Thanks, Ive actually never heard of gearbox sealer before unless your meaning the sealer used for the casing on assembly, eitherway id just replace the seal if I were you, would save you hassle in the long term. Thanks for watching and commenting👍

@@ALLTHINGSJIM Its a liquid you add to the oil that is supposed to recondition the rubber seal,bit of a cheat and you're probably right about changing the seal,just thought id give it a try first

I've read that this liquid will soften all the seals and might lead to the other seals failing so i am going to just change the seal instead.Whats your opinion on using the old oil vs new oil,my ti vct has 95,000 miles on it ???

The oil is technically "for life" oil so most the time I reuse it because people dont want to pay for the oil, just make sure you catch it in a clean container and youll be good 👌👍

@@ALLTHINGSJIM I've just bought this car and expect to keep it for many years and I've seen 4 litres of mannol fully synthetic GL4 oil on ebay for only £22 so I think I will invest in some fresh stuff for peace of mind and maybe a smoother gear change,thanks

I'm the old days you would rebuilt the cv joint but nowadays they just sell the complete one piece unit.

Yeah wont be any different to the ST 👍

@@ALLTHINGSJIM thank you I was getting confused with all the countershaft bearings and wheel bearing that look like the similar style as that from the outside lol..was also worried I would have to pull a bearing to replace axle and seal but feel much more confident now..thanks!

Hi there, thanks! I cannot remember to be perfectly honest, however around 30nm would be plenty tight enough 👍

Per my Haynes manual for 2012-2014 Focus models: -Automatic transaxle drain plug 43nm. -Manual transaxle drain & fill plug 35nm.

Thanks! I have done them on my back in my garage before, and aslong as you jack it up high enough and obviously use axle stands you can still do it, its more of a pain in the butt and will take you longer but you can still do it.... put it into perspective if on a ramp the difficulty level would be say 2.5/10 on the floor it would be 3/10... its just more annoying if anything 👍

ALL THINGS JIM cheers mate it’s good to get real advise it does help a lot 👍👍

Hi there, thanks, P0380 - Glow Plug/heater Circuit A First things first im about to give this advice without actually seeing the car so bare that in mind... with your milage id recommend replacing the glow plugs first or altleast removing and testing them with a multimeter if your against spending around £12 on new plugs straight away. Also find out where the glow plug module fuse is located and make sure its not blown, there also is a red wire that runs along the top of your glow plugs to a certain point on the engine bay where it joins another wire with a 8 or 10mm nut, just make sure that wire also isnt melted. If for whatever reason its none of the above then id recommend saving yourself some time and just get someone to diagnose it for you. Hope that helps

@@ALLTHINGSJIM Thanks Jim, I will try it. May be you can make a video how right to change Injektor seals also. Thanks! 👍🏻

@@ALLTHINGSJIM Hello Jim! I changed plugs, PC don't show any Failures but the car doesn't starts...

Id say so yes, what do you mean by repair cracks on the oil pan though? If its cracking just get it replaced 👍

@@ALLTHINGSJIM cracked right where mounting bolts are with compressor is. At the very bottom where it's flush with crank case.

A gap in the seal? Im not 100% sure in what you mean but if its the securing C ring on the very end of the driveshaft that goes into the gearbox then yes that is normal

Hi Andy, they are tight but normally a large pry bar will do the trick, are you making sure your levering on the right parts and not off the gearbox casing? Saying that I did one on my mates mondeo last year and it didnt want to come out at all, I ended up having to carefully use a chisel and flathead screwdriver to basically destroy the old one enough to flick it out with the screwdriver.... its the only one ive ever had to do that with though

Before i had that tool i just used to carefully tap it in evenly with a hammer, you could also use a large socket if you have one big enough 👍

Yes oil leak 👍

Get a bent head pry bar and lever it out, sometimes they can be stuborn though, just be careful not to mark the inside of the gearbox casing

​@@ALLTHINGSJIMI have jim it still won't come out

Pretty much except you dont have a bearing carrier on the drive shaft to undo 👍

Its a ford OEM tool but if you wanted to buy one google ROTUNDA 307-572 👍

If you have a 3d printer, I made a free option for this tool - it's on printables "2004-2011 Ford Focus Output Shaft Seal Installer - CV Axle"

1.7 liter oil

The old seal breaks when pulling it out, its all supposed to be one part like when the new one goes in 👍

No this is drivers side. Unless you drive on the wrong side of the road...

Oh sorry I didn’t realize this video was made in Europe

It ok, the otherside is pretty much exactly the same though except you havent got a centre bearing to undo, its a case of removing the lower arm out the hub, removing a 8mm bolt holding the brake flexi hose on the suspension and levering it out the gearbox side then pull the hub out as far as you can and move the driveshaft out the way or wedge it in the wheel arch while you replace the seal 👍

@@ALLTHINGSJIM This is a Great video. When you say driver's side you're meaning right side as you are I'm guessing in the UK? Anyway I need to replace the seal on my daughter's car. I have to try an plan ahead with parts because she is living 4 hours away going to graduate school. It's not leaking bad but I am worried that it has scored the axle. Do you see that often when the seal goes bad? Thanks

I take it the intermediate shaft does not have any circlip as it looks like it just slid right out

Sounds like british accent. ;) He should have used "right side". At least definitions of left and right are still the same in the UK. :D