Yep you nailed it lack of oiling/ contaminated oil will most definitely cause scaring.

Time to find a better machine shop! I would hold them accountable for the damage. I hope your crank is savable.

Don't know whether to give it a thumbs-up or a thumbs-down. I'm so sorry man. I know you work hard on that thing.

Coolant is definitely pushing passed that sleeve. Lord have mercy

I'm a die hard LS guy, but respect everyone that races as well as enjoy watching what the "other side" does. I hate to see this happen to anyone good luck in the future and sorry you have to deal with this.

The block probably created some harmonics when it got to the different metals from aluminum to the sleeve since all the roughness seems to be close to the sleeves

Time to put the machine shop that did this out in the open. Save some people from having the same problem.

Machining debris... shavings that remained in the ports - post assembly.

I had a horrible experience dealing with a machine shop here in Memphis as well and I'm still dealing with it

Hey Andrew, i really hate you going thru this with your new build. But hang in there buddy. You will bounce back better than ever bruh.

I hate to say I called it. Machine shop got carried away sleeving this block. The surface for the heads is NOT EVER OK. PERIOD. I would be completely furious if I were you Andrew. I think this last machine shop owes you an engine dude. The sleeves should not be loose and the sealing surface is about as smooth as I can do on a belt sander with moderate grit belts. Best of luck my dude. This is a tough one for sure. I really hope you're able to resolve this as best as possible.

Make sure your rings are gaped a few extra thousandths, but loss of lubrication from water. The "galling" on the crank can be polished off, no problem. Aluminum and the steel liner expand and contract at different rates, the steel liner may have stretched out the bore enough to allow water to be drawn in, being bored out so thin, it's highly possible.

Wow man. Just wow. My heart sank when you I started seeing damage. You have been through the ringer on this sucker. This video documentation is good should you want to use it in court.

U can tell that that rough spot on the deck surface is a low spot where the cutter wasn't leaving a smooth finish like the rest of the deck surface

Holy crap! Im still watching. I worked at my local machine shop here in Elizabethton, TN. and we would NEVER let that go out the door let alone a boosted engine. No reason that should have been sent home with you.

When you're at these power levels I also recommend debur and polish your block. Helps structure and prevent oil clinging also cost you almost nothing to do.

by the way thanks for all the info you are sharing on your 4.6l. Have a crown vic street/strip project I'm about to undertake and wanting to run the 4.6l so what you are sharing is definitely inspiring some ideas.And ummm yeah...the machine shop that did the work on that block...they suck!

That sucks man.Too much time and money invested for that BS to happen. Hope you can save most of it and get it running again quickly.

The machine shop is to blame for not honing the deck. They should’ve honed the deck to a fine polish. Then cross hatched the deck for a better bite on the gasket. Damn bro. The ford modular engine is a great platform.

I have had multiple heads come back like yeah and to this day I have never seen a head gasket leak with regulars head bolts. Even with multilayer leaves with toque to yield bolts, expansion should be minimal and seeing the lines on the head gasket means the head gasket conformed to the block. Although that sleeve is definitely leaking

The grooves look to be made by the rings butting. That sucks man hope you get it back up soon. She was moving pretty good!!!

Damn brotha that sucks bad. I get my block back this week. After watching this video I’m gonna go over it like a crackhead looking for crack in the carpet.

Only way you could even go after the machine shop would be to have one or two other shops look at it and do a report that you can take to court proving negligence

Brutal to watch, I feel so much for you Andy. This is the worst case scenario really. I certainly hope there is some sort of legal action you can take against these shops. This is totally ridicules.

Heat expands

I'm about to cry... All that work, time and money you guys put in this build... It's just not fair...

I had a similar experience with my 1990 5.0 LX with a transmission buld on a AOD. I had it blow out and when i dropped the pan found a plug from the valve body and a check ball setting in the pan along with silicone and aluminum from the mangled case. After removing the valve body and checking the surface i found that it looked like a rough file had been dragged all over it. It was so scored that their was no way that it could seal. I paid 2500 for a two stage transmission and got a junk heap. I spent another grand and solved my problem with a Tremek 5 speed

I saw a crack in the block on the 5 or 8 wall.

I got to start my own shop because these kinds of shops make professionals look bad.

I got burned exactly like this on a rebuild of a hemi 5.7 truck engine with the same type of gasket failure. Machine shop absolutely fukd me bad on the job during to the poor machine work, I was so pissed and my boss was like I'm never giving them anymore business!

ring gaps align with the scarring? and what a shame man that's a beast of a car . it sure looked like the ring alignment on the sides of the one cylinder when you were looking at the gasket.

holy crap!!! heck I think I could surface a block better in my garage!! thats BS... right back to the machine shop that needs to go and hopefully they can clean it up without having to deck it too much

That sucks. I'm interested to see what a reputable machine shop says about that machine work.

Wow dude! No words

Your the spitting image of my brother but country american. My brother is Spaniard(venezuelan)

as for the piston damage..... wouldnt offset piston pin fix that issue? i know this video is old, but still goood to watch and learn.

Damn! That sucks!!!

All is not lost. Water jacketed race blocks are unicorns. Go all in leave the balls swinging. All you gotta do is fill it, and plum the heads, and get pistons. Get to it, it ain't over yet. Thanks for sharing.

Damn that sucks! I guess the part I want to know is if that surface is so rough, why didn't you realize that BEFORE building all of this? Because that's something I definitely would've checked before putting ANYTHING back together

Always appreciate your videos. I learn something new every time. I'm afraid to hear the heart to heart, but will be waiting for the news.

514bbf my friend built had wrong RA finish on heads..man it leaked externally big time from the get.that loose sleeve is where all the coolant came in.Dont give up on your hot rod!!

There is sleeves that fit loose on some diesel engines not sure if they have those types for gasoline engines.

Man I’m sorry to see you going through this. Especially after you working so hard on this project. Good luck bro .

That sucks. They need to fix their fuck up. And replace the damaged parts.

Human error and negligence. Machine shop with 40+ years experience installed my buddies pistons wrong. Luckily he took pics and caught it. Sorry for your loss. Good luck on this one. Beautiful car and I’m excited to see the outcome.

You didn't notice anything wrong with the block BECAUSE U TRUSTED THE DAMN MACHINE SHOP

Omg , this is the worst experience anyone could possibly have. Hard to believe it is so hard to find a good machine shop. I feel for ya.

Andrew, I have 20 yrs experience building engines and my dad has 50+ yrs experience. The sleeve should be a press fit! NO GAP OF ANY KIND! It should have a tight seal at the bottom. The spec on the press fit is 0.0015-0.002 and that's specifically for sealing the coolant out of the crankcase. The block should be machined 0.0015-0.002 smaller than the O.D. of the sleeve. The RA on the block was horrible! I'm shocked at how bad it is. I've never seen one like that until I watched this. That was the new guy or idgaf guy machining that block. It's court time bc those are the specific reason this engine's gaskets failed and it milkshaked itself. I'm sorry to see the total damage done.

Sorry this happen to you. That shop would be buying me a new block and a complete rotating assembly

Head up man, take your time. Be great to see you get it done right and the videos leading up to it

Sorry to see all the bad luck you been having, hope things get brighter before the end of the season. Hopefully that shop will do the right thing!

Save us all and let us know who the machine shop is ..💪

Second time watching this. Gave a thumbs up, but have to wonder at this point.... Somebody refresh me about what is so much better about an aluminum motor. Bunch of extra problems with machining aluminum. Cast Iron modular blocks can contain 1,000 horsepower. Wouldn't you be better off with that forgotten iron block in the corner?

Your first start and run I could hear the bearings screaming for oil. Prime the oil system, You know better. That means even if you have to prime the oil system (engine) from where the oil pressure sending unit screws into the block.

Call Darton.

Coolant would wash oil off cylinder walls. You put a lot of money and time into that motor

Man that’s tough to watch.

My 2003 5.4 2v has a rough sealing surface, Ford told me it's not supposed to be smooth. I have MLS gaskets also. Maybe that's why my passenger side gasket keeps failing😂

Looks like out of round sleeves to leave them marks

Lawyer up!

WOW!!! Man, there is no justice for you to be enjoying this New Engine Build... You should of came up to Louisville,KY and seen my people.. Hopefully you'll get it right and get it enjoy the rest of the racing season. #TOTALBULLFORANDREW#RACINGA2V

Good you found the problem. Better to know than not. Now it's time to move on, get another block and do it again correctly. Never give up, never surrender !!

I’d slap the heads and intake back on along with the water pump and then pressurize the cooling system with the crank/pan off. That way you could see exactly where the water is going.

Block wasn’t machined square and is allowing clearance. Should be an interference fit

You should switch over to an iron block, hate to say it but it’s true. It will put up with boost much better

Lets get this video to a million views to help fund the new build! I got bent over by a machine shop doing my build on a 2000 gt. There excuse was were not use to these modular engines. Took a full 367 days to get a block bored and forged internals installed. I still have nightmares about that dam place. This was when I lived just north of Chicago. Maybe they moved down here?!? Best of luck. I'm over in Bulls Gap TN so let ne know if theres anything I can do to help.

Stay positive meditate on it everything's going to work out. My man

All fine and well but , where did the oil pressure go ?

Did you prime the oil system before the first start up? I didn't see any assembly lube being used on the build a few videos ago.

Get a iron block it will handle the boost better

Piston speed is to fast I my first thought. Longer rod with higher pin location on piston. Slow the piston down while leaving rpm high if you are trying to build boost.

Wow, sorry they did you like that. I've never seen a mod motor with a finish like that. I've never sleeved a block but my understanding is it's supposed to be a tight fit. Like they heat the block and cool the sleeve , then press it in and no gaps. (Small engine repair) assume the same process. Hope you get it all sorted out, and run one hell of a pass.

What a steel head gasket what did you now spray copper coat on them before install them????

Being a mustang owner myself with 4.62v. I love watching the power you are able to make out of a 2v. Sorry you are having issues with this motor. Keep us updated on the outcome with this machine shop.

I had a local machine shop (Kingsport Tn) do machine work for me several years ago on a 302 block. The thing ran for about 5 minutes and lost all oil pressure. After pulling the engine the clearances were all off on the mains. I took the blame for not pulling them and checking them and assuming they were all good when I got the longblock back. Live and learn.

If you need a free crew hand I’m a new technician always looking to learn and give an extra hand Where I can in the automotive industry, just commenting this cause I’m located in Clarksville TN and saw you work and race on your car in the area

Take a break from it. Get some rest and relax. Car will always be there for you to work on. It's so easy to get caught up in the moment. I feel your pain. I've been in this exact same situation several times with a 2v and 4v.

Gotta b upsetting... all that money and time... to start over again

Looks like it hydrolocked... in the crankcase and spread the bottom of the pistons... man that has to sux

Hey Andrew and anyone else out there? I’m rebuilding a 98 cobra motor with 2v PI heads and aftermarket intake. Stock crank with pistons and rods. I haven’t measured ptv clearance yet but forums I’ve read said that with stock pistons and rods and those 2v PI heads I’d run into clearance issues. Anything y’all would consider doing to increase that clearance other than flycutting or getting different pistons (already stupidly had the rotating assembly balanced)? Like thicker head gaskets or something?? Thanks.

They messed up the whole block. I would not even use that block any more.

I’m so sorry this happened. Being a machinist I’m agree with what every one else is saying. No way that block should have been giving back yet . I hope they stand behind there mistake and make it right !

how do you like those heads ,i got the 38cc set with the tfs 276/276 cams

You should have it O ringed! I know on the Honda motors when we send the motors to Golden eagle to be sleeved they also o ring them to help under high boost. But your problem was the machine work no question. Why did you not choose a iron block?

I know it’s easy for someone else to just say to have something done at a certain shop when it’s not their money, that being said, if you intend to move forward, have you looked into sending a block to Darton to have them install their sleeve kit? I know it’s not cheap by any means, but it looks like your trickflow heads will work with the M.I.D. sleeves. Maybe I’m wrong. Just trying to help find a way to get a job done right. And the guys at Darton would be the ones to get it right.

It is in My opinion that it is way easier to take the weight penalty of a iron block, than it is to deal with all that headache. Just my 2 cent's sorry man.

Man i have 2v too,i know little about machine shop practices i would have totally trustd ther judgment too.especially the exitement of gettin the motor together.

Or RGR engines

That poor damn motor never stood a chance. Can't believe they let it roll out of the shop like that. I hope you aren't kicking your self about this, it's not your fault buddy. You trusted them to do a good job and they didn't. Keep going buddy and build it again, hope everything works out for you.

I'm thinking that machine shop owes man big time

They have to pay for that

Whad they mill that block with a lawn mower?

Did the original machine shop deck the block or was it Shacklett? I'd be surprised if it was Shacklett, but stranger things have happened.

Dam that sucks man. I'll let you get my rods and pistons ls1 back up bullet for a good deal

That's pretty much what I expected as far as the coolant issue, looks like they threw that together to get you off their back and will rely on that old ''there is no warranty on a racing engine line''! They should go back to machining lawn mower engines if they are going to do work like that!

How are ya measuring the RA if ya dont mind me asking ?

looks like they tried cutting the surface too fast

Man. What a bummer.

you should have cleaned and knocked down all the sharp edges on a newly machined block

.004 according to Ford