Json G- I appreciate it man. Hopefully get to meet up some time and check out your car.

Andrew Lavender we can do that

Easy Come Easy Go they are pretty cool but a few do hate my car lol

Average Brothers Review stayed a night in Midland on the way to Yuma a few years ago. About 16 hours from me

Andrew Lavender If you ever pass through again hit me up. We have the penwell tracks here. Would be awesome to see your 2V run there.

Research, research, research.

Seth Wright yeah learned everything myself and most of what I learned was from tearing stuff up lol.

LynnTwinCustom$ 😢

I tried to get them but they were already stacked on a pile of cars to crush and they didn’t want to mess with it. A lot of places scrap another mans treasures oh well!

also ditch that FMS bearing get a 6003rs. It allows for more play.

albert glenn to expensive for me lol

Joseph Ware thanks brother

@@andrewlavender08 I'm super excited!! Couldnt be happier for you tho bro

Joseph Ware I really appreciate it. I have been on struggle street the last 8 months

ModMotorMayhem did that in my first teksid build then just tried the normal thrust in the last build and worked fine. Converter charge pressure is definitely the deal breaker for the thrust on these engines. The pump in my trans has a restrictior to lower charge pressure.

I think he's gonna be a little quicker with this new setup....Close to 7s if not in the high 7s....

Basshead19 I don’t know who you are talking to a “ford performance” but they are wrong. The thrust washer goes on the back side of the #5 journal since that side sees the most thrust.

Boosted04GT felpro

Yeah they are safe to re use as long as they are not stretched

Andrew Lavender ok, thanks! You think I need to rebalance? If I’m just changing to a new piston? Same brand and weight from what Greg at mmr said

If they are the same weight then no need to re balance.

This the 2v would get slaughtered

Mohd LX bore opening on the gasket is 3.63

@@andrewlavender08 www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-26222pt/ Am I read that correctly ?

Mohd LX idk why it’s labeled like that but it measures 3.63”

Look back in his older videos and he will answer your questions bro

Rafael Sandoval not sure. I think it’s from either a cobra or Mach 1

brucehawk09 oil burning off. You always have oil on the exhaust and other hot parts. Even if you hand are always clean, you still have oils in your skin so oil burn off is always gonna happen

brucehawk09 all the oil from handling the headers with dirty hands is burning off

I measure everything in standard. I would consider tolerances of .0001 to be pretty accurate.

@@andrewlavender08 For you as the assemblyman I wouldn't argue with that, my point is that mod motors are measured from the factory in mm. By the same proportion .0001in = 0.000004 (not a numerical equation but a level of precision comparing the two systems) and that's rounding up. It would surprise me if the prior machine shop or any for that matter went that accurate. Summit racing had a calculator on their page for static compression ratio. I used the 4.6 (non PI) as an example to see how accurate it was. Using all of the correct specifications from a Haynes manual in std, I plugged them in and got basically the wrong number. I switched the calculator over to metric and found another page that had all of the same info in mm. After running it through voila, a perfect 9.3:1. Big surprise, if you took the Haynes STD numbers and manually converted them to metric, they weren't as accurate as the actual factory specs. Same thing with displacement. The 4.6 is exactly 4600.(82 iirc) cc or 4.6L. I have gone out as far as 6 significant figures and never was able to get this number in Std. The 90.2mm bore and 90mm stroke and only those will give you that on a displacement calculation.

Ford Forever depends on what you want done and need to be local to me

Griffon 327 have you personally seen a WAP block fail? I’ll wait. Ring gaps where checked as well, just because it isn’t in a 30 minute video doesn’t mean it wasn’t checked.....

@@andrewlavender08 Your going to run the WAP block regardless of anyone saying nay and will be in denial up to the moment it fails and possibly blame the failure on everything and anything other then the block choice. I imagine when they first came out people were trying to do the same things they did with the teskid blocks and found out the hard way they simply are not as well made. awaiting your hindsight video were you look back and remember someone said maybe an iron block was a better option. also as side note had 3 mark 7 engine for less then $900 and still have 2 of them

Griffon 327 like I said show me an actual wap block failure. I know several people pushing wap blocks over 1000hp with no issues. Unlike you I base my facts off real world experience and not something I read on the internet.

@@andrewlavender08 simply waiting for your experience with the wap block I have nothing invested other then the fact that I can simply say you were given the info and chose to go with the weakest block available from ford . waiting for the video of it holding together under full power. dont run it at less then its full potential to prove me wrong as your building it to race and not to go slower then before after all. you could have got an iron block for free

and just for clarification there is nothing wrong with a wap block for hp levels 700 and under its simply that you plan to go far north of those levels