have you used infrared before? Compared to alternative paint stripping methods it's quite fast. One machine on this rail system can strip 14 foot runs in about 15 minutes. Add additional machines and the speed increases further. 👍

Hi, do you have the Rhino or the Optim H2O? Check out the installation video here. There is a note * order of components may vary bu model. It liiks like the Rhino is correct - softerner goes first. BUT on Optim H2O it shows the filter first. Hope that helps - www.aquasana.com/product-installation-videos.html#wholehouse

Its a tool for stripping paint...you need to know how to perform. maintenance repair when the bulb goes bad...so you can continue stripping 🤷‍♂️

​@@myoldhousefixThat's exactly what this video should show in full and clear detail then. What is the point in this video even? The recent content falls far short of the description of what this channel claims to be. Don't meant to hate. Just saying...

​@Buckeye-hz5oh this is a You Tube "short" its meant to be a "preview" not a full length video - hence SHORT. The full length tutorial is in editing right now. I do have a life outside of making free content for you to view. Dang bro...

FOr newer houses and non-historic homes I agree 100%. I don't recommend expensive tools for folks who only have 1-2 projects as that doesnt make sense either. WIth older homes, often the original features and millwork are irreplacable due to th elevel of craftsmanship and the old growth lumber that just doesnt exist today like it once did. Just like a classic car, you often devalue it by remove these original features and everything removed must be replaced at X cost. So in this case historic features are usually worth restoring and preserving.

I agree, I always advocate for proper PPE, its just a little hard to do and talk during a video 👍

great question! I had the same concerns, but after 8 years I don't even have any finish damage. I think the felt seals keep a lot of water out but also allow water to drain/dry out. Where I do have water damage, is on the exterior sash edge at the window panel - the wood sash surface is about a half inch flat surface. So I am going back to route out that edge on an angle to match a glazing angle profile to shed water instead of sitting on the surface. hope this helps.

the polished nickel "arm"? It is a pot filler

there is a pressure release (small red button) on the😊 small left filter canister..

You're welcome! I have another one coming for the Cobra on interior trim amd baseboards 👍

It IS selling quite well, thank you. You must not be familiar with these types of tools. They work really well and don't vaporize lead paint. I'd be happy to help you understand more, if you like 👍

@@myoldhousefix what im saying is no one is going to want to pay for this service, its too expensive

@@myoldhousefix how much does the machine cost?, im in socal so most holmes have stucco

This type of infrared paint stripper has been used for over 20 years here in the US. It's also the best option with dealing with lead paint abatement. Additionally, when paint is 50-100 years old, at some point, it has to be removed to get a quality paint job and make it last 15-20 years. Like a house, your paint job is only as good as its foundation. This hands-free system dramatically speeds up the paint stripping process. 2 units were used on my house to strip the entire exterior. For example, we stripped a run of 15 foot clapboard siding down to bare wood - 15 board feet stripped every 15 minutes. 👍

​@@flip0345 this is the Speedheater 1100. It runs about $550. The InfraRed Rack is my invention and it is $149 plus the Rail System ($100-150 and local purchase due to size) . I'll put the links below...

We used a combo of bullhorns and 1/4" brick trowel, like the ones here - sovrn.co/hegxubs

The mortar was mixed to a peanut butte consistency and use the hawk like a straight edge - scoot the mortar off the side of the hawk and into the joint like in the video. It takes a little practice, but not too bad...

Glad I could help, Wes! 👍

As you can see in the videos, it does work well when the tool is used properly. Let's see if we can figure out your issue and help. I assume you have an 1100. How long are you heating the work surface for - the recommended 30-45 seconds? How are the side guards adjusted? If adjusted all the way down, the surface won't get hot enough. Remove the 4 screws from the two side guards and shorten the tool standoff. The closer the tool, the better it will heat. Note - don't adjust it all the way down on top of the surface as it needs an air gap to prevent tool overheating Outside temp - is it cold out when you were paint stripping?

Additionally, if your base layer is milk paint, you will need the hottest setting and/or use the Cobra.

@@myoldhousefix I like your site and without a doubt if I had to do it all over again I would *definitely* purchase your rack kit. the "Classic Arm" is not user friendly. Anyway, I tried everything to get the base layers off short of burning the house down. Takes latex off like a champ tho. The scraping that it required to get the lead/oil paint off resulted in tiny chips and dust powder - like sanding :( Plus scraping it out of V Groove was a nightmare. We're biting the bullet and going to re-side the west and south sides. It's not an historic house. Husband not up for removing it and working on it in the shop and re-installing, I feel defeated.

​@kpmurph1 I'm sorry to hear that. Let me know if I can help. Some paint can be more stubborn than others, but we've had great results with all oil and latex paint that we've encountered so far. I did have to adjust my side guards down tho, so it heats the paint more effectively. The paint here was all oil based and around 6-8 coats total.

As you can see in the videos, it does work well when the tool is used properly. Let's see if we can figure out your issue and help. I assume you have an 1100. How long are you heating the work surface for - the recommended 30-45 seconds? How are the side guards adjusted? If adjusted all the way down, the surface won't get hot enough. Remove the 4 screws from the two side guards and shorten the tool standoff. The closer the tool, the better it will heat. Note - don't adjust it all the way down on top of the surface as it needs an air gap to prevent tool overheating Outside temp - is it cold out when you were paint stripping?

As you can see in the videos, it does work well when the tool is used properly. Let's see if we can figure out your issue and help. I assume you have an 1100. How long are you heating the work surface for - the recommended 30-45 seconds? How are the side guards adjusted? If adjusted all the way down, the surface won't get hot enough. Remove the 4 screws from the two side guards and shorten the tool standoff. The closer the tool, the better it will heat. Note - don't adjust it all the way down on top of the surface as it needs an air gap to prevent tool overheating Outside temp - is it cold out when you were paint stripping?

You're welcome! Glad I could help! 👍

You're welcome, glad it helped! 👍

I covered that at 4:11...did you see it?

@@myoldhousefix at 4:13 it just skips from when you're about to take it out and vacuum it out, to where you've already reinstalled it. I'm having a hard time finding pictures of this exchanger's innards online. I've found numerous diagrams, but very few pictures.

​@firstnamelastname9918 there's not too much to the inner "core" heat exchanger. Its basically a large filter box that mixes incoming and outgoing air. It looks like a car air filter wrapped in metal. It doesn't have any serviceable parts and us one unit. It slides right out, vacuum it once per year (per mfr maintenance task) and push it back in...thats it. I'll see if I can find a pic...

​@@firstnamelastname9918 - here's a pic - gasexperts.ca/product/venmar-replacement-erv-core-part-no-sv03137/

@@myoldhousefix Thank you! I'm approaching this as an engineer (mostly software / electrical). I've been researching this and trying to understand why the criss-cross design was used instead of the classic counter-flow design, which is far more efficient. It seems it's because this design is very effective from the perspective of manufacturing simplicity/cost as well as it's compact size. This has tens of layers stack on top of each other, yet requires no intricate supply and exhaust manifolds. I'm a bit pathological when it comes to optimization.

I hope you found it informative 👍

@@myoldhousefix Next time tell people to pack a lunch. Thank God for the skip button. Next time do it in 2 minutes, ok?

Whoa...how rude!

@@lourdesgarcia1690 You really think a 14 minute video to go on and on about PAINT SCRAPERS is normal? Well it IS on KZfaq and I'm trying to stop it by alerting these people who make them to SHORTEN THEM. Nobody wants to watch a 14 minute video. "Hi, my name is Bob. And what we're going to talk about today is paint scrapers". (we know....that's why we clicked on the video).

Instead of complaining about other channels. Why don't you start your own and make 2 minute videos? Surely that should be no problem unless you really don't have anything to contribute.

Im not sure about that model. Look at Section 9 here - www.manualslib.com/manual/575481/Fisher-And-Paykel-Dishdrawer-Dd603.html?page=6#manual

I also washed a video with the Drain King, and a guy demonstrated it and it had the wide exit spout but still only put out a thin water shot, so I am convinced now that it will work the same!!!! I am going to first test the washer hose to see if it will put out enough pressure like a water hose!!!!😊

I'm not sure about the other version. Here's the version I use - amzn.to/2Dc1xO0​

in that case you'd have to use extension cords.

yep, clearly bogus when you read the product specs - 1"+ and this video on 3/4" beadboard👍 kzfaq.info/get/bejne/gdOnZdun2dathY0.htmlsi=Qdimw171QbPcMkWA

@@myoldhousefix thank you for showing us ANOTHER EXAMPLE OF NOT PLASTER AND LATHE.

​@fredflintstone2234 not sure what you don't understand about it detecting through materials up to 1"+. The 6000 model, up to 2" thick. 👍

Hi! It should work fine. All adhesives and paint that I have used it on have worked well, to include that heavy black mastic from linoleum that was on our wood floors. It softened and scraped off nicely 👍

ok 👍

Shouldn’t it be raked to about 20mm?

I'm not a bricklayer. I'm a homeowner trying to learn how to do this for my wall. Please elaborate. Why is this not good pointing in your opinion. What is this person doing wrong? What should I do differently?

Those storms and that fit is real nice. 👍🏼

thank you! ​@@curtismann6851

I was too! You can add supports like. I did. Check out the video and notice the galvanized brackets on each end - they are reinforcing the single 2x4 ceiling joist. If its.old growth wood that is super hard and you get your mounting screws in the center of the joist, you should be ok. Also, the wider swing allows the weight to be distributed out on the stronger edges vs the middle where the joist may sag easier.

Good points as everyone situation and power "loads" will vary 👍

next step it goes out to sandblast and paint, then a fllush/pressure test, and final coats of primer amd paint.

@@myoldhousefix I was actually making a joke given these things are 200lbs and up lol. My own which looks to be a little smaller than yours (waitaminit....) weighs in at 220. To be serious though, do you intend to replace the larger bushes at all or are you leaving them in place if it pressure checks good?

​@@NordicDan yeah, they are heavy, hey! I usually leave the large bushing unless it's leaking or heavily corroded. Thanks for the comments!

I would flush/clean one side at a time and close the drain/stopper on the opposite one while cleaning 👍

If I remember correctly, yes 10" round duct in basement with blower up to rectangular duct in wall cavity (12"x6") to hood.

280-700 CFM single motor hood

I listed the "spud wrench" as option #1, but you could do either, based on your tools on hand.

incorrect. The threads incurred zero damage. What you are seeing is the remains of the residual fitting material down in the radiator threads.

Hi, Im not sure about that issue. I havent run into that one before...

If it is "locked" like when the dishwasher is running, try turning off the power then see if it opens. You may have a bad door microswitch that tells the unit when to lock/unlock.

I'm sorry to hear that! I had a similar battle with a 3 year old KitchenAid fridge...it was a nightmare!

You're welcome, Amber! 👍

You simply follow the proper cleaning procedures - there is a drip tray and owner's manual instructions - follow them. All mechanical equipment needs recurring preventive maintenance, checks, and services to run properly. No different in this case unless you choose to ignore it and run it to failure. 👍

@@myoldhousefix as someone that has been involved in installing commercial and residential hoods since the early 80's I know what the problems are. All that duct work with elbows is bearly impossible to clean. Thats why the National Fire Protection Association mandates, All ducts shall lead directly to the exterior of the building , so as not to unduly increase any fire hazard. In all fairness it is a commercial code but just as reliable to prevent a homeowner or a unethical install or manufacturer jeopardizing the safety of the occupants. We have to continually remove greasy cheap exhaust ducts and replace it with clean ducts to remove the grease that accumulates in the exhaust ducts.

I agree with you but this hood is on a non-exterior wall, so whether the duct travels up and over through the cabinets to exit outside or down into the basement with open access and outside...its all the same. It's totally accessible in the basement, probably better than up in the cabinets. I think we both agree that attic access is frowned upon, tho.

@@myoldhousefix My old company still turns away potential jobs all the time in new homes that have poor and/or dangerous designs. Ductwork hidden between floors, several changes of directions, installed with no pitch to assist in drainback of excess grease, etc. Looks should not override safety but it does in many instances. Manufacturers lobby to get their way in many industries and it normally ends up the same, good for them, not so good for the actual safety of the occupants. Manufacturers and fire Marshals are having continuous meetings and disagreements because ones priority is safety and the others priority is profits. Money talks in a world ran by millions of greedy, evil, self serving people. NOT saying any of YOU are evil or bad but you know good and well they exist and are in positions of power throughout America. Never more so than now.

Mine failed and they sent a replacement within 3 days 🤷

Get those entries!!! Good luck!!! 👍

Thank you for watching and supporting my channel! I'm glad you enjoyed this Old House, all dressed up for the Holidays!

thanks for watching! 👍

thanks for watching! 😊

thanks for watching! 😊

sure does. Ive been using mine for preventive maintenance for years now...

Thanks!