off then. 5.A few wraps of ptfe around the brass cold mains inlet will help prevent leaks on the cold mains when refitting the div valve. 6. Only remove/refit the bypass connection when the div valve is loosened and 4 screws removed. Otherwise its a bitch to put back in when the div valve is tightened up because the bypass hits the flow pipe under the pump. 7. Grease and fit the 22mm fibre washer for the pump connection when you offer up the div valve. Again, very difficult to fit when div valve has been tightened up. 8. Make sure the flow isolation connection is IMMACULATE before you put the new o-ring on. Wd40 and an angled toothbrush will do, clean the hell out of it. If it leaks you'll have to start all over again. 9. Remove and clean the pressure guage whilst the blr is drained. Its usually blocked/restricted. 10. If the big dhw heat ex clip is not going in, grease it and use big grips to gently squeeze the plate and manifold together, the clip will then slip in. Grease the screw and don't overtighten, it might shear off. Tighten the screw and 22mm brass nut on the plate in equal measure so they line up correctly. Well done though, the div valve can be a pig to replace. Oh, and the expansion vessel? If changing remove the side panel, slip it out and pop rivet the side panel back on once the new one is in. Saves taking the manifolds out.

Mate I’m so impressed with the details and the time and explaining you do in your vids ,best ones out there what I’ve seen so a big thank you and it is much appreciated 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

Thank you so much for this video. The diverter valve almost beat me up, but after 5 hours manage to defeat it 🤣. Your video was really helpful! Thank you!

Another great video from a top boiler guy!!!! Well done and massive thank you for showing us. Also you are a hero for working on an old and in a very poor condition boiler!

Ok so I am off to do one of these this morning ... watched your video ten times now ... wish me luck ... brilliant video

Thanks for the video, I am a newbie on boilers and these sure do help.

Been meaning to comment of this for a while. Done a job not long ago replacing a diverted on this and this video is absolutely spot on! Actually met you at the alpha training centre. Hope things have picked up for you since then. Thanks for all the videos mate you’re a master at work!

Great video as usual I never stop learning in this game Keep up the good work

Hi I saw your videos and I really enjoyed it keep up the good work. I have a Main Eco 30 Combi boiler I was fitted about 7 years ago, the whole pipe work is new and radiators. There is one thing that annoys me on my boiler is that when ever is ignites it makes a small tiny explosive noise you can hear it from far 😫 I have so far replaced the electrodes since it was old and bent (it was working but I wanted to avoid it failing), the heat exchanger was hoovered and the seal was replaced, the diverter valve and actuator was replaced (since a small leak damaged it). I have regularly flashed the water out using the drain point and running the boiler and keeping an eye on the pressure (the water is never too dark and flush it until it is clear water, I added some inhabitors, clean the filter out and took the air out of the rads, it is well balanced too. I had to pressurise the extension vessel which is good now, on the same time I took the prv out and cleaned it very little dirt on it it’s working good, I also cleaned out the part in which condensation and other dirt accumulate. There is one thing that annoys me on my boiler is that when ever is ignites it makes a small tiny explosive noise you can hear it from far 😫, you could describe it like a small delayed ignition 🤷🏽‍♂️ What would you recommend to check?

Awesome video mate, always enjoy these longer vids 👍🏻

Smashed it once again Brv...changing a pump on this tomorrow my 5th one this year..👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽 Moe

Brilliant video 👍🏼

Excellent video once again. Keep it up.

Excellent, very informative thanks for the video 👍👍👍👍

I have a plumber coming to replace the Diverter Valve in same bolier as you show. Although my boiler has no leaks whatsoever I'm amazed at the amount of work involved. I had the PCB replaced 12 months ago so don't want to risk any water on it! My boiler (as others have said) is higher than the radiators as I am in a flat. Should I insist he removes the drop down panel as a precaution? Gotta say I'm impressed with your diligence and perservering with the 'hardest of jobs' when so many would turn up suck in some air through their teeth shake their head and say those imortal words ' Need a new boiler mate' :) Great ref vid I shall bookmark for my H.E. if he fancies a gander :)

Great video. Done many over the years always a headache.

great vid mate, I have had the same problem you normally face, where the main inlet feed to the diverter valve leaks though it takes me hours as I am an amateur lol.

had many nightmares with that bypass pipe too also i agree with mr wimms this boiler taught me many years ago never touch isolation valves on these boilers and very last resort on any boiler , great vid you def earn your crust fella

Excellent video and well explained.

Great job👍🏼

Thanks for this, gave me the confidence to have a go at mine, 4 hours later job done and boiler is working a treat.

I have a contract where I look after about 40 of these lovely old well built boilers, needless to say I have changed quite a few diverter valves over the years but never have I once had to remove the PCB control box. I Always re-pressurise the expansion vessel blowing the water out of the plastic drain valves before disconnecting any water components, NEVER do I touch the heating Iso valves! Another tip is to remove the hot water thermistor which will enable you to swing the diverter valve away from the rear of the boiler and help in disconnecting/re-connecting the by-pass pipe. I ALWAYS replace the heating flow valve "O" ring and thoroughly clean the valve with acid cleaner or similar before fitting the new O ring, same for cold water valve O ring.

I use to take the bypass pipe out but then another engineer you told me you can swing the pipe out of way also I never touch the isolation valve. But great work.

top man, as always impressing vid, thanks

Great video, some great tips! Your methodical approach serves you well repairing these boilers! Any chance you could upload the expansion vessel / pop rivet the case video as that would be interesting to see 👌

Great vid Ollie. Had to do one the other day helped me out brilliantly. That o ring on the flow is crap though. I don't think the spigot sticks out through far enough. Keep up the good vids mate.

Great effort but now I'm older looks like a hard way to earn a crust lol would rather install a new boiler when I was young and keen I would have repaired it like you.keep up the good work enjoy watching your vids Regards Lee old school plumber

Best boiler on the market. Don’t think so. Only way to mend it. Take apart completely. Great

Thanks for the video and tips....

I have this same boiler with three terminals on the fan, two at one end of the coil and one at the other, (black/white/ red wires) can some kind soul, please advise which coloured wire goes to which terminal as, stupidly I disconnected it without noting the details.

Great info job well done mate. Just had 37cdi heat cell with leak no trace of water anywhere. Isolated boiler lost pressure thru condensate into bucket, obvious internal leak is there a 10 yr warranty on the 37cdi?

Great vids man. I would feel remiss however if I didn't point out the CO2 reading was low at the end. should really be 6.7 or else the ratio is void. I had to do hundreds of these on my apprenticeship. The expansion vessel is a right beast. Now im self employed that bad boy becomes remote or the boiler is a goner!! once again top vids man. ( i especially liked you pointing out to clean the connections on the o rings. Wish i had seen this i learned the hard way!!)

Thanks for this great video! Question please, how easy is it to replace the PRV? I see there is v little space between the top of the PRV and the side panel.

Just watching your video I have a similar problem I have a 24 CDI with a water leak on the left-hand side just as you have just done the repair also there is a leak that I can't see where it's coming from on the right hand side not very much at all but are both there recently I've had another problem arise when you are running the hot water the radiators are getting hot upstairs and is taking some time for the hot water to reach the taps would this be the diaphragm in the diverter valve and have you come across this problem much appreciated A answer

Good vid, i dont miss fixing these haha.. if im right the wrong o-ring fitted to the CH connection is the one for the PHX connection?

Got a 24CDi, the hot water is piping hot regardless of what setting the control knob is set to, do you think it could be a fault with the PCB?

well done mate. Just Brill

I keep hearing about this powder flushing I can only guess it's a abrusive powder a bit like sand blasting .I do a lot of power flushing and allways do it hot and get good results but you will never totally clean the pipe like if you scrubbed it.what is your view on it do you think it could damage pipework and boiler components you can not buy these powders they have patent it like you I like to do the best job I can and am intreasted to know if it's as good as they say and maybe some one can make some think similar

I learnt the hard way to always remove the pcb whilst changing the diverter valve on that boiler , spent about 3 to 4 hours changing the thing on the first time i done one got the pcb wet with power off ...dried off pcb turned on and still blew it...thay was a painfull experience....i haven't done one since! Never had that issue again on that boiler. I wish i can say i can laugh about it now but i cant 😁

How long would it take to replace a PRV on a Worcester Bosch Greenstar 30si ? Am assuming the Hydraulic block needs to come out to get to the PRV.

I have a problem with the pressure on this boiler. I get it to 1.5 bar and within a few hours it drops to 0.5 bar and stays steady at that pressure till i turn on the boiler. Do you think the diverter diaphragm is getting holed and the system pressure is keeping it at 0.5bar?

Can you change the diaphragm on these in place or do you need to remove it all?

Great video. I thought that you had to remove the filling loop when you removed the heat exchanger but it seems like you don't, or did I miss that bit? :)

I remember my first week being qualified i had to change the expansion vessel on one of these (didnt know the side panel trick either). It took all day to do as it wouldnt stop leaking and i spent that night wondering if id made a mistake becoming a gas man 😂

Are you in Kent as I want my boiler fixed

I've got an issue ....I bought a new duverter cartridge and I checked its the right 1 etc via model number . Its longer than the 1 that came out and although threads etc seem same . It won't allow it to go in due to the base plates /seals Any help thanks

Hello heating geek. Just found your channel and must say I’m slightly envious of your knowledge at such a young age. Can I ask what case you have your analyser in?

Hi mate top video but how do you combustion ? Is the point at flue ?

I have the same boiler as this.... Today its stopped working.... When I put the heating on the pilot fires up and we get heating but when I turn the hot tap the boiler does not respond.... No hot water.... What do you think the problem could be?.... Thermocouple or diverter valve?

informative 👍🏽👍🏽. how long did u take to complete the job actually

Not sure my crappy short term memory would remember where all them screws and clips came from lol.

Just noticed looking at your vid again that the plastic shroud is missing that normally covers the back of the PCB housing, that would not have helped in initially helping to save the PCB from becoming fried! ;)

How come you use an analyser on a boiler that predates that tech? Would you just not do a working, burner pressure test and rate it?

Can a plumber perform this task or would you need a gas safe engineer?

Great effort! Pig of a diverter to change

Nice vid but probably easier and cheaper in the long run to put in a new more efficient boiler with a 7 year warranty.

Did the bloke ever turn up with the 2nd board ?

I will be starting to replace these boilers soon as the housing association has a policy to fit condensing boilers to all their properties. Just wondered if any of you guys have signed up to ATAG boilers and if so have you had any issues with them to date? I have fitted about 10 so far without any issues, they give you a 10 year warranty and are a quality bit of kit from what I can see, No composite plastic components and a quality in-house built stainless steel heat exchanger. Would be interested to hear anyone else's views or experiences.

A magnetic plate for screws is good keeps them safe, few quid from car accessory shop😉

Approximately how much money do plumbers charge to change the diverter valve? Myne needs changing and I dont know how much to expect

Hello sir How to change broken Heating Knob please

cant beat a good bucket

Those were the days when Worcester had brass parts.

Blimey Ollie you need a haircut😂 top job buddy that was coool. What a difference a thicker O ring can make.

wow he put his whole tool set on there haha amazing

what boiler would you choose looking at replacing mine

When I qualified , youtube didn't exist , I could still change one of these in less than 40 mins , did get the pcb wet first time I changed one though .

Have you ever changed a DV on a Worchester 230 ? Happy days 😂

How much do you charge for this? And do you work in London?

What I normally do with the front panel is get my snips, snip all the wires off and launch it out the front door along with the rest of it shortly after.

Thjs must be one of the worst designed boilers ever and one of the reasons why I don't fit wocester if I can help it. Hate hate hate, loath entirely!

The old Worcester boilers you could repair with a knife and fork the new ones you need a computer and a degree in electronics

Good boiler shit design. New Worcesters are even worse, plastic hydraulics that are prone to leaking and razor sharp casings that make it lethal to work and dont get me started on the prv location 😂

Used to like fitting them, pre pipe it then slide the boiler on

Feel you pain with these boilers! Whenever I go to a breakdown and see these, my thoughts are ffs lol

I've a Worcester Bosch 240 rsf, 23yr old. (1996) It's leaking from PVR and the fill loop. Just bought those parts wondering if I can squeeze some more life out of this baby. I think I could change fill loop but prv not really. Been a pretty reliable boiler really, fitted by British gas. Only changed a diverter valve (plumber) and, I changed a fan myself which was easy . I'm gonna squeeze hard. But will look at newun. Any one any view on a make ? As it lives in the inside part of a former coal shed, I think I'd need a soak away for the condense pipe. (If I got a newun that is) Which, will have to go through the coal shed and out. I must admit my boiler although big compared to newer ones, looks cramped inside, doesn't look easy to work on, but I'm a layman so maybe talking bull.

You really need to get a proper torch.

I don't change these anymore Nasty part...

Here's a quick tip for you, tell the arsehole who turned off the isolation valves to get back and clear his own shit up . Fair play to you for having a go , I wouldn't. The 26cdix was even worse . Lucky for me they've all been ripped out and replaced on my contract

Wouldn’t touch this boiler with a barge pole , absolutely worst designed boiler ever ... Condemned one about a month ago ....🙈🙈

how to replace anything on one of these now is to scrap it and get a new one

Don’t ask this guy a question he doesn’t answer you waste of time