Just did one of these today, you don't need to remove motor mounts, driveshafts, oxygen sensors, fan shroud, the tire, exhaust, tail lights, sunroof, or anything else anyone says has to come off. Only things that need to be removed are the two plates under it, plastic and aluminum skid, 1 bolt for the wiring loom near it and take the clip in the middle off before tugging and twisting. Some tips: It comes out from the back, it goes in starting at the back. Take the old one off without cutting it out like people suggest. That way you end up twisting/tugging/and shaking it out and can just reverse the process and yes it is a nightmare thats pretty much impossible to explain in steps. It's easier to pound on the old one and get an idea of the process to put it back in so you're not beating the shit out of the new one. This goes quite a bit easier with one person in front and one in back, it can be done alone though. At one point pulling it out, when the rear metal/hose connection is in the motor mount you may think it's stuck and need to shove it back and try something else. You need to kind of jiggle it back and fourth short and fast creating like a kind of vibration and it slowly comes out little by little then pops out. When you start getting pissed off stop, take a moment and look at the hose it's curves and the hole and think about your next move, imagine where everything will go if you pulled it this way, or twisted it that way. Make small goals like getting it out or putting it back in an inch at a time and slowly you get there. Take the clip off the new one before you even try to contort the damn thing back through, mount it back on when the hoses are hooked back up. Tape the caps on and aluminum block up before trying to wiggle the new one through or you're going to end up with clumps grease/dirt and assorted other shit inside the new one. Have booze nearby cause if it's your first one of these you will want drink heavily when it's over. Oh and that damn bolt holding the middle clip on. 2 people or you'll want to hang yourself after a few hours. 13mm socket connected to a ujoint then like 2 feet of extensions. 1 guy with the ratchet from the wheel well and another guy under the truck getting and keeping the socket on the bolt.

Spent one hour on this job and realized I needed research and came to these videos. Read the comments. The next day, I spent an hour and a half and the lines were swapped. Disconnect nothing at all except the oil cooler lines at both ends including the bracket in the middle. Radiator lines come towards the ground by shuffling, rotating, maneuvering and positioning the engine end of the cooler lines through the engine mount area. At one point, moving the lines towards the rear, I had to rotate the engine end of the lines near the transmission, but the key is to remove the entire oil cooler line on the left side of the drivetrain. Not the right. The new lines go in the same way on the left side of the drivetrain and reverse procedure. Expect to be greasy, patient and with a love for mechanics to do this job this way.

Did this job in under an hour... 4x4 model front pumpkin, drive shaft and exhaust in the way... Start by discounting the two front lines from the cooler. Then pop them both off the retaining clip, look at the new lines to see how to pop the lines off the clip. Now you can access the 13mm bolt from under the front of the vehicle. Remove the bolt get the clip off you will need every MM of space to pull this off. Next go to the back area where the block is bolted to the engine and remove the O2 sensor right behind it. Remove the two bolts that hold the block with the lines connected to it there's also a metal gasket get that off too if it gets stuck to the block , I think 10mm on those bolts. All this time taking note how the line is routed. Now cut the rubber part of the lines from the front go back under and pull the block\lines backwards towards O2 sensor you removed it will come out pretty easy since you don't have to deal with the bent lines in the front. You could also just cut the lines everywhere to get them out easier if they get stuck. Now take off the two rubber connection protectors off the new lines and save them for later. Tape off the two push in front connectors and the mating surface of the block, also on he new lines, tape them well to protect them they will take a beating. Take the clip off the new lines also. Install the new lines in from the back towards the front. Here is the main trick when pushing and routing the lines from underneath you can actually position yourself to reach around and push you hands into the motor mount area and grab the ends to help push\pull and feel what your doing with them to help manipulate them. This part took me 5 min, this is the part I'm sure everyone struggles hours with. Just pushing them from the back side would make it very very difficult. Basically I was grabbing the back of the lines and the front of the lines at the same time and just twisted and pulled them through, very easy with two hands working together. PS no lift just a jack and a jack stand, not very long arms either so anyone can do this.

Well I just finished this aggravating job. Unfortunately it was on my driveway, floor jack and two jack stands. Not sure the magic some of you used. But I did cut the line so much easier. Removed tire, radiator shroud, inner wheel well. About 7 hrs later including going to get the part it was finished and all buttoned up. Thanks for your posts.

I wanted to let you know that these comments saved me some time/frustration. I removed the front driveshaft and o2 sensor and then fed everything in from the rear. 20 minutes to remove the old one and 20 minutes to push in the new one. I had my truck on a lift which made a huge difference for angles and wiggle room, but it may be doable from the ground too.

Thanks for making this video man.

Ok guys, here's my post. Thanks for the upload 🤝 Ok guys I was able to make my post.

Fixed my leak, thanks for the advice on not changing the lines and just the gasket. Still leaked after the gasket, realized it was the plug on side of the mounting block that attaches to the motor. Cut a piece off of a 3/8 allen wrench to tighten in place on the truck.

Thanks! I just did this on a 2002 Yukon Denali AWD with the 6.0 engine. I did NOT: raise engine, drop axle, disconnect driveshaft. I DID: take skid plate off, and loosen wire harness in front of route for lines to get more space. This is one bolt (wire harness) which I saw in a different video. Also was able to talk to a GM mechanic who said you can route these through but it is difficult. Took my a while but next time I could do it more quickly. Routed the new lines back to front. Some rotation necessary. Generally routed them as close to the center of vehicle as possible within the route. Put cardboard against radiator fins to protect them from lines when installing/routing. To remove old lines, clipped rubber hoses with garden shears and cut tubbing near engine connection with reciprocating saw. To get fan off held water pump "pulley" with strap "wrench" (one other video a guy used chain wrench). Replaced water pump at the same time......no more oil leaks or antifreeze leaks. That bolt for the bracket holding the lines is a challenge. Loosened while under car mainly with feel. Then removed through the wheel well with the driver's side front jacked up. Put it back through wheel well with "wobble" socket attachment fitting and then discovered I could get at it from the top with a 3/8 inch flex head socket drive. Still difficult. I did not have a lift. Used jack stands and jacked up driver's side front.

Mine was leaking at the crimp where line is pressed to block. I cut the lines about 6” towards engine and removed leaking block. Harvested a block from a new line set with lines cut as needed and used 1/2” compression couplers to connect. Some fiddling but 1 hour job. Rest of line set was in excellent condition. No leaks.

I have the same set from Dorman and it came with new clips .

Thanks for the tip. Just picked up the gasket for 6$. I'll try that first

Just completed oil lines. It is difficult but i removed power steering pump and fan and front drive line at differential and feed line from back to front went easy. 13 mm 1/4" drive reach in from front to get at middle bolt. Also power steering hoses are to be changed every 20,000 mile, i know but that is what they say. Just bit the bullet and stop the leaks. Have fun and it didnt take me 2hr. Im a plumber

have 2001 gmc 2500 hd 4x4 with the 6.0 just did this job you must take the clip off that holds the two lines then you can wiggle the lines out the back side. might cut them to make it a less of a pain to get out . I did take inner wheel well out so I could get to things better. you don't need to drop driveshaft or loosen any motor mounts and jack up motor like some say . take clip off new lines then route them in from back side of motor between driveshaft and exhaust run them under motor mount and hook up lines. I ended up leaving the clip off the lines myself . hope this helps some folks . I will also post a vid soon

got that snow coming your way mossman

I've seen the oil pressure sensor on the back of the intake leak too. Ha I think it was that , it's been a while. I don't want to do that one. Nice vid..

I've thought about doing this factory mod on my 06 4x4 Yukon with the 5.3 next time I replace my radiator. I've always known running the metal lines was the hardest part. About the oil pan, I know on my 2wd 5.3 GMC sierra GM removed the oil pan and replaced it under warranty when my truck was new; they simply unbolted the cross member. I haven't paid attention to my Yukon with the 4wd and torsion bar set up.

Just finished this repair. It’s 4 bolts to drop the diff about an inch, get the fan cowl out and then take the front driveshaft loose and it makes this significantly easier. I also pulled the tire and plastic wheel well out so I could get at it from that side. If you can phone a friend for feeding the lines through, it’ll make it way easier to have a person at each end. Also I fed the lines under the front bumper, then brought them around between the radiator and the fan. Saves you from having to bend your hard lines at all. This repair is a brass plated bitch. Don’t take it lightly.

Also that 13mm bracket bolt you get from wheel well. It's right under block ground. 24 inch extension.

This was a bit of a hassle to say the least. I ended of cutting the old line out because I was getting flustered trying to wiggle it out. I have a 03 sliverado 6.0 and to get the new line in I took the front driveshaft out of the yolk on the front axle. I just let it rest on the exhaust pipe, I didnt need to take it completely out. That gave me a straight shot, and after about 3 hours of wiggling I was able to get it in. In short not a fun job.

Just did this myself with the transmission out for rebuild. No need to drop anything but that 13mm bolt took an hr to put back on….lol

I did these on a 2003 2500. I removed the front drive shaft, that helped with access but still a pain to do

OMG this was the most irritating replacement I had ever done. But now (knock on wood) I should be able to clean all the years of crude off the underside to see if I a leak free. Thank you for the video and the heads up on the painful install.

Wow, that looked like a PITA! It's funny how oil seeps down all the cracks and crevices until it finds a place to drip so it makes it so hard to pinpoint. They make a dye you can add to help find leaks but you need the UV light too. Pulling the motor wouldn't be a bad idea if you're planning on keeping it for a few years.

ready for the snow tomorrow

Just did mine yesterday, it's a pain but it fits barely. lol

Is there a screw on the side of the cooler I just found out mine is dripping is it the gasket or the lines

Did you put the replacement line in from the front of the truck or the back of the truck?

Quick Tip. I've done these. Mitchell gives 1.90 hours plus an additional .30 for skid plate. The only way to achieve this time is lowering the front differential (4 bolts) and remove front half of the t-case driveshaft. Literally 1 turn and the lines are out. No fighting. And I agree its Bullshit that the dealer does not provide new clips.

Go in through the engine bay to unbolt the 13mm bolt in the bracket. it's impossible underneath if you have an AWD Denali.

When I did mine, I found the plug in the back of the block for the cooler lines had a leaking gasket. I didn’t need the whole line set.

The leak above the starter could possibly be the crankshaft position sensor. It has an o ring that gets brittle. If you replace it and don't have it calibrated, the new one it will throw P0300 random misfire code.

Would that leak be noticeably big puddle or something small ?

I just had this done on my 05 Silverado 2500hd, cost me $507.00 ,they used gm parts which was 3 times more than advance auto. I have already had to have all break lines and trans cooling lines replaced because they all rotted out, still need all the power steering lines and one ac line which blew out last summer after finally replacing the wiring harness for the heater fan that burned up,i know it was a recall but my truck apparently wasn't affected by the recall.. i had all 4 calipers and rotors replaced 3 times in rear and 2 times in front and now have a left front caliper seizing and had to have the exhaust manifolds replaced which already look like they are 20 years old. I have owned many vehicles in my life and have never seen anything like this and my truck hasn't even seen 60,000 miles yet and don't even want to talk about the po300 code...LOL

I took mine out after pulling the oil filter. With some twisting and fiddlefocking, it came right out

I know this old but my lines came with new clips. I think because of how they package it they can easily fall out in transit.

I know this video is old but could i install these same lines on a 5.3 2wd 1500 truck? Im upgrading my radiator and water pump so I’d have more room to work with and by looking at my oil pan there is a block off plate on top of my oil filter where they could bolt on to.

I like what your doing with this truck are you gonna store your dully for the winter? That what I'm doing with my cummins I bought a winter beater blow truck for 500$ and fixing it up. Also you should make a video on how to mount and wire light cube reverse lights.

I had a leak at the quick connects at the radiator and put an oil cooler delete kit. Just a plate with a channel that covers the holes on the block and connects them to make a circuit. I don't tow very often...

Had I known how stupid this job was, I would never have done it. I did figure it out though. All I did was disconnect the front of the front driveshaft and I was able to do it. It was 10x harder getting the old one out, ended up bending the shit out of it in the process. The new one slid right in, my only issue was getting the top line to go up between the motor and radiator vs straight forward or down. I did it alone in just under 3 hours. If you don't do any heavy duty stuff, I would recommend just getting a blockoff/bypass plate and call it a day. Wouldn't even have to fully remove the old line.

So tell me what would a job like that cost parts and labor

We're there any o rings or seals in the connections to the radiator? Ive had a steady drip at the connection since I replaced the radiator, the lines are in good shape too.. I would really appreciate your help this leak is very unsightly..

might want to take a look at that front brake line under the rad running to the passenger side looks really crusty,Also the oil leak is definitely the rear main

I have an 11 awd denali and it looks like I might be able to slip in from the top.

Your supposed to drop the front axle diff loosening the bolts but not all the way

Someone opened that package. I just got the same part and it had 2 caps and 2 new clips.

loosen the diff bolts on that side so they are hangin by a couple threads and the lines come out much easier

Did you switch out the o-rings at the radiator or just use the same ones and clipped back in the new lines?

Do they purge air through automatically when the oil pump works?

I just did this this weekend. It was such a frustrating task getting the old line out and new one in. Trying to get all those bends thru the engine mount was insane. We ended up taking the front driveline off and the 02 sensor on the drivers side so that I could twist the block around and worked it through. After I got it all back together, the lower mount leaked and spewed out oil all over the ground. I put the clips back in but something didnt seal right. I am frustrated to hell right now and thinking about just installing a stand alone oil cooler with proper worm gear hose clamps.

My 5.3 does not have the oil cooler line. Do the 6.0s even need it? You could just install the block plate like the 5.3 and eliminate the additional leak point altogether

I’m doing one right now I can’t get the new one in

You mentioned the o rings may need to be replaced. Did they send new ones or were the old ones o k

Did you drain all of your oil before hand

Pull drivers inner fender way more access pull the 3 bolts out of engine mount jack engine up on exhaust cross over pipe it comes rite out

remove the 3 outer motor mount bolts,Jack up motor,can fit cooler thru.

Just did this horrific replacement.. ill throw in my 2 cents. Set your vehicle on javk stands and grab another jack place it on the oil pan with a 2x4 or something similar. Raise the jack and that will creat the space you need to feed the lines through. After i did this took me less than 30 mins. Didn't have to drop the pumpkin at all

Mine is liking from the allen bolt they don’t sell just the o ring from that allen bolt? 😩

I chased same type of leak. Oil pressure sending unit and lifter valley cover gasket... It still leaked 😭 it was the rear main seal

Dorman lasted 2 years before it started leaking. 3 years needed clamps now leaking bad AC Delco now

This should be much easier on a 2wd truck right?

Did you have to drain the oil first?

You sound like Freddy Roach

my line has a hole , I think I might get my mechanic buddy to do it at his shopim not too sure if I can fix this in my driveway

Did you get a fel pro gasket or the original

Are they gm lines or aftermarket?

What the torque spec for the two bolts

So you were able to get to the bracket bolt through the front end? Someone says wheel well, someone says drop the axle. What a pain

I thnk I need a new oil pan now.

For the HD series of trucks, the oil cooler is probably very useful, especially if towing heavy loads. On my Escalade, I just bought a block off plate. $15, and done. Getting the old lines out of the way enough to install the block off plate was a pain. I still have the lines in the truck. I need to cut them up, and pull them out. I think the actual install procedure calls for dropping the front differential a few inches, and unhooking the motor mount, and jacking up the engine on the driver's side. It really makes it not worth it to replace these cooler lines. Just block it off, and save yourself a lot of hassle.

Also should replace jiffy tite connections at radiator

Once again the GM engineers make this job a pain for a guy to do this job in a home shop.

IS there a reason just a gasket replacement wouldn't fix this?

There’s no reason why you can’t reuse the old clips on the cooler lines at the Radiator connection. As long as you don’t destroy them while pulling them out, it’s just spring steel. they don’t rust. Also, there’s no need to remove that 13 mm bolt, holding the clip to the side of the block either. The cooler line simply snap out of that clip and pop back in when you put the new one in just remember to remove the new clip on the new line before slipping it through and reuse the old clip that still bolted to your block. It’s a simple as that .

change the valley pan gasket and the oil sending unit.

It's the line block thats leaking I did mine gasket that wasn't it

I have oil in the radiator and low of oil in the pan

Use some brake cleaner to clean up the area to help diagnose where the leak is coming from after you replaced the oil lines

I just did this and it was a bitch well went and helped somone on one and it was a bitch win the dont remove the shit that needs to be taken off so if i was anyone else i would do it the easy way

Why not spray the bottom of the truck down with degreaser, clean it really well, and run it for 15 mins or so until you see a drip? It looks like oil is coming from about 10 different places and with it so dirty under there it will be hard to pinpoint

Well thanks for nothing. "I don't know how I got them in there." For the record, remove LH motor mount pins and lift the left side of the engine about 1-2".

Why cant you just change the gasket

You guys are all self-masochists. Just cut the tubing back 3-5" from the manifold elbow and about the same from the fittings that come out of the radiator. Do a bubble flare. Slip on some quality high-temp rated hose (Parker or Gates, etc.) and stainless steel Made-In-Usa hose clamps. Done.

i just changed all three transmission lines tonight , stupid clips !!!!!!!!!!!

oil cooler lines were leaking on my 6.0 liter dualie, another shitty GM design

drop the diff down

i cant stand that yes put the new clips in like WTF.. you have new lines so the gally Oring should not be bad? hmm i have seen the wrong gasket to the block before idk

Dorman should thank GM for this crappy design. They’ve made a killing in aftermarket industry on these things. The transmission cooler lines also. It’s stupid GM has used this same basic shit design for decades. And yeah when I did mine I got both the GM and Dorman parts. The GM parts were packaged like crap (ends not taped, just thrown in a box, etc) and didn’t come with new clips. The dorman parts appeared much higher quality for cheaper so I installed the Dorman lines and got a refund on the GM parts.