Like a dog seeing a squirrel during a recall.

I was like cmon dude ... but i get it lol

I appreciate this a lot I am considering a puppy and have been watching these videos and my Hope is for that same indifferent reaction. Our current dog is that way and it makes having him very enjoyable

@@jennjackson4386 I really love it, and as she gets older it just gets better. My dog is the first one I've ever raised, it was a lot of hard work and we didn't have the opportunity to use another dog as a distraction. You'll have a great advantage having another dog in the household to practice with. I wish you luck on a new future puppy!

Thanks. I just need to walk into other room all the time. One time I got up to leave he bit my butt. But I ignored it and left.

Faith in handler drills. Your dog will become convinced you'll protect her because the drills _shows_ her that you can protect her. It's an exercise Jay Jack came up with and I use it a lot with nervous dogs who need convincing the handler is up to the job. It builds your confidence as much as your dog's. With cat chasing, that's going to be harder to sort out. I would employ a good balanced trainer and probably an ecollar. Ecollars are GREAT for nervous dogs. It builds confidence quickly.

Thank you for your reply I will look up The Faith In Handler . I always say to my children that I'm no good for her due to my anxieties over her reactivity . I'm working on my assertiveness and confidence hopefully that will make a big difference in her behaviour.

Ask Bentley for calming behaviors when he's likely to get excited (sit-stay/down-stay) and tell people directly not to pet your dog. "Sorry, my dog's in training and MUST NOT BE TOUCHED OR APPROACHED". I turn my back on people and focus 100% on my dog. I put myself in between the approaching person and my dog and orientate to keep the person to my back whilst telling them to "back off" or "go away please" and walk away if needed. Sometimes I'll wear a hi-vis jacket with "dog in training" in big letters on it. I've also carried a riding crop to create space.

Lying down when a bus goes by is a good problem to have. Chasing or worse is a serious issue. I wouldn't worry too much about it.

I wear my dog out with training, having them learn something can really wear them out. 20 minute walk or 20 minutes training, the training tires him out more than the walk.

Patience, understanding and lots of encouragement for doing the right thing. Restrict freedom as much as possible to prevent bad habits starting and only give freedom as the dog shows he can handle it. It's never too late. You've got the perfect opportunity to introduce the rules with a dog who has no experience. Don't wait for mistakes to happen, train what you want right from the start. Use baby gates, leashes and a crate to restrict access.

Cap the barking. Train them to bark on cue - "speak" and reward. The next stage is to train "quiet" which is where you cue "speak", don't reward, then wait for the barking to stop and reward instead. Once the dogs can follow the cues reliably you can use those cues to control the barking after triggers. Let them bark twice and then cue them for "quiet" and reward. You can then use corrections to enforce the "quiet" cue. By moving the barking from a habitual response to an operrant behavior, the dogs become more concsiously aware of the barking and more able to control it, which in turn enables you to get it under control. Then if you do need to use a bark collar, it will work much better because the dog understands what the correction relates to.

Handling drills. Get your dog comfortable with you handling him like a vert would. Check ears, eyes, feet, legs etc and reward for letting you do it. Go to the vets and do some basic training in the waiting room, play games and leave. Do this over and over until he's more comfortable just visiting the vet and not getting treatment. Then make a fake appointment and practice a basic exam. Keep it brief and positive and leave. Vets are almost always a negative experience for our dogs because we only ever go when they need injections or the like. Changing that association to be a neutral or good thing is very helpful.

Correct him when he bites the leash and your hand, or anything that isnt appropriate with a leash pop.

Trust takes time and proof. You need to _show_ your dog you can be relied on. Don't feel guilty, you can't undo the past. What's done is done and how you deal with the fallout is what matters now. Dogs WANT to trust so they just need an opportunity to feel they can trust. You know when that dog puts his trust in you because you see it and feel it. He looks to you for guidance, he follows what you say, he pushes through challenges because you're there to support him. Example: a dog has an issue walking on a particular surface. I don't buy into his fear. I know 100% nothing bad will happen so I take a lead and apply pressure in the direction of the floor, dog takes a step towards the floor, pressure comes off and I reward with food etc. We keep doing this - pressure - dog moves - release from pressure - reward. I might stand behind the dog and prevent him from moving backwards and only give him the option to move towards the floor, reward and celebrate any progress. It's just like when as a kid you want to jump from a low branch of a tree but you're scared so you hesitate and have to pyche yourself up. The longer you hesitate, the harder it gets. If someone was to simply push you off the branch you'd find out you had nothing to worry about and that a low branch is easy to jump from. Next time you try the same jump, you're more confident and don't hesitate as much or at all. I hope that makes sense.

Yes, you're giving him a reaction so his behavior is "working" in his mind. Get up and walk away rather than pushing him away. Don't get into a fight (conflict). Frustration (irritation) has no place in dog training. Walk away, calm yourself down, regroup and try again. Leave the room and shut the dog in if you need to. If whenever he gets in your space, you leave, he'll learn that being pushy = you go away.

How can you have 2 sisters a month apart? That is not possible.

@@simonjeakings5433 same dad.. different moms

My dog and a great Danes where getting along sitin9next to each other , they both were on leashes, the owner of the Danes gave the command get him , thank God I was able to pull my dog away!! What is wrong with people?? I will never allow my dog to get near any dog again! With the exception of family members dogs!!

@@medusathecanecorso3465 I am so sorry. I'm glad you were able to get your dog & yourself away.

I totally agree! Dog park ruined my pitbull... just one bad day....shes now super crazy dog aggressive and can’t be around any dogs she doesn’t know. Very sad.

Report the owner, cities take these reports very seriously, after the second or third time they will take the dog. Since he told the dog to attack that is also called assault.

@@mariabohaty6596 I'm sorry, this is exactly how she became. I hope you are able to get your baby back calm.

I've never met a dog with ZERO food motivation. It might appear that way, but all dogs are motivated to eat at some point. Try lots of different treats - chicken, turkey, cheese, carrots, steak, ham, fish etc. Puppy might be too distracted and just needs some time to settle in. You can also start using his meals if you want to go that far. A hungry dog is more likely to take food treats. Also get puppy checked for any medical condition that might be causing the issue.

I’m not Larry but I can tell you what Phoenix and I did… Phoenix was two years old when I met him and his previous handler. Up to that point all of their training had been accomplished through real world immersion. Over the next three years I would occasionally endeavor to teach the dog something with food however his owner was opposed so it never went very far. Fast forward to the autumn of 2017… The dogs handler was becoming less stable and the dog came into my care full-time. I took what I knew about clicker training with a puppy and just began from scratch. BTW: I do not use a clicker device held in my hand. I need my hands for other things. I put my tongue into the hollow of the roof of my mouth and make a double click sound. It rather closely resembles the sound made by the handheld device. 1) in order for the dog to be food motivated it has to be hungry. With a puppy you would need to check with your veterinarian for a feeding schedule. With Phoenix being as mature as he was I simply weaned him down to eating only once daily. That puts training time at his most hungry time of the day. 2) The food reward has to be enticing enough to overcome most distractions. Currently our heavy distraction food reward is raw bison. We roll it out 1/4 inch thin on parchment paper, than freeze it. Next we cut it into 3/8 inch strips. Finally we cut it into 3/8 inch cubes. I store it the freezer and transfer a fistful into a tiny portable container. I feed it with a fork that has been cut down to only 2 fork tines. 3) for the first few sessions, maybe even the first week, I would simply take a few minutes, two or three times a day, click and give a goodie. In no time at all I could make the click sound and the dogs head would flip around expecting a goodie. 4) The next step was to wait for eye contact, say his name, give a goodie. 5) pretty soon the dog is watching your every move and notices when you go for the goody container. Additionally his name now has a very positive association. NOW training can begin. Ending a session... toss 3 to 5 goodies onto the floor and say “all done” than walk away and make yourself otherwise busy

Do you mean chasing squirrels ?

Dustin Mitchell that is SO SWEET! (Had to tell you that, call me crazy but its just bc I lost my husband this past October..we bought a rottie puppy just 2 months prior to his sudden heart attack) we both would watch Larry together..

@@mariabohaty6596 I love watching Larry's content he's been the most informative trainer to watch. he does awesome work