That's kind of you to say. Thanks for watching!

They are a first love of mine! Stay tuned to this channel for lots of Foxbody content and tech videos.

The same procedure can be done on a lot of the Fords - Mark VII, SN95 Mustang.

Zip locks seem obvious but I have seen a lot of cars taken apart and every fastener and small part was thrown in one pail. What a nightmare to put it back together if you do that. The load leveller makes it a lot easier for one guy to handle alone.

The actual engine pull is usually anticlimactic, but it’s fun to watch!

That’s from hard won experience! 😄

I’m glad it helped. Thanks for watching.

Thanks. It was shot with an iPhone 12 Pro Max and a DJI Osmo 4 Gimbal, then post processed with Topaz Video Enhance AI. I’ve shot with lots of different cameras over the years but this cell phone/gimbal rig does a surprisingly good job and is convenient and portable. I use a rode wireless go for the live audio. It adds effort to these jobs to shoot and edit them so I do appreciate the positive feedback - makes it feel worthwhile.

@@tecmotiondyno you’re welcome and thanks for responding so quickly. I have another question, do you think you could make a video about the portable lift you are using, maybe talk about the pros and cons about it? I am thinking of getting this lift for more vehicles (all under 6,000lb)

@@jesseaviman It might be a good idea. It’s a long story how I ended up with that little lift but it has been surprisingly useful in the shop and a great supplement to my commercial grade 4 post.

You can attach it the same way I did here. If you don't want to pull the upper intake and you still have the factory lift points, you can use those, but the engine will twist as you adjust the load leveler. An example of installing an engine/transmission assembly with the factory lift points is here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/j56naLqgttmxaJc.htmlsi=-VmhOvYcDsHPPwq5

@@tecmotiondyno Okay. She is stocked from the factory, so I will use the factory lift points. Are those stock headers on your engine? If so, I should be able to deinstall and install my engine like you did, right? Maybe a little easier since only the bell housing will be attached?

@@Mustang8846 yeah, I think both these videos depict stock header cars. You won’t have to remove the stock headers to get it in or out, but if you switch to aftermarket headers you will start to get into special procedures around the headers.

@@tecmotiondyno This is great news! She is stocked and will remain stocked. I will only make mods that are absolutely necessary. So far that is the R12 to R134a conversion and the Alternator upgrade.

Good to know. This one was getting a new Flowmaster exhaust so cutting wasn’t the end of the world.

Generally speaking you cannot pull an engine with long tube headers still bolted up. In a lot of cases you can get away with just removing one header, but there are a lot of variables and you should start from the position that you will need to remove them both to pull the engine. Quite often the right way to do it is to lift the engine partially to gain better access to the header bolts and better clearance, then unbolt and remove the headers, then finish pulling the engine and transmission.

You are supposed to evacuate the system before opening it up, then you have to recharge it. If you still have an R12 system that works, this poses all kinds of problems. When faced with this problem and wanting to keep the AC I gently set the pump off to the side. I think this video shows it - the hoses are flexible enough to put it in the passenger rear corner of the engine compartment. I zip tie the compressor to the hood hinge, and it stays in place. I am actually in final assembly on this project now and the compressor and lines were out of the way enough to take the engine and transmission out, then put it back in with a bunch of upgrades, and get long tube headers on there too!

Wanted to give an update…finally got everything squared away, and pulled the engine and tranny ( by myself even) without any issues. Once I got it all setup (which took the longest), the removal process went rather smooth! Thanks to your video, I gained enough confidence to try my first pull. Slowly going through it to see what’s been done by prior owners. I discovered that this engine has had some work, and is really a 306 dressed stock! I didn’t have the ability to use a lift for the car, but used jack stands under the rear axles to support the weight when it came time to pull. I’m pleased to say the body of the car didn’t flinch while everything was coming out. Now comes the fun part of cleaning up the chassis, and tweaking a few things before reinstall. Great video! Thanks again!

Been a while, but we're finally ready for reinstall! Thanks again for your great video!

When possible I try to take time to help viewers on the phone, but I do ask that guys not monopolize my time. Go ahead and try me on the shop phone and I’ll see if I can be of any help.

That should work fine. You still need to have the car up off the ground to provide clearance for the transmission but that part is easier to do with jackstands if the crane legs don’t have to go under the car.

thanks for the fast reply. I have the engine hoist too as well as a forklift but thought the crane would give a lot of versatility

If I had my guess, I’d say a gantry crane was superior if you have it and the room.

@@tecmotiondyno Thanks so much

Yes. I think there is a point where I slide under the car in the middle in the video, and that is what I am doing. I have the nuts off before I start, then when I have the engine safely off the front mounts and/or the weight on the crane, I pull the transmission cross member. The reason to have the car in the air like this is to provide some clearance for the transmission to swing down and out.

@tecmotiondyno thanks man. I'm in the process of pulling mine.

For sure. I have done them in a home garage. With no lift I usually use jackstands under all four corners because the key is to get a little ground clearance to pull the assembly out. The problem with jackstands at the front is that you usually have to set your lift legs a notch shorter to clear the stands, and you can't set it to lift as high that way. Not everyone has a lift though, so the same methods apply to a jackstand or ramps job. One thing about doing it on jackstands is that the car isn't going to end up unbalanced and fall off the lift!

The motor got a heads/cam/intake upgrade. The customer has all the stock parts. I have some of the stock parts you might want too - can for sure, and probably injectors. You can call me at the shop, or message me through the Tecmotion Facebook or Instagram pages and I will try to help you out.

@@tecmotiondyno Sounds great. I am very interested in the cam and injectors. Please send me your shop number. Will try to reach out to you on Monday. Thanks for responding!

@MrPrFcT someone had asked for a profile on the hoist a while back, so I did a whole video on it: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/bdCArLR-prnYZWw.html

@@tecmotiondyno that video talks about the 2 post lift. I am referring to the engine hoist. Cherry picker.

Sorry, it’s a Princess Auto “Power Fist” special. This type of engine hoist is widely available at places like Harbor Freight in the US. Mine is quite old but essentially the same model is still being sold, including at Princess Auto here in Canada.

Completely true. You do have to disconnect the shocks and when you do that you need to be careful with the rear springs and the body to housing brake line. Or, when you are throwing it away you can just cut the tailpipes because every aftermarket exhaust has separate tailpipes that go in with the entire rear suspension assembled.