Isn't it great. Long live the RB's

He sure is!

Thank you so much

@@hermanurriola138 I don't have any plans to run or interest in RB's for that matter, but the knowledge and presentation keeps me glued to the screen. Great job!

​@Tex 13 There's a simple reason I am not into RBs - financial. The availability and cost of parts in the states is still pretty limited. When you factor in that I've been around 2Js since the mid-90s and hoarded a ton of parts over the years.. I can go to almost any local Toyota dealer and get a part the same day. Or a local autoshop that will have the interchangeable parts with GE, which are dime a dozen. Plus at the end of the day, I would just have to put that much more *additional* money into an RB to make over 1000whp.

What about MCM?

Andrew use to love that channel but gone downhill abit for me lately 😞

@@beany1987 I kinda know what you mean. I preferred when they worked on their local mum's drive or the early days of working in a garage. Now they just have too much funds, unlimited haltec ECUs and it's not stuff the average Jo could do.

Andrew ye thats why i like boostedboizs aswell, simple cars and mods that can be done with ebay parts on a budget most of the time aswell. Plus they down to earth regular guys who love street and track racing

That’s because they get the good engines cheap AF over there. No less props to them tho.

Thanks mate. We're pushing hard to get more at the moment. The more we have, the more content we produce. We're still well in the negative dollars for our KZfaq channel vs our time for our production company.

@@MotiveVideo I'm positive it will start turning around for you! Any chance of looking at the n54 and stacking it up against the RB and 2J? I have a FBO n54 with Rob beck turbos, would be interesting to see the n54 block against the jdm motors as I'm sceptical to push any more power through my n54.

How's your engine doing since you installed it!?

it's bc straya mate

Yeah well said mate. There are plenty of good engines out there. And there are pros and cons to all, but this vid is about RB's and would also hope that people could stay on topic and learn more about the RB and 6 cylinder platforms. One of the biggest fanboy arguments I see is the "why would you LS swap a Skyline"? (I owned a 500kw circuit 34GTR with a 2.8L HKS donk, hence my thought process). I mean it is not everyone's preference and it probably doesn't affect drag racing all that much, but and LS swap into a circuit cars makes a hell of a lot of sense. 270kgs RB vs 183kgs LS3, a shorter engine in length and height (reducing polar moment of inertia), the LS has virtually no lag, making it easier to drive out of corners with a linear throttle feel and with the ability achieve the same level of HP, why wouldn't you want an LS3 in a Skyline or GTR for circuit work.....lol. ( I wanted to do the swap, but funds didn't allow at the time sadly). Boy did I get a lot of flack for even thinking of it........lol. Anyway, this is not meant to start any arguments, it is just to point out some very important engineering points in terms of what engine to begin with in a certain motorsport discipline. I mean I would prefer not to hear a V8 in Skyline or a GTR, but on paper, it is such a logical choice. I see so much "hate" against all sorts of cars and engines in the car world and most of it is Fanboy BS through and through rather than relying on engineering principles alone. Def a lot of emotions with the younger generation, they hate on things just because it isn't their childhood dream engine, or sound "cool" or what not. I say the RB engine is a damn good engine for how it performed, the 2JZ too, especially for the low literage they were and how much power you could obtain (The Winfield GTR for example) but it doesn't mean it can't be improved on fundamentally, especially using a V engine like they did in the 35. At the end of the day, no engine is super perfect, they all have their downsides, I just wish more guys could use this a point to learn new things from instead of getting their panties in a knot. The Fanboy BS is a generation of guys who have still not grown up, they are continuing their schoolyard arguments of their favourite car into adulthood, completely ignoring engineering information.

Well said besides everyone knows the barra is king 😂

Thank you sir

@@hermanurriola138 Mad respect for your engineering skills, attention to detail, testing methods and hours of research put into your products :)

Zero interest in rbs but watches a 98% rb based channel 🤦‍♂️

@@clutchkickpj693 yep, hooked me with the world time attack series, and now I'm even watching stuff I don't care about, learning lots.

I'm not a particular fan of rb's either but, knowing your enemies weaknesses is the key to winning lol. I do actually like the r32 and 33 though so knowing how much power I can run without the brace is good knowledge and knowing it won't crack if I delete the front drive shafts is good as I don't care for 4x4 or rear plus front on power. But damn that's a lot of work just to stop it cracking.

A considerable amount of people who've been building and racing these since the mid 90's mention they wouldn't listen to a thing Herman says. During his brace sales ads and talk, He got very angry when I asked how many 24U (N1) blocks he has seen crack around the turbo oil feed compared to 05U blocks. I sent him two 26 blocks to be tested as in this video and instead of getting my own blocks back it ended up in somebodies engine bay and someone elses property got sent to me i'll be doing my own KZfaq video about this and with a few blocks cut apart so to help you guys see if there is any difference inside or if pretty much the same What they have no interest in telling you is that the N1 block has a thicker deck and more material around the weak spot near the oil feed hole and rarely cracks in that area where the 05U's do it all the time - Nismos foreman mentioned it in one of his blogs which you can go and read. Anthony from Maatouks Racing who has built more RH7/RH8 GTRs than most mentioned in a post he has never cracked a single N1 block around the oil feed or seen one crack there even with over 1000hp and that they build them without a brace on them, that comment went missing I screenshotted it just incase

Hey wait a tick! Is that my block 😂

and what's happened to your s14?

Flynno seen any clips with a tb48 in a GTR?

Na but wanting to. apparently there stronger than 2j’s

And about 3x more torque!!

TB48 and the 1FZ are way too big they are no doubt stronger w/o checking main reason is the stroke and rod, oem will make a block stronger because increasing stroke imparts greater side wall forces upon the block.

Can get girdle to suit wet or dry sump

Motive Video thanks, is there a good place to visit for turbochargers trying to find out what would be good for an RB30 as well

@Tex 13 well true,I am around 480HP atm but 398 at the wheels. Maybe i just need a bigger turbo since 22psi isnt enough. Max is 24 but 24 and 23 isnt that stable so i left mine at 22...i probably just need a bigger turbo and a re-tune .-.

TheLeggera it’s been stated right in the video ppl with big power rwd don’t have block cracking issues at all.

jasaircraft it won’t make it stronger.. the reason it cracks is because of distortion from the front diff a brace takes care of things there.

yes brace makes the sump lower, plenty of room, and how to modify the bell housing to suit is all on our site under instructions Solder over the fault line is not enough to compensate for the blocks ultimate strength under load, it takes so much until it cracks, the force causing it to crack are far more than some solder will help with unfortunately but thanks for thinking outside the box on that one, I appreciate it.

Andrew what's you waiting time like

Update us man!

Russell Hocken heaps of cars run them with no issues

Drive shaft angle will be effected.

@@Roger-nu2ec It has had all of zero real effect on the hundreds of cars using it

people run 2 inches of lift in the 4wds and dont ruin cv's 12mm aint going to be an issue unless your bottoming out or lifting wheels then you have other things to worry about like the fact your crashing

Zero clearance issues. For those that fuss about driveshaft angles, it makes no difference, just as the CV joints move up and down with suspension travel. If anything at launch your front will lift more than 10mm to bring you back into line to where you want to be under power.

Weird flex, but ok

GeeTR 63-71 you can’t weld cast iron you’ll crack it and make the metal lose its strength.

@@msengineeringdavid3702 agreed, its hard to weld and is never as strong as the original casting

@@hermanurriola138 Hello Henry how are you? I love the vids you guys doing so far and learn important things from them. Anyhow my questions about the main cap incorporated girdled you showed. I know aluminum is lighter which is good but 1. Does the aluminum expanding differently and issue over say a billet steal? Also what about a billet main cap with a girdled that ties all the caps together and then to the pan bolt holes? Would that also work well? Thanks George

@@georgehoneymen6045 Hi man, yes expansion rate is very different with alloy, that's why we have not released the alloy brace yet, its in testing still ( all iin one billet main cap version) we have released the steel version, it does tie the pan rail in and it works magnificently

Herman Urriola Thanks for the reply! Is the steel version a two-piece that attaches to the main caps? I’m curious for a Nother application on a Toyota 7M. I have billet main caps I was going to make a billet griddle to attach to the caps and oil pan bolts. Thanks.

Lime you do an “align hone” basic machining process.

@@msengineeringdavid3702 I knew about "align honing", i swear it was called line honing, maybe because the "a" is silent. I just worry whether its the same if you used different parts from oem main caps. so you wouldn't need to worry about the parting line of the main caps and have those machined flat and worry about whether how much you need to take off to get flat before you worry about how the hole for where the bearings and crankshaft will go. Because if i did it this way, it require some math to figure that out, which is still basic but still a mind fuckery and hurts the head because if not done, the hole for the crankshaft and bearings will be oblong.

if you reused the original main caps to the engine, i dont think you would have to line hone them. an easy test is just tq them down without a crank in and check for any material hanging over.

Frigglebiscuit stop trying too hard noob

@@msengineeringdavid3702 making idiotic comments again, i see.

i'd say yes

Definitely

You will crack the block next minute or next day with that amount of power going through N1 without any bracing.

Definitely

@@MotiveVideo thank you for the answer will order one as soon as the engine is out

@Ed Jack thats not true. The rb26, 2jz and1jz have the same bore

Not having a go just saying 😊

Block height on a 1j is shorter.

@@msengineeringdavid3702 exactly! Im more interested in a direct comparison: ie number of ports, cylinder wall thickness, sonar testing, like there other videos :)

@Tex 13 useful info, cheers mate

isacnr7 no one.

Tex 13 those are dry sleeves Jesus Christ stfu.

@@msengineeringdavid3702 you need to fuck right off, dude. i see your stupid rude ass comments all over this video. trying to act like some kind of rb guru or god.

@Ed Jack Do cylinder head steam bleeds fix the problem?

You guys are talking two different things. In answer to your question- the heads generally crack in this area due to localised hot spots from steam pockets. Is the engine going in a VL? The radiator position is a little low on thw Commodores and creates problems getting air pockets out of the cooling system. The fix is to change the way the cooling system is designed and incorporate a proper expansion tank that sits higher than any other part of the cooling system (the inlet manifold in an RB20, 25 and RB30's are the highest point). This becomes the new fill point and will naturally bleed any air out of the system

And put 6 steam bleeds at the high points in the head 👍

probably hot spots. drill steam holes and you should be fine.

John Olasau the engineering is done you don’t have to account for anything main line hone and you’re set

MSengineering David you seem to know a lot are you the guy who makes them for platinum?

Roger no those are the basics when you use aftermarket main caps.

@@msengineeringdavid3702 Thanks Dave !

KING AVE 72 apparently with a 4wd diff

Mine cracked :-/ exactly where he said.. can't help it 600bhp launches are too much fun 🤣

ANTSGTR was you dragging it

kgkustomz97ser he said it very clear in the video.

@@msengineeringdavid3702 guess im busted then. lmao.. i didnt watch the whole thing. i just skipped through. you gonna tell me what he said or make me watch the whole thing?

ok... he didnt say a number for the RWD config.. he said some dont crack at all

kgkustomz97ser he said big power rwd have little to *NO* issues cracking blocks. On an RB26 the differential climbs the ring gear and wants to rip out of its hold in a twisting manner that force is applied to the block and that cracks it. Ever see RWD cars lift wheels before on one front tire? Specifically the front right it’s from the ring gear lifting the body which happens in a diagonal motion same thing happens to RB’s with diffs mounted to the engine block.

How will that fix it when you want your GTR to remain 4wd?

@@callummcrae7774 There's a company in Russia that specializes in AWD conversions for 2JZ powered cars. Problem solved :)

In lines sound better.

Boosted Moose what a stupid question .

Any particular reason why 1000-1200 hp on either platform isn't enough? Nobody likes Dyno Queens so unless you have a practical use for having more than that...

@@dj4monie you would think yes, but your average time attack car now runs over 1000HP, and drag... well, more, not for long but much more, so as our clients push these limits, we are asked to come up with solutions to help, it is getting crazy :)

@@dj4monie 100% this. im so tired of these stupid hp wars.

“For people that wanna go stupid on there build”, not everyone has a spare 60k to go as stupid as they would like.

vegeta 2jz facts 💯

007 007 revisions weren’t due to that. Ever. It was things like different strokers, improves bolts, making it fit multiple RB blocks etc. Perhaps ask before creating your own ideas out of thin air with no evidence

eldan wiggins a 2jz cracks mains and they don’t have a diff that twist on it for launches dumbass.

eldan wiggins before you run your mouth even further mains of a 2jz at 900whp blog.titanmotorsports.com/wp-content/gallery/Titan-Main-Caps/titan-main-caps-01.JPG

Agreed 2j are better

@@msengineeringdavid3702 2jz is far superior...there is a video of 2jz versus any RB or RD motor

Jacob Walls idiot no one said anything as to what’s superior they both need mods to last don’t reply to me with adolescent 1 liners because you watched the other video from this channel.

At least you can modify it to suit your needs

Its got a Yamaha head man its not bad at all!

Compeer Raa gte head follows like ass and every port is different GE ports are way better.

I hope they put out 50 more vids saying the 2j is the best engine ever built in all the history of engines. It will only raise the cost of 2js and lower the cost of RBs. #RBswapeverything!

+MSengineering David While it is true that a stock GTE head doesn't have the best flow, it has been proven to support in excess of 1500hp. Don't confuse capability with realibility.

and lose 4WD and be slow

Lol 😆 unless your running a Is billet block why waste your money

tuurbow My brother just go with 1uzfe vvti V8 with a manual trans

Boi Santana And a 6 bolt mains.

yep, basically if you want AWD cool, otherwise JZ.

Yaze 76 or a smart one.

The RB is not in the top 10 list of any engine you would want to take to the limit

Or the N1 is crap so they sell you a brace and all your problems are over lol

@Tex 13 the 2jz holds just about every speed and et record for any engine with 6 cylinders ever there are bigger engines with more cylinders and more power but if it's 6 cylinders you want the 2jz is undoubtedly the best to choose.

step2, no front diff and go slower in a street car

raheel saleem the cracking is from an external factor not an internal issue.