December 2017. I was skeptical watching this. I thought, he did nothing to the board. On another video, someone said...I have nothing to lose and everything to gain.....So I tried it. It worked like a charm. I moved ALL connectors in the back, not just the few he did. Anyway, glad to have my ABS and AWD back again. I didnt butcher the back though. I used a dremel to remove the silicon bead along the edge, then gently pry up the backing With some effort, it worked and I hot glued it back after. Hey guys, no need to name call. Just a different approach. Its the fix that im interested in..I will make the choice on what is best approach to remove the cover. Thanks for the tutorial. You saved me TONS of money on this repair.

If anyone has this nowadays, I found a few tricks that will help you out to make it smoother. Get a 5mm Torx wrench head and a small enough driver (I got a somewhat 50mm handle which is perfect for the confined spaces like this, have an extender ready as a brake tube tends to get in the way when dealing with one of the screws). Do not cut the enclosure! Use a heat gun or a blowtorch to soften the seal and carefully cut and scoop it out, it takes time yet you'll end up with an (almost) intact cover. The pins should be soldered probably, yet I had a different issue so just measured the resistance and left them alone. As my issue seems to be a rather common one, here she goes: at times you can get a coolant leak from a hose down there (usually the one coming from the air heater), making the coolant end up on the transmission and evaporating right onto the BCM. There is a vent hole with a moisture-proof insert, yet it will still let he coolant vapors in, shorting the electronics (usually the crystal fails first, as it is the most sensitive to any stray resistance, causing a brief general HS CAN failure and a persistent "BCM NOT CHECKED" state along with the ABS, brakes and MIL lights and a brake failure message. Open the box, rinse with a non-agressive solvent, check the soldering (mine was ok) and the resistance (measure between the leads and the PCB, and, for the common negative connections, between the interconnected pins) - and seal it back (I used a silicone gasket maker that is rated for thick seams).

Thank you so much for this video, I followed your approach and fixed it perfectly, as it failed the M.O.T due to the ABS light not going off, even though the fault was intermittent, which included warnings of "Brakes need servicing" or "ABS requires service" "ABS temporally turned off" "passenger air bag off" no need to solder the pins, so small anyway, and more likely to cause a short due to the tiny soldering points !! unless you are fortunate enough to have 20-20 vision and a very fine soldering iron !! and at the end of the day it cost me absolutely nothing to fix, took me just 1.5 hours in total including taking the ABS off the car , fixing, and replacing the ABS back onto the car :-)

It worked perfectly for my 2005 v70 with BCM 0070 code. Thank you!

Thanks for the video! This cleared all my BCM faults and ABS light went out. I used a knife and heater to open it a bit nicer, and soldered all the contacts.

Thank you so much. I had the BCM0074 issue. It's solved now. Thank you so so so much

Thanks for a video! Looked like sealed unit and not possible to open up after the first look. I did manage to open it gently with some patience and heatgun. Used the fine soldering iron tip and the microscope to repair each pin. Happy days :D

Thanks for sharing,very useful 🤔

Much more effective way of getting the cover off is to use a heat gun to heat the silicone around the edge and run a razor blade around to try to scrape out as much of the silicone as you can before heating it one last time and using a flat head to gently pry the lid off. Harms nothing and once you seal it back up it looks factory again.

I just did this and no more BCM 0070 code, I soldered all the connections too. Had to get my iron really hot but it worked. What I recommend is to use a heat gun and a knife and cut out all the sealer. Work your way around. Once the black sealant is removed, heat up again and cut along with a knife. Then heat a little more a use a pry tool or flat screwdriver and the top will come off alot cleaner.

Did this to my unit, on a Volvo s60 2005. Worked like a sharm and I returned the new one i ordered, thank you!

this fix worked fine for me thanks

+The Curiosity HeadQuarters You could aslo connect that module and show on VIDA or whatever you have that DTCs gone...

Thanks for posting this. Your fix worked perfectly. Bending the pins slightly to regain continuity resolved the issue. I have three suggestions you might find helpful. When cutting into the BCM, cut on the inside (closest to the cemter of the BCM) of the black silicone seal. Be careful to stay as close to the seal as you can. Use bright and direct light. Light where you're cutting so you can see when you cut through the cover. This should help you from cutting the components or the board itself. The pins seem to have a flat side and a rounded side. Bend the pins so the flat side tilts closer to the board. This will help prevent the pins from breaking. Again, thanks for posting this! ! !

Is there a video on how to remove it in the v8? The module and pump are behind the battery and PITA to remove

What year is Newer? I have a 2007 Xc 90 dealer says replace. Thanks.

I think it might be better to open up the module with a hot knife. Take a razor knife with a hot flame from a torch and heat it a little red hot. With a little patience, it could give a cleaner cut that is easier to seal after; just a thought.

What kind of sealer did you use?

Can the solenoid coils be replaced on a Volvo S60R BCM?

what year vehicle is this from?

Maybe it´s better also soldering those connects, if You already open that ABS control unit...

Is there a way to remove just the module from the car? And would I have to bleed the brakes system with this part removed? Thanks.

I have a 2004 volvo s60 2.5T. my problem is ABS light is on, Brake light is on and Odometer does not work. I did the video method of opening the ABS module and bending the poles, but did not fix my problem. I was wonder if any of you had the same problem than me and fix it, also I was thinking of soldering all that pins too, but I am not sure. Any suggestion with be helpful. All the ABS fuses are good and get power.

Do you know is there same ABS module in my S80 2007 (2nd gen) ?

Would this cure "Anti Skid System Service Required" message?

But did it correct problem, and why not just take out the cover where connections are and not take off whole cover when the connections that are exposed are at the end where the first part of cover was removed.

Worked for me apart that the connector rods been straight........

I don't get what's being fixed or done in this video. ..no explanation at all? but looks like you're doing something -thank you

This is like kicking the TV when it doesn't work... it might do the trick, but for how long?

why not x the volume with the styrofoam, what torture.

WTF? From what I could see you didn't "solder" the pins back onto the PCB?

So the real problem is only this ! I must di to my e 36 same modul ate

Horrible ABS module opening... The problem is not press-fit connectors. This connectors are designed to work in high vibration. Common problem in this ABS modules is bad soldering.

Go downstairs.

@The Curiosity HeadQuarters By the way top cover cuting? Are you kidding me? Stuff like that gets open pretty easly without destroing... I had to fix for example Svirl throttle module and after mine ingeraration it looked like new one...None bent and scratch left... All you need is very vey sharp kitchen knife and hammer... Seriously... You put hammer between top and bottom par, punch with hamer a few times and inch by inch it gets open with no problem and damages so you can colse it in factory way by apply some super glue on the edges and that's all. I did like so with mine svirl module and as I said it looked jak a new . No evidence that whenever was open... I spent over 20 minutes to cut through plastic but final effect was worth it....

STOP BLOODY SQUEAKING.... yeah the noise is annoying as hell aint it LOL. i gotta do this to mine what a bloody job i might solder mine or is that been tried and failed again in the long run?

OMG that should be how to NEVER fix, not NEWER lol :D Usko gues you are right... in this case best would be soldering since all hes done just tighten connections I would say temporary :) worst DIY job I have ever seen ;D good effort tho :D thank you! You made my day!

Крышку снять не дано? Нахуя так курочить, там же на герметике все сидит, срезал герметик по периметру и делов-то. Автомобильный садист

Is it made by Russians?

Bad very Bad what you do

кошмар, руки бы тебе оборвать за такое вскрытие, не умеешь, не берись

Рукожоп 87 уровня конечно ... Я бы постеснялся такую работу на ютуб выкладывать.