Thats correct, I have both hot and cold and mix. Yes the piping is like you mentioned with the hot water supply t'd off the cold line. The one thing you do need to do is put a one way valve just before the heater to stop the hot water flowing backwards into the cold pipe.

no, these controllers dont support remotes

@@berko79 thanks for that information

Hi Mate, yeah I reused this. Unless you really ruin it when removing it I wouldnt bother replacing it. You just need to make sure you spend some time removing the old silicon. If you do need to buy it its called "J Mould" and i think most caravan repair shops should sell it. Cheers.

Unfortunately you can't on my controller. I've heard of some changing back to the imperial era by pushing up and down arrows at the same time, you could try that.

These are called J moulds. If you do a google a few stores should show up. Sorry it won't let me link in the comments.

Thanks @berko79 that’s a great help! So hard to find in the uk!

put another vid up a couple of months back on the wiring mate - check that out and yell out if any questions.

Not with the controllers that come with them. They will switch off automatically if they dont get hot. Something like afterburner might be able to just trigger the fan.

Yeah different circuitry in the 6 and 3 blade controllers and they arent compatible. I'm not sure if they make a rotary controller which works with the 3 blade.

Hmm interesting idea, I'm about to do a service on mine again so I'll have a look if thats possible.

@@berko79 almost would have tried myself. Went to do the service but when i found the impeller etc all good didnt bother. I have a big trip later in the year so ill do a full service then. Interested to see how you go

It really is pretty basic but it depends on your level of DIY experience I guess. If it looks tricky from the video it might be best to leave it to the professionals.

Yeah you are correct it adjusts the fan speed. The interesting bit about how they work is the fan speed is not just for the hot air it puts out which warms us up. The fan speed is also for how much air it pushes into the combustion chamber and in turn how much fuel gets injected (more air more fuel = more heat). So yes the temperature/amount of hot air produced goes up with the fan speed.

@@berko79 ah right ok, thanks for the reply

You can't change this when in use. These 2 parameters are tied together. The fan speed is also used for air delivery into the combustion chamber so it has to match the pump pulses to ensure a clean burn

@berko79 if that is true, that's the answer was looking for.

I've never done that to be honest. But it would depend on what temp you are trying to maintain and the ambient temperature. I'd guess a couple of amps on average - its something i might need to test. Cheers!

Hi Mate, I just did the negative so I could locate my switch somewhere handy without running two sets of positive. You can mount it anywhere on the small wires as it just needs to break the circuit. So positive or negative just go with whatever suits your situation better

No, I wasn't able to find any instructions at all for this controller. That's part of the reason I decided to make this video. Luckily it's pretty simple but things like the error codes is a bit different and could easily be missed.

Glad you liked it!

Oh yes that's normal. I should have mentioned that in the video. I freaked out too with the odd burning smell. Don't worry 2nd or third time you use it is completely gone

@berko79 Many thanks for that buddy. Yes, it's already away. Im very impressed with it so far. 👌👍

@berko79 Hello again. I have an error E 2 coming up with flashing battery on heater LCD screen

@@Tman1969 oh wow I've never had that one. It's apparently overvoltage or no flame. Is your power source or battery higher than 14v? Otherwise no flame can mean you need to bleed air or the lines(prime the pump again) and might mean you have a air leak in your fuel lines.

@berko79 Ive it sorted ok thanks buddy. It was all down to a live wire being not thick enough core which messed with the voltage. All running fine again pheeew. ❤️👌👍

I'm actually not sure how you change the PIN. Have you tried 1688 and 9009?

@@berko79 Thanks. 1688 was the stock pin, but my friend changed it. It is the last option in the settings menu.

Screen lit up? does it flash on when you push on?

@@berko79 sorry about late reply , I figured out what was wrong isn’t it always the way was such a simple error , I followed instructions on how too prime the fuel too the heater I had done this many times with older style one so was slightly different for the blue facia control but just wouldn’t function I got fed up and pressed everything in sight and still nothing only came on and off fuel was there but not pumping 🤔 so I changed the pump from my old one that definitely did used to work , but still nothing on screen and wouldn’t pump , jeez I thought this is difficult to solve I even changed over the control from my older style one even changed over the brain I tried everything, I sat there dejected for another 30 minuets I had spend all day till late at night baffled then I noticed where I had been disconnecting the fuel pipes on the pump I had leaked tiny amounts of fuel on too the top of the black connector that plugs in to top of fuel pump , so I thought I’ll blow on it like mad kinda drying it out ? And thought this is never gonna be the problem but I’ll fire it up for the last time before I launch it in too a nearby rubbish tip , guess what bingo pump started ticking and has never stopped works fine and display started working , would you have thought that tiny bit of fuel getting in the connector would cause such misery lol 😃

@@berko79 yes screen always lites up but buttons wouldn’t function ie nothing happening when pressing any , but as you can see I solved the problem at last !!

Yes you can just write a switch on the power or ground wire. You will still need to power it off using the controller as it goes through a routine which cools the heater down (basically runs is with just the fan on for a few minutes until it's a safe temperature)

@@berko79 ah yes, my old Florida used to do that cool down. - So if I put a switch on the ground of controller it will still do cool down if I power off the controller? Is it a bad drain? I've got 200ah leisure

@@richardd8352 should be zero drain if you switch the negative. The biggest drain on the heaters is the startup when there for plug is heated which is about 15 amps at 12v. Once the heater is running it drops to a very small draw on the battery.

@@berko79Thanks for the reply. Out of interest - how much of a drain is the controller without a switch? - Are we talking a dead battery in days/ weeks / months? Roughly.

@@richardd8352 oh no that's really really small. You'd get months I'd say from a big battery like yours. The issue is the screen stays on and fades. It gets so bad you can't read it and that's the reason you want to unplug or switch the heater

Yeah I can go down to 1.2 when heating. Weird they are all set up differently.

Partially solved. The controller can't select limit values when Hertz span is too big for it. When I set 1,2 - 3,3 span, then can use whole range. When go higher to 4,4, selectable lower value is 1,7.

Yeah sorry about that, and i cant easily add it. It does involve just pressing the power button (same one you push to turn it on) and then wait for the shutdown routine to complete (takes a couple of minutes to make sure its cool)

Did you have any luck? sometimes it looks like they dont come apart but you can undo it - if it doesnt even have a spanner spot at all you may need to replace the whole thing back to the pipe unfortunately.

Yeah I am beginning to think this is the pick of the bunch to be honest. Just simple and works!

it might be paired already? have you confirmed its got a battery in the remote? Like it lights up ok I assume

press and hold ok for about 10 secs. once you let go it should go back to english

Thanks back to english!!@@berko79

Hey Duck, hows things going? miss the old BOE premieres, hopefully they'll do a vid soon - thanks for checking out the vid. Yeah the unit has been doing pretty well and a good option if you are building a camper/caravan or adding it to an existing van. Cheers Berko

I dont think its possible to change the passcode. It should be either 1688 or 9009.

Not this exact controller. I have seen some which when you push both arrows together at the same they will change it to F

Also is the elevation thing automatically set? cause mine says 130m, but i live on the water so I know im not that far above sea level. @@berko79

and this one is better than some of my earlier vids for umms. Anyway thanks for counting :)

@@berko79 I was trying to be constructive with my criticism, I’m glad you weren’t offended ! To be honest, I got half way through and was going to stop the video then I decided to start again and do a count. I’ve just bought a heater with no instructions so I was interested in what you had to say. PS, the count may be + or - a couple of “umms” but it was up there !😉👍🏼. Keep up the good work. Regards, Ken.

Cheers for tuning in. Yeah i just made sure i switched the pump on and had the mixer set to hot and let it run until i had water coming out of it. I did this before i switched the water heater on to try and heat water.

@@berko79 awesome, thanks 😊

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Even the old style controllers didnt do that. It so crazy how they program them to work where most people want a timer with an on time and an off time. I think afterburner is an option but it costs as much as the heater. I'd still like to get my hands on one and have a look at what it has to offer.

For sure music doing my head in