Bro is the best video I found on porting heads on a 2-stroke I'm sure aupplies to the zenoah G260-G320 plum Marine engines I am subscribed and I have your alert on thanks

I got a hold of one of those Zenoah G320 engines about a month before they came out on the market, a "pre-production" engine. My goal was to be the first to come out with a ported G320 engine. So I get the engine, (same as the production engines), make the fixtures to port them on the CNC mill, develop the first phase of porting and get it on the dyno. Since we can get close to 7hp with the G290 platform, my goal to start was 7hp. I get 6.25hp. (the stock engine with the exhaust can makes 3.5hp. A stock G260 with can makes 2.3hp for comparison) with a DDM Baja side mount pipe is 5.5hp on the stock G320, (Not many fully modded G260/G270s will do better). I try a couple other things to make more power,---still, 6.25, and the curve looks the same, (pretty much). Now my plan has failed. I was not going to be the first out with a ported G320. I did more and more things, spent more time on this engine than any other by far, and every damn time, 6.25 and the curve hardly changed. So, since nothing else I did to it made any difference, all I did was what got me to 6.25hp. I wanted to see 7hp, but this engine did not respond to porting changes like the smaller engines do, at least not for me. I ended up being the last to come out with a ported G320. Now, I did not go for higher RPM because this larger crank does not like RPM higher than 17,000 rpm. So there can be more power up there that I did not look for, but I still doubt it would beat a good G290 above 13,000rpm, and the great low end power that engine has would suffer,---so why? This is the best RC engine for 8000-12,500 rpm, (tight tracks and heavy 4 wheel drives, still love the stock clutch), and my porting still keeps that great low rpm grunt. Nice vid sir. Thanks for mentioning that you started with an ESP cylinder. But I pulled a lot of hair working on that new engine, so I bet you didn't get anymore power from it, under 17,000rpm. :) Keep an eye on the lower end of the rod if you are getting more rpm. At 19,000, I turned the bottom of the rod brown in under 30 seconds on my dyno. If it goes blue,---change it. By the way, the rod is not longer, (it is 50mm cent to cent), but the stroke is for the stroked cranks, (the rod end pin is 1mm further from the center of the crank, and the 320 cases need a bit of clearance milled in them for the 2mm crank). If the rod was longer, (and they are sold longer), you would then put a spacer under the cylinder to get the same squish, (a 3mm longer rod, a 3mm more spacer), and your port timing will barely change. Thanks for using my stuff. I appreciate it. Happy roosting while surfing the earth. Doug @ ESP

Well, I did it! I took your advice and modified an engine for the first time! I just started it up, it idles a lot lower and smoother now, I will see how it runs at the field! Thank you for the awesome video!

Great info my bro just sub

Thank you for this video man!

Thanks for the info my RC friend I’ll be trying that 👍🏼 Now can it be done on a Zenoah g290 engine? Will be doing it on my g320 though 👍🏼

Where is the piston ring end gap on that motor, on the intake side? If you had an rc reed valve, could you cylinder reed port it for a 5th or 6th port?

You should get a degree wheel, it will allow you to map your port timing events and make them repeatable.

Can you compare Bartolone and ESP ported top end?

Hey man so I'm doing my poring job in quick question when you say taking off a little bit Of the bottom of the intake inside the cylinder do you go all the way through or Do you just take off a little bit on the inside and then taper it off off as it goes towards the carburetor. Do you get what I mean

I would suggest a degree wheel so your adjustments are repeatable.

Mount half of the crankcase to the cylinder. Drop in the crank with rod and piston. slowly rotate, noticing the ports on the cylinder in relation to the sides of the piston skirt. You can see where to modify piston for better intake flow from the crankcase up to the combustion chamber. Its all about freer flow, just dont get too crazy.

Did you really say “the inside dremeled in” ?? And I’m trusting you to explain porting to me🤣

So what timing do you suggest? I assume you do use a timing/degree wheel?

Did you even use a degree wheel to see what the numbers were on the engine? And what squish are you running?

Sir i have two stroke cylinder i want to increase its rpm power please help me how i can increase the speed from its ports. Please help me tell me sir

What about the amount of mm taken away? And the piston, did something to it?

Hello sir. Jusy want to ask? How about transfer port? Need to porting?

If you just start grinding the ports with no measurements or calculations the best you can hope for is to get lucky and not FU your engine.

So I tried this just exactly what he said to do and now I get nothing but gas and oil dripping out of my exhaust. The engine runs but I've never seen this amount of oil and gas coming out the exhaust. It's like the fuel is unburned. Anyone have any suggestions??