Man I love your videos!! You’re really funny without trying! And while giving us solid science and advice.Subscribed!!

I think this is the system I’ve been looking for. Thanks for this review.

Loved this video 3D! Been interested in this concept for along time. I used a similar system for a while using a clamp similar to the old hapstone one with adjustable protruding guide bars. Crucially I had a stone holder that had a zeroing device enabling to use any bench stone you may possess,or bench strop to keep a constant level on whatever stone you were using. An angle cube was used to set a consistent angle. The system you showcase gets round this neatly. But it looks a little cumbersome and maybe not as ‘freehandy’ as the system I used which really allowed for the tactile feed back which is so satisfying with bench stones. Thank you!

excited to see this!

Great, informative video! I recently got in a worksharp precision adjust pro and have been more or less disappointed with it. No matter what I do knives never go deep enough in the clamp to not wobble so I'm constantly having to stabilize the knife. This seems like a better alternative to me, especially since it will also not take up as much room.

I've had mine for a while now. Same experiences. I use an angle cube for set up as well. Yes, a micro height adjustment would be nice. It would speed things up when transitioning between stones. And don't think for a second that a set of stones are all the same thickness. I calibrate between every stone progression. Does it work? Yes. Is my TSProf Pro faster and easier to use? Yes. The big advantage with this system is being able to use regular bench stones, which are way more economical than guided system stones. Plus it will help you learn a good skill. Would I buy it again? Yes, but watch for a sale. Thanks for sharing! 😀

1:32 Even Murray Carter admits his freehand bevels aren't flat but actually slightly convex, a low apple seed. If you're not familiar with Murray, get comfortable & look him up. He's a truly amazing bladesmith with a fascinating history.

Just a couple of points. 1. Although easy, like you I’m not keen on magnets for the same reasons plus they attract swarf, also the constant removing and replacing of blades to sharpen the other side could lead to inconsistencies in placement, causing small angle changes. 2. You said you didn’t like working with the blade going away from you, so try pivoting the holder through 180° and pull towards you to see if that helps. 3. If you’re trying to learn muscle memory, try to have both hands on the blade, not 1 the holder. 4. You can use this and devices like it to do convex grinds by deliberately setting the guide rod at an angle so that angle changes during the stroke. First set the rod level with the blade furthest from the upright, (closest to you if sharpening in the suggested direction) and the blade set to the desired apex angle (say 25°). Move the blade to the far end and set the stop. Then raise that angle by 5 to 7°. This will subtract from the apex angle so the junction of the primary and secondary bevel will be 18 to 20°. When I’m doing convex grinds on cleavers with my fixed geometry system I usually set a 18-20° primary bevel angle coming to 25° at the apex. This gives a great looking curved, razor sharp and mirror edged bevel that’s robust and easily repeatable. I like my sharpening to be as Zen as possible, so I use rubber O-rings in conjunction with stops to avoid the metal on metal clattering. I’m developing a system for myself very similar to this. I designed it without ever seeing this and then one day this machine popped up in my suggested vids and thought this guy had stolen my idea😂. He hadn’t obviously but it was so odd to see something I’d had on my mind for so long in a vid. At first I was a bit crest fallen but I can now see multiple ways they’re different and ways to improve on my design and make it unique.

it looks well made and ready to sharpen knifes for years to come...i like the magnetic holder...at least the concept. i will know more when i get it

Great vid. Thank you. I have one coming in a few days. Quick shipping from USA to uk. Very good price. And thanks for tip on angle cube. Just ordered one. I have a horl2 and I just don’t rate it, think this is what I’ve been waiting on, can’t wait.

12:00 Even with the a two bolt setup the angle in my opinion never fits the angle of full flat ground knifeblades and thus the blade always banks to one side and the angle is different when switching. Which was the first problem i noticed with clamping systems when i bought a lansky long ago. (worked well with sabre grinds, not at all with any swiss army knife as the blade always tilted to one side) The level is probably not the ideal idea for making it parallel. As it measures the level... If your table setup is a tiny bit off, it wouldn't matter for the sharpening as long as the rod and the stone are parallel. But the level would show it to not be level...So using the angle measuring device like you did is the only real safe way. 19:00 It always surprises me that most people trying out the normal clamping sharpening systems don't realize that. And even in the comment sections of review videos there are few who know about it or understand it. I don't get why because the angle change is visible when they would look at the edge a few times during the sharpening process. As for the direction of freehand sharpening: It may only be me, but i do sharpen with the edge away from me, do only on forward strokes (on stones) and i actually start at the tip. This way it is easier for me to visualize the correct movement of my arms to keep the same angle tip to handle. Because with the way most (like you) do it, i would have to think "around" to keep in mind in which direction to lift the handle. I don't watch the edge, but the knifeblade itself. I might not see the edge touching the stone, but i see if my movment is consistent. And i can check if i hit the correct angle inbetween. In my opinion people are concentrate too much on the sharpening angle (15°, 17° 20°...)and less on the consistency of the blade movement across the sharpening medium when learning to sharpen freehand. I am not among the pros of freehand sharpening by any means. But i started experimenting around the age of 12 and did consistent convex edges by chance and started non convex edges after i learned how to really use a file in engineering school. (we did file two afternoons a week for 2 months, and it isn't as easy as people would think to make a completely flat surface with a file for example) Since then, i need to purposefully change my otherwise meditative sharpening routine if i need a convex edge.

You could place the angle cube somewhere on the jig that’s perpendicular to the spine of the knife and use that to find your angles. I have a Work Sharp with a similar system. You use the guide as a rough guide and the fine adjustment with an angle cube.

Good sir this video was instrumental in my purchase of the Sharpworx system, however at this point the system only comes with the magnetic system and I really want the clamping system as the magnetic system is marring my mirror finish knives. I have reached out to the proprietor of the company and he says he does not include the clamping system and has none for sale. Is there a way for me to buy one from you or do you know if any are available from other reviewers elsewhere?

Clever idea. I too sharpen with the edge facing me. Would it be possible to flip this around somehow so that the blade is facing you and the guide rod is behind the knife?

I can get an ok edge on a whetstone.. but repeating angle both sides and through multiple stones is hard...this looks like close to perfect edge every time/repeatable for a set of kitchen or other blades.. i just ordered one...99 bucks delivered..i have a 400/1000 diamond stone and leather strop already...have been eyeing a ruby stone and some japenese water stones.... Any body have any ideas on stones that go to 6000 plus grits...whats a good stone assortment for a mirror edge?

FYI, this isn't the Master 2. This is the SharpWorx Professional which is machined from aluminum. Thank you for the review.

I have the previous version to this and found many of the same problems. The only real upgrade is the bearings it seems. I managed to tweak mine down even though it was the 3d printed version, sanded smooth and used graphite in there to lube it up so even when its tight it turns well enough. The clamp seems like an upgrade but obviously it's a complete fail in this configuration but its slightly better than the old wen version that I got. I have ended up using only the magnetic clamp on mine after having to replace his rubber choice because his fell off after about a month...This clamp version with the adjustable plate actually, that definitely is an improvement I would have liked. I have found using different sized magnets as spacers works quite well as a work around. If you want to fix the tolerances on yours get rid of that stupid blocky piece of crap on the vertical rod, get yourself an 8mm to 8mm guide rod mount, and a second 8mm stopper if you have only the top one you're using here. Lock the 8x8 guide between the two stoppers. You can also use the stoppers like this as a compensator for stone thickness. Find two helping hands screw parts for 8mm rods. Put these on the horizontal rod and use the flat edge on the back of those as your angle guide base, or I suppose you could use a square dowel with steel on top and use that to set the angle cube on. I use the helping hands thing cause I can screw and lock them in tight near the clamp after using so they aren't in the way. You probably want to add about another mm or so thick piece of leather on the back plastic base to make it level too if it's like mine. Or better yet get rid of that base altogether. On his initial prototypes he used a removable base for the back vertical rod but wasn't smart enough to keep that design element, if you have the option get one though. Or make one. This will enable you to centre the whole thing better which is required for longer knives if you want any kind of real precision. I would recommend taking the magnet out and putting a weaker one back in. You can use it to suit all four primary sharpening angles of attack better than the clamped version, and as long as you tape the blade the build up hasn't caused me any problems. Like the other guy below I was designing my own version of this but then caught the sharpworx on the net, decided it's probably worth testing anyway, and i'm happy with how i've modded mine considering the base units mistakes because for systems like this theres only the russian one and the wart hog and I think this is the best choice still that you can buy. I think he can eventually make this a truly great design but he obviously has almost no sharpening experience behind him and has very low standards on what truly sharp can be. But he is making a whole lot of mistakes if you ask me so it's going to take a few years yet. Unless he has changed strategy, he is outsourcing every part instead of learning to make his own, so hes wasting money getting ripped off with other peoples markups, upgrading tiny bits of design and buying in bulk without actually finishing the prototype stage so he's left with several hundred units of beta models not really worth buying yet. Its a shame really considering the potential for the system. I might just make my own version with all the fixes this should have. When he started he was using amazon stones for crying out loud, but It seems like he has gotten some better quality stones now so I think we're waiting for his skillset to improve before the kit is upgraded to match.

Hi. At 39:50 you mention another similar system from Germany. Do you remember now what it is called?

i liked the stones you are using, can u provide links please

I have just bought this system, it is not what you show and has been really cheapened up compared to what you have. It is not as bulky and the markings on the side are not as detailed. It does not come with the clamp, only the magnetic which I feel is quite dangerous (I have nearly cut myself a couple of times getting my knife off) You can't get a refund if you have used it according to their return policy so I am stuck with it. My question is, I also use an angle cube, how did you get the angle at the knife end as the markings on mine are not accurate and if I use my angle cube to get my angle (16 degrees) the back end has to be adjusted so it is parallel which then changes the angle at the knife edge.

The play you have would be practical for the tip of the knife

SIR. that is NOT a dainty finger position. it is the proper form of an astute, distinguished gentleman.

these knife sharpeners that come with the built in level shouldn't even have em. unless every knife dimension on every knife in the world had the same dimension the built in level is useless... anyways..

Oh, you’re not wrong about the science. But you are wrong about how it pertains to sharpening knives.

10:52 and you've haven't started sharpening come on son get on with it

Twenty minutes in before doing anything whatsoever. And Yes, a fixed angle sharpener takes care fo the tip just fine Sir. You do not lift the stone up for the tip of the blade if using a fixed angle sharpener. If you do it rounds the tip! So much of this vid is just plain wrong. KnifeMaker

Yeah, Nope... This is not the contraption to buy if you wanna sharpen pocket knives, it has absolutely no benefit over a jig system. Who uses wet stones anyways. This would have been cool like 20 years ago.

20 minutes in still not sharping