Well you’re technically cutting it in half, just on an angle and you have to have the fence away from the blade

@@BitnerBuilt makes sense I suppose

Thanks! Unfortunately no it is one solid plate. I asked and they said this was made for a different use than the f1… but still would have liked to have it. It’s held on by 6 screws, I’m sure some person will figure out a fun work around for it

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It was a teaser “to create buzz” about it until they put out their first full video on it (I’m allowed to publish my full review on it 1 hr later) - originally we we’re just going to be not allowed to post until that announcement but I personally asked can I do a teaser, (my idea was a 1min short just hinting at a few things coming, machine under a cloth) they liked the idea and surprisingly let us say a lot more than I would have thought. And put out the announcement page to go with it. But they want to be the ones to show it off first (understandable)

You can specifically blame me if you like as I’m the one who asked 😂

@@BitnerBuilt if as you say then it is the third case of “something else” which is unintended aspect of promotion. Thanks for replying. Again, not bashing the reviewers here.

Thanks! Hope to be allowed to put my full review out soon, will be reviewing the machine with over 30 tests so you can base your thoughts on the device based on its real capabilities, not opinion 👍

Yes I think that’s one of the things I’m going with!

Thanks!

Thanks!

Thanks! Yea I went and took a look at it in the store, when raised seemed wobbly as well

Thanks, on a torsion box of both sides are glued to prevent any flex and torsion. What I did in this design was make a poly glue torsion box as the base that the machine was in slid in upon onto two layers of MDF, so literally my entire machine can slide out of the enclosure if I need to, but the enclosure itself is perfectly flat to give it the proper base to sit upon

Thanks for clearing that up. Due my age, I may use1/4 thick material to reduce the weight of my torsion box, and just use one 3/4 inch MDF layer to mount my CNC router on.

Oh, that’s good to know. I should actually reach out to them on that one!

Yes of course but there are websites you can upload 3d files to and they will print and ship it to to you. For designing in 3-D use Tinker cad, is an absolutely free program online and it’s pretty simplistic for people to be able to learn through. It’s technically made for kids to learn. Honestly, I’m new to 3-D printers in the past year, but it’s become indispensable in the shop making all sorts of tool holders, dust collection items, Measurement, tools, etc. you can pick up a cheap 3-D printer for around $150 now

Different days mashed together 😜 I was there 3 days but some things made more sense grouped the magic of video editing 👍

Fibers are usually more expensive lasers, they have their pricing posted on the pre-order page

Oh cool thanks for that!

Glad it was helpful!

Because I was not allowed to. They will be showing off the machine first when it’s fully announced but there were lots of questions that were on the machine itself that I was at least able to address for people (I was reading the q’s in the Facebook groups people had)

@@BitnerBuilt thx, looking forward 😊

Quite the long one! Ok great ideas for tests will do. On the glass cracking and probs engraving. Where you are in the world (latitude humidity etc) can effect these things so even these setting you might need to tweak . Look at the page I linked below, there is a great repository of settings for the f1 that was compiled. Great reference. On the marking material, you can play with tempura paint (thin it with water and apply 6 coats) you can use a heat gun to dry it faster. Chalk paint or even black washable marker can work. Every glass is different, it might have some content that will heat faster than would glass without it etc. cracking if most often caused by heat, solutions to that are applying water to the glass, dish soap, a wet paper towel that you lay over it and engrave through. Also incorrect laser focus (height) can attribute to it. docs.google.com/document/d/e/2PACX-1vSdAwKiqysBGhNHt92zkdQx_zM42m2KCEQfV7UF0LxsoHiIhirM3c1BF4LvTu1-PU8_UH-fV176X_t_/pub?fbclid=IwZXh0bgNhZW0CMTEAAR0qAKt7D3A-2u0ul-YwsU6HslMHGE6b852iR8JtMI7OUH3f0AfwhTkW1Tg_aem_AZsMuMPv0HvBA4dKY2zwwcK6e_gNCCGOLZCeRRp9HJWgqIYK9impCILEG62M-SIc3zQfUFfnJYo4sRVH7oaq5Sj7#h.894do2a511qb

@BitnerBuilt thank you so much. This is fantastic, and I will try. With the water, soap, paper towel, etc, I saw a video where someone engraved through ONLY that (didn't work for me). Are you suggesting I lay a soapy paper towel OVER the tempura paint, chalk paint, permanent marker?? Thanks again

Yes, you can look at the laser through the green enclosure without wearing goggles. The only time you need to wear goggles with this machine is if you raise the enclosure up so it is not all the way down the only times you would be doing that would be when using the conveyor system or if you have an item that’s too large for the lid to come down.

I believe 1/16 but I did buy a 1/8 piece for for the transition from the door to the trailer (gets hit a lot by wheeled items) I actually purchased mostly from a local metal supply, was cheaper than HD

It does not it’s one solid piece though it is only held in place by six screws. I wonder if some creative people are going to make their own base

I have a big stack of coins that I will be testing on the full review 👍

It should do coins just fine just gonna take more passes compared to 30 50.100watt

I think you might be underestimating how powerful a 3D printer is especially if your using pla

👍

@@BitnerBuilt love the series btw I’m in the process of building a cleat wall with 50/50 wood and plastic. I already built your hamer holder

I just took a good look at your design if you turn the dovetail 90 degrees and make a couple of smaller ones side by side then you can print it laying flat on its back without using supports and if you make the numbers raised then you can pause the print when it’s about to print the numbers at witch point you can change the fillement so you can print those in a contrasting colour (sorry English isn’t my first language I hope it’s clear enough ) I hope it’s helpful love your stuff

@@KorevaarAnneah good idea 👍

Oh, that’s a big project! Yeah, that was very much my experience. Which prompted the video. It is a good tool for certain applications, but it is definitely not a powerful driver But a lot of the marketing makes it seem that way, which was my main issue

Well I will make sure to do plenty of leather tests for you!

@@BitnerBuilt Would be appreciated. The ability to engrave and cut prototype parts as well as engrave hardware with one machine is actually really interesting. Wasn’t that long ago that metal engraving was completely out of the price range of us one man shops we wanted something that worked with leather too.

Not allowed to answer on that yet, but the bed size is large and I will test it on a 40oz Stanley

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👏👏👏

Hmm good one, I will ask!

😅

Will do 👍

The only technical on that that I know at the moment is it is a Q switched fiber Laser

The floor currently does not come out of this model like a smaller F1, I currently have an email into them inquiring about this

Thanks! Will do! I will test the gambit!

Well you just gave me a great thing to engrave in the video, always felt the same about my stack!

Will do!

Very cool, just watched a video on it 👍

No the base is solid on this one. There must be a reason the didn’t leave it open like the smaller f1, I will find out. Obviously you can’t lift it but being able to set it on a large item would have been good

@@BitnerBuilt Thanks for the reply and I apologize for the duplicate question as I now see you answered it already. I feel like that is a major design flaw as the fixed base removes a ton of functionality. Think about engraving in the middle of any kind of larger tile, metal plates, laptop lids or things that are already assembled that wont fit under the base. Who wouldn't want to put this on an end table and add something that would make a boring piece of furniture a conversation piece. The user is now completely restricted. I put my deposit down thinking it must be a feature since it was available on the older/smaller version but I think now I will likely request a refund.

@@angelocigna8323 may have been for safety.

​​@@ZoraRossouwabsolutely possible. I just can't imagine there is no alternative outside of a fixed base. It's just a major disappointment for me. I had been considering the F1 for months but the limited workspace reduced is usefulness to me to the point I could not warrant the purchase. So I was very excited about the ultra, now not so much. EDIT: I reached out to xtool and got this response. Dear Customer, Thank you for reaching out to us. We understand that the removable baseplate feature is important to you. Rest assured, the xTool Ultra product also comes with a removable baseplate similar to the xTool F1. This feature allows for easy removal of the baseplate, enabling flexibility in engraving various objects. If you have any further questions about the xTool Ultra or need assistance with anything else, feel free to ask.

Thanks! You too!

I will note that for testing for the next video, cant answer that at the moment

@@BitnerBuilt 👍

there are two accessory ports on the side of the machine by the power button and the emergency stop

@@BitnerBuilt Thank you...

sorry I don't know on that one. It wasn't in my box but many of the xTool machines I have received are always multi box. I should be receiving the conveyor before my next video, THAT is what I am super excited for on this machine.

@@BitnerBuilt me too! I wish XTool would say what’s included. Again, thanks for the amazing overview. Great job!

Thanks Jim! yea excited to get playing with it!

Ya it looks pretty cool and could be a lot of fun and make a lot of cool stuff

no the bottom is solid without the removable plate the f1 has.

@@BitnerBuilt Shoot, that's disappointing. Thanks for the info! I'd be curious what you'd recommend for a first laser for a woodworker/tinkerer/engineer. I don't fully grasp the capabilities and limitations of the different types of lasers. Have done some research and know what's good for what on paper, but there seems to be significant overlap and I don't have direct experience. I've got a 3D printer and some beginner level CAD skills and know I like these kinds of CNC type tools. Just kind of struggling to decide what I'd be able to make best use of. Or maybe the answer is to forget lasers and get a CNC. So many options... Xtool has appealed to me though because I got an Anker printer and I feel like it has allowed me to focus more on making and less on fiddling with the machine. Xtool seems to have a similar mindset. I donno if any CNC companies have made that jump in terms of ease of use yet.

I have 3d printers, cnc and lasers, 3d is obviously additive, there is a ton of crossover with the cnc and laser though. I started with a cnc and love it but honestly the laser has become my go to (as the work is applicable) if there is a crossover. Its much faster, clean and has more functionality (cut, burn, engrave) if you looking to get into it I highly recommend the xTool S1 - here's a link shorturl.at/hwxE6 - I own pretty much all of xtools machines and this is the best combination of capability, and price. Let me go back though and give you the basic laser rundown. Diode lasers are more affordable and will be able to complete engraving, burning and cutting to a max depth of 3/4in materials based on a 40w, 20w will do a 1/2in material. they cannot do clear glass, clear acrylic and metals (many metal business cards, metal tumblers etc can be done because its stripping the outer paint off, not actually engraving the metal) C02 lasers are much more powerful when cutting and faster at engraving, they can also do acrylic and glass. (my xtool p2 c02 is prob my favorite machine but its pricey so since your starting I prob don't recommend) then you have fiber / ir lasers that can engrave on metals & plasticts . It your looking to get into this as a hobby or side hustle, unless you specifically working with metal acrylic or glass, then the diode is a good pick as it has a lot of functionality and is the lowest cost (S1) the cool thing with the s1 is you can get the 2w ir module to mark / light engrave metal & plastic so that machine checks a lot of boxes. if you get the riser and conveyer feeder too then you can cut and engrave on really long boards and its very precise. I recently did a full video comparison on the s1 vs the wecreat@@commentsonthetube14

@@BitnerBuilt got it, thanks so much for the detailed reply! I saw your comparison with the S1 and wecreate, but I felt like I'd miss the camera alignment on the P2 once I looked into the rest of their line. I've had some experiences in a local makerspace where the alignment was miscalibrated and I ended up needing to re-work my piece, which drove me a bit crazy. Does the camera make as much a difference as I think it does? I'm not super budget sensitive if it's a good machine. Anyway, I really appreciate the content you're putting out and I'll definitely use your link if I end up buying an xtool!

always less time with the router, not everyone has so I kept it on the general build style everyone could follow

Awesome, thank you!

👍 will be testing

XTool in my opinion, makes the best lasers for the hobbyist or small business, before you’re getting into incredibly expensive high production machines. They’ve tried to make everything and all in one package, focus heavily on safety, material positioning, and precision, and of course, making their own software is A+ as well!