I love these vids I learn so much keep up the good work guys Mitch from Australia.

Lake, I find your videos extremely informative and thank all involved. One thing that I haven't seen a video on is rind durability in street applications. More specifically, the science behind it. Lots of information is available from different sources showing things like reduced friction, reduced blowby, reduced ring thickness, but how does this relate to engine durability at 50k miles or 100k miles. Everything that I have seen is all around short term engine life. Admittedly under harsh conditions, or race use, short life motors. I still build older style motors, Cleveland's etc, and almost all readily available pistons still come with old style thick rings. Back in the day they were good for somewhere between 100k & 120k miles in most applications around my area. We used to bore them 0.030 simply because the ring ridge normally didn't clean up until 20thou or more. Could you please cast some light on how today's narrower ring packages can be expected to perform over a similar time and mileage? Would we expect more or less cylinder bore wear with the narrower ring package on these old motors with older metallurgy? I know what conclusions that I have reached, but I would appreciate a significantly more knowledgeable opinion. Regards Greg

Nice work guy’s that’s why I sent my Gap-Less ring set back to get Gas-Ported tops!!

Don runs a great Dyno service at Shaver! I used him many years ago!!

Awesome! I am installing gas ported, gapless rings in my current Subaru build. I was going to specify a 50 Rvk for the hone; but I may go deeper to a 70.

Thanks for sharing your experience engine tech really getting a head of steam now great to see.peace

Impressive!

Running the sump under different vacuum levels with various ring packs would be interesting too...

You should tell us your piston to wall clearance before and after

About 22 years ago i bought your gapless 2nd ring set of .030’ over rings for my stock/warmed up 350 build. It always seemed to have very minimal oil mist come through the PCV and the oil looked cleaner than ever even at 3k miles when i changed it. I can’t ever recall having to add oil between oil changes either. I’ll only use gapless rings in future engine builds.

Rabbit hole of tech. Love it

I just installed the gas ported rings in my Harley hopefully it will help with the blow by on these big m8 engines

The last good machine shop that I know of in San Diego closed 10 years ago. Most are Hacks.

Great video gentlemen! Another YTr suggested removing the second ring, and reducing the oil ring tension when running a crankcase vacuum pump to minimize friction & increase HP. What say you-a gapless top ring, delete the second ring, min the oil ring tension and run a vacuum pump or just run a thin ring package? Thank you!

You guys do any stuff with import / 4-bangers? I'm building a few different 4cyls and the race-quality aftermarket sucks. Would be neat to see what you guys would do with a K24 or even a B20, or 22R. Also, it's time to buy some standardized race fuel for doing dynos. It's expensive, but really helps to control the variables, which is key for detecting small gains. And a bunch of small gains are what we are after.

Great video Lake, what would the blow-by measure on a factory engine ?

Great video guys👍 It's my first time watching your channel and the last time I built an engine was the early 90s. I have some questions and if you've already covered them previously I apologise. These have to do with street/strip applications....Will the narrow rings last as long?....Will the side clearance open up quicker?....What piston clearance do you recommend for cast and forged with the hone you're using?....Again...GREAT VIDEO

Great personality’s in the videos with the technology knowledge to cap it off. 👍

I'm here to hone in my piston ring knowledge 😄

recently had my race blocked honed on a rottler 8 series and they honed it with a valley depth of 130 do you think thats to deep? 25 psi 7500 rpm e85 motor all forged internals. im concerned about oil consumption

Thank you,you throw so much information out but never throw the numbers that's mostly what we want to compare to see if it'sworth spend the money

Ever tried a deep course hone combined with a roller burnish to smooth the tops?

Great video and info, guys.. QMP info or link?

It would be nice to compare the difference in the final cylinder finish after break-in from your original finish and, importantly, compare the amount ring wear after the same amount of use.

Would you say your profilometer could allow someone without access to the big dollar automatic hones to achieve these results? Using the right stones with the right pressure to get a straight and round bore with the right Rvk, then plateau to a proper Rpk, achieving a good bearing curve as measured by the profilometer? Then adjust as necessary to obtain the desired parameters? Thanks

I looked at an article recently about people running sprintcars around the California circuit.. Depending on the tracks they run, they have 3 different exhaust / silencer combos to choose form, the noise restrictions are that crazy in some places! I don't know how you guys can do it!

Are the concepts available for regular cars. Can we buy these parts except for the coating process. Thank you guys.

I recently saw a video by one of the "horsepower" shows where they used "engine assembly lube" on the rings. Oh, the horror! My question is, are you using anything special for assembly when using the thinner rings or will "quickseal powder" work?

Lake. I’ve been using driven gp1 with good results. Do you still encourage people to use driven oil in their hotrods? Or is there anything else you would recommend

Lake, I’m into Formula 1 racing, and the tech behind it. I’d love to know what kind of piston, cylinder, ring, hone and clearance package those 2023 v6 turbo engines are using. Those engines can’t even be started without being pre warmed first, so their combination has to be pretty special? Can you share anything about them?

Very interesting video and the first I have seen about 1mm, GAPLESS, Gas Ported rings. For an aluminium block, sleeved, Mopar BB based, HP oriented stroker light weight street engine, Lake would you still suggest using a 1mm, 1mm, 2/16” gas ported, gapless ring package? Bore 4.35”, Stroke 4.250, Rod 7.1”, Deck Height 10.725. The pistons and rings will have to be custom an I am leaning towards 4032 forged pistons. Might it not be best the go 1mm, 1mm, 3/16” to keep it dry (smoke free) on the street? With such explicit honing instructions (RVK 70-75) how many miles might it be before that hone gets polished off and power starts to drop fast? I aim, if possible, for a 50,000 street mile rebuild interval. Thanks again and I look forward to the next “Coating” video.

So would this be better or worse for a vehicle that would tow or is it just better for the life of an engine overall with modern tech have been hearing of a lot of advancements in the last 20 years alone

I'm curious if everything you're explaining in the video would apply in our Karting engine. We are running an animal 206 on alcohol, on dirt and are going to be In the process of refreshing our engine. Does Total Seal offer anything in that line. I noticed a video on Stapleton42 where you and your dad are into the karts yourself. Do you have any videos on that stuff ? It would be interesting to see if there were any major gains in such a little engine.

I've been hearing discussions about whether rings rotate in the bore while running. You mentioned seating of the rings. Wouldn't that preclude rings from rotating? Do rings rotate or not? Thank you.

what happens to the piston to wall clearance when the coating wears?

Would TSPR offer other shops who can hone/bore blocks with the same capabilities and result as QMP Racing towards east coast? Shipping, turnaround time as many shops are backed up into months.

You guys really condense a whole lot of useful info into a short video

Can these gapless rings be used on a stock everyday driver Toyota or Subaru engine? And should you? Just asking because my Subaru burns oil and sisters Toyota does as well.

According to your dyno chart the winter blend made more power and the summer blend produced less. So to compare this run with the prev run you'd have to add 5-8hp to this run to compare it to what you did in the winter with the non-optimized ring conditions. So it looks like made about 20tq/hp more if you compared with the same fuel. Did I miss something?

Can these rings be done on Subaru turbo motor?

But did the piston coating change the friction on the piston walls to improve efficiancy?

I think they forgot to talk about the dry film lubricant coating on the piston skirts reduces friction causing the engine to use let power to move the piston. The less thortle need to hold the the same rpm as before is also partly be a result of the dry flim lubricant. Thinner piston rings, oil, lighter parts less friction .

Are these rings Moly filled or is that long gone , Havent built an engine for 20 years so wondering

Is this hone something that a local machine shop can do? Special equipment?

Do you guys have an explanation of how that blow by gauge works?

Now a days it depends on how much pop corn they put in the fuel..what ya get to run on and much time before ya have to rebuild it again... our fuel sucks...

What are the applications for gapless rings?

I'm just wondering how this effects air cooled engines like those found in motorcycles, corvairs, porches and volkswagons? In the case of the car engines they are quite old and seem like they would benefit from a more modern design.

I would love to see this type of test with a set of DSS Pistons..

How does this ring do with a boosted engine?

The problem I see coming is that most local engine machine shops will be reluctant to provide these specific honing parameters, or ones like these.

Look like you're a decent oil pressure at the start but when you got up the RPMs what happened to the oil pressure down 24 lb not good at what 6,000 RPM?

What does RVK stand for?

What The benefit on honing

Wish we had as much enthusiasm in the Uk to fine tune details that often get over looked :-/

What was the clearance ?

Why not test with Methanol? Wouldn’t it solve your seasonal issues with pump gas?

These two are a show all by themself.

I'm Gonna Start Filling My Engine With Oil From Breakers Now hahahah

I'm surprised you guys aren't using a barrel fuel of some sort to have true A to B testing.

I know you're trying to sell more expensive rings, but when are we gonna see a vertical gas ported piston vs the lateral ported rings. I don't see how air changing directions multiple times with the rings is more effective than for the most part straight down. I'm not being a smart ass and love new ideas and technology but also want to see some apples to apples comparison.

What could "of" been wrong? Did you mean what could have/ could've?🤷‍♂️

You shout alot, but don’t say much. I was expecting more information regarding the honing process and what grit to finish a cylinder at for a specific ring.

Does "Detroit" know about this ??🤔

NA sure no big deal because you aren’t dealing with ridiculous cylinder pressures Like high hp per liter turbo cars. I wouldn’t say 1mm ring isn’t that thin with 840 hp 2.0 turbo 4cylinder running 35+ psi of boost. Then ask it to live for 2 years lol.

Again what the hell were the numbers to compare to. if fuel was a little different he said that was worth it did it go up 8hp.did it go up to 28 what the hell you leaving us hanging

You should script your videos, it sounds VERY off the cuff. Doing things in one take isn't a bad thing, but you should plan it a little better.

wait a minute- my house is on fire again. ok now I can watch another YOUR house is on fire video. MAYBE a more informative video would be to tell us WHAT HAS CHANGED in the last 5? yrs?? But no you would rather stand in front of my house and yell fire. Wait, I need more water- Maybe I can watch the next video?

And they replace those rings after ever race! You bored and honed the cylinders by which is very different than just honing

Bad oglie Chevrolet

Do you guys YELL ALL the time?

Soo.. what's the point of all this? Ford,Gm, honda, all seem to go 100,000 miles today. What more do want? I'm sure the factories don't screw around all day honing and measuring the flycrap on each engine. They'd never make any money or cars! Stop blowing smoke and confusing people. They just want a set of rings that's not going to wear out in 30k. Use an engineered set of rings. 99% of the time the gaps are right for a street engine. Add .006 to .008 per inch for hi-po engines. Back in the day i used 1/16 1/16 1/8 in sb Chevy. Burned oil in 5000 miles. Using 390 Cadillac rings to fix it.( Has 1/16 1/16 3/16) If it worked in a Cadillac it'll work in a Chevy.

its like Kenny Wallace on coke

Why do testing with a terrible engine design like a chev. Bad friction and thurmal probles.