IIRC there is a TDC mark on the crankshaft pulley that can be used to position the #1 cylinder at TDC. You would need to remove that front timing cover piece to be able to see that pulley and align its TDC mark though, which is a pain in the butt. An alternate approach I’ve used is to pull the spark plug out of cylinder 1 and insert something like a really long one-piece socket extension into the spark plug hole, and watch that go up and down as i rotate the engine by hand. As soon as the intake rocker on cylinder 1 completes it’s up/down sequence then the extension should be at its lowest point of travel, and further turning over of the engine will slowly raise the extension up in the cylinder as the piston is coming on compression stroke. Once the extension stops going up and starts to go down, you know you just started the power stroke, which means TDC was just there. Rotate engine back a hair to get extension at its highest point again, and that’s TDC for that cylinder (number 1).

Thank you so much very useful information 👍. As far as turning the engine all I need is either a breaker bar or ratchet with a socket correct? Will I be able to do that with the serpentine belt on or should I remove it?

@@sergiosanchez4967 a breaker bar or stout enough ratchet will do it, you’ll just need to find a socket that will fit one of the accessory pulley bolts or the crankshaft bolt. Start the engine and watch the serpentine belt’s direction of travel to know which way to manually spin the engine with the ratchet and socket. (Seems like it spins counterclockwise, but I can’t recall for sure; definitely verify that with it running and observing the belt’s direction of travel).

Thank you so much this will save me a ton of money!!! Keep up the great work with the informative videos and feedback!!👍👍

@@sergiosanchez4967 Oh yeah, one more tip/trick: if you are having to spin the engine over manually with a breaker/ratchet, remove all the spark plugs first. Spinning it with the plugs still in the heads means you will fight the cylinders’ compression each time the pistons go upward. That requires extra effort to overcome as you turn it by hand obviously. Spinning the engine without the plugs in it is much easier to do when doing it by hand, not nearly as much resistance for each turn of the ratchet/breaker bar.

I honestly did not know replacing those hydraulic lash adjusters in the rockers was doable. If one will not pump up though, it’s got to be a constricted/restricted oil flow issue in the rocker arm I would think. You say the side to side play in the rockers isn’t bad, but I don’t think there is supposed to any really IIRC. If the rocker of the lifter in question has any play side to side, that would be my first suspect for the cause. What about swapping that noisy lifter with another one and seeing if the noise follows that lifter? If it doesn’t, you know the problem is at the rocker in question.

San Juan - this video was made for someone driving a Dodge Challenger with the 3.5L engine

Do you know what the ball park # is for a repair?

Eduardo Arana - as in how much to repair? Well, the parts alone will be $250 or so for a new rocker arm assembly, $500 for 2 (if doing both sides). I can’t say how much someone would charge in labor to replace them for you, but probably an hour at least, which is usually about $120/hr; double that if doing both sides. It’s not hard to do the labor yourself if you are mechanically inclined. I can provide a link to a write up on the steps to replace them (I think I have it somewhere) if you want.