Appreciate the feedback and support. We have a handful of unique educational videos in the pipeline.

Sorry for such delayed response. But super happy to hear this feedback! We appreciate the support and getting back to us with this experience.

So happy to help! We get this issue a lot in our shop and sadly, many of the Jeeps built by local off road shops wind up here for these geometry issues. You're certainly not alone! But hopefully on the right track for a good ride!

@@PlatinumOffRoad So I have a 2020 jeep Gladiator with this problem, it looks like a 6" lift maybe. the pitman arm, tracking mount on the axle and the tracking arm look like they are part of the lift kit. Do I need to replace all 3 of them back to stock, or do I keep the adjustable tracking arm and just replace the pitman and track bar mount to stock?

@corypeterson602 the new JL and JT platform benefits from the drag link flip once you break that 5" lift range. Grab a set of Reid knuckles and do the flip. It'll be a game changer. You'll also need to raise the track bar, just like the video shows. That Reid part # is DBP-JL001R-F

Awesome to hear!!!

What size lift you got ? I got a 4 inch lift and I think I got to do the same !

@@dannyestrada4684 this Jeep was one we fixed for a dealership awhile back. Not sure I recall the lift height. When going to a 4" or above, we highly recommend doing a drag link flip kit and raised track bar bracket. Watch our "Steering Geometry" video here on our KZfaq channel.

@@dannyestrada4684 I have 3.5 Rough Country. Once I did this fix it corrected all my issues. It even corrected the track control problem that I had...

What if i have a flip kit? would I need to have raise track bar bracket?

Excellent!! So glad to hear such feedback and support for the channel!! This is exactly the reason we put in the work

Appreciate the support! Let us know how it goes. Be sure to restore track bar placement too!

when you say Restore Trackbar placement ? whay i did when took off stock TB length eye to eye 32" installed New adjustable TB to same measurement? thanks

@@gotryche73 just make sure the track bar is mounted to the factory position on both ends, if you're running a stock pitman arm. Always adjust the track bar to center the frame over the axle.. even if it's a totally different measurement from the OE.

Really appreciate the Help

Wanna say Thanks to Platinum Off Road..really helped me out with my JK, it drives like a champ now

Your drifting is most likely due to the caster setting. If it's a lifted Jeep, get the caster up in the 5-6.5 degree range and it will tame the tracking. Lower front adjustable control arms will do this for you. As for the raised track bar bracket... one Jeep did NOT have a flipped drag link. In the other video, we flipped the drag link and therefore to compliment the geometry, we also needed to reposition the track bar to match the radius planes. Allowing both the track bar AND drag link to flow in two separate radius that actually do not fight one another and cause bumpsteer. The issue with all the lift kits giving you a raised track bar bracket that goes on the axle side, is that they do not give you a drag link flip. These are sold separate from one another but often not explained that a raised track bar bracket is only done when also doing a drag link flip. To do one and not the other is going to cause conflicting radius of each component and ultimately bumpsteer.

Awesome! Thank you. I’ll get an alignment done to see where the caster is...already have SteerSmarts no drill top mount on the way...and hopefully that solves the problem. Thanks again

Very wise route!! Happy to hear you are getting things on track. We use Rubicon Express for components involved in the steering geometry process (Track Bar, Drag Link, and Tie Rod). We've never been let down and once we had an end began to show slop, they immediately sent us a new end with their lifetime warranty. Proven products at reasonable prices and great customer service!

Increase caster angle with a set of lower arms. Extend them between 3/8" to 1/2" over stock length.

Yes. Ditch ALL the RC products and return to a factory pitman arm. Go to our "Steering Geometry" video and see what we did there. If my memory serves me on the RC track bar bracket... it is still not tall enough to raise the track bar up to a proper position for the flip and you will still end up with some level of bumpsteer.

Yes. The need to relocate the drag link is to reduce the angle it sets at and brings the radius to a better spot on its flow. With a high pitched drag link and track bar, they will cause the frame to shift over bumps. The closer to level they are, the less movement. Now as for a 3.5" system, we wont address all these changes until 4.5" and higher. Even when we address it, we will never do a dropped pitman arm. We will do like our "Steering Geometry" video and do a drag link flip and a complimenting raised track bar bracket on the axle side.

Any suggestions?

That's a tough one to answer without feeling it or having more info.. So it's difficult to turn while going over the bumps? Or for a short while after the bumps?

Find us on Facebook or Instagram and send a message. Certainly willing to help. Are you near north Texas, United States?

I'm in the same boat with my 94, major difference is the YJ is on leafs so tracbar isn't really needed, TJ's are coil, so more needed, my 94 has neither tracbar or swaybar

The dropped pitman arm? Not at all. As you increase the height, you'll eventually want to convert to a flipped drag link. Usually as you break the 4.5" range.

Deathwobble on an XY y-link style steering is not due to a pitman arm style. The dropped pitman arm allows the y-link system to reduce the angle of that Y and restore strength into the tie rod unit, and eliminate excessive toe change during bumps. A slopped out system will be the cause. For TJ and XJs focus on fresh steering end links and Ball joints. Lower arms to correct caster is also a focus. The Currie CurrectLync system is a beefy version of that steering and won't allow the tie rod to bow and flex, which is also another cause of deathwobble on a lifted Jeep.

@@PlatinumOffRoad it has 1 ton steering from cav fab. Have yet to try it out on the highway but just got it back from the alignment shop

Not from what I've seen. This will be slop and very loose - delayed response to the wheels. Front end vibration is normally tire balance or front driveshaft. Look for a vibration vs shimmy. Shimmy is worn components.

Yes it can

I had unbalanced tired on a Camero years ago. It was scary how bad it wobbled.

@@jk-76 it was the beads bags that never broke in the tire and they were causing me death wobble

Hahahah wait, they literally just tossed the bag of beads in there?? Not open them and pour them in?

@@PlatinumOffRoad yeah but the company that sells them says to do so and that the bag will eventually fall apart

Based on actual experience, Rough Country uses a very low grade metal in all their products. Always has and never surprised on all makes and models

My best suggestion is to do a flip kit and raised track bar relocation to compliment the drag link flip. Watch our "Steering Geometry" video if you get the chance and it will all make sense.