Which part did you add the washer? Where the knife clamps down with magnets, or the rod pivot that adjusts the level? Thanks for the info!

@@Jef I dissaaaemblied the clamp. To acsess top center screw. Take apart the clamp. On the bottom there are a nut. Take it off and add a greased washer. All contactpoints were lubed or greased or both.

sharpworx should add a lubricating guide ...no one gives instructions anymore

Thanks for checking it out 👊

Glad it was helpful!

Hope you enjoy it! I’d advise watching some more videos on it, to make sure my details are correct 😂 Not coming with instructions is just silly

Hey. Yes no instructions was a little odd. But I watched your great video again to get how to assemble. Got ab angle cube also. Just done my chefs knife. 400 diamond then 1000 diamond followed by 6000 grit. And strop. Wow. Razor sharp. Way better than my horl2. Thank you

Glad it helped

Thanks for checking it out 👍

Appreciate you checking it out, and leaving this comment. I think for left handed guidance it will be a nice tool to help develop that. You mentioning time and effort really hit home. Takes more than many realize, to put a video together. Thanks for the acknowledgement 🙏. My motivation has been in the trash the last few years. Would be nice if i could rekindle that spark and drive i had when i first started

Thanks for checking it out. As far as i can tell the bevels are consistent. I got some slight wonkiness at the heel but it maybe from previous sharpening. Either way, doesnt affect cutting performance. Just aesthetic .

Thanks for checking it out 🙏

I like it too

@@Jef Marc @sharpworx is a great guy. I wish him good health and prosperity

Yes. The system rotates with the belly very well.

Yep. Tape will save save ya from that

I love these types of products. I would have killed for something like this when I started. Lol it's so hard when u start.

@@Jefoh yeah. Learned after the first one. Then, after the second went well, I tried just taping the magnet holder… as you probably know, grit got in between the tape and the knife blade. Still scratched. So, taping the spine is the answer here, but I’m gonna go out on a limb and say, duh!!!!

We also have started embedding the magnets so that is isn't an issue.

@@sharpworx wish I had that holder and didn’t have to use tape.

I got mine from a local restaurant supply store but they are on amazon. Search for restaurant food tote. Here is a link to one similiar to mine. The dimensions of mine are 18in long and 12in wide. Not sure of gallon or depth. I usually turn it sideways with a smaller suehiro bridge but this device is very long so i turned it lengthwise. The stability doing it that way wasnt the best but it works. The sides are very ridgid unlike those “bus tubs” they also sell.

www.amazon.com/Rubbermaid-Commercial-FG330900CLR-3-5-gallon-Included/dp/B000VAUFRW/?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_w=ilGHb&content-id=amzn1.sym.278a231e-7496-43c2-a864-2367bca2eeb2%3Aamzn1.symc.c32ea383-0406-481f-aa79-ef5129d2367b&pf_rd_p=278a231e-7496-43c2-a864-2367bca2eeb2&pf_rd_r=TWJ5S7BZPAEQ8D63R1VY&pd_rd_wg=6j4nk&pd_rd_r=cbfddf31-c0ab-41d4-bc7b-ade50733461a&ref_=pd_gwm_ci_mcx_mr_hp_m

The lowest setting is 10°. You might be able to fiddle with the arm to get even lower, but i don’t think it would be ideal, for that process (thinning). Thinning requires alot of grinding, on a fairly large surface. I found diamond plates work extremely well on v bevels, but large surfaces, they are slow. For this process, i find friable stones, to be the best option. With a stone that sheds grit readily, you don’t have to apply a ton of pressure. There are many options to choose, but if speed is what you are after, look to the criteria i spoke of. The shapton pro 120, and the norton crystolon, are among my two favorites. Yes, the norton is considered an oil stone, but you can use it with water. I soaked mine in oil for 24 hrs, and let it air dry after. Since that time, I’ve mainly used a water/oil/soap mixture as my main lubricant. You could just use water, or even soapy water, if you wanted. Either way, it’s a fast, coarse stone, that’s friable. On another note, if you are just set on diamond, consider a very coarse resin bonded stone, like venev. The coarsest available is suitable, although it would not be my first choice. Or, if you just want a plate, try something like chef knives to go, store branded diamond plate, at 80 grit. There maybe coarser out there, but it’s the only one i know of, off the top of my head.

@@Jef 10dps is really dissapointing, i sometimes want 8 or even 6 for transition bevel, before 15dps mircobeveling. (RIP Cliff Stamp.) Also scienceofsharp showed that DMT cut literally 10 times slower than atoma on larger surfaces, likely due to the pattern on the atoma having more pressure. So i wouldnt generalize it, but keep your experience in mind. I would try to get the deep scratches out with a 325grit diamond plate.

That is interesting, that they have such a big difference in cutting speed, on large surface areas. I can’t say i have tried to compare them side by side, but i do like, atoma, over dmt. My dmt have shown many issues in qc, from abrasive particles on a fine stone, leaving deeper scratches than my ex coarse, to plates having actual dents, that caught my edges, as i did fwd strokes. Atoma, on the two plates i have tried, were just better, in all ways. Speed, qc, and scratch patterns. The few times i have used diamonds to thin a knife, i felt like pressure was required. It is probably just a trick of the mind, from using water stones. It’s just something i recall, and couldn’t say one way or another, if it helps. Just throwing it out there. 👍

@@Jef Yeah, QC with DMT is suprisingly terrible, and there is grit contamination. In his tests its abrasion rate (on larger surface) was as efficient as a 16k stone... 😂 And regarding diamonds, usually people say very light pressure with diamond, but thats for sharpening, which is way less contact area, i think for thinning one can and data shows should use much more force.

T1 is a little more simple. Plus, it isn’t a giant apparatus. I think the t1 is much easier. However, this device is no slouch. It does what it does, well. Honestly, they are so different, its hard to compare. If i had to choose one…i would prob go with the sharpworx. Just bc it doesnt have jaws that clamp. I’ve always had issues with the stones rubbing the tip of the clamps, and a few other annoyances.

@@Jef Does the Sharpworx get in the way at all for freehand motion/positioning? That's one of my worries since the goal would to just eventually not use it at all. The setup definitely looks more involved which makes the T1 more appealing. I do sharpen smaller pocket and paring knives but they don't get used/wear as often as my bigger kitchen knives. I'm assuming it'd be less of a worry with the stones rubbing on clamps with taller blades?

Actually, smaller blades rub more. The apex is right smack against the clamp mouth often times. This device can get in the way of your natural motion, if your motion doesn’t follow along, with its trajectory. I didnt find it to be a major issue, but definitely something i noticed. Someone else mentioned, it completely changed how they did things. As long as you allow the system to do its thing, it shouldn’t be a problem. Look through here for comments from others, who mentioned this. You may gain some insight, or even ask them, some follow ups as to how they dealt with it.

That’s my thoughts as well. I’m actually going to continue using this for awhile and see of i can get the knack of it

This is the way. It most certainly does help your left get used to the motion. This was the original reason I purchased one.

Damn, i totally meant to address that. No, you can’t flip it around. Well you can, but the angle is much more obtuse, and doesn’t match the other side. You might be able to readjust the arm, and clamp, to match, but it’ll be arduous. I’d just advise flipping, as i did. It’s not so bad, and my left hand, is useless

and a good dry lube would be great too...(for the rods) dont skimp on the stones is my guess...for my cnc i always buy quality bits

I’m digging it honestly. I didn’t think i would like it as much as i do. Just gona have to fiddle with it to really learn its quirks. These devices all have em. Shifting the rod has already been shown as one where i messed up. I should have adjusted the bevel angle on the magnetic clamp and not the arm. Wasnt much of an issue but any slight adjustment can really doink things up. Good to see ya bro. Hope you and the family are doing well 👊

What are you talking about? I didn’t remove any post.

I looked for your last post and don’t see it. If it got deleted on my side, it was an accident. I wouldn’t have done that on purpose if it had information i thought was highly valuable to not only myself but everyone. My apologies if it was me

I checked my email as well. I got none saying you responded to any of my videos. The last one was 6 days ago. If it got removed it wasnt from me and youtube didnt acknowledge it even posted

YT handling of replies has been flaky for some time now. For some unknown reason reply’s don’t always register. I seriously doubt that Jef had anything to do with this issue.

Can you explain a little further? As i said, this thing has zero instructions. What “height of the rod” did i use to dial in? I just placed the clamp on the stone, and leveled it. Then tightened the clamps. Any help would be most appreciated 🙏

@@Jef Second time you marked the blade with a sharpie and then adjusted the height on the post to dial it in. On regular sharpeners the blade remains fixed and level in the clamp and the rod is tilted to set the angle. On that sharpener the angle is set on the holder and the rod is set level to keep the blade parallel to the stone. If the rod is not set level the blade swings in a slight arc as it gets closer to the post. This creates slight convex edge. If you wanted a convex edge this could actually be a feature. On blades with a large taper from spine to apex it will be hard to dial in the angle. That sharpener looks to work best on chef knives with thin flat blade. Clamp holders work better on blades with thick spine and deep hollow grind. Do they make a clamp holder for that style sharpener? Manetic holders havetheir benefits in speed but not always in accuracy on blades with hollow grind or deep wedge shapes with dramatic ckange in spine thickness.

Ahhhh i see exactly what you mean now. Ive seen that problem before on cheap knock off epa systems. Height rods would move around and cause all sorts of issues unless you figured out a way to keep them still. Appreciate the clarity