Thank you. But you said you dont use flash but the holga 120N would have wires for flash. But in case i want an external flash, where is the battery slot in the camera, and which flash brand/model you would suggest? Thx

Beautiful work! Love the tree stone wall photograph. But all frames are great. I receive a Mamiya Six tomorrow, so can’t wait to go out!!

Hey Mr Martin! I LOVE your videos! Thank you so much for your absolute wealth of knowledge!!! I’m curious about something on this particular camera (and hoping you see this comment since this video is 3 years old). I’ve noticed another copy of this camera had the ASA dial is set to “S”…I saw another copy where the little ASA window had “64” in it…the copy I have has ASA set to “100”. This may seem like an ignorant question, but do we actually set ASA/ISO rating on the camera? Or just meter using the box speed and let developing sort that out? I’m a little confused! I’ve shot 2 rolls through mine so far, one at box speed 200, one at box speed of 400, and I did meter readings with those respectively to determine my aperture and shutter speed. I’ve not gotten my scans back yet, so I’m unsure how those test rolls did, but now I’m second guessing myself! Any input or help would be greatly appreciated! ❤️

God bless you mate! Your pictures are so inspiring I can't stop watching your videos. I think film is just gorgeous and I can't wait to dive into it myself, coming from the digital world.

I have the same lens but with a 39mm camera adaptor. Im currently looking for a MF camera adaptor.

Hi Martin. Send it over and ill free it up for you.

Thank you. What about digital photography? Do under and overexpose?

Discovered pinhole photography in high school. Had a lot of fun with Kodak B&W paper and a oatmeal box with a pinhole in a piece of a Pepsi can and electrical tape was my shutter. In bright sun exposures ran about 20 seconds. Contact print paper negatives. Always wanted to build a plywood box on a trailer for mural paper negatives about four feet long. Really large format! With an ASA of about 3 exposures were sometimes minutes. An aperture of f 245 made everything as sharp as possible.

Enjoyed that mate. Brilliant.

simply genius,I had no idea!

Please don’t tread on graves!

It might have been interesting to see a comprable digital immage of the same scene in comparison. Nice result!

Thank you for the work involved here to experiment and master calotype

Sorry, it's iridium.

One difference,minor, is that the Contax is plated in vanadium .

thanks again Martin, brilliant

Thanks Martin i have to try Diafine, i normally use Pyrocat HD

HOLGAの高級バージョン

Hi. I'm confused. if you can't see any difference when it's flashed according to your test, why di it? Isn't the point to build a tiny bit of "exposure" into the paper? Thanks.

Greetings from America. Great video. That is the sharpest pin hole shot I have ever seen, especially considering the large size that you printed it to. Just a thought, the smaller the "hole" the sharper the image even if it takes 20 minutes for the exposure. Although I've never done it, what about using one of those ReliOn ultra thin lancets that are used to check blood sugar. they're very thin. (0.32mm) That would translate to about f 200 for your camera. And if it couldn't pernitrate the soda can aluminum, it could certainly penetrate aluminum foil.

I hope by now your Baby Rolleiflex has gotten a CLA and become a "user." Just bought one for little & hope to find a repairer in the U.S.

Great video. Thanks. There is a much easier way of getting to the lens. Unscrew the 2 screws at the bottom of the camera and then slide the whole lens and bellow assembly up and then out from the top. This works for my 1916 version (enamel Autographic s/n ~500,000), and I believe for later versions.

nice

Thank you very much for this very informative video about Diafine developer. I have recently (in the past year) gotten into developing my film with Diafine and I really enjoy not having to worry about correct temperatures and times. A compensating developer is way nicer than the stuff I was using before ( Ilfotec DD-X, which actually never failed me as a developer, as long as I generally adhered to the correct times and temperatures). My first few roles developed with diafine exhibited bromide drag which was quite pronounced. I've since stuck to a new process of soaking in part A for 5 minutes (with very gentle swirling at every 1.5 minute interval). Then processing in part B for 5 minutes ( again with gentle swirling around every 1.5 minutes). I developed a roll of Ultrafine eXtreme 400 film (shot at box speed), and the results turned out very nicely indeed. I did not see any bromide drag this time around. I got plenty of density, and the highlights and shadows were well preserved. One thing I have doubts about is the warnings, (not just from your video but many others youtubers) that say, never to allow even a tiny bit of part A to get into part B. If that were to happen, then it will be ruined. And I very faithfully adhere to the practice of never allowing that to happen. When I'm done with both of the solutions, I pour them back into their bottles, and I have separate funnels for each solution so that there is never any kind of cross-pollution or cross-contamination going on. I do wonder, though, about how strictly it should be followed. I mean, through the course of normal developing of film, once part A is done, a lot of part A soaks into the emulsion, true, but some of part A is also on the reel, and the walls of the tank and some droplets may be in the light baffles. Once part B is poured in, then isn't that causing the cross-contamination that we're so warned not to allow from happening? It's just a question in my mind as someone with a science/engineering background. But for all intents and purposes, I've got a fail-safe method for this and I think I should just follow it to the tee. I want to thank you again for making this video. I have yet to develop a roll of Tri-X with diafine, and hopefully I should get very pleasant results. Best regards.

You are a true artist and a fine photographer 😘! Cheers from France

While process is great for soul.. beautiful work sir ❤️👏

🫡hats off to u ❤️

I have to agree, the comments on your submission are outstanding! Again, your creativity demonstrated here is stunning.

Thank you, Martin, this is by far the most comprehensive explanation of the process. I had been planning to try this too, and I’m so glad I watched this before I get started. Especially the use of a yellow filter and pre-flashing are things I wouldn’t have thought of. Well, using film dev didn’t come to my mind either 😅. I’m just wondering why pre-flashing can’t be a tad longer. All in all you’d get a fogged paper negative but film does have this too, even if we call it base+fog. I assume this would even help to get better highlights.

Well Martin, that is a find! have used the Speedgraphic quite a bit. And in the early 80s I had a Linhof Carden Master "L" system. 4 X 5. I often used Type 55 Poloride Pos Neg. Very handy. Prof plus Neg. I built an 8 X 10 Pinhole. f290. Exposure = many hours. Wonderful results. Scheimflug Principle to calculate the plane of focus. I used it a lot on product shoots. Cheers from Oz.

Outstanding Performance by a MASTER ❤

Brilliant! I did this once many years ago and don't remember much about how I did it. I'm inspired to try it again.

Dear Martin, nice vid and good man :) Nevertheless, I would lilke to remark you could have had it a little bit easier: 1. It does not matter really if the flashing is just so that it will not fog - because with both the copy process or scanning you can set the black point as you wish. Had you chosen one of the first probes which gave a light grey on the paper you would even have had the advantage that you would have lifted the future depths (in the positive) more out of the flat part of the gradation curve, thus improving shadow detail even much more. 2. Then, you could have continued your probes in the other direction instead, towards darker. Then you could have picked the one grey that resembles 18% grey. Then you could have put your exposure meter into the light of the enlarger and measured, then adjusted or calculated for the respective ISO. Then you'd have both in one step: better shadow detail plus approximate ISO (add filter factor arithmetically). And then there is one thing you can see in your paper negs: they don't have the "Lichthofschutzschicht" - what is that in English? - means, strong light, sky or reflections will spread within the paper emulsion and thus be enlarged and soft- contoured. With film, the backside is usually blackened to avoid this effect. This is quite a technical deficiency with paper neg, besides the low ISO. Can be used to make photos look 'historical', though. Regards from the mainland! :)

The beauty of Photoshop and Lightroom lies in the fact that anyone can use them in anyway that works for them. For myself, I do minimal work in both, and my images and print always come as I would like them. Yes, as you said, you can stack loads of layers up, and manipulate each one etc, but for me, and I would hazard a guess 90% of most users outside of design environment, simple adjustments are all that are needed. Nice video. Best wishes, David in the UK.

What a lot of had work Martin! By the way how do you set f11.7?

Great information, well explained. Thank you

Thank you for a wonderful video. It inspired me to get back into my hobby photography again.

you're a great photographer

A great demonstration of patience and skill. Lovely.!

Martin, I have a Mamiya 6, the same model, and I like to know how you attach it to a tripod. The tripod socket is all the way to the right and when I connect a normal plate, the camera feels unbalanced on a tripod. What's your solution?

Whats The Paper Called? U used? And how much they Cost

Very nice images. Surprisingly good for a relatively simple vintage camera.

This is a fascinating story. It's a photography lesson right out of the annals of history, art and science of pinhole photography. Excellent video!

They are a lot of fun - made one with a view camera I had using a polaroid back. There was a guy who made one out of an entire hotel room. He made a blackout curtain with a hole in it, then attached numbered sheets of print paper to the opposite wall. He then reversal processed the print paper to get the image.

Do you still suggest dropping the ISO over a battery adaptor? So 400 ISO to 320?

Now that IS impressive. Well done. It's been close on 60 years since I developed and printed my first film and I still think it's magic. Have you tried using cut sheets from a 120 roll film?

The end result is beautiful. Never used or made such camera. However I am familiar with the technique as I have poor eye sight and can make a makeshift solution using my fingers and form a small hole to see thru (or other objects) to read smaller text to some extent like the labels in shops on products. Call me crazy but it has saved me some trouble now and then. Cheers from Sweden.

What a beautiful and soft image lovely how I miss doing my own developing and printing late 60’s early 70’s still got all my film cameras maybe I should start again , thanks for this video so inspiring regards Fred

Hi Martin Watched until the end and was impressed with the results, the reciprocating Angel you were worried about the Sky, nice, different angle as well and under the tree, the moving leaves gives it an intriguing effect re subject, very good all around! I’ll look in my filters, although that is an unusual size, I’ve had that and used step up rings or even step down on my Phone attachment from 67mm to 58mm and lower depending on effect, but it’s cheaper than buying these magnetic 🧲 and you can get some really different old filters. I’ll let you know re filter! Regards DG

Hi Martin I have been in contact before, but at the Adonal stage i thought id ask, at the beginning you mentioned the yellow filter and allowing 1stop for that, but i didnt hear you make that adjustment in the cemetery, just for clarification, did you allow that or like happens with me sometimes, did old age kick in? Also what size filter is the one your missing on the Big G as i have many filters and it would be nice to see that tape gone, such a beautiful piece of kit. And as always, an excellent video with lots of little interesting exposures of information. Regards DG