Absolutely. They have much more potential for a competitive track car than the earlier ones. I can list some features off the top of my head. - Multi link rear suspension opens up anti dive and anti roll geometry. - can fit MUCH larger wheels and tires without even rolling the fenders. - 10x17's fit with minor fender roll. No need for cutting and adding flares. - much superior engine. All aluminum, handles a decent amount more power than the earlier cars. - fully stock engine, stock cams and valve springs can rev to 8,000RPM for extended periods reliably. - always comes with vvt-i. - NC 6speed transmissions hold more torque than the na/NB 6spds. :) - beautiful forged aluminum front control arms. Don't have to worry about rust as much. - much more rigid chassis. You can literally add every chassis bolt on for the na/NB that's available. Roll bar, frame rails, frog arms, butterfly brace, diff brace, etc and guess what... The NC will still be more rigid AND at that point, it will be lighter. lol - power retractable hard top as an option. Nuff said ;) oh and heated seats IN A MIATA! - traction control on/off button. - ABS brakes standard. - OEM radiator is a cross flow design. You know how much it costs to get a cross-flow radiator in an NA/NB? Just look at supermiata's cross-flow radiator. Thing is costly!! - the ability to tune/flash the stock ECU. Saves time and money from needing to use a standalone ECU. - the NC also comes with a wideband sensor from the factory. More cost savings. - lighter wheels, less unsprung weight. - the timing chain is self maintained by oil pressure. Never needs replaced. - the oil pump is different, doesn't need to be upgraded to avoid splitting gears. - 2.0l aluminum block > 1.8l iron block. Lighter, better cooling, and last but not least. The rotating assembly is strapped down with a crank girdle plate. No more individual main caps to split when spinning high RPM or high boost. Now folks those are just some reasons off the top of the head for why the NC has the most potential for a competitive sports car. The NA/NB will ALWAYS be amazing in its own way. It's probably the most enjoyable car to drive from a pure enjoyment standpoint. Lighter out of the box, extreme aftermarket support in every category, theyre great cars. classics. Not trying to take anything away from them. I'm simply saying the NC is no boat haha. It's actually the opposite

Yeah I think we only have one option though. Have you done any research?

@@ZentRose Yeah there's one Hard Dog on Flyin Miata for a PRHT that let's you keep a lot of the interior/roof functionality, doesn't have the angled bars for more support though. I have another Hard Dog on my NB and the fitment was great. Hopefully this is good as well, was probably planning on doing that in the future.

Sweet, I'll take a look at it. It's probably a lot better than the factory hoops

dont get a prht if you plan on making it a track car. the rollbars are lower. Will be okay for HPDE but not for any SCCA/NASA competition. It's also heavier by about 100lb.

Absolutely. I'd buy RN

I just put in Royal Purple Gear Max and I'm having great results compared to the 3 year old motorcraft fluid

This would be the car to learn on for changing out a clutch. It is not a bad job if you have the extensions, transmission jack and bearing puller. Also, with the ebay clutch kits I have had the bearings fail within 10,000 miles so I like to buy OEM bearings. Good Luck

Just saw them 😆 good and informative 👍 btw

Have you decided? If so how’s it going?

@@Dyltheboy I used a flyin miata stage 1 kit. Worked good for about a year until I wrecked the car. OEM feel and bearings were in great shape

@@adamwest519 damn, how’d you wreck?

@@Dyltheboy deer jumped out in front of me, I swerved and hit a guardrail head on

Gear chatter or engagement chatter? This clutch was pretty terrible with chatter, I switched out for an ACT disc when I swapped the engine and it's all good now.

@@ZentRose Well it will chatter as I am trying to engage as well, but even at low RPMs on higher gears I hear all the way up to maybe 2-3K. As RPMs increase it goes away, its most noticeable at lower RPMs, and especially if I attempt to release the clutch without any throttle. That is when it makes the most chattering sound (basically lowest RPM possible). I recall being able to get cars into first gear without any throttle just slowly releasing the clutch but with this car I don't even risk it because the chattering/shaking gets so bad

It came on the car but I think if you search "nc Miata chrome fuel door" you will find one

No need to support the engine but definitely support the transmission when unbolting the power plant frame! Wobble extensions and the pilot bearing tool made this job super easy. Good luck!

@@ZentRose Appreciate it and good luck on the track!

I used the ebay flywheel. www.ebay.com/itm/133337525966?hash=item1f0b892ece:g:e0UAAOSw2bReS5hq The bearing puller is from harbor freight: www.harborfreight.com/slide-hammer-and-bearing-puller-set-5-pc-62601.html

Thank you for the quick response! Please keep us posted and don't forget to make a follow up video on how the set performed, if anythinh changed, broke, etc. Your videos are super cool to watch, keep up the great work and thank you again!

@@ZentRose Hi, I am italian and I have a 2.0 NC Miata, I have seen this video and I subscribe your channel cause is very useful. I have a workshop so I will make this work myself. I only would know if the clutch is good or not. I would buy a stage 2 (heavy duty spring) clutch max and a lightweight flywheel from the same seller on ebay (clutchamerica). Is it worth? or OEM Exedy clutch is better? I would buy an OEM (or SKF) thrust bearing instead mounting that one in clutchmax kit, is it the right choice? I have seen another little bearing in the kit, i think is impossible to find out of a clutch kit, should i replace it with it (in the clutchmax kit) or searching something oem or better quality? Thanks a lot for your attention, you're tips would be definitley useful! Thanks again and best regards from Italy.

@@davidgori6640 I would use oem bearings for the pilot and throwout bearing (I just ordered them through the Mazda dealer). If money isn't a problem I would recommend to use an ACT clutch. The eBay clutch discs sometimes have a bit of clutch judder.

@@ZentRose Thanks a lot. I have searched an alternative to Exedy OEM kit also because of the price (here 410€ for that). ACT kits seems expensive too, surely very good quality. Thinking that ebay stage2 kit has a stronger reinforced pressure plate that maybe avoid judder... I don't know, never tried these kits. You have tried the stage1 (like OEM) and has it judder?

Harbor freight slide hammer bearing puller tool

I just avoid launching and clutch kicking when breaking in the clutch

To me they are very similar cars. I prefer the NC chassis, brakes, steering, suspension geo, curb weight, convertible top and daily drivability. The S2000 has a better engine and interior.

@@ZentRose Interesting! I finally drove an NC on track last year. Only mods were coilovers, slight drop, and wheels/tires. I admit it was slower but WAY more fun than my ap1 + s2k. So... an F series swap into an NC would be the perfect roadster?

Yeah, the NC really needs more power. I plan to tune it to see how much I can get out of it but an engine swap would probably be the best bet. Enjoy the AP1!

it was an aftermarket exedy with light flywheel

it started chattering after 10k miles and a lot of abuse... so I threw an ACT disc in there with my last engine swap.

Thanks for the sub!