I plan on that trick with a 300-6…in a boat.

​@@section8motorpool466 no need to mess with the head like that on the 300 and with Aussiespeed making some killer parts for the 300 or the Offenhauser intakes and either the heavy duty exhaust manifold from the '64-74 Ford dump trucks or headers that 300 will come to life quickly. That's the route I'm going with mine, 4V Aussiespeed, heavy duty manifold, Duraspark II distributor to match the truck it's going in, Predator carburetor. Eventually I plan to boost the engine and keep it carbureted. May or May not be able to use the Predator carb with a turbo but I have a Carter AFB and an Edelbrock that could be made to work.

Thanks a lot!

psygnale I used a drill of various small diameters to drill through the corners of the webs and make sure I was going the right way then, cut to the holes I drilled with a sawsawl or cut off wheels.then a punch to knock out some of the chunks once they where cut down to the last side still holding. Then grind and die cut everything clean. Once I had this all done and brazed on the tubes and flanges I planed the head and flanges. I heave more vid and photos loading.

Sweet. Pulled that head a few days ago and prepping it for work (already stripped it down and de-carbonizing, de-rusting it now). Are there any "gotchas" to look out for? Anything you'd do different? I'm figuring it might be a bit tricky to get good separation on those center ports under the carb while still leaving a healthy amount of metal for the header to screw in, the rest looks pretty straight forward. Also have you done any port work yet? Apologies for the questions, just excited...

This modification worked very well, I made an intake for a motor craft 2100 2v and it worked so well I had to drill the jets up tp 3/32” to get enough gas into it! This engine is now in an MGB in front of an M-46 Volvo Stan’s and a 3:90 diff with tiny tires. It does 0-60 in......any gear, Fast! It has a comp cams 260 and it pulls very hard all the way to 6k! Don’t listen to the CFM calculators this 200+.030 wants all the air/fuel it can get!

Hi Alan, good vid mate. I have an Aussie 2V and am interested in the centre exhaust port divider. Are they are knock in mod?

@@section8motorpool466 Sweet. That makes me more confident in my decision to trick out my 6 vs shoehorning in another boring v8. My 200 is already .040. Currently freshening up the bottom end (rings, breaking bore glaze etc)..but for now it's going back as-is (daily driver). Right now I'm amassing the parts list and cobbling funds. Currently on the list... Yella Terra 1.65 ratio full roller rockers Hydraulic Roller lifters 264/264 110 cam Vitor valve seals 1.84 (intake) and 1.50 (exhaust) valves molly pushrods Still figureing out a supplier for dual springs and other ancillaries...this is my first >real< motor build...but I'm pretty sure I have everything down. Since it's a street rig I'm leaning towards 40mm ITBs from a bike running on a Speeduino or MicroSquirt ECU (but I love Webber/Webber-esque carbs so they arent out of the question).

Mick D I’ve never even looked into getting one of those, not sure how available they are. Someone here started to make aluminum heads instead.

Car sounds awesome! I would love to see more videos of it. Maybe a vid explaining what has gone into the motor?

@@section8motorpool466 the aussie 2v head was somewhat rare even in australia, they can still be found but since they are cast iron the shipping cost to the usa is pretty expensive... and the stock aussie intake manifold was made for a bendix carburetor that has a unique bolt pattern so you'll have to make your own adapter for whatever carb or fuel injection you want to run, unless you can locate an aftermarket manifold which is even more rare.

Where!

Ford Mustang 200 cid in an MGB

Go by the desired out come, what you want are these intake runners and the thickness of those can be found by cutting perpendicular to the “runners” down the center of the log from front to back of the head with a metal blade. I have found recently that there are fantastic metal blades (by diablo) for common circular type saws. They are noisy and sparky but a length cut can be made with one of these to get the whole log Spilt down the middle. From here you will be able to see how much metal there is to work with. Once this is discovered you can drill holes through from top to bottom to create a bottom for separation cuts (with a sawzall or cut-off wheel) between intake and exhaust runners. Take your time make small cuts, drill what the cuts don’t reach then break out the chunks with chisel or players.

mark meckstroth The head is from a 1965 and the block is 200ci 7 bearing. You could do this with a large log I think, haven’t seen one in awhile.

Dennis Dalle Nogare Looked into that but it was actually very much more money and very hard to get.

Time yes, money no.

​@@imaouima Lots of extra money. Cam change, block modifications, lifter change. Section 8 saved a Lot of money by not doing a crossflow head. There are no shallow block 200 Cross flows.