When a road tester at a Peugeot main dealer it was my job to clear the exhaust of oil and coolant following head gasket failure and renewal. This entailed driving at speed on the motorway causing a whiteout to following traffic and I was not popular, but on the flipside if I hadn't done it the customer would have been back the next day complaining.

He should be checking out the inside of the axhaust for oil from before doing the engine. We had a BMW that smoked EXACTLY like what you're describing.. We took the axhaust off & washed out the system & had alot of oil come out. Good luck with it & another great video Lee! It would take 15 minutes for the exhaust pipes hot enough to get the oil down stream to smoke.

If the plugs don't have oil showing on them then the smoke isn't being created IN THE ENGINE so as I said yesterday look inside the exhaust for oil that smokes more the long it runs & gets pipes hot enough to smoke the oil. Again good luck Lee!

With the Jaguar engines, there were a a number of different style breathers fitted to front of the cylinder head., behind the aluminium housing some had just a gauze plate, while some had a baffle plate with two holes which can easily be mounted the wrong way up, not allowing the oil to drain back, I've seen it done a number of times and is worth checking.

I’ve known a couple off old jags pull in brake fluid vapour through the servo system and smoke like a train.. just one off many possibilities

Now that's a cracking process! Thanks mate, from Delaware USA here. -Glen

On the dipstick comments, I had a Hesketh V1000 motorcycle a while back - the dipstick had Max, Min and 'My goodness!' etched into it!! Happy days!

Wouldn't be the original exhaust system that's full of oil from the old knackered engine by any chance. Might take a few minutes to warm up and start throwing out blue smoke and be nothing to do with the rebuilt motor. Keep up with the channel. Great entertainment.

If the Jag uses a brake servo blank off the vacuum line as it may suck in brake fluid if the brake master cylinder is knackered.

Just a thought on the Jag. I ran into a problem many years ago on a rebuilt Ford with a similar problem. It turned out that a previous owner had poured a bunch of oil down the carburetor prior to the rebuild. The oil collected in the muffler and started to burn off after the rebuild.

Lee, my advise is start up the engine and determine weather is oil or fuel smoke the smell alone will tell you very quickly what root to take. Will be interested to here the result but don't rush in.😷

I work alot on old Jaguars. Sometimes what happens is when you fill the carburettors on the Su type they have what's called a dashpot thats filled with oil and it can be sucked into the engine.

Blue smoke filling the garage from the expensive Jag ... ? That'll be the owner's Havana Cigars then ... !!?! 🤣

"oh the pcv is absolutely fine" Oh yeah, I bet. Everyone thinks if there is any kind of smoke it must be the reconditioner has buggered up the boring and honing process. The truth is the bores could be 0.005" oversize and the rings will still seal and keep the oil out. Like you said, when they come in they can have massive wear and they still don't smoke. They probably started it with a ton of oil in the cylinders and a overfilled sump. It is not the bores or the rings.

Really like you using the tripod quite often you show stuff that's out of the shot. Big improvement well done keep up the good work

Not a Jag expert, just an overall mechanic. My mind said straight away, carbs not set up properly. Over fuelling and washing the cylinder walls off, which will cause premature damage and failure of the rings and/or bore. When running that rich, the oil on the walls will dilute enough that it burns in the combustion chamber and give a lot of blue smoke. Easiest diagnosis is usually to drain the oil and smell it, if the oil smells like fuel it's running pig rich and smoking badly, washing the bores off. If the engine is out, it would pay to rehone and new rings (at customer's expense) if this is the case, as it can quickly glaze the bores from the washing effect. The tell-tale is the fact the plugs were saturated when the customer removed them.

What oil is being used. 20w50 is the one we used in a 49 XK120. We suffered no smoke , the breather on the front went to a catch tank and very little oil or vapour came down the tube. The engine was honed and new rings with new valve guides and valves. Where was the breather tube routed to ? There were several types of baffles used on the front of the head and they can be installed incorrectly as has been mentioned before. Also if synthetic oil has been used it may be too thin and may inhibit the rings bedding in. I would ensure the correct oil was used and run the engine up to see if the rings start to bed in. Lots of cars used to special oil in to bed everything in then it was changed at the first service...

Having built 100s of these , only had problems using cast oil scraper rings . Now only use expanders and a pair of scraper rings . Historically , Jaguar had problems in the early days . Even the handbooks had a leaflet added to advise oil consumption may be as bad as 150 miles to a pint of oil . My understanding , from a well known journalist , is they had to hone and re-ring many engines from American delivery docks .

In the unlikely event that the Jag is automatic,some boxes had a vacuum switch on them and if the diaphragm goes the engine sucks the oil out of the auto box

Hi, the first item i would check would be the dipstick. Jaguar had a selection of dipsticks to suit different capacity engines and sump styles. There is a possibility it may be overfilled with oil.

i have never seen pistons milled down before mind you I am old school thanks for the video

I've had that plenty of times after rebuilding atv's. Oil is coated in the header and muffler from how badly the engine was before recon. 30min ride usually sorted it. Sometimes longer.

I love your old-school engineering. If a thing works, why change it! Really enjoying the content. 👍

arp 2000 1.5 uhl rod bolts should stretch .0055 to .006 thou, i find it takes at least 55 lb ft to achieve it. The 45 lb ft im pretty sure is for the 8740 material.

Residue in the exhaust system left over from previous engine failure, drive it see if it clears

I would check the exhaust system for oil contamination left over from the old engine

Assuming the C type replica is being built to a high spec as you suggest with mostly new parts it's probably safe to rule out oil residue from failed used components. Likewise its not going to be an auto so forget any connection there. The third carburettor electric choke arrangement wouldn't cause persistent smoke once you've cleared its throat a bit with a few revs. If it is oil smoke then it's going to be dead obvious once you get in front of it because there'll be signs. Only three times have I ever had a bad smoker that couldn't be explained. Twice thR turned out to be diesel in fuel from the owners error - they don't like to admit it - so definitely take a bit of your own fuel with you and some jam jars or something to compare with. Any diesel will turn it green and a bit cloudy looking compared to fresh petrol. Third occasion was that the owner had overlapped the ends of the oil control rings - obvious once you'd got the engine out and in pieces but again he swore they were right until proved otherwise. You absolutely can not diagnose on the basis of what the customer is telling you, however competent they may seem. My money's on the fuel. Keep up the great content!

It could even be Automatic transmission fluid being drawn into the engine. Could also be master cylinder leaking through the brake servo. Just because it's new doesn't mean it's not working. He could have even connected a hose on wrong.

Another great episode. I hope you have a relaxing weekend with the family.

Never forget to check for oil in the fuel! Ask me how I know. My one ever huge mistake in overhauling an engine (it needed rings and bearings anyway, thankfully), but it smoked like a bugger on first start and drive, I found the fuel pump feeding oil back to the tank...Edit: wasn't a Jag, tho, a Mitsubishi Colt GSII

Check all the valve stem seals are in good condition. It is possible to split a new seal. Rare though. As is missing the installation or pushing one off when putting a valve back in. It could be result of changing the valve springs out for a hot cam. Looking into how much assembly lube was added before startup can be a surprise. 😮ya did whaat? Good Luck.

Just an Idea what about getting a dyno and running any complete engines you do before delivery You could market it as a service and would save a lot of headaches from things unrelated to your work

Make sure that you take an oil sample before the engine is drained. I had a customer many years ago put a friction proofing additive in the engine oil before initial srart up

Time to invest in a 3 Footed Monster camera mount.

Another great video!

On the Jag 3.4, is the customer using the right oil, as its an old school engine, and will not bed in using synthetic, after its run in, syn is ok, but not ideal, my bet is overfueling combined with old fuel, 20mins of engine time and smoke is normal on a xflow, run in, and dissipates after an hours running

Lee, I would like to suggest, two interrelated, points 1. Put on your sheet of instructions to customers with new engines A check list and If there is a problem instruct customer to create some video evidence. 2. Include all the ideas in these comments to the check list And make sure there is an updated version of the document on your website Best regards Colin PS. remember you can't fix stupid, but you can help to train them. AND this document gives you leverage in a courtroom.

You use heath Robinson a lot in your work shop😂😂😂

Looking at you moving the cutter around that piston means you must have had an Etch-a-Sketch when you were a kid.

I watched a Triumph TR3 idle itself to head warping and filling its surroundings with white smoke. The cause? Evans "coolant" not thermally conductive enough to open the thermostat on the top of the engine. Cylinder head at 130C plus, top of radiator at 75C. It ended up blowing pure propylene glycol aka vaping "smoke" out the exhaust. The vapour capsule based temperature gauge was broken on installation or in transit from a repairer.

A piston rings company said in their instruction that they find cases of very early almost instant ring faillure due to none visual sharp honing patterns , this is the only thing i could think of about this .. hope my english is understandable

Remember hearing in the second world war the Germans hated Citroen lorries as the engines kept failing, the French had lowered the marks on the dip sticks and the engines where running with almost no oil. Any chance of the reverse here perhaps theres been to much oil added? Either that or just oil in the exhaust and the car needs a good drive to clear it out.

tripod is way better than one hand shakey fumble mate

Sounds like he has put 2 stroke strimmer fuel in his tank lol, it wouldn't be the first time I have seen that, hopefully a simple outcome Lee. Good luck.

As with a few other comments did you tell the owner to use running in oil ( Millers )and not let the engine tickover once it had started and got oil pressure. Modern oils and leaving it to tickover is a sure recipe for bore glazing. I used to do that and have learnt the lesson now. Fire them up and vary the revs.

Considering labor mentioned in installing engine was difficult, checking it in situ is best, glad you're taking direct examination rather than hearsay.... Is there a practical way to measure internal vacuum in bottom end while engine runs perhaps thru some reinforced hose off dipstick, then attempt applying an external enhancement vacuum source to increase vacuum condition, in order to see if this reduces smoke and improves bedding in by reducing excess oil being drawn up by top end vacuum in BTDC stroke ? Check break in oil brand/viscosity to be certain it's low enough, not a synthetic etc that might slow break in processes...

Very important Jags have Castro XL 20W/50 they all burn oil if a thinner modern oil is used

Hi Lee To me the main studs in that golf block look to short. Love your channel keep up the good work.

Have a good one lee n take care lads

Rings need bedding in. Takes a few hundred miles minimum.

If it is rings and its as bad as he is saying i would imagine you would see heavy blow by. One thing that may be worth doing is a cylinder leak down and possibly putting a bore scope down the cylinders once its warmed up and smoking and if it is rings usually you will see oil residue around the edge of the crown.

I think the jag has a electric choke solenoid try disconnect one of the 2 wires which should switch it off it might be black smoke over rich.

It will be interesting to know what the problem is with the jag engine? Still got my old zeus book in my toolbox from quite a few years ago. Happy days!

Please. Use the tripod more...

Lee, how was the Jag engine stored between the time you delivered it and it was installed? Was it sealed up against moisture and or dirt getting in so it would rust in the cyls.? All sorts of things can happen when an engine is improperly stored.

Does the jag have power brakes? if so the booster could be full of brake fluid.

Re the Jag engine Lee what about the brake servo, (if fitted), could it have filled up with brake fluid if the seals have failed in the hydraulic cylinder. Had this before with the old Mini remote servo's - the quality of which is very poor now!. Worth a look inside the vacuum chamber to see if it's full of fluid, which would be sucked into the engine and cause major smoking.

I'd be running it on some cheap mineral oil and increased revs for abit of time just to see if the rings bed in. If it is the rings causing it in the first place, but it sounds like it need more running and see what happens then

We've seen this movie before: last time it was the PSV (probably.) The cheapest solution would be for your solicitor to offer them £2,000 to go away. It's your own fault: you are choosing the wrong customers! Two rules: 1. No amateurs (or semi-amateurs.) 2. Only deal with competent garages who you trust.

Scraper rings on upside down in the jag? other wise could be valve stem oil seals missing?

Firstly I'm not an engineer! That piston, if you've trimmed the crown, the "bowl" is smaller and so the compression is higher? Love the videos!

Did you measure those threads with wires or just over outside dia. with mic.?

Has it got an old or oil filled exhaust?? Disconnect the downpipes and try again before condemning the motor... or has it been overfilled? wrong dipstick for the sump??

Correct me if I'm wrong but when you do an engine, the first time that engine starts and for a while it will burn off the oil that is used to slide pistons in etc... but eventually that burns off and smoke stops. my first thought is the engines been left a while plus the assembly oil and only been run for 20 mins, id think running again for a good 30 mins or more should help massively. if its still smoking at that point THEN i would say hang on what is wrong. not sure which engine it is, some have multiple carbs and they have to be set up right. never got to do that myself but I've seen it on KZfaq. I seem to remember they often used "Cork" gaskets which are prone to seeping oil. was it upgraded to modern gaskets? not sure how relevant that is, but its something i remember been a thing. I will have to watch the vid again but i don't think you said smoke from the exhaust, could it be smoke from the engine bay? like its burning off paint on the block or somethings dropped on the exhaust... this is just my out-of-date semi-trained thoughts so i could easily be wrong.

New exhaust system with oil to prevent rust ??? breathers???

wet plugs accross the board i would be after carburation from over fueling

Firstly has it been run in on proper running in oil to give the rings a proper bedding in. the other thing that I have had customers doing is putting Mobil 1 fully synth oil thinking because it's one of the best oils on the market so it must be good for their fully re built engine, It is one of the better Oils only once the engine has been broken in properly, I swear by AMSOIL 10/40 myself and have done since around 1983-84, Remember the Jag motors ran 20/50 multi grades and the race motors ran Castrol R.

Had one once do that,was asu choke unit faulty causing excessive fuel burn and smoking badly

Never been a fan of handing over an engine that I haven't run myself first, obviously in a lot of cases it's not practical with late model engines and electronics etc but for early engines it's not much work to set up and can save a lot of headaches in the long run. 😊

Could the fuel be contaminated

Big improvement using a tripod. There's no risk of motion sickness like with your usual waving camera “technique”.

With all due respect, back in the day when I built engines, I never let one out of the door until I’d run it myself. Not easy to do with all the different engines you build, but it was worth the hassle to me. Just a thought.

Triple su's?, Borewash ? Leaving new engine idling I wouldn't have thought did it any good........

Sounds like it just needs to driven a few miles! Bedding rings needs some load!

My emgines the opposite no smoke doesnt use any oil or coolant lots of power its just noisier than it should be especially above say 2500rpm.....like engine roughness. Oil pressure 3 bar cold but 1 bar when hot but should be over 1.5 bar.....any ideas? Its been cherished so forget engine mounts exhaust gearbox etc. As its not at idle im thinking possibly chucking in some new std big end shells.

Are they running 2 stroke fuel by mistake.

What breather system has been fitted? Most or all genuine C Types breath through extra bosses on the rocker covers, from memory in to catch tanks, not the carbs. Have they gone to that much detail and does any breather system fitted work? Wonder what it does if you take the oil filler cap off? Im pretty sure C types were not dry sump so wouldn’t think it is a scavenging issue but it could be the wrong quantity of oil in the sump. I don’t think this is the issue but if they have run a brand new engine with no load on it for 20 minutes that isn’t great for the rings. My experience of XK engines, even pretty worn ones, is they are much better at producing black smoke than blue smoke! What does the smoke smell like? Be in touch re our MGB engine soon. I have just received another head that I will check.

You can tap them seals down too much and the top of the guide will hold the seal and spring away from sealing on the valve stem , so I've just been giving them a hard shove down with the same socket extension as you do , you can feel when its home, unlike the hammer in the hands of an inexperieced person.

Always fill the engine with the exact spec amount of oil on these old engines. Never ever rely on the dipstick, check it's calibration after filled with exact amount of oil, and re-mark it's max mark with a file if required.

Very annoying that after doing your bit and making sure everything is tickety boo, the guy comes straight back to you, demanding YOU sort it out ASAP. He could just have easily, let you know the issue and asked if you had any ideas. I'm sure you would have been more than glad to assist. You can understand why people get tired any annoyed, when a scatter gun gets pointed at them. without even a few cursory checks taking place

My old Zeus book still in the Shed that milling machine looks well beefy don't make them like that anymore, its a disgrace what's happened to Engineering in the UK we just don't make owt anymore I was in the industry for some 40 odd yrs and just never trained any young one's up. Cheers guys hope the Jag engine is ok looks like rings for me.

Oh dear, 3/8" what? UNC, UNF, BSW, BSF?. The trouble is these threads all have different pitches and depths, and that will determine what your torque setting should be.

Cheers

What oil is he using.?

What oil has he chosen to run in with

Throw a sacrificial plate in the lathe, turn it true to the head, then clamp the piston to that plate similar to what you have there. If yo want to keep it centered you could make several plates with a recess for the piston. Have several different plates for various pistons. You may have to face the plate once then just dial it in to be flat after you make it. You might take Paul. From the way you describe Paul and listening to him, he has worked on quite a few of the older engines and may be able to spot something that may be slightly out of the norm. And SMELL the smoke. As you know smell can tell you a lot especially if it's a mixed quality fuel as mentioned. Don't forget to check the plugs for the proper heat range.

Off the TOP of my head I would say ... did he spill oil on the exhausts topping it off?🤔

Maybe the dipstick is wrong and he has to much oil in the engine?

Could it not just be bedding in oil or machining oils used during assembly. Could be repurposing a used pcv system and is restricted

Run it with no.#1 spark plug out, see if oil mist comes out or not, and repeat for 2 to 6? See if oil is pissing passed on one cylinder only? Otherwise it's a general problem? Is crankcase pressure recycled or is it out to atmosphere as it was usually with pre 1960-ish engines?

If milled the heads, the head sits lower and a different angle on the v8 style engines. So the angle of the intake vs heads may be where the issue is. My guess.

How about just the oil used in assembly just burning off and he's just panicked.

Hey Lee, is the Jag engine mated with an auto trans, if so may be the old modulator. Also see if you can get an oil sample, if they don't know what they are doing with the SU's there could be gas dilution. BlueMule

Did/could the guy take a video with his phone, etc, and attach it to his email?

When I changed jobs I handed back my Zeus book, probably one of the best things I had in my toolbox.

You can take a nice round plate that fits properly in you 3 way chuck. Drill a hole in the middle smaller than the cylinder diameter. Skim the plate so that it is properly flat. Take a round stock and drill a hole through which rod that you use now will fit through. Cut thread on the other side. Take the cylinder put in that custom made piece, put the other rod through one side of cylinder than custom piece than other side. Keep the skimmed plate in the chuck and place a nut so pull the cylinder perfectly flat. Working on the lathe works much better See for inspiration: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/n5OhaauQtN-xaaM.html

pull the breather off and run it with the breather into a 5 litre bottle, my guess would be it is chugging oil out of the breather into the inlet ...

With an expensive build would have thought a run on a engine dyno be idea especially to assist the running in process, it can become a habit with a long term build once the engine in to just keep starting it on light load not helping anything

Could be overfull of oil.

What kind of oil is the guy using for the break in? I know here in the States we ate having problems because of no zinc in oils. Have to pay more for break in oil additives. Love the prick in a bucket saying 😂