Seems like you would have to put an ammeter on the DC side of the power supply to see if you are getting more amps out.

Would this work with my g920? I’m guessing it would because the g920 and g29 have almost identical components.

There is a full motherboard in it that controls the whole system of it including power supply so it will not change a bit BUT if its asking for more power a heavier psu will help it 😊😊

Thank you for this. Just got me a DD Pro and this helped out a lot while setting up my rig.

me playing assetto corsa in VR finally made me go out and buy this setup. to be honest a quest 3 is probably cheaper than a big monitor and mount. and is pretty much night and day in terms of immersion

do you think the csl dd 5nm would work perfectly on this i know there will be some flex but not as much as the full 8 nm?

The motors inside cannot use more amps than they are mede for! so this wont work

is there an update? is your motor still functioning after months of using the higher psu?

Bless you man this guide saved me so much time <3

Heres the problem: There is probably a reason why Logitech limited the amount of torque, as you may end up stripping gears or damaging something else. So if you want your G29/G923 to last better just to limit it to stock power unit.

Hi mate I have the 8nm as well but I use an Omega racing wheel stand, you just have to put in the office chair and you are set. It's super rigid and works very well. However that thing is freaking heavy and super annoying to move around. I was wondering how it is with the playseat challenge, is it light? What about stability, do you have a lot of staking?

Your graphics look great! What are your settings?

Super clear video. Much appreciated.

How to arrange wires

Good video

Will probably use this method for my Moza SRP pedals, everyone really exaggerates how much these things flex under load yours barely flexes at all with a load cell

If there is any Power Protection Circuitry on the Board then it will only allow the right power past that is 1.75 amps @ 24 volt

So i have 2 buttkickers connected, one on the pedals and one on the seat. Is it my understanding you can’t separately control haptics to the fromt from the rear? Its a global control? I really want to send the rpms to the pedals but NOT TO THE SEAT? How do i do that?

I'm about to receive this weekend my Fanatec DD pro 8Nm and I have the same playseat which I used to play with my G29. I'm going to try this at home and see how it works :) thank you bro!

Can you tell me if the power of the Fanatec makes the challenge moves a lot? Is it 5nm or 8nm?

Of course you dont feel any changes! First of all, im an electrical engeneer, so let me explain, you are absolutely wrong if you think that a power supply with more amps could give more power to your wheel motors, only in the case that you have an old power supply with less power than the wheel demands, (sorry for my english i know that sucks), so man, if you wanna give power to the logitech you need to change internal motors and to add a little electronic controller to remap or to escale the old range voltage to the new range, if you dont know anything about electricity please get a little bit more of information, this type of video sucks because it very easy to see that you dont have no idea of this and supose misinformation. Cheers

Great. Do you have those screw in the fanatec bundle? Or you have to but extra?

Awesome review!

Nice review! Good to see that im not the only one driving F1 from cockpit lol Have a question tho What kind of gloves are those 🤔🤔

Hello guys, Excellent video, very explanatory, very easy to understand, I'm going to do the same in my Playseat Challenge with Base Gt dd pro... thank you.

I just measured 42+ watts draw with spikes higher than that just fighting the center spring on my xbox home screen and it kept creeping up as i held it (probably from heating up and inefficiency increasing). I read somewhere that the mosfets are rated to 2Amps which would automatically make the stock 1.75amp power supply under rated and even with a 2amp you have to account for sudden spikes and how much the stock psu voltage sags under sudden spikes etc. im sure that you would benefit from at least a 2.5amp supply. Im also sure this is logitechs way of making the wheel more reliable by under powering it for preventing earlier wear and overheating when inexperienced user turn everything up to 180% and clip the hell out of it. Im pretty sure it will be fine since you are not over volting it but you have to be mind-full of clipping now because it will be able to overheat quicker since you are supplying the full current to those Fets when they demand it. I would like actual measurements on torque from the motor but im pretty sure ill be able to record higher watts using the higher amp supply during heavy use of the ffb.

Great review! Is it loud on the lowest setting ? Because this other people in the house

I maxxed 5 mustangs to get the Ford discount it stops at 25per

I've spent a long time upgrading my 240 nissan it's a massive pain here ,it really makes it a grind to fix the car hopefully the new system works well

Phew, that was a good help, thank you my friend just got my GT DD Pro today and was lost as to how to fit it, contemplated drilling holes 😅

lol I have like 10-15 brand affinity maxed out some say 7/5

I like the new system that is coming out (or at least implied to be coming out) where every single upgrade is unlocked from level 1. And leveling your car just gives you CPs you can spend on those upgrades. This IMO solves the majority of the issues. It still requires you to drive a car and get to know it instead of just buying a car and fully upgrading it because it is the current meta car. It means you won't have to go 2 or 3 races without upgrades or with the wrong upgrades while you wait for the ones you want to unlock but also means you can throw in the mods you NEED without needing to get to level 25 or something. If your car feels good but you just want to tweak the transmission, no problem, 1 race and you should have enough CP to get a sport or race trans and pop it in. Just need more power? 1 race should give you plenty for some engine upgrade to boot HP. If you are trying to bring a car up 2 classes you are going to need to put some time in. Oh, and I have about 20+ cars at level 50. It's really not that bad. I get them leveled to about 15 and tuned where I want then run them in multiplayer to fill out the final levels. I try to only run under-leveled cars so I am always progressing one and it sort of forces me to keep trying new stuff. I don't buy new cars unless I NEED to for some event.

I see fact that tunning is still locked behind top-tier parts as a proof, whole idea of grindlocking parts was created, decided, and rubberstamped on same meeting, There is no way this wasn't noticed and brought up during playtesting.

It take 1 hr and 28 mins to get a car to level 30. If thats too much for you then you are just a lazy impatient idiot. The biggest 2 problems with the game in my opinion are Online Matchmaking and the OP Leaderbitch cars ( Mx5's Cosmo's (because of deals with Mazda) Corolla, P550. Exocet 18. Subaru 13 etc. Car classes are meant to put similar cars together and not have any that are overpowered and underweight. it ends up with endless online lobby's of these cars and makes the rest of the garage pointless. I personally block anyone who drives one of these ( over 500 so far) and am getting to a point where they are less frequent and the races are much better

after leveling 30+ cars, I agree with your car level unlock idea. Its not difficult to get to 20 in the current system, but then theres not enough points to actually do all the upgrades needed to make a car tunable. Some need to drive a car should be there. Tuning takes time, each tweak is its own game and unique to each car. Having to wait for an hour for a change that you already know is more important than a flywheel, is rather difficult to accept after the 20th car. I get that lots of people just want to download a tune and use it right after buying the car, but that does remove the game aspect that keep this game in the arcade/sim category.

Well, you could use 5A and configure the FFB balance to a lower rate. GOing 100% on 5A is crazy, yes.

I dont care about carrpg system, the force feedback is a big turn off. tires feel plastic

Did you use any pre load washer for throttle as well?

I personally don’t get why people hate on the new system, you have to learn the car before you can upgrade it, that makes sense. You get a feel for the car. Good example is the mx5 challenge where you start off with some slow car and by the time you do the 5th race you’ve learnt how to handle it and can have a car on stock tyres and put all the points into power and still overtake racers on race tyres

I have a playseat rig. Just bought the hard kit. Just affraid the stiffness will be too hard and mess my rig. Would it had been better to buy the medium option? I think 3drap changed the product and made an upgrade. Hope it works ok. Thanks!

Cheers for the video man , really useful info !!!! +1 sub from me

Thanks for the guidance man , really useful ✌

For anyone trying to find an adpater since the link is broken: I think depending on when you bought the G29 you get a different stock power supply. He said his is 24v/1A, but mine is 1.75A, and I've seen other people online say stock one is 1.75 too. This debunks many comments stating it can't draw more than 1A. If that's the case why is my stock supply from Logitech rated higher than 1A if they know it can't draw more than 1A? The real question what is the true maximum the motors can draw? and we can't make an assumption. They aren't rated for 1A just because the supply is 1A, you need to leave space at the top to make the hardware last more cycles. You never want to be hanging out at peak power constantly, too much heat. It's a general rule when engineering anything that you build it to handle more than you plan to actually throw at it. The same reason why car motors are detuned from factory, they leave some headroom to make it, and all the other connected components like the transmission and various pumps last longer. You turbo the car, it won't last as long, because now you're hitting that peak potential. This upgrade is basically like turboing the G29. Last example; if you play music on your tiny speakers at max, they will eventually die, if you want it louder you get bigger speakers (more watt potential) and then turn the volume down instead, they'll last way longer and be just as loud, sound cleaner too. 5A could be like the "max volume" of the G29, but we don't really know, only the designers know what the true maximum potential is. What we know is they gave us 1A or 1.75A supply, and we can assume that's not the maximum. We can hope that even at 5A there is at least a little headroom still, otherwise it's definitely going to get damaged overtime just like how speakers break when you constantly run them at max volume..... Anyway, after some digging to confirm, I think the upgrade is 24v/5A = 120 watts The connector is a 5.5 x 2.5mm It will draw dynamically, with a 5A maximum. It might not ever actually draw 5A, but if it does indeed try to, the power will be there (such as when FFB peaks/clips, or when the wheel wants to unwind really fast). With a 1.75, it can't draw more even it was possible, hence the "clipping" sensation you get when you reach the power limit of the supply. Either way you always want a little headroom so what's the hurt? If it only draws 3A max, cool, that means the powersupply won't get very hot (the motors will though, because you'll be hitting their actual max, where as, theoretically, the 1.75A stock supply leaves more headroom for them). TL:DR Will this work? YES. Will it burn out the motors faster? Also YES. If you implement a cooling upgrade alongside this upgrade the motors will probably be fine, just like if you turbo a car you likely also need to upgrade the cooling system. UPDATE: This is exactly what I got a few weeks ago, the plug fits perfectly, it doesn't get hot, and YES it spins faster, especially in Assetto Corsa compared to Automobilista 2 and EA WRC or any other game/sim I've been running. IDK the explanation for that, just how it feels to me. www.amazon.com/Adapter-100V-240V-50-60Hz-Converter-Transformer/dp/B0BJZXFZ2H/ref=sr_1_4?crid=15EB0SU9CLFI2&keywords=24+Volt+5+Amp+Power+Adapter+24V+5A+Power+Supply+Adapter+100-240V&qid=1707661494&sprefix=24+volt+5+amp+power+adapter+24v+5a+power+supply+adapter+100-240v%2Caps%2C282&sr=8-4

This saved my butt and earned a sub. Thank you for posting this! I use a Next Level Racing GTLite Pro myself, and for that one I had to mount the plate as far back as possible (that is, use the top 2 screw holes) as the mounting places for the silver brackets collided with the bar underneath. Still, just seeing how you installed it made it super easy for me to securely install as well :D

Do you still use the Playseat Challenge with the DD on it at this moment in time? If so, I know a great solution for extra stability, as I am using it myself

Is that a playseat evolution? I am looking to buy a csl dd but I am not sure if it fits in that playseat

Great vid on a great channel. I recently came across a company that makes both Playseat Challenge shifter mounts and braces to minimize the up and down wobble. I plan to get both.

Thanks 🎉

Just got a G920 yesterday and removed the rubber thinge lol

Thx buddy, saved my day! Keep the good work up! ❤️🏎️