What kind of saw are you using?

No they are covered by shingles.

Thanks Josh and.great video. I did run into the same thing when checking a.house for mold. Five vent.and.no holes.

Sorry for the late response on this, I did not see this message. Yes you can, it's not a problem to have a small Gap. The biggest thing is to notch the top corner to an angle. So water doesn't trickle along the top.

Hey, Takoda with StormShield here. At minimum you want 1 per 300 sq ft. It would be safe to go with 2.

I have seen that done but I think it's kind of an eyesore. there is some sort of vent that gets cut into the bottom lower edge of your roof and is installed while Roofing to allow air intake. I'm not sure what it's called though.

@@GrandRoofingInc It's called edgevent. You apply double I&W (underneath and at top of EV) so a bit of additional charge but relatively is fairly reasonable. It also can be aesthetically unpleasing to some as you will notice the raised first course more than normal even when it's able to be applied right near the eave. On some older homes with extended soffits you'll see them installed higher up and it it can be significantly more unappealing as it really stands out (looks like an additional mouth/eyebrows in those situations) however it does get the job done and dramatically improves airflow when otherwise there's not many cost effective options. Here in Ohio most homeowners are okay signing a waiver for us on ventilation and prefer not to properly ventilate while understanding the risks of warranty issues if needed, and lessened expected lifespan (This also could be due to us not being too aggressive on pushing the ventilation. We simply share, advise, but ultimately allow h/o to decide) However on those that want to have as close to optimal ventilation as possible this is often the best and most cost effective way. Hope this helps and keep crushing it!

Depending upon if you have attic access and the load it's carrying, you can scissor new lumber next to the one you cut. Use large framing nails or bolt it together.

CRIKEY😂

It's not necessary. The paper is installed as underlayment. The vent should go under the shingles for the reason you described above

ha ha ha, its designed not to.... that would be such a mess!!

@Peter Sekh Personal advice is to work for a company that has achieved a similar level of what your long term goals are for awhile and learn underneath them. In order to be financially viable over an extended period of time your pricing will likely need to be significantly higher than you're anticipating. That is, if you plan on building up a team, office staff, and taking on the responsibility of having dozens of families relying on you for income to provide for them. If you're aiming for that type of business you'll quickly realize how little your personal finances end up mattering to you when you see how many really need you. Take good care of those people, they're trusting you. If you're just looking to make enough for yourself as a "handyman" or "smaller team" for lack of better words then you may be able to offer a lower price to "get your foot in the door" so to say. Some homeowners want an established company understanding it'll cost more yet have a more likely guaranteed outcome of success, and some will be willing to help a young businessperson get started, understanding the risks involved. (This is a generalized statement). When we started nearly a decade ago we were slightly underpricing however it gave us opportunities to practice and hone our craft. For pricing for us in ohio (we'd also do the install slightly different and we also likely have more overhead) however we would need to charge approx $750 for a single vent install like this, possibly up to $1k depending on various factors (age of roof, pitch, height, etc.). Another VERY important word of advice for anyone else reading this comment, understand you likely will not make much, if ANY money for an extended period of time (unless you're a sub, and even then it's iffy). You or your team members will make many mistakes that you'll need to pay for, you will have a "bad apple client" who will take advantage, but moreso you're likely vastly underestimating the amount of capital successful marketing takes up. (word of mouth for a new business nowadays only takes you so far, the internet has changed the world alot). In addition, think of how much time goes into install a project (if you are planning on doing the work), and then how much time goes into sales. And then the marketing. The growth planning (if desires of that). Who's going to answer the phone on the first rings? (Can you while working or selling?) Paying your accountant (although canada may be diff than u.s. there), insurance, phone staff, even small expenses like gsuite or whatever you'll use. CRM (which you'll need but they're all very expensive, I recommend JobNimbus for a startup since relatively cheap). With all that said, if you understand what you're getting into and are ready to put in the 80 hours/week during season for literal pennies (if lucky) and you just keep swimming through all the highs and lows you can make it and so can anyone. Last thing; just make sure you have at a bare minimum, A solid support system financially where if you make nothing all or even have to come out of your personal savings to stay afloat the first few years that you and your dependents basic needs are met. Keep overhead low, and prepare for unexpected expenses. Best of luck and hope this helps! Would be pretty cool to see you in a few decades with an enormous company!!

@@samuelbrooks2154 hey, i apricate what you said, thanks for taking your time to reply.

Yes I usually do use some sort of sealer under the shingles and on top of the vent flange. Not sure what you mean by the vent seam? Are you talking about where the outer edge of the vent flange covers the shingles?

@@GrandRoofingInc yea i think that’s what he means.

Most vents whether aluminum or plastic have a little bit of a raised lip to them. That is intended for the water not to jump and channel down. That is the area we put the sealer. Also another precaution anywhere a shingle cut is over the vent flange that has a top 90 degree angle, nip the top corner off at a 45 degree angle. that is so water diverting around the top of the vent doesn't catch in trickle laterally over the edge of the flange. I hope that makes sense and helps. If you have any other questions let me know.

That's what I did. Better safe than sorry.

Really...he did say he'd post them.

That's not a bad idea, thanks! The only thing I don't like about completely hiding the flange is it doesn't tuck under the vent very much.

Yes you are right. If You're figuring the square surface of a 9-inch diameter hole yes.

@@GrandRoofingInc shouldn't you have double what you used then?

If you have OSB or plywood you can typically use your body weight and kind of tiptoe around to see where it gives. If it does not give your standing on or close to a truss/rafter. If you're unsure you can always remove a shingle and use a hammer and nail driving it down and moving it over an inch each time until you find it.

Then don't listen dumb Muppet