Thank You Mark, I had trouble releasing the top screw brass plate, but I have only my right arm that works properly, my son in law had to help me, Many thanks again.

Hi Mark, thanks a bunch for the videos. They've been a massive help. Originally I tried getting a plumber out for a dodgy diverter and they gave me the old 'oh your gonna need a new boiler'. As luck would have it you've done a video on it and saved my mum a couple grand. I owe you a beer if your ever in the Highlands 😁

Love your honesty, thank you for your help.

Very helpful...Thanks! Same job as for our BAXI Combi Instant 80 HE. I had to tap the bottom screw with a hammer and socket extension to get it free though.

Hows things Mark. Thank you for a detailed video of the pump. We have a baxi boiler with this pump. The airvent is leaking but we have issues. Radiators throughout the house some are hot some lukewarm. Have tried to balance the system but no joy. We replaced the expansion vessel but that was transferred to the hotpress. Will a new pump eliminate our issues.

Hi , thanks for video , did you have to isolate the water supply before you removed the pump , regards Pat

Thanks Mark very useful video. Is this water pump the same as that referred to as the ' 'Heat Pump' and can you regardless let me know how long it should take to replace the heat pump on a Bosch Worcester combi boiler?

How do you stop water flowing out the pipes? Does it need air bleeding out after pump change

What size are the retaining screws please? Mine sheared off with age, had corroded will have to drill out

Hi Mark, i thought i had replied but can't find it. I have a junkers with bosch pump here in Spain, pump wont move on the spindle, i want to take the head off but cant see how to stop the ch loop water coming out. Each connecting pipe has a C pin on it but i assume thats a quick release....or is it a tap. I wanto try to turn the rotor from the back.Thankyou

"Jobs worth" hahaha nice video. I agree everyone has gone docile must be all this Wi-Fi

What have you been using to get the heat plate screw out hammer the and chisel

Did you drain the boiler first

I isolated the water and heat circuits under the boiler, but when I started taking the motor head off alot of water was busting out so re tightened back on. Why the water? Is that the inner water in the circuit

Your white black next to the wiring is the start capacitor for the pump. It's most likely this is the culprit if the pump won't run. £5 for a new one.

Hi Mark, cheers for posting this vid. May I ask if the the replacement pump solved the issue you had been experiencing? I have a new pump on order, hoping it’ll solve our issues with lack of pressure feeding radiators. Tried balancing the system and then flushing with no success. All upstairs radiators hot, downstairs only get hot if I isolate the upstairs. Fingers crossed

Morning Mark 🇬🇧🍷🍺👍🏼

As easy as wiring a plug

What a load of crap regarding the electrics. If you are multi-skilled and comply with the 1989 Electricity at Work Act using the proscribed equipment you can work on electrics. Before retirement I spent 50 years working on appliances and central heating wiring following the above criteria and before 1989 the advice given in the NICIEC document which forms the basis of the act quoted above. GET YOUR FACTS RIGHT FFS!!!

its not that your not competent of changing the pump or the wiring but your not competent of completing the actual safety checks or know the regs we as qualified gas engineers know and have the analysers to be able to complete said checks that cost upwards of £1k and need need calibrated yearly... you have no clue how the boilers actually performing other than it makes the radiators and hot water hot it must be safe not the correct logic to have . oh and the re renewing of our qualifications every 5 years and the yearly gas safe registration fees. so please stop thinking paying a fully qualified insured time served gas engineer who charges completely reasonable rate is ridiculous as its just not.