Are you getting the full 19 advance on the timing light when you rev it?

@@Dazza. yeah that’s what I mean. Total advance is around 30 or should be locked in at 30 then vacuum acc is 19.?… never tore into a distributor before and played with it like this. If I hook full vacuum up on it, doesn’t backfire or anything. Just really seems like it’ll have no acceleration after 4800-5k… when it should keep going straight to redline, one would think anyways…

@@SmudgyContent so you are 10 at idle, 30 at 2500rpm, that’s ok. The vacuum advance only advances the curve at part throttle the centrifical advance kicks in. What carb are you running?

That is redline. Get valve float after that​@@SmudgyContent

Yes, it deletes the vacuum advance. Your spring tension will be your advance now.

Excellent..i thought so..thanks for your response and i appreciate your channel,so good ✌

closertothetruth the dremel is great for this sort of work.

modern fuel burns at a different rate than old style super made in 1970s. the pressure from combustion of it builds in the cylinder differently so the spark needs to arrive earlier to get, for want of a better word the same "push". This means the advance settings in the factory workshop manual for idle (initial advance 5 BTDC) and total advance at 3500 usually about 34* BTDC are not useful. with modern fuel you need to set up with 10-15 at idle which would give 39 -44 at 3500 which is too much at the 3500 rpm end of things. Hence you restrict the total advance possible that the distributor can pull in... if you restrict your distrubutot to say 6-7 degrees only. it will add in 12-14 degrees when you spin the engine up from idle to 3500 thus if your initial was 15 you end up with a total of 27-29... which is what you might want on a 12.5:1 Compression hemi 6 with dcoe webers. the more efficient your engine is, the less help it needs to spin up hence you use less advance in the distributor. distributor runs off the cam not the crank, a 1 degree twist of the upper armature in the distributor translates to 2* of advance at the mark on the harmonic damper/timing cover. Its easy to use a degree wheel and pointer on your distrbutor to check how far the upper armature can twist before it hits you new welded up STOP, just file it back to where you need it. You end up removing about half the possible movement. US Mopar distributor is different, you can buy bolt in restrictor kit . This method works on 1960s 70s bosch. results in a perfect idle. no smell of fuel at idle no black tail pipe end and a nice quick accleration, with no hesitation. best mod you can do to an old car running new fuel.

Iam having that problem now with a new built engine with mild cam. Engine missing when going higher revs