Nothing hurts more than being soft and not enough thickness. Story of my life...

Best informational video to come out on rb's since ever

Thank you Herman for taking the initiative to do something like this! Platinum is at the cutting edge of RB development

Thats cool. Over priced N1 block is the same as a RB25 block. Must piss people off.

Unless you are a credentialed Engineering or you have real experience testing and building competition engines, you should reserve tyour OPINIONS. Herman did a very solid test. Higher hardness means higher compression strength! No way to argue that! His testing shows which block will have the highest compressive strength in the cylinders. That was the intent of his testing. As correctly noted by a slew of Nismo fan boys and self-proclaimed engineers, high hardness also comes with a tradeoff in toughness and tensile strength. Parts of the block under tension MAYBE more subject to failure IF the stress and strain in tension exceeds the mechanical properties of the materials. Why do more 05U blocks crack than N1 blocks? If they are higher in hardness there are more brittle and subject to impact. However, unless you drop a valve in the cylinder or a piece of porcelain off your spark plug, impact resistance is never the issue. Nine times out of ten, engine failure occurs because of bad tuning, low-quality machine work and using crappy parts. Why would an OEM not make the best parts possible? One word: BUDGET! The aftermarket can afford to have a much higher cost per unit than the OEMs. I've built more high-power RB engines in the States than anyone. I'm also a credentialed Mechanical Engineer. www.dsportmag.com/the-cars/the-worlds-most-streetable-8-second-nissan-r33-gt-r-project-rh8/

man, this is a heartbreaker.. i was thinking i had something special with my '23U' but Herman's tests prove it to be no better than a garden variety '05U' and neither one of these are any less than an N1.. they're all the same after all. wow!

Man you guys have the best videos on RB’s and GTR’s hands down. I really appreciate all the content also this video helped a lot thanks for all the knowledge! Hope u do a video on 26 vs 25 heads

Herman, thank you so much for taking the time to do all these testings and sharing it with us. Your video definitely helps clarify a ton of misinformation and rumors that for decades have been floating around, but there's nothing better than to prove with empirical data the real science behind it all. One question that I've always had, is have you ever compared the RB25DE, vs RB25DET RWD vs RB25DET AWD blocks head to head? Maybe the RB25DE & RB25DET RWD blocks are identical, however I've always wondered if the RB25DET AWD is beefier compared to the RWD.

Awesome video guys👍 Nothing beats facts and scientific testing. You are unquestionable the best resource for Skyline and RB content on KZfaq😀

This man has broken so many hearts.

This was just flawless. I appreciate when guys put in work like this for the culture

Herman I really do appreciate all your hard efforts in going above & beyond for all this information.

Great video Andrew and thanks Herman for taking the time to do it. I would have really liked to know how the rb20det faired against the rest. Thanks again.

This channel is the holy grail for English speaking rb nerds. You guys are doing God’s work

thankyou , there is nothing i appreciate more then 100% real data. keep up the good work gentlemen.

I love GTRs and one day I will get one. I learned so much in this video than I have ever since i heard about a GTR. Great job guys awesome video.

The sonic testing part was BADASS! Definitely haven't seen many of these tests done and posted on KZfaq.

That 66.6 kilo block though.... The Devil's Heart.

Incredible info, testing parameters, and results.

Thank you guys! Was looking for solid info for sooo long!

I'm guessing there are going to be quite alot of n1 blocks for sale real soon :D Thanks for taking the time and effort for making this vid MotiveDVD!

Awesome information especially for us in the US. Who are just getting real deal access to these blocks nowadays

Great content... killing it as usual, thanks guys!

Thanks for clearing the myths in the internet cause forums are a joke. 👌

26/30 combo 👌🏻

Great video guys 👍

What an awesome video, I love all RBs 👍🏻 thanks Herman and Andrew for a killer vid with bulk facts 🍻

Cool video! Wish they tested the RB20. Wonder if it shares the same casting as the other engines. The 78mm bore would be the one with thicker walls

Really informative video. I learned heaps. I hope to see more!

Great video explaining great facts and testing methodology. I've never knew that could be a way to test engine blocks... rb30 ftw

Rb30/25 💪

Mad respect for this man. ( coming from a welder who does ndi tests on welds with powder, xray, and magnets) however i was kinda confused about the test of the rd 28 block considering the results you got on hardness. I agree that the resizing the bore on the RD probably isnt the best idea but everyone is free to do what they want. Cheers mate hope to see more videos from you

Thank you for all that work and sharing.

Great info. Am a fanboy of any iron block straight 6. A good balanced and strong by nature motor.

Fantastic video thank you so much for the information greatly appreciated

very informative video, thanks for sharing.

Excellent testing but it is worth noting the hardness might change over time and heat cycling. it wouldn’t be unreasonable to suggest the newer N1 blocks might be softer as a result of the virgin steel and lack of heat cycling, further more the thermal properties of the steel have yet to be tested there may well be a significant change in hardness malleability and tensile strength under various conditions.

Would you consider showing the same test for multiple varieties of Japanese motors? I would like to see the VG And VQ motors tested, the 4g motors and maybe compare them against the Honda motors. EJ motors would be a great video too. This video put a bunch of keyboard warriors in their places. Great job guys. I love it.

Very interesting thanks for posting.

Very educational, good work!

Awesome video! Learned heaps of new stuff. Cheers👌

Great vid publicly showing what a few of us have been doing, only criticism is the proper thrust face that you really need to worry about is not on the hot side, but on the inlet side, thats where the power stroke force is, never the less nice to show the comparisons between the block designs which i never have known.

Great videos mate tons of knowledge mate good on you!

I appreciate your search & time you guys put in, great job, how about a quick comparison with 2jz?

And the deck on an after market sbc is always around 12mm to 13mm or 1/2 inch... so good!!

Outstanding video sir! Really enjoyed learning valuable information, with a good morning coffee :)

Actual facts! This is perfect! Keep it up mate!

Enjoyed the presentation, thanks.

what would be interesting would be to manufacture a billet rb20 block to solve the breakage problem and take the rb20det engines to 1000-1200 horsepower, being the engine block reliable and strong,burn less fuel and at the same time make it a powerful engine, optimal for driving on public roads.

Incredible content guys!

@Herman Urriola can you say from your experience with rb blocks if a block that may be too thin in a particular cylinder bore can still be used in high power build successfully if the block is completely cement filled. Also is there any benifit to a street driven build going with a half filled block or do you prefer a fully filled block instead with oil cooler larger capacity sump etc. seeing that most of the cylinder pressure is at the top half of the block.

SR20DET comparison like this including RNN14 54C Version would be great...

Fantastic tech vid. Great work! What sort of money can we expect to pay for a block report like this?

Thankyou heaps for this video Andrew and Herman, got an rb25 block here I’m gonna throw a 26 head on

Fantastic video, one of your best

I am interested in replacing the Rb25det in my GTS with a Rb26dett, de-stroked to 2.5L, keeping the 26 head and possibly the low mount twin turbo setup. The aim is to build a good time trial / targa car so pwr only needs to be around 280kw - 320kw with the emphasis instead on mid range throttle response and spool time (can already hear ppl saying “well keep the 26 displacement”) Can’t find any info on destroking a 26 to 25

Great video. Thank you.

Would be awesome to see a billet block thrown in the mix just too see another comparison!

GREAT INFO!!!!!!!!!!

Love these guys. But there are some points missed here and not explained much about the already tried and tested N1 blocks. One example is its metallurgy. I saw a detailed comparo years ago on a JDM magazine, it covered its metal contents, on different temps. also. If I could just only find it again.

@Herman Urriola Making a guess, N1 block may have been blueprinted from a normal block, good for circuit racing where big big power is not the ultimate goal. How they been compared against other blocks for total geometric state of the block?

amazing and very informative vid!!

Bloody hell i love this so much i have learnt so much

Thank you very much for this video

great video, please, make video about RB motors head head difference. from Russia with love)

This needs at least a million views

What an interesting vid. Well done Andrew

Ahh B 30 block with an ahh b 26 head

well my eyes have been open pretty big with the test done here. thank you for the insight and busting the myths The Nismo Omori Factory still sells the RB26 N1 block for engine rebuilds and for customers looking to convert their GTRs to full blown track cars. but looking at your test seems to be that even the most expensive blocks will still crack if the bore thickness is not up to your standards now ppl will be grabbing the RB30 and RD28 blocks instead XD can you guys also do the RB heads as well?

More videos like this! Fucking awesome! Very informative and detailed video

I'd love to see this type of video about the SR20.

Its is some of the best information i have ever seen on the RB's. Data is key to development not the verbal diarrhea that comes out of peoples mouths. Cheers Andrew

Thanks so much for the video. Never thought of using Sonic testers to test cylinder thickness. By any chance have you tested the 1uz block at all. It's rumored to have not enough meat to over bore much. Wondering how true this is.

🤔 I used to think the rb26 would be best to build but now I would actually build a rb25 an just pick up a spare long block when the 800 horsepurs escape all over the engine bay 😂

Very interesting stuff.

Best course of action on some of those seem like they'd be better candidates for sleeving than even using them as is. Wonder how the RB20 stacks up compared to all the 25 up to 30 ones

Awesome video

Awesome video!! Would love to have all of Herman’s knowledge!

Awesome learning here

in terms of an offset bore, how do you then center the con rod to the new offset pattern with the cranks having that non offset to it? I'm just confused

Good video

Excellent video 👌🏻

Is that 256 the natural frequency (first or second modal) we are reading on that device? And if yes, how we do relate it to an ultimate tensile strength?

nice vid, wish they included rb20 testing

Can anyone tell me. If I chose to use the RD28 block. And kept the factory diameter pistons. But put better pistons in for petrol performance use. Will an RB25 (after head stud holes bores to suit 12mm) or RB30 Head bolt on after the coolant and oil gallery mods? I'm asking is there an issue with the Combustion chamber overlap? Thanks in advance

Very good video

Great info!!

Super valuable info. Bravo

Would be nice if you guys cn do the same video for 4g63 engines

What about cryo treatment on the this blocks? Ik the newer blocks are worse but would crudo treatment help those get close enough to the older blocks? Would it even help the older blocks to get cryo treated? What about wpc treating them? Would that help in anyway with the oiling?

Interesting initial overview. The rebound test should be conducted on a horizontal surface if possible as the rebound is affected by gravity. A vickers or brinell hardness test would be preferable. To draw any conclusions about the metallurgy before sending samples to the lab would be premature. Castings more than anything are subject to large and inconsistent metal grain size and distribution and depending on heat treatment process will often present with different hardness out of the same batch. Harness can also vary in different areas of any one item due to any irregularities and variation in the heat treatment and cooling process. Defects such as cold shuts, laps and micro cracking are also very common and internal flaws are not located unless radiographed or flaw tested with ultrasonics at low frequencies to penetrate through the coarser grain structure of the casting.

great video

Good work Andrew! Think we could get some SR20 love? Rocker arms facts and myths hint hint

Have you done any comparison with the rb block and nissan tb48 blocks with strength and power apart from the obvious capability differences.

Great info

Absolutely amazing video man . All great things to know and look out for .

Great insight

Have any shop done the RD28 with RB26 head combo? Have some RD blocks laying around here and would love to know where to get pistons and rod for this

I would love to see the same test's done to a BILLET block. If it's really worth the "extra" buck!

I wonder if the measuring device is effected when one places the instrument on the object being tested along with their hand just a question?